Front discs stuck!!
alblogg
06-16-2006, 04:28 PM
Trying to change front discs on Expedition and they are stuck on tight, guy working on it says they are rusted. Are they another nut hiding in there some where?:banghead:
carlos80
06-16-2006, 08:54 PM
Trying to change front discs on Expedition and they are stuck on tight, guy working on it says they are rusted. Are they another nut hiding in there some where?:banghead:
hit them with a hammer right between the studs
hit them with a hammer right between the studs
alblogg
06-16-2006, 11:30 PM
Thanks sorry I was so long getting back to you but since the rotor was going to have to be replaced any way (gone to far to be turned) we finally heated the rotor while another person hit on it with a big hammer and it came off.Thanks again your way will be better if you are turning the rotor I guess no need for all the heat if you don't need it.:screwy:
wafrederick
06-17-2006, 10:29 AM
That is a common problem,the rotors are rusted on.I have seen this a lot on expeditions and f150s to the point the rotor has to cut in half without hurting the wheel bearing and new rotors installed.
darmahsd
06-18-2006, 01:21 AM
Hi,
New on the list, so my first post. I had looked on this forum for a solution awhile ago. Nothing that I haven't tried to that point. Now folks are asking so I signed up to let you know how I finally did it.
I found the best way to remove rotors without ruining them. 'Couldn't even get this advice from the few dealers I asked. On my first brake job, they came off in pieces, after PB Blast, heat, sledge hammer and what I think is too much shock to the front drive train.
Well, after 150,000 miles and my third set of rotors, this should be textbook procedure:
Let soak with PB Blast. Heat and take your mallet and give love taps around the flange of the rotor just outside of the studs while turning it. If this is the first time they are coming off, repeat process. Take a pitch rod, a long iron pry bar you can get in the lawn and garden tool section of Lowes or Home Depot. Put the flat, wedged end between the back of the rotor and the carrier. Now, strike the other end of the bar like you were removing ball joints with a pickle bar. A little prying may also help. I was amazed how they popped off in one piece!
Now take the new rotors, clean and mask the braking area and spray the inside of the flange area with anti sieze as evenly as you can and not too thick because you want your wheel assembly to run true when you tighten and squeeze it down later. This will help the rotors come off much easier the next time.
A common problem, I don't understand why the factory couldn't design them to come off easier.
'Hope this helps.
Stephen
New on the list, so my first post. I had looked on this forum for a solution awhile ago. Nothing that I haven't tried to that point. Now folks are asking so I signed up to let you know how I finally did it.
I found the best way to remove rotors without ruining them. 'Couldn't even get this advice from the few dealers I asked. On my first brake job, they came off in pieces, after PB Blast, heat, sledge hammer and what I think is too much shock to the front drive train.
Well, after 150,000 miles and my third set of rotors, this should be textbook procedure:
Let soak with PB Blast. Heat and take your mallet and give love taps around the flange of the rotor just outside of the studs while turning it. If this is the first time they are coming off, repeat process. Take a pitch rod, a long iron pry bar you can get in the lawn and garden tool section of Lowes or Home Depot. Put the flat, wedged end between the back of the rotor and the carrier. Now, strike the other end of the bar like you were removing ball joints with a pickle bar. A little prying may also help. I was amazed how they popped off in one piece!
Now take the new rotors, clean and mask the braking area and spray the inside of the flange area with anti sieze as evenly as you can and not too thick because you want your wheel assembly to run true when you tighten and squeeze it down later. This will help the rotors come off much easier the next time.
A common problem, I don't understand why the factory couldn't design them to come off easier.
'Hope this helps.
Stephen
darmahsd
06-18-2006, 01:28 AM
Hi,
New on the list, so my first post. I had looked on this forum for a solution awhile ago. Nothing that I haven't tried to that point. Now folks are asking so I signed up to let you know how I finally did it.
I found the best way to remove rotors without ruining them. 'Couldn't even get this advice from the few dealers I asked. On my first brake job, they came off in pieces, after PB Blast, heat, sledge hammer and what I think is too much shock to the front drive train.
Well, after 150,000 miles and my third set of rotors, this should be textbook procedure:
Let soak with PB Blast. Heat and take your mallet and give love taps around the flange of the rotor just outside of the studs while turning it. If this is the first time they are coming off, repeat process. Take a pitch rod, a long iron pry bar you can get in the lawn and garden tool section of Lowes or Home Depot. Put the flat, wedged end between the back of the rotor and the carrier. Now, strike the other end of the bar like you were removing ball joints with a pickle bar. A little prying may also help. I was amazed how they popped off in one piece!
Now take the new rotors, clean and mask the braking area and spray the inside of the flange area with anti sieze as evenly as you can and not too thick because you want your wheel assembly to run true when you tighten and squeeze it down later. This will help the rotors come off much easier the next time.
A common problem, I don't understand why the factory couldn't design them to come off easier.
'Hope this helps.
Stephen
New on the list, so my first post. I had looked on this forum for a solution awhile ago. Nothing that I haven't tried to that point. Now folks are asking so I signed up to let you know how I finally did it.
I found the best way to remove rotors without ruining them. 'Couldn't even get this advice from the few dealers I asked. On my first brake job, they came off in pieces, after PB Blast, heat, sledge hammer and what I think is too much shock to the front drive train.
Well, after 150,000 miles and my third set of rotors, this should be textbook procedure:
Let soak with PB Blast. Heat and take your mallet and give love taps around the flange of the rotor just outside of the studs while turning it. If this is the first time they are coming off, repeat process. Take a pitch rod, a long iron pry bar you can get in the lawn and garden tool section of Lowes or Home Depot. Put the flat, wedged end between the back of the rotor and the carrier. Now, strike the other end of the bar like you were removing ball joints with a pickle bar. A little prying may also help. I was amazed how they popped off in one piece!
Now take the new rotors, clean and mask the braking area and spray the inside of the flange area with anti sieze as evenly as you can and not too thick because you want your wheel assembly to run true when you tighten and squeeze it down later. This will help the rotors come off much easier the next time.
A common problem, I don't understand why the factory couldn't design them to come off easier.
'Hope this helps.
Stephen
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