95 GA Charging Problem

I have a 95 Grand Am Gt 3.1 liter automatic. The instrument cluster has a voltage guage and charge warning light. Symptoms: Charge warning light has flickered a few times but doesn't stay on. Voltage reads about 14.5 when you first start driving and then will gradually drop to just over 13 after 10 or 15 minutes. With headlights and A/C on, it will drop as low as 11 volts at idle and stays about 13 volts when driving. I have replaced the alternator and the battery but still have the same problem. I have owned this car about 5 years and the voltmeter has always been fairly steady around 14.5 so I believe there is a problem somewhere. Any help greatly appreciated.

was that a new altr ??

Those reading are not far off though. As long as its keeping charge, and doesnt continue to drop voltage.

Check all the connections and make sure they are clean and tight. That might help.

Other wise, you might get the alt test to be sure its working 100%.

The alternator is a Duralast Gold Reman unit from Autozone. I replaced this alternator in 2001 with a lifetime warranty. I had the alternator tested at Autozone: The voltage readings showed the same as I reported above and the max amperage was 31. I'm not sure if the person running the tests knew what he was doing - but I believe the available amperage should be much higher and the voltage should not drop below 13.2 with the engine running. However, after replacing the alternator I am getting the same voltage readings at the dash guage as before. I have not had the new alternator tested, but the symptoms are identical to before. I have owned this car for 5 years and 60k miles and never seen the voltmeter read in the 10.5 range with the engine running - until now that is. I'm certain there is a problem here and I now doubt that it is the alternator since I get the same symptoms with a new alternator as I did with the old one.

Get a new alternator !
That thing shoud be maxing between 80-100amps and 14.7volts AT LEAST when the cars running.

DuraLast isnt the best alternator in the world either. And just because its got a LIFE Time warrnty, doesnt mean it'll last your life time or the cars :lol:
I wouild think that a 5 year old alternator, was a good deal and you got your moneys worth.

I just replaced the alternator (see previous posts). Still having the same symptoms.

well if its a New alt and its only putting out 31amps it defective.
Your voltage regulator(inside the alt) could be toast, and or the fused link between your alt and battery is blown.

Again, it is possible to get a NEW alternator that is bad/defective.

Good Luck

Definately consider a new alternator, possibly buying one from a different store. I had an autozone alternator, got 2 years out of it before it died on me last winter. Went back in with my receipt, got my money back and went to napa.

You do get what you pay for!

I do understand, moneys tight,
so you gotta save a buck where ever you can.
But in the long run, you dont say anything.

I think what's even more frustrating is when you get bad parts from the dealership.

What is the fused link?

What ever ended up happening with your car, I am having similar problems.

A "fused link" is a fusible link - which similar to an in-line fuse.

I am still having the same problem. Oddly when you first start the car the voltage reads around 14.5 - 15.0 which is where it should be. Then at some point later - sometimes a few seconds, others a few minutes, the voltage drops to about 13.0 - and it drops suddenly as though a switch were flipped. When it is reading 14.5 or so, you can turn on the AC and headlights and still get about 14.0 in drive. But once it drops down you only get about 10.5 with AC, headlights and idling in drive.

I would suspect the voltage regulator except that I get the exact same symptoms with a new alternator as I did with the old one. It doesn't seem likely that both would have the same odd, quirky problem. It may be a wiring problem, but usually intermittent wiring problems come and go at random and these symptoms are very repetitive / predictable.

I haven't done any further diagnosis. I'm just driving it since the battery does stay charged up. I will post here if I find out what causing it.

I am still having the same problem. Oddly when you first start the car the voltage reads around 14.5 - 15.0 which is where it should be. Then at some point later - sometimes a few seconds, others a few minutes, the voltage drops to about 13.0 - and it drops suddenly as though a switch were flipped. When it is reading 14.5 or so, you can turn on the AC and headlights and still get about 14.0 in drive. But once it drops down you only get about 10.5 with AC, headlights and idling in drive.

I would suspect the voltage regulator except that I get the exact same symptoms with a new alternator as I did with the old one. It doesn't seem likely that both would have the same odd, quirky problem. It may be a wiring problem, but usually intermittent wiring problems come and go at random and these symptoms are very repetitive / predictable.

I haven't done any further diagnosis. I'm just driving it since the battery does stay charged up. I will post here if I find out what causing it.

You might try and clean all your battery connection. Make sure they are not corrodid. Also double check that plug connector on the alternator, make sure its clean and dry, and not any broken/loose wires.

Electrical troubles can be a pita to track down.

Also your cars voltage reg is inside the alternator, charging or jumping your cars battery(while its all connected) can fry the diods in the alternator and it wouldnt charge the battry if it toast.
Good Hunting !