Motor build....HELP!!!!

Hey all....
I have decided to dump my 7 bolt and go for the 6 bolt.
This is what I have figured out will be involved and what parts I would like to use...
Looking to be able to support a Garrett GT30R (so like 475-500hp)

Any input on this list would be appreciated!!!

Thanks again..

Engine Build:
PARTS
• Wiseco Pistons 8.5:1 85.5mm, eagle rods balance shaft eliminator kit
• Clevite engine bearings (rods and mains)
• ARP Headstuds
• Forced performance FP2 cams
• Supertech intake and exhaust valves standard size
• Supertech dual springs
• Supertech titanium retainers
• OEM front cover with oil pump
• OEM full engine gasket set
• Water pump
• Tubular exhaust manifold (fabricated)
• Full timing kit including hydraulic tensioner
• Cometic head gasket
• 1g CAS
• CAS conversion harness
• MAP sensor adaptor
• 10w30 engine oil
• synchromesh
• Oil filters
• Used 6 bolt engine
LABOR
• Port and Polish cylinder head, includes cleaning up of the bowels, de-shrouding exhaust valves, port matching intake and exhaust ports
• Fully assemble and blueprint engine
• Remove engine, disassemble, install engine with complete 6 bolt swap


MACHINE SHOP
• Oven bake and shot peen cylinder block
• Bore and hone with torque plate
• Align Hone block
• Balance complete rotating assembly
• Degrease Cylinder head
• 3 angle valve job
• deck cylinder head surface if needed

Just port your stocker exhaust mani instead of getting the tubular one and get a 5-angle vavle job instead. And why don't you just stroke the damn thing? It'll cost a little more but it will be much more worth it if you're running a GT30R. And don't forget about injectors and Link. Install new valve guides too.

Just port your stocker exhaust mani instead of getting the tubular one and get a 5-angle vavle job instead. And why don't you just stroke the damn thing? It'll cost a little more but it will be much more worth it if you're running a GT30R. And don't forget about injectors and Link. Install new valve guides too.

I already have the tubular manifold....
What is the difference between a 3 and 5 angle job?
Im going to stroke it later...kinda ran out of cash for now
I have 850cc injectors and DSMlink

5-angle vavle job just has two more steps to it so that the air flows better. You probably don't *need* to do a 5 angle, but every little bit helps

Why the hell would you go through building it 2.0 if you are just going to stroke later? That makes no sense, just save and extra $400 for a crank and you'll be set. I say forget the 5 angle, 3 is good enough. Also, I would go OEM MLS head gasket over the cometic. Cometics need a pretty fine finish to seal right, OEM MLS ones just go on like a composite, no special surfaces needed. Are 850s going to be big enough for a GT30R?

Yeah since you are going to rebuild it anyway, you might as well stroke it now. On the pistons and what not the cost will be the same as well as the machine shop costs. The only thing that will be different is you need a new crank. And you can get a 2.4 crank cheap!

Also make sure you get the balance shaft removal done.

You probably don't *need* to do a 5 angle

Sigh...just like I didn't really need a fully built drag motor either. All the money I blew on this thing I could have gotten DSMLink, a TRE tranny, and a/f upgrades. "Oh yeah Craig, I'll take the Stage IV 6-bolt head, and oh yeah, how about springs and retainers so I can redline at 10,000 RPM, and oh sure why don't you throw in xxxx....etc." And here I am, driving 5 miles under the speed limit every day. The D$M gods frown from above. lol.


:banghead: I'm mucho stupido, learno from mistako. :p

fuck slowboy

:banghead: I'm mucho stupido, learno from mistako. :p
I'm sure I'll be saying the same thing when I'm all done with mine. lol :wink:

I do not agree with the head gasket ... i would go cometic .. if you are getting your head decked .. than definitly go with cometic. If you are already rebuilding ... GO STROKER! It was the best thing I have ever done to my car... esspecialy if you want to support that turbo. As for valve job 3 angle should work fine. My head is currently getting a 3 angle.

slowboy does suck nuts...

Looks like you guys are right...im going to stroke that 6 bolt also....I mean, might aswell while I have the motor appart.

Anything else I can do for improved performance while the motor is appart....besides overboring etc...

Thanks

You dont need a 5 angle valve job... Shit you dont even need to upgrade the stock 1g head besides cams. If all you want is 500whp, build a bottom end, put a stock head on it, go with a GT35r or FP3065 with the money you saved and get an intake manifold. Port the stock exhaust manifold out, add dsmlink and a set of 950cc injectors and your good to go...

Screw a stroker kit. Yes they spool large turbos quickly but a GT35r is no where close to large. I spool my GT42r just fine with my 2.0l and that is substantually larger than a 35r. Is it really worth the extra money and hassle of finding everything and getting it to work correctly (special pistons) and the added cost at the machine shop for line honing for the 4g64 crank? I just dont understand why everyone thinks a stroker kit is the way to go these days. Oh well.

A gt30 is a bit small for a storker:2cents:

A gt30 is a bit small for a storker:2cents:

I already know for my power goals I dont need the stroker. But why not put the stroker in it now so later on when I upgrade my Turbo for a bigger one, I wont have to go back and tear my motor appart. Plus my motor is in pieces now, so doesnt this seem like a good time to put the stroker in? instead of killing myself later tearing the 6 bolt appart to put the stroker in.

Well its your call. Like everyone has said before, strokers arent fwd friendly

Why not? What's wrong with stroking a fwd?...

Why not? What's wrong with stroking a fwd?...

Yeah that is something I have always wondered. A few people tell me they are not FWD friendly, but have never actually given me a good excuse why.
Can anyone clear up this issue with a good old fashion technical explanation?

Thanks
Ben

All the added torque and only the fron wheels to plant the power leads to hella traction issues even wil an lsd. The reason its a problem with a stroker is because they make all their power in lower rpm ranges. IMHO you would be better off building a higher revving 2.0L or a destroker

Take the SRT-4 for example... 2.4L with a 16g = No traction. My friend has a '04, factory with an LSD and he cant get traction for anything and it is just stock.

Imagine having twice the power. I thought you had AWD. Guess I didnt pay much attention. Definately go the 2.0 route. The added lag will save you in the end.