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96 Civic Ex


tkrueger06
06-10-2006, 05:11 PM
I have a 96 civic ex coupe and i am trying to upgrade my engine's performance (hp, torque, psi). I have considered an engine swap or a turbo kit, but i am not sure which is right for me now. And is there a turbo kit that would fit my d series engine and if i was to do an engine swap, fit the new b series engine?? here's a link as to what im looking for engine wise:
http://www.jspecautosports.com/catalog_product.aspx?prod_id=9 b16b-r
http://www.jspecautosports.com/catalog_product.aspx?prod_id=7 b16a

I have a crack in the exhaust manifold and i need to upgrade to a higher perfomance exhaust, so should i wait for the engine swap with a new manifold or should i just get a new header/catback exhaust kit?

Also, if i did an engine swap, since my civic is an auto, how difficult is it to convert my car to a 5spd? The car is perfect minus the auto..... that's why i bought it.

And as for the turbo, my car has 135,000 miles, so would the engine swap be better for it now? Another thing that bugs me is when i floor the pedal, the car slowly accels and then after it hits 2nd it accels much faster... why the slow accel?

Any input is appreciated......

Geeko
06-13-2006, 03:27 AM
One Chunk at a time...

I have a 96 civic ex coupe and i am trying to upgrade my engine's performance (hp, torque, psi). I have considered an engine swap or a turbo kit, but i am not sure which is right for me now. And is there a turbo kit that would fit my d series engine and if i was to do an engine swap, fit the new b series engine?? here's a link as to what im looking for engine wise:
http://www.jspecautosports.com/catalog_product.aspx?prod_id=9 b16b-r
http://www.jspecautosports.com/catalog_product.aspx?prod_id=7 b16a


The easy answer is: No. There is no complete kit that will bolt on to a D16Y8 engine, and also bolt on to a B16/a engine. The exhaust and intake manifolds are totally different. Also, even though those engines have the same displacement, the B-series engines have a much higher compression ratio, so a different turbo or turbo setup is required.

What it all comes down to is this- do you want to swap your engine? Keeping in mind wiether this will have to be a very reliable car, overall costs, etc etc, it's a decision you need to make before you do anything else.


I have a crack in the exhaust manifold and i need to upgrade to a higher perfomance exhaust, so should i wait for the engine swap with a new manifold or should i just get a new header/catback exhaust kit?


Again, see above. A more-open exhaust kit will increase your horsepower somewhat, but you won't see any real gains until you've done more aftermarket work. The biggest gains on engines are cumulative- everything working together makes the engine work better. Don't go too crazy, though- a 4" exhaust is rather excessive, even with a turbo engine.


Also, if i did an engine swap, since my civic is an auto, how difficult is it to convert my car to a 5spd? The car is perfect minus the auto..... that's why i bought it.


If you do an engine swap make sure you get the transmission, linkages, clutch pedal and master cylinder from whatever donor vehicle you find. So long as it's a hydrolically-activated clutch, it should bolt in to your car.

Oh, you'll need the interior center console if you're planning on having one- the automatic version doesn't really work well.


And as for the turbo, my car has 135,000 miles, so would the engine swap be better for it now? Another thing that bugs me is when i floor the pedal, the car slowly accels and then after it hits 2nd it accels much faster... why the slow accel?


You can install a turbocharger on it now, but I wouldn't exceed about 6psi of boost, considering stock internals on a not-new engine. Honda engines are remarkably robust, and with a properly set-up system you can easily get near-normal reliability and engine lifetime. Assuming you don't put pistons through walls.

If you DO install a turbocharger on it now, I would recommend getting an aftermarket ECU (like a Hondata unit) rather then a piggyback unit. It's easier to deal with in the long run, and allows you to just reprogram the box as you change things, rather then having to get different piggyback boxes or messing with other ECU issues. Same if you do an engine swap- your replacement engine won't come with an ECU anyways, so you might as well get a decent reprogrammable unit.

The car accelerates slowly because it is an econobox- plain and simple. That transmission was for old Mrs. Jenkins to drive to the supermarket in, or Miss Pam the new teacher to drive to work. It allows the car to drive smoothly, and easily and be the best balance between economy and reliability. It's not made for sporty driving at all.


Any input is appreciated......

Okay.

Suggestion time: You want to do sporty driving in your car, but still use it for regular day-to-day driving; so it has to be reliable but perform well. Find a wrecked 96 civic CX/DX/EX with a good transmission and passanger compartment in it (should be everywhere, they all seem to die from front-end damage) and swipe the transmission, clutch pedal and master cylinder, center console, and all assorted rigging. Gauge cluster too, if you can get it. Swap them into your car, after you've had the tranny inspected and a new clutch pad and pressure plate and slave cylinder installed (might as well, while you're in there). Now you have the sportier manual.

Keep the same engine you have- it's not a bad one. Get a bolt-in supercharger kit. There are a few available on the market that give you everything you need, and they have a few advantages over turbochargers at low pressure. Under 6psi turbochargers don't have much performance benifit over superchargers, and the supercharger has a few key benifits. At low RPMs the supercharger is still helping you out, giving you extra torque at the low end where Honda engines lack. They also have a very linear power delivery, giving you better fine control over your ability to put power to the ground.

As an added bonus, you don't have to cut or drill to install an intercooler. Buy a pizza and celebrate!

Now, spend some of the thousands of dollars you just saved over an engine swap to put some good quality suspension bits on (i'd suggest a front strut-tower brace that ties into the firewall, good-quality adjustable coilovers, and polyeurithane or OEM-replacment rubber on the suspension bottom-end). You're making extra power, giving your car the ability to stick to the ground will help you apply those extra ponies and, more importantly, bring your newly-beefed up Honda the ability to STOP better (something often overlooked, unfortunately). On that note, cross-drilled or slotted discs in the front, higher-quality pads front and rear, and steel-reinforced break lines to everywhere are good ways to help you haul down from higher speeds and extended use.


it's only my :2cents:, but it's :2cents: that have spent a lot of money on this crap. up to you. Just make sure you do what you want to do because you want to build that kind of car, and not because you think it'll make you cool. Having a well-built sport/street car is cool. having a track car you drive on the street is a trip to the chairopractor. Your call.

Cheers, lad.

Geeko
06-13-2006, 03:29 AM
Oi, I've just realized that what I wrote above was really, really... wordy. Oh well, it's worth a read-through. Or not.


Up to you, really.

tkrueger06
06-13-2006, 12:49 PM
ok i have come to terms with the difference in costs and i have realized that it will prolly be cheaper to just buy and si. i have actually found a 99 civic si with red paint, white rims, tint, and an aftermarket exhaust. oh and 80,000 miles. do you guys think its worth $9,500? plus si's are manual, so there goes 1k to 2k of converting. it has 160 hp, so there goes the engine swap 2k-3k. Exhaust and header is fine, so there is another $800 off. basically im saving lots of money

Geeko
06-14-2006, 11:05 PM
The Kelly Blue Book for that car, milage, and zip code runs from $7,700 to $9,200 for private seller. KBB is usually a high-water mark for what you want to pay for a car.

One of the best guides I've found for buying a used vehicle that has been modded (incidentally a guide for buying a used motorcycle) is this: If you WANT the modification that has been done to the vehicle, then then include part of it's value into what you are willing to pay for the car. If you DON'T want the modification, don't include the value, as it's something that you would have not otherwise done to the car.

So if you like the aftermarket exhaust that's on the car, and the white rims... and the car is in premium condition... yeah, it might be worth $9,500.

-however-

I would, before I put any money on it, take it to a mechanic that you trust, and have him take a good look at it for you. Even if it costs you some- say, $30-50 for a thorough going-over, it can save you scads of grief in the long run. Compression testing, checking plugs, chassis deterioration, suspension flex, rust, evidence of flooding or repaired damage from wrecks... these are all things worth knowing- even if they don't make the car unwanted to you. A decent Honda tech will even be able to plug into the OBD-II diagnostic port on the car, which'll give him lots of data on how the car is running, internally.


I, personally, wouldn't give more then maybe $7,500 for that car, unless it was in showroom-new condition. Make the seller deal- I can almost guarantee you he'll come down some if you show cash. But it's up to you.

Ciao!

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