b16a fluids

hey guys with a b16a and cable tranny..do you kno how much oil, transmission fluid, and radiator fluid ill need to refill it?? im gettin this thing done tomorrow and have to get my fluids still.

Oil is 4.2Q for a change and 5.1Q for a fresh build. (10w-30 or 20w-50 depending on climate)
Coolant is 5.0Q for a change and 6.0Q empty(50/50mix)
Trans is 2.2Q change, 2.3Q empty(10w-30 engine oil)

Oil is 4.2Q for a change and 5.1Q for a fresh build. (10w-30 or 20w-50 depending on climate)
Coolant is 5.0Q for a change and 6.0Q empty(50/50mix)
Trans is 2.2Q change, 2.3Q empty(10w-30 engine oil)

if you want to run synthetic...run German castrol syntec. It only comes in 0w-30, but don't be afraid of the weight...it's actually more like a combination of 5w-30 and 10w-30. TRUST me on this one. It's better than mobil-1 synthetic, and has been tested to protect better and last longer than mobil 1, which tends to burn in hondas. I swear, you won't have any problems with this oil, like i said, don't let the weight scare you, it's misleading. Also, it doesn't oxidize as quick (black color). People who use mobil synthetic know what I'm talking about. That stuff oxidizes almost instantly. When you change your oil, it looks black and thin like water...yep, that's mobil 1 for ya.
I wouldn't recommend anything that I haven't tried myself. I recommend it to all my customers and use it in all my builds after they are broken in. I started using this oil after I put 500 miles on my freshly built lsvtec motor. My motor doesn't burn a DROP of oil, even at 9k.
Go to bobistheoilguy.com to learn more about it. It is comparable in quality to royal purple and redline oil. Let me warn you though, this stuff is expensive, but addictive. And, it's green! There's an interesting story behind why it's green, but you can find that at that website i gave you.
Sad thing is though, it's only available at autozone and walmart, and few other remote places.
If you don't feel like using synthetic, or you find that you burn synthetic, change to non-syn. Good non syn's include mobil one, and castrol gtx. Use 5w-30. If you have cold winters, use 10w-30 in the winter. DONT use any oil additives like marvel mystery oil or lucas...that stuff is junk. If you are STILL burning oil...it's time for a rebuild.

Honestly, I'd recommend this oil to anyone with a honda motor, unless you are currently burning oil, this stuff is amazing.

For an oil filter, i'd recommend using an oem genuine honda one and get an rsx type-s one. Believe it or not, when you buy oil filters for most hondas now, they'll give you that filter anyway, including all civics, crx's, delsol's, integras, etc. They got rid of the old larger style filters and sell every body the K filters for there B and D series now. They actually bump oil pressure up about 10-15 psi, which is good for vtec too. If you don't want to pay for a honda filter, get a mobil one filter for an rsx type-s. Of course, the older fatter style will still work, just give you slightly less oil pressure.

as for the coolant, prestone is good, but use whatever you like. Use a 70:30-50:50 mixture in the summer, and a 50:50-30:70 ratio in the winter (water to coolant ratio). Believe it or not, having a mixture higher in water will actually keep your car cooler. Anti-freeze is just that, so that your coolant doesn't freeze and expand in the winter, destroying your motor. Antifreeze wasn't designed to prevent overheating, but the opposite. That's why it is called "ANTIFREEZE"....lol. Antifreeze has a lower boiling point, doesn't exchange heat as good, and heats up faster than water. Don't believe me? There's a reason track only and race cars run 100% water...because it cools better than antifreeze. I run a mixture that is 20% coolant and 80% water. My engine management shows that my coolant is 4 degrees celcius cooler with the higher water mixture. You still need to use some antifreeze on daily driven cars though because it defends against corrosion and rust...which can destroy your water pump. Some people get away with this though and use a few drops of dish liquid in there coolant. It has glycol like antifreeze, which protects against corrosion. Keep in mind though, that if you use mixtures that are high in water, you have to change your coolant more often. No big deal, don't be lazy. Just change it at the end of the summer.

As for your tranny, use mobil 1 10w-30 synthetic or pennzoil syncromesh synthetic. They both work great. Honda mtf works good too, obviously.

how do i fill my transmission with fluid?? thru the top cap or what??

The VW dealership pushes the German Castrol synthetic stuff but they ass-rape you for it. We use U.S. Castrol full synthetic but VW has high mileage now and still runs pretty smooth.

I use a Purolator Pure-1 filter and I can only find the smaller one these days. I didn't know they bump up oil pressure but it makes sense. I use fossil oil Castrol 10w-30 so I don't really care much about it though.

Unless Honda has changed the internal material on their filters, they are still paper componants, just like Frams. Because of this I have stopped using their filters. Napa gold filters are built identical to Mobil 1filters, and are 1/3 the cost.

The US spec Castrol fully synthetic is not a true synthetic like they say. Thus the need for the german spec oil.

Your trans has two caps, you can put it in the top one.

Unless Honda has changed the internal material on their filters, they are still paper componants, just like Frams. Because of this I have stopped using their filters. Napa gold filters are built identical to Mobil 1filters, and are 1/3 the cost.

The US spec Castrol fully synthetic is not a true synthetic like they say. Thus the need for the german spec oil.

yep, the German castrol is not the same as the US made castrol. The real german castrol ONLY comes in 0w-30, and is GREEN.

also, fram's are not the same as honda filters. Not even close Kris. They do use the same paper filter, but that's it. Do the research on bobistheoilguy.com...it has absolutely EVERYTHING you need to know about oil and any filter man ever made. I don't feel like writing it all out because I've got a short lunch break....lol.

also, for filling the tranny...you can fill it in two places, either through the speedo drive, or through the fill plug to the left of the passenger axle. Fill until it starts to pour out.

Since youve already got the speedo drive out, its a much bigger hole and easier to reach, thats how I did mine. Just make sure the upper plug is out on the side or youll end up filling the whole tranny.

what? so i fill from the speedo sensor spot after removing the side cap. then fill till it is full? sorry i had the same question

Yeah remove the upper side plug so that you know when it is full, and pour in from the speedo drive hole, when it comes out the side hole its full.

also, fram's are not the same as honda filters. Not even close Kris. They do use the same paper filter, but that's it. Do the research on bobistheoilguy.com...it has absolutely EVERYTHING you need to know about oil and any filter man ever made. I don't feel like writing it all out because I've got a short lunch break....lol.


They must have changed their design within the past few years then.

ok guys solved my shift linkage problem..the pin was stuck in there and my punch snapped in it so its gonna be in there a while. thanks to a little good luck i noticed the new linkage had a removable bolt so i just added 2 washers and it works perfectly..had to go to the acura dealer for a bushing and washers for the stay arm and that set me back 20..got all my hoses, fluids, tees, bolts, and a breather filter for the intake..another 100 and the bastards at autozone wouldnt give me two punches to get a free 20 dollar card since it was one transaction..ive went there for my whole swap for the most part and they couldnt do that for me..the fill plug is just to the left of the passenger axle insert and its not hard to fill.we just the hoisted the engine a little to put a funnel in and slowly fill..did take about 2.3Q cuz i put in a little more and it came out when i lowered it.

ill post a pic tomorrow of the beast sittin in the engine bay..its not all bolted in yet cuz i still gotta do a little more grinding on the crossmember to make way for those headers. idk how my radiator is gonna fit with that small fan on the drivers side. what is that one used for??

ok guys solved my shift linkage problem..the pin was stuck in there and my punch snapped in it so its gonna be in there a while. thanks to a little good luck i noticed the new linkage had a removable bolt so i just added 2 washers and it works perfectly..had to go to the acura dealer for a bushing and washers for the stay arm and that set me back 20..got all my hoses, fluids, tees, bolts, and a breather filter for the intake..another 100 and the bastards at autozone wouldnt give me two punches to get a free 20 dollar card since it was one transaction..ive went there for my whole swap for the most part and they couldnt do that for me..the fill plug is just to the left of the passenger axle insert and its not hard to fill.we just the hoisted the engine a little to put a funnel in and slowly fill..did take about 2.3Q cuz i put in a little more and it came out when i lowered it.

ill post a pic tomorrow of the beast sittin in the engine bay..its not all bolted in yet cuz i still gotta do a little more grinding on the crossmember to make way for those headers. idk how my radiator is gonna fit with that small fan on the drivers side. what is that one used for??


AC fan. Get rid of it.

but im still runnin my ac!! will i need to get a different radiator like the ones in the 92's??

but im still runnin my ac!! will i need to get a different radiator like the ones in the 92's??

it should all fit fine. Are you using the b16 ac bracket and compressor? I don't think your stock ones will work. I do have the ones you need though, so let me know. I have ac brackets and power steering brackets/pumps from like 7 obd0 b16 motors that people didn't want.
If the fan doesn't fit with your stock header, just get a slimfan from autozone or something. I don't see why it wouldn't though.

Hey bambam, I am interested in those brackets, both AC and PS. I really dont want to pay 180.00 for a hasport one, and Im seriously considering a swap to power steering.

ive already got the brackets and the pump but im not puttin in p/s..ill look into a slim fan when i get the motor all settled in and see how much space i have.

Hey bambam, I am interested in those brackets, both AC and PS. I really dont want to pay 180.00 for a hasport one, and Im seriously considering a swap to power steering.

20 per bracket. $45 shipped for both. Do you need the ps pump too?

If its in working order that would make me a little more comfortable than pulling a junkyard pump. But one question..will the hatch's PS rack fit my crx? if not then just the ac bracket.