u joint replacing

I'm going to attempt to replace the ujoints on my truck

its a 92 4.3 extended cab with a 2 piece driveshaft...

it squeaks when starting to excellerate, and vibrates when ever I step on the gas but not when coasting or slowing down.

I checked for play in the joints and there is some...

I'm just wondering if anyone has tips before I start, like taping them in vs. pressing them in and so on...

Thanks...

I have used a Hammer in the past, but it is a real bear with the nylon locks gm uses now. I assume that the joints havn't been changed before? If not you will have to use a torch and heat the ears where the bearing cup goes into the ear till the nylon starts to ooze out. Make sure to heat evenly all the way around and then using a big drift and a big hammer punch out the brng cap and procede to the other side. Make sure to mark the shafts so they will be reassembled in the same orentation as they are now.
Using a press is easier but not everyone has access to one. You can buy u-joint presses that works like the ball joint presses on e-bay for not much money and they work quite well.
When it is time to reassemble the shaft I would use a press and not pound them together as the potential of ruining the bearing is very high. make sure all the c-clips are well seated and grease the fitting after you are done. This is a good time to change the rear seal in the tranny/transfer while the shaft is out..
good luck
Nick

DEFINITELY use heat on the ears(loops) to soften the nylon lock material.Also, use a small punch to knock out the nylon material from the ears before trying to instal the new U-joint bearing caps. If you don't have access to a press, use a BIG vise to press the new bearing caps in. Do not hammer the bearing caps in, the needle bearings will fall out and cause big problems.

Thanks guys its working excellent now...

I had the same problem on my 97 S-10, extended cab, but less than 6 months after rebuilding the driveshaft, it started vibrating again.

Do you have the double u-joints in yours? If so, the the piece in the middle, the ball and socket assembly is what gives out, not the u-joint. There is no way to lubricate this.

As such, I had a driveshaft built for my S-10 for less than 300 dollars. It is much more robust than the original driveshaft and uses replacable u-joints.

I know this is an old post, but believe, me, getting a new rear piece built for your 2-piece driveshaft will eliminate a lot of future headaches.

Take care....

eti engineer...