new parts hook up

I went out and bought a manule boost controller and a boost gauge for my 91 tsi, does any body know how to hook them up?? and where is the best place to run the vaccume line from the engine to the inside of the car? thanks:1zhelp:

www.vfaq.com

It has everything you need to know about these cars.

T the line coming from your blow off valve and stick the one end of the boost controller (inlet) to that side and then stick the outlet to your waste gate actuator. As for your boost gauge also T it from that line and run it through your steering column (You might have to drill a small hole)
If you need a pic Ill show you.

That's a terrible way to route the lines. I had it like that and had awful boost creep / spike and a malfunctioning BOV. I can't stress this enough, the BOV and the MBC need their own lines!! Do not share these lines, you can tap the boost gauge onto the BOV line only. Since you are a 1g, you should have a boost source right on your j-pipe, use that for your boost controller. Use the line going to your BOV for the boost gauge. ONLY route them this way, it will save you a major headache later (believe me I've had it)



steviek, if that's how you have your lines hooked up, change it to how I said above, get a boost source tapped to either the licp or the j-pipe. Make that MBC line as short as possible. The difference is huge!

yea thats how I have it on mine... But i just followed a diagram for like joe p boost controller.
It seems to be working for me I don't know if I should mess with something thats not broken?
What kind of difference are we talking about?

well there's been some lengthy discussions about it on tuners, but basically the mbc causes the BOV to get an innacurate signal, it opens too late. When they share the same line, they "trick" eacother, read about it on tuners if you really want more info.

Another HUGE aspect is the amount of vacuum line. For a MBC, you want the absolute shortest vac line possible to reduce boost spike. I had my JoeP T'd off from the BOV just like recommended, but look how far that is from the wastegate. Mine was around 4-5 feet of tubing. By tapping the MBC to a boost source much closer to the wastegate, you decrease the amount of time it takes for the air signal to get to the wastegate, therefore you reduce boost spike.

I used to spike to around 21 psi, then settle to around 16-17. This is why it was so hard to dyno tune, and my numbers weren't that impressive. With the new mbc tap, i have about 6 inches total of vacuum line, and ZERO boost spike. Holds 20 psi from 3200rpm to redline. Really do yourself a favor and look into it, you'll notice the differences immediately.

Yea I get what your saying, makes sense. Now I actually got to go out there and do it BORRING>... Oh well. Thanks for tapping (no pun intended) into my happy sheltered world.

ok so which pipe is my J pipe there are so many pipes in one area. is it the one with the blov on it that is hooked up to the intercooler as well?

The J pipe is the intercooler pipe that looks like J...hence the name.

unless he is still stock. 1g's don't have a jpipe, it's more of an L pipe than anything. Its the pipe coming out of your turbo, NOT on the intake side, the other one, it's black. Someone with a 1g explain it better!

Yea I get what your saying, makes sense. Now I actually got to go out there and do it BORRING>... Oh well. Thanks for tapping (no pun intended) into my happy sheltered world.


You'll notice the difference. I had a local shop weld the source for like 20 bucks too, it's very easy in labor.

Someone with a 1g explain it better!
To see the J-pipe put your hand on the air filter. Move your hand down the intake pipe to the turbo. You see where that pipe from the filter connects on the turbo? That is NOT the J-pipe. Now look at the silver piece of the turbo that the intake pipe goes onto. There will be one more opening on that silver piece of the turbo, it will be on the front bumper side of the turbo. See where theres a black pipe bolted to the silver part of the turbo with a black hose clamped onto the other end? That would be your J-pipe.

so im looking at the bov and the vaccume line that is hooked up to it going back in to the intake manifiold, that is what i hook my boost gauge up to?

ok so i now have every thing hooked up the way it should be: the gauge to the bov and the controller to the J pipe, i am running what looks to be about 10psi. (I need more boost!!) i don't think my controller is turned up for more boost, now my question this time is what is the safe amount of boost that can go through the engine for the stock 4g63 engine with only upgraded tubuler manifold, 16g small turbo made for a 5 speed (all from DSM parts.com) but installed on an automatic for now, with cat back exhaust, opened up k&N airfilter intake, high pro fuel pump and stock intercooler.

as much as you want until you heatsoak that intercooler, but only if you have upgraded your injectors, otherwise ~12 psi. Get at least some 550s. But then you'll need a logging device (good idea anyways) and a tuning device.

Never knew they made 16g turbo's that are made for 5 speeds only? Seems to me you have a lot of basic reading to do. Before I even purchased a turbo dsm, I was on here reading and on vfaq and dsmtuners.com, just reading and searching for a car. You really should look into it. The basic stuff is the fun stuff to learn and know. Its the tunning that makes you get a headache as if you were in school.

As far as your question, with your set up, I would say no higher than 12/13psi(at the most). Remember, automatic 1g's have 390 injectors in them(not the stock 5 sp 450's).

no the thing is, the tubines in turbos are made two diffrent ways bigger tubines for one type of transmisson, and smaller turbines for the other tranny. when i ordered my turbo from dsmparts they didn't ask what type of tranny i had, so they sent me one that was made for a 5spd, and by the time i relized it i couldn't return it so now all i have to do is spend another 500.00 to have it converted over for a automatic, inless i can find an identicle car like mine but a 5 spd.

that's wrong. The only difference in turbos between the auto and the mannys was that the autos got a 13b turbo which is a bit smaller than the manual 14b. However, they will swap out just fine. Who told you otherwise?

turbos made for a 5spd spool up slower then the ones made for an automatic, they spool up faster, bc the autos are made set up to shift at a sertain point and the 5spds u can shift at low or high rpms when ever you want

this is the last time I will attempt to help you. The smaller turbo (13b) in the auto does spool a TINY bit faster just because it's a little smaller. The bigger turbo (14b) still spools EXTREMELY fast and you won't notice a difference, but it's a much better turbo. The difference in spool is negligible, but not the difference in power. Keep your 14b turbo, put it in your car, enjoy it. Look into getting some fuel and fuel control.

i cant put my stock turbo back on bc, it won't fit on to the manifold that i now have and my stock turbo is totaly shot, needs rebuilt and my stock manifold is crack and got thrown a way, besides the turbo i have on the engine right now gives me so much power that it squels the tires as it shifts from 1 to 2 gear for an automatic.

lol, my rav4 could squeal inbetween 1-2

you're not making any sense so I'm done trying to help you.

ah what were trying to help me with once again?
i do have one problem and that would be the bov not dumping for some reason, the gauge goes up to 15psi and just sits there even when the car shifts, the only time when it goes back down is when i let off the gas.

That is what automatics do. They hold the boost in between shifts. Not as "cool" as a 5 sp b.c you dont get to hear your bov dump, But you do get to hear the turbo constantly at full boost which isnt too bad.