obd-0 to obd-1

ok i just bought all the parts i needed to "rebuild my engine". now i want to switch to obd-1. I bought the skunk2 jumper harness already, but don't know what else i need to buy.
i think i need a new dizzy and a 4 wire o2 sensor.

what 02 sensor do i buy(what car).

if there is anything else i'm forgetting please help...

ok i would go looking for a 92 95 civic o2 censor but wait till somone canfirms that that is good. i dont know why it wouldent 92-95 civics are obd-1 but for the rest you will need an obd-1 dizzy and injectors and thats all i can think of since you already have the jumper. but i hear there is no reason to switch over noe because the main reason for it is the tuning. but now you tune obd-0 cars just as easily if not easyer. get what im sayin?

yeah 2poor2tune is right..i just hooked up my ecu kit the other night and im finishin the injectors right now..if you need some obd-1 injectors ill sell them to ya. they only have about 30k on them. i got a whole kit that converts the two harnesses for the distributor and had a vtec plug and play adapter. get a 4-wire O2 from a 92-95 cuz it has good length. what type of header do you have on it? is your o2 bung in the front or back?

you dont NEED to change injectors you can still run peak and hold style with the box on obd1

are you asking me these questions? if so heres the answer. i have no header right now if fact i done aven have an exhaust manifold on my car. it dont run. but i have just been looking this stuff up and have came across it over the months of my honda swapping experience. and i dont know about the o2 bung thing. i have seen them up front on the obd-0 stuff but on the back for obd-1 so i would go for a header with the back spot.i think they make extensions for that stuff. for the wires.

you dont NEED to change injectors you can still run peak and hold style with the box on obd1

correct. All honda/acura ecu's send the same voltage/current. It's the injectors that are different. If you use peak and hold style injectors (88-91 civic/crx, 90-91 integra, and some 92+ preludes and accords), then you use a resistor box. If you use saturated style (92+civic, 92+integra, etc.) then you don't. It's got nothing to do with OBD itself.

ok i would go looking for a 92 95 civic o2 censor but wait till somone canfirms that that is good. i dont know why it wouldent 92-95 civics are obd-1 but for the rest you will need an obd-1 dizzy and injectors and thats all i can think of since you already have the jumper. but i hear there is no reason to switch over noe because the main reason for it is the tuning. but now you tune obd-0 cars just as easily if not easyer. get what im sayin?

correct. I run software called "BRE" which is equivalent, if not better than hondata for OBD0. There is also software called "turboedit" that allows you to modify boost maps for obd0. I run a wideband input into my ecu (5 wire o2 sensor), and then I can view my a/f ratio through a digital guage on my laptop, which is hooked up to my ecu via usb cable. I also have datalogging through another usb cable, which allows me to view coolant temp, air temp, rpms, speed, vtec activation, air fuel ratios, etc., and all of this comes from my stock ecu. I can disable check engine lights, my knock sensor, set vtec activation, set rev limits and speed limits where i want them, and set two step launching. I also run peak and hold injectors. My car is running of my obd0 PR3 ecu. I have the ability to tune it on the fly, while im at 9k, or idle, and it is great (aka real time programming).
All of this from OBD0. It just took some time for a few people to figure out the obd0 stuff. But it's here now, and here to stay. I'll admit though, it's just starting to get more widely used and available so there aren't alot of people knowledgable on this matter.
If you don't feel like doing any learning, saving a bit of money, and helping the OBD0 movement, then convert to OBD1 and use hondata, neptune, or uberdata.
Honestly, either way will work.

I suggest doing all your research on pgmfi.org, if you would like to learn further and understand all of this.

thanks for letting me no all that. how much do you think you spent on that hole setup. i mean the computer setup. chip, tuning supplies, installation suplies. if its to much to list you dont have to i was just wondering. sprry to steal the thread

Price list breakdown:
ALL of this can be found @ xenocron.com. They sell everything you need in a kits.

Here's what the kit i purchased included.
Ostrich emulator
datalogging kit
chipping kit (zif socket, reprogrammable chip, datalogging header)
Innovate LC-1 wideband and controller

All this for $410 shipped. I sent my ecu to xenocron, and he installed the zif socket and datalogging header for an additional $50. Once you get your ecu back, there isn't much work required on your part, except to plug in the ostrich and datalogging cables into your laptop, which are just USB cables coming from your ECU. The ostrich is basically a ROM emulator. You don't need "chips" in your computer anymore. The "ostrich" connects to a 28 pin (same as stock) reprogrammable chip, via a 28 wire connector, and plugs in the stock chip location. It allows you to reburn the chip at any time, while the car is running, etc., so you don't have to constantly remove and reburn your chip. Essentially, this is the same as hondata.

So, I paid $460 for everything.
You can pay over $300 for a wideband 02 sensor alone usually. And another $300-$600 for hondata.

I already owned a laptop though, so you might need to calculate that into the cost if you don't have one.

I also paid $200 for 310cc injectors from him also (very cheap).

yeah i have a header with the o2 bung in the back so i used the stock o2 sensor rather than the extended one that came with it. i was askin hondacivic99sivtec cuz if he needs it i have one

yeah i have a header with the o2 bung in the back so i used the stock o2 sensor rather than the extended one that came with it. i was askin hondacivic99sivtec cuz if he needs it i have one

having it at the back of the header is fine....here's the deal though:

having your o2 at the end of the header means you are getting an average of the a/f for all cylinders
having it on the 3rd runner (stock location, hottest cylinder) will show only the a/f of that cylinder.

you decide which is better. The best way would be to have an o2 in each cylinder as well as individually adjustable injectors...but that's crazy.

Id prefer an average personally, if something happens to one of my cylinders I would like my ecu to know about it.