Please Help Quick!!

Hey all;
While out and about this evening, my car was acting weird. This is hard to explain so bare with me.

The last couple days while the car is idling, the car starts shaking really badly, and sounds like how a mustang does. Like when it sits there it jsut rumbles... do...do...do...do...do... It sounds like I got some stage 3 cams or something. It was never constant though.

However tonight it was doing it constant. It was shaking so bad, sounded weird, and the CEL came on. I pulled over, hooked up the datalogger to it, and tried to pull the CELs with it. For some reason, that doesn't work neither. It shows the CEL being on, but it won't say what it is. Anyways, everything read out fine. Idle was 780 - 850rpm, fuel was good, and everything else looked good. EXCEPT, on the SAFC, where it shows the pressure on the MAP, while idleing, it was shakey. It should stay constant, and usually does, but here it was going up and down with the vibrations of the car.

I did unplug the SAFC and put my jumper in (I used a serial port so I can disconnect the SAFC and put in a jumper for the MAP), and it was still bad. However, while coming home, like 30 minutes later, it ran decent. CEL still on.

I'm going to Autozone tm to get the codes pulled. I need to get this fixed before tomorrow afternoon. Any ideas?

I dont know this is going to help any but, my 97 rs did the same exactly thing, I change the plug and wire and put in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner, and take it out for a ride ( drove it hard ), then it run fine again.

Last I checked the plugs were good and gapped right. Wires are still pretty new. Both got about 10K miles on them.

I would either say plugs or maybe the MAP sensor itself.

I would either say plugs or maybe the MAP sensor itself.

I'm going to pull the plugs tomorrow and see. I was thinking the MAP but those are expensive, right?

Oh yeah, my gas milage also took a SHIT tonight too!

Definitely something with the air metering system or the plugs/wires. I'm still leaning towards MAP sensor though. I'll see if I can get instructions on how to test it.

1. Turn ignition on with engine off. DO NOT disconnect Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor connector. Using a DVOM, check voltage between MAP sensor connector terminals No. 1 and 3. See Fig. 7 . Voltage should be 4-5 volts. If voltage is 4-5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is not 4-5 volts, see appropriate G - TESTS W/CODES - 2.0L VINS [C,Y] & 2.4L VIN [X] article in ENGINE PERFORMANCE.

2. Start engine and run until normal operating temperature is reached. Using a DVOM, check voltage between MAP sensor connector terminals No. 1 and 3. See Fig. 7 . With engine idling, voltage should be 1.5-2.1 volts. If voltage is within specification, MAP sensor is functioning properly. If voltage is not within specification, see appropriate G - TESTS W/CODES - 2.0L VINS [C,Y] & 2.4L VIN [X] article in ENGINE PERFORMANCE.

http://img158.imageshack.us/img158/8665/mapcheck4yl.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

TEST TC-36A - MAP SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO LOW
NOTE: For connector terminal identification, see CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION . For wiring diagram, see L - WIRING DIAGRAMS - 2.0L & 2.4L in ENGINE PERFORMANCE. After each repair, perform TEST VER-2A .


Start engine. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. If voltage is less than 0.2 volt, go to step 6). If voltage is more than 0.2 volt, go to next step.
Turn engine off. Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. If voltage is less than 1.2 volt, go to step 6). If voltage is more than 1.2 volt, go to next step.
Wiggle MAP sensor connector and harness while observing scan tool display. If MAP sensor voltage changes, repair connector or harness that caused voltage change. If voltage does not change, go to next step.
At this time, the condition required to set DTC is not present. MAP SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO LOW DTC sets if MAP sensor output voltage is less than 1.2 volts at start, or less than 0.2 volt with engine running. Engine speed must be more than 400 RPM, but less than 1500 RPM, and TP sensor voltage less than one volt. Possible causes are: open MAP sensor 5-volt supply wire, MAP sensor signal wire shorted to ground, failed MAP sensor, PCM failure, failed PCM, failed connector terminals or connector wires. Go to next step.
Inspect MAP sensor wiring and connectors. Repair as required. If wiring and connectors are okay, see INACTIVE TROUBLE CODE CONDITION . Test is complete.
If MAP sensor voltage is less than 0.2 volt in step 1) or less than 1.2 volt in step 2), disconnect MAP sensor connector. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. If voltage is more than 4 volts, replace MAP sensor. If voltage is less than 4 volts, go to next step.
Using scan tool in voltmeter mode, check voltage on MAP sensor connector terminal No. 1 (Dark Green/Yellow wire on FJ22 and F24S bodies; Violet/White wire on JA and PL bodies). If voltage is less than 4 volts, repair open Dark Green/Yellow wire or Violet/White wire. If voltage is more than 4 volts, go to next step.
Turn ignition off. Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector. Inspect PCM connector. Repair any terminals that are damaged, pushed out or miswired. If PCM connector is okay, go to next step.
Using an external ohmmeter, check resistance between MAP sensor connector terminals No. 2 (Black/Dark Green wire on FJ22 and F24S bodies; Black/Light Blue wire on JA and PL bodies) and No. 3 (Yellow/Black wire on FJ22 and F24S bodies; Dark Green/Red wire on JA and PL bodies). If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair circuits shorted together. If resistance is more than 5 ohms, go to next step.
Using scan tool in ohmmeter mode, check resistance of MAP sensor connector terminal No. 3 (Yellow/Black wire on FJ22 and F24S bodies; Dark Green/Red wire on JA and PL bodies). If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair short to ground in Yellow/Black wire or Dark Green/Red wire. If resistance is more than 5 ohms, replace PCM.

TEST TC-37A - MAP SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO HIGH
NOTE: For connector terminal identification, see CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION . For wiring diagram, see L - WIRING DIAGRAMS - 2.0L & 2.4L in ENGINE PERFORMANCE. After each repair, perform TEST VER-2A .


Start engine. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. If voltage is more than 4.6 volts, go to step 5). If voltage is less than 4.6 volts, go to next step.
Wiggle MAP sensor connector and harness while observing scan tool display. If MAP sensor voltage changes, repair connector or harness that caused voltage change. If voltage does not change, go to next step.
At this time, the condition required to set DTC is not present. MAP SENSOR VOLTAGE TOO HIGH DTC sets if MAP sensor output voltage is more than 4.6 volts at start, or with engine running. Engine speed must be more than 400 RPM, but less than 1500 RPM, and throttle position sensor voltage less than one volt. Possible causes are: open MAP sensor signal wire, MAP sensor open internally, failed ground wire, MAP sensor signal wire shorted to voltage, failed PCM, failed connector terminals or connector wires. Go to next step.
Inspect MAP sensor wiring and connectors. Repair as required. If wiring and connectors are okay, see INACTIVE TROUBLE CODE CONDITION . Test is complete.
If MAP sensor voltage is more than 4.6 volts in step 1), turn ignition off. Disconnect MAP sensor connector. Turn ignition on. Connect a jumper wire between MAP sensor connector terminals No. 2 (Black/Dark Green wire on FJ22 and F24S bodies; Black/Light Blue wire on JA and PL bodies) and No. 3 (Yellow/Black wire on FJ22 and F24S bodies; Dark Green/Red wire on JA and PL bodies). Go to next step.
Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage while starting engine or with engine running. If scan tool displays NO RESPONSE, repair circuits shorted together. If scan tool does not display NO RESPONSE, go to next step.
If scan tool displays less than one volt, replace MAP sensor. If scan tool displays more than one volt, move jumper wire from MAP sensor connector terminal No. 2 (Black/Dark Green wire on FJ22 and F24S bodies; Black/Light Blue wire on JA and PL bodies) to chassis ground. Go to next step.
If scan tool displays less than one volt, repair open Black/Dark Green wire or Black/Light Blue wire. If voltage is more than one volt, turn ignition off. Go to next step.
Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector. Inspect PCM connector. Repair any terminals that are damaged, pushed out or miswired. If PCM connector is okay, go to next step.
Using an external ohmmeter, check resistance of MAP sensor signal circuit (Yellow/Black wire on FJ22 and F24S bodies; Dark Green/Red wire on JA and PL bodies) between MAP sensor connector terminal No. 3 and PCM connector terminal No. 29 on FJ22, F24S and PL bodies or No. 36 on JA body. If resistance is more than 5 ohms, repair open Yellow/Black wire or Dark Green/Red wire. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM.
NOTE: A break in test sequence occurs at this point. Sequence skips from TEST TC-37A to TEST TC-39A. No test has been omitted.


TEST TC-39A - NO CHANGE IN MAP FROM START TO RUN
NOTE: For connector terminal identification, see CONNECTOR IDENTIFICATION . For wiring diagram, see L - WIRING DIAGRAMS - 2.0L & 2.4L in ENGINE PERFORMANCE. After each repair, perform TEST VER-2A .


Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, read DTCs. If scan tool displays VOLTAGE TOO LOW, go to TEST TC-36A . If scan tool does not display VOLTAGE TOO LOW, go to next step.
Using scan tool, erase DTCs. Start engine. Allow engine to idle for 30 seconds. Using scan tool, read DTCs. If scan tool displays NO CHANGE IN MAP FROM START TO RUN, go to step 7). If scan tool does not display NO CHANGE IN MAP FROM START TO RUN, go to next step.
With engine still running, use scan tool to set engine speed to 1500 RPM. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. While observing scan tool display, wiggle wiring harness from MAP sensor to PCM. If scan tool displays erratic voltage or engine stalls when wiring harness is wiggled, repair wiring harness where wiggling caused problem. If scan tool does not display erratic voltage or engine does not stall when wiring harness is wiggled, go to next step.
While observing scan tool display, snap throttle open and closed. If scan tool displays vacuum did not drop rapidly to less than one in. Hg, go to step 6). If scan tool displays vacuum dropped rapidly to less than one in. Hg, go to next step.
At this time, the condition required to set DTC is not present. NO CHANGE IN MAP FROM START TO RUN DTC sets if too small a difference is seen between barometric pressure at key on and manifold vacuum after start up. Possible causes are: restricted or leaking vacuum/pressure hose to MAP sensor, ice in sensor or passage, MAP sensor failure, failed PCM, failed connector terminals or connector wires. Test is complete.
If scan tool displays vacuum did not drop rapidly to less than one in. Hg in step 4), remove MAP sensor and check for restrictions. If a restriction is present, remove restriction and reinstall MAP sensor. If restriction is not present, replace MAP sensor.
If scan tool displays NO CHANGE IN MAP FROM START TO RUN in step 2), turn ignition on. Remove MAP sensor and check for restrictions. If a restriction is present, remove restriction and reinstall MAP sensor. If restriction is not present, go to next step.
Using scan tool in voltmeter mode, check voltage on MAP sensor connector terminal No. 1 (Dark Green/Yellow wire on FJ22 and F24S bodies; Violet/Yellow wire on JA and PL bodies). If voltage is less than 4 volts, repair open Dark Green/Yellow wire or Violet/Yellow wire. If voltage is more than 4 volts, replace MAP sensor.

sounds like an air metering glitch to me. Could you have gotten bad gas by any chance?

sounds like an air metering glitch to me. Could you have gotten bad gas by any chance?

I'm trying to think where I last filled up. I think it was some place different from where I usually go, like farther out. But I don't remember right now. Would adding octane booster help it out?

No, those octane boosters are a waste of money and don't do anything. Just try putting some new gas in it from the place you normally get it.

So I went to autozone today and the CEL was a P0401... again. The EGR insuffiencient flow.... again. I replaced my old EGR valve a little while back with one from Travis' car, all cleaned and everything. I reaplced the soleniod with one from his too, but that threw a CEL quickly, so I put back on the old solenoid, and the CEL didn't come on until last night from it then.

I filled up at my regular station today, put in some fuel injector cleaner, and checked the plugs. The plugs still look perfect. No oil, steady burn.... everything looks good. I have a video of how my car sputters alittle. You have to listen closely though. Ill post it up in a few

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/c306b23e-2343-48c5-9ea3-1cf150a4a997.htm

Here's the video. Listen more to the exhaust then the engine. You can hear it like not sound right.

does the engine shaking ? ( I cant really tell from the video ), just change new plug and wire ( i get plug and wire from autozone with life time warranty :evillol: ). My sound just like that, timing is off sound like that too. by the way after get new plug and wire, drive the car like shit ( floor it ).

Sorry man but that video was shitty and I couldn't really tell anything.

I cleaned up the EGR alittle. I took off the hose from the soleniod to the IM and made sure air could flow. The sprayed TB cleaner where it connects to the IM. I also took off the MAP sensor and sprayed TB cleaner in there too.

When driving to work (full tank, fuel cleaner, and the cleaning) the car ran strong like animal ;-) It had power. I touched the gas and it went. IDK what the deal is now. Maybe I should jsut buy a whole new EGR valve and new soleniod. IDK.

I cleaned up the EGR alittle. I took off the hose from the soleniod to the IM and made sure air could flow. The sprayed TB cleaner where it connects to the IM. I also took off the MAP sensor and sprayed TB cleaner in there too.

When driving to work (full tank, fuel cleaner, and the cleaning) the car ran strong like animal ;-) It had power. I touched the gas and it went. IDK what the deal is now. Maybe I should jsut buy a whole new EGR valve and new soleniod. IDK.

So is it still shaking like crazy?