Need some help with Acu Stion chain set..
mickbench
06-10-2006, 04:42 PM
If anyone has ever assembled an Acu Stion link by link 1/12 chain, then please, let me know how you did it.
I’ve spent the last two hours, and I’ve not got a single link assembled. The idea is to cut a 1.2 m thin brass rod, and then cut a 1 m brass tube, and put the rod through the tube, but unless I can shrink myself to handle the small parts, this isn’t going to happen for me. Unless there is a trick, and I’ve missed it. Ive already bent nearly all the brass rods supplied, lost five links, and lost my temper. It's too small to handle, even with tweezers, I cannot grip the parts.. I think I've taken on something here, that my hands cannot handle. Ideas bigger then my skill sets, as always...
I’m very close to quitting on this.. Sod the £20 it cost to have a go, it’s almost the work of the devil to assemble..
Many thanks..
I’ve spent the last two hours, and I’ve not got a single link assembled. The idea is to cut a 1.2 m thin brass rod, and then cut a 1 m brass tube, and put the rod through the tube, but unless I can shrink myself to handle the small parts, this isn’t going to happen for me. Unless there is a trick, and I’ve missed it. Ive already bent nearly all the brass rods supplied, lost five links, and lost my temper. It's too small to handle, even with tweezers, I cannot grip the parts.. I think I've taken on something here, that my hands cannot handle. Ideas bigger then my skill sets, as always...
I’m very close to quitting on this.. Sod the £20 it cost to have a go, it’s almost the work of the devil to assemble..
Many thanks..
M1CRO
06-10-2006, 05:42 PM
sry to hear that mickbench, was looking forward to seeing your chain completed...Hope someone brings a solution so we can see it completed.
M1CRO.
M1CRO.
mickbench
06-10-2006, 05:53 PM
Yep,
I'll give it a week or so, if I don't find a way to build this, then it's back to the kit chain. I'm always willing to try, but yet another part of model building alludes me.
Mind you, the Acu Stion instruction sheet is almost bog roll... (Meaning, you'd be better off wiping your ass with it) as there is nothing on it that helps. I only got the measurements, as it was the only part I could understand, but even if you speak Japanese, then it's still worthless..
I'm sure it can be made, but what I need is a shrinking or enlarging ray gun. Because without this, then I've not got the faintest idea how you're meant to build this. It's too small to handle.
I'll give it a week or so, if I don't find a way to build this, then it's back to the kit chain. I'm always willing to try, but yet another part of model building alludes me.
Mind you, the Acu Stion instruction sheet is almost bog roll... (Meaning, you'd be better off wiping your ass with it) as there is nothing on it that helps. I only got the measurements, as it was the only part I could understand, but even if you speak Japanese, then it's still worthless..
I'm sure it can be made, but what I need is a shrinking or enlarging ray gun. Because without this, then I've not got the faintest idea how you're meant to build this. It's too small to handle.
mickbench
06-10-2006, 08:52 PM
Right,
I’ve worked out a trick, but its hard. I can get the links joined by pushing the brass rod though with the link still attached to the P/E fret, and I then push the brass tube over the rod, and cut. But I need to this do for like 150 odd cuts.. No joking, and getting 150 cuts for the tube at dead 1m is beyond human I feel.
I need to make some type of jig, or template. But, darned if I can work this out… I’ve spent hours tonight trying to work this out, I feel this is “PRO” P/E work, but is there no tool or anyone who’s built something to help cut dead on 1m for the center tube?
The rod is OK, as I can just nip this off and I’ve noticed that nipping it off flares the end, and this holds the link, so no gluing required, this can be built without glue if done right.
Also, due to messing about, I think I’ve buggered a few to many links, dunno, but I had a few flinging around the room, plus I’ve been messing about with the brass rod.
Hmm… Darn my “always” wanting to try new stuff out.. LOL
I’ve worked out a trick, but its hard. I can get the links joined by pushing the brass rod though with the link still attached to the P/E fret, and I then push the brass tube over the rod, and cut. But I need to this do for like 150 odd cuts.. No joking, and getting 150 cuts for the tube at dead 1m is beyond human I feel.
I need to make some type of jig, or template. But, darned if I can work this out… I’ve spent hours tonight trying to work this out, I feel this is “PRO” P/E work, but is there no tool or anyone who’s built something to help cut dead on 1m for the center tube?
The rod is OK, as I can just nip this off and I’ve noticed that nipping it off flares the end, and this holds the link, so no gluing required, this can be built without glue if done right.
Also, due to messing about, I think I’ve buggered a few to many links, dunno, but I had a few flinging around the room, plus I’ve been messing about with the brass rod.
Hmm… Darn my “always” wanting to try new stuff out.. LOL
willimo
06-10-2006, 09:39 PM
Try sliding the tube over the rod. Then, with the rod there to catch the pieces you cut from the tube, use your x-acto blade to cut the tube by rolling it back and forth under your knife; it will be the same effect as the tube cutter plumbers use that goes 'round and 'round. Cut like 10-15 at a time like this. Once cut, place them on a piece of sticky tape not to lose them.
When it comes time to assemble the bits of tube, the bits of rod, and the bits of chain, cut the rod to lengths longer than you need, like 5mm for each joint. You can always go get more rod (wire) from your LHS or home supply store. Assemble 9-14 links at a time like this, and once the links are together, snip the extra 2-3mm of rod from either side of the chain off, the smashing of the shears (whatever you use to snip the rod) will flare the rod enough to keep it from coming undone.
Then don't do anymore chain for the night. Chat up pretty girls instead. Then the next evening, refreshed, repeat.
I went looking for a how to that is pretty much that method, and can you beleive it? It's in your last thread about this! OMGWTFBBQ! (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=572356&highlight=chain)
(Also, you mean "eludes," not "alludes.")
When it comes time to assemble the bits of tube, the bits of rod, and the bits of chain, cut the rod to lengths longer than you need, like 5mm for each joint. You can always go get more rod (wire) from your LHS or home supply store. Assemble 9-14 links at a time like this, and once the links are together, snip the extra 2-3mm of rod from either side of the chain off, the smashing of the shears (whatever you use to snip the rod) will flare the rod enough to keep it from coming undone.
Then don't do anymore chain for the night. Chat up pretty girls instead. Then the next evening, refreshed, repeat.
I went looking for a how to that is pretty much that method, and can you beleive it? It's in your last thread about this! OMGWTFBBQ! (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=572356&highlight=chain)
(Also, you mean "eludes," not "alludes.")
mickbench
06-10-2006, 10:04 PM
Then don't do anymore chain for the night. Chat up pretty girls instead. Then the next evening, refreshed, repeat. I went looking for a how to that is pretty much that method, and can you beleive it? It's in your last thread about this! OMGWTFBBQ! (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=572356&highlight=chain)
(Also, you mean "eludes," not "alludes.")
:uhoh: Oops. Yep, I meant that as well.... And I did read what was posted in that thread, but somehow it didn't sink in. Put it down to "I hope there is an easy way to do this..." :rolleyes: Guess lazyness isn't part of model building, but if you want full detail you need to spend the time... I'll perhaps get it in the end, I tend to "go off on one" and then it all comes good in the end...
Thanks....
(Also, you mean "eludes," not "alludes.")
:uhoh: Oops. Yep, I meant that as well.... And I did read what was posted in that thread, but somehow it didn't sink in. Put it down to "I hope there is an easy way to do this..." :rolleyes: Guess lazyness isn't part of model building, but if you want full detail you need to spend the time... I'll perhaps get it in the end, I tend to "go off on one" and then it all comes good in the end...
Thanks....
BugZilla
06-10-2006, 10:58 PM
I had thought about it once, until I heard the stories of other peoples attempts. Then I never even opened the package.
I can say it is similar to the Cosmos Factory chain, assembly wise, but CF layed it out in a better manner. In CF's case, you would lay all of the pe sheets on top of one another, slip the pin, or wire through the hole, cut and move onto the next one. Not to say that it is actually that easy all the time, but it goes together in a better fashion. Once all of the pins were in, cut the finished chain off of the frame and file the little nibs down. The last CF chain I did for a friend took me about 3 1/2 to 4 hours, including coffee and potty breaks.
Unfortunately, Acustion didn't see it this way and just made some links, threw in some wire and tube and said " Let them figure it out ". I've never really been to fond of their products, or pricing.
A friend of mine has done some drawings for a 1/12th chain set that would be just, if not easier than the CF chain. The problem is finding someone to do it at a reasonable cost. Maybe we will have some luck soon.
I can tell by your frustration that you are on the right track, but there is really no simple way.
Dave
I can say it is similar to the Cosmos Factory chain, assembly wise, but CF layed it out in a better manner. In CF's case, you would lay all of the pe sheets on top of one another, slip the pin, or wire through the hole, cut and move onto the next one. Not to say that it is actually that easy all the time, but it goes together in a better fashion. Once all of the pins were in, cut the finished chain off of the frame and file the little nibs down. The last CF chain I did for a friend took me about 3 1/2 to 4 hours, including coffee and potty breaks.
Unfortunately, Acustion didn't see it this way and just made some links, threw in some wire and tube and said " Let them figure it out ". I've never really been to fond of their products, or pricing.
A friend of mine has done some drawings for a 1/12th chain set that would be just, if not easier than the CF chain. The problem is finding someone to do it at a reasonable cost. Maybe we will have some luck soon.
I can tell by your frustration that you are on the right track, but there is really no simple way.
Dave
blubaja
06-10-2006, 11:16 PM
...Sod the £20 it cost to have a go, it’s almost the work of the devil to assemble..
Sod?
http://www.karwo.com.hk/New/New%20Grass.JPG
Sod?
http://www.karwo.com.hk/New/New%20Grass.JPG
klutz_100
06-10-2006, 11:41 PM
I'm just guessing here, but I imagine that consistency in cutting the lengths of rod is going to be pretty critical here and tolerance levels (the chain's as well as yours ;) ) are going to be pretty low otherwise the chain will end up as 2 wavy(?) lines when viewed from above.
If I were doing this I would definitely be looking or a simple method to "mass produce" these parts with some kind of template/jig.
My first approach to this would be to take some styrene square or oblong rod and make a channel in it exactly as wide as the you need the lengths of rod (1mm?). To this dimension I would also add the appropriate ammount to allow for the width of my cutting tool (I would try to use PE saw which should be able to cope with soft brass).
With the channel cut (creating a sort of U-shaped girder, if you can picture that) I would then ccut a gate in one of the sides to allow the brass rod to slide through and butt-up against the opposite wall. Now you could trim to size with the PE saw and each time the lengths should be the same.
It would probably take several attempts to get the channel "just right" but once done you should be good to go.
A variation would be to lay the brass rod in the channel length wise butted up against a closed off end and make slots for your saw at 90degrees 1mm along the channel - imagine how a mitre box works and that is what I have in mind..
Hope this might be of some help or at least start a thought process to help you find some other better and easier solution.
I DEFINITELY AGREE with the advice above that it would be wise to do this chain in stages.
If I were doing this I would definitely be looking or a simple method to "mass produce" these parts with some kind of template/jig.
My first approach to this would be to take some styrene square or oblong rod and make a channel in it exactly as wide as the you need the lengths of rod (1mm?). To this dimension I would also add the appropriate ammount to allow for the width of my cutting tool (I would try to use PE saw which should be able to cope with soft brass).
With the channel cut (creating a sort of U-shaped girder, if you can picture that) I would then ccut a gate in one of the sides to allow the brass rod to slide through and butt-up against the opposite wall. Now you could trim to size with the PE saw and each time the lengths should be the same.
It would probably take several attempts to get the channel "just right" but once done you should be good to go.
A variation would be to lay the brass rod in the channel length wise butted up against a closed off end and make slots for your saw at 90degrees 1mm along the channel - imagine how a mitre box works and that is what I have in mind..
Hope this might be of some help or at least start a thought process to help you find some other better and easier solution.
I DEFINITELY AGREE with the advice above that it would be wise to do this chain in stages.
willimo
06-10-2006, 11:42 PM
Are the holes in the links the same distance apart as the holes are from link to link? In the following picture, does measurement A equal measurement B?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/willimo/yyzfr1tgc_bigcopy.jpg
Because if they do, you could use this method. (http://www.cosmos-factory.com/shop/Drive_part/ch/ch2.html) Perhaps? Maybe? If you're cutting each link off the fret individually, and hoping for the best, well frankly... wow.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v417/willimo/yyzfr1tgc_bigcopy.jpg
Because if they do, you could use this method. (http://www.cosmos-factory.com/shop/Drive_part/ch/ch2.html) Perhaps? Maybe? If you're cutting each link off the fret individually, and hoping for the best, well frankly... wow.
klutz_100
06-10-2006, 11:53 PM
@ Frank X: LOL! did you lose a small part in you garden? ;)
I think you'll find that "sod" as a verb in English is short for "sodomise".
The rest of the English speaking world would say "screw that" :D
I think you'll find that "sod" as a verb in English is short for "sodomise".
The rest of the English speaking world would say "screw that" :D
Hiroboy
06-11-2006, 02:15 AM
OT I know but.......
The word sod in British English is a mildly offensive term for a person. Although it can be used in many situations, it has particular connotations of idleness - e.g. "you lazy sod" - or dirtiness. Like many such mild insults, it can also be used affectionately between friends - "how are you, you old sod?". It originates from "sodomy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodomy)", but does not significantly retain that meaning. Like the word f**K (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuck), it can be used as many different parts of speech (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Part_of_speech) - e.g. "sod off!" and "sodding bastard". This meaning may have been invented in the book A Clockwork Orange (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Clockwork_Orange).
"sod it" (including its variant, "oh sod it") is a quaint English expression which denotes a total abrogation of responsibility for a situation
The word sod in British English is a mildly offensive term for a person. Although it can be used in many situations, it has particular connotations of idleness - e.g. "you lazy sod" - or dirtiness. Like many such mild insults, it can also be used affectionately between friends - "how are you, you old sod?". It originates from "sodomy (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodomy)", but does not significantly retain that meaning. Like the word f**K (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuck), it can be used as many different parts of speech (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Part_of_speech) - e.g. "sod off!" and "sodding bastard". This meaning may have been invented in the book A Clockwork Orange (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/A_Clockwork_Orange).
"sod it" (including its variant, "oh sod it") is a quaint English expression which denotes a total abrogation of responsibility for a situation
M1CRO
06-11-2006, 08:36 AM
Someone just ate a dictionary for their breakfast...!!!
M1CRO.
M1CRO.
mickbench
06-11-2006, 11:05 AM
Thanks for all the ideas... I've not tried them all yet, but I did try the idea of rolling my knife over the tube, and I ended up crushing it, so too much pressure I guess...
i've got a gut feeling, and this isn't decided yet, but I think this might be yet another aftermarket upgrade I'd perhaps be better off not using. My tolerance levels are not high enough for something as frustrating as this.... Perhaps I'm in the wrong hobby. :frown:
Anyhow, i've put it to one side at the moment, and I'll think about getting some P/E saws, but this is another acu stion product I think is pretty crappy... I'm starting to get the idea that acu stion products are a litle pricey for what they are.. although, if this chain could be built, I'm sure it'll look nice.
Willimo, I've already had a go with pushing the rod through with the parts still on the fret, but its not that easy... In fact its REALLY REALLY hard..
i've got a gut feeling, and this isn't decided yet, but I think this might be yet another aftermarket upgrade I'd perhaps be better off not using. My tolerance levels are not high enough for something as frustrating as this.... Perhaps I'm in the wrong hobby. :frown:
Anyhow, i've put it to one side at the moment, and I'll think about getting some P/E saws, but this is another acu stion product I think is pretty crappy... I'm starting to get the idea that acu stion products are a litle pricey for what they are.. although, if this chain could be built, I'm sure it'll look nice.
Willimo, I've already had a go with pushing the rod through with the parts still on the fret, but its not that easy... In fact its REALLY REALLY hard..
hirofkd
06-11-2006, 06:25 PM
I guess the hardest part is to make equal-length rollers out of brass pipes?
How about making a simple jig like this?
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~xr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm (http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/%7Exr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm)
How about making a simple jig like this?
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~xr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm (http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/%7Exr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm)
mickbench
06-11-2006, 07:41 PM
I guess the hardest part is to make equal-length rollers out of brass pipes?
How about making a simple jig like this?
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~xr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm (http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/%7Exr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm)
Ah..!! It can be built then. :lol: I'd already given up on this, and I'm reverting back to the kit part... But what he's done makes sense. I'd like to know how he held all the parts during assembly, as it's so small, it's really hard to handle.
4 days to build though... Heart sinks reading that. But thanks for the link. If anyone from the UK is reading this, and sells brass rod, tubing, PM me, or knows where I can buy something... I've a feeling if I do continue with this, I need some more tubing and rod... I "might" need a few practice runs.
Thanks for that.. It's renewed interest..
How about making a simple jig like this?
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~xr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm (http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/%7Exr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm)
Ah..!! It can be built then. :lol: I'd already given up on this, and I'm reverting back to the kit part... But what he's done makes sense. I'd like to know how he held all the parts during assembly, as it's so small, it's really hard to handle.
4 days to build though... Heart sinks reading that. But thanks for the link. If anyone from the UK is reading this, and sells brass rod, tubing, PM me, or knows where I can buy something... I've a feeling if I do continue with this, I need some more tubing and rod... I "might" need a few practice runs.
Thanks for that.. It's renewed interest..
drunken monkey
06-11-2006, 07:50 PM
if you're in london, have a look in the 4D modelling shop (aldgate east station).
it's where i get all of the gear for my architectural stuff and they sell all sorts of wire and mesh.
it's where i get all of the gear for my architectural stuff and they sell all sorts of wire and mesh.
klutz_100
06-11-2006, 11:55 PM
I guess the hardest part is to make equal-length rollers out of brass pipes?
How about making a simple jig like this?
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~xr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm ("http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/%7Exr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm")
Hiroaki, you do it again! :D
What a great and elegant solution! Simple - as a good idea should be.
It's nice to know I was kind of going in a good direction with my thinking but I would never have come up with that. As usual, I over complicated things :) but I will remember that idea because I am sure it can be re-applied to other situations.
Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:
Mick, since you are not in London FYI 4D have a great website with ooooodles of stuff you can order on-line.
How about making a simple jig like this?
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~xr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm ("http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/%7Exr2h-fkd/scalemodels/project/moulton/prog/pylprog04.htm")
Hiroaki, you do it again! :D
What a great and elegant solution! Simple - as a good idea should be.
It's nice to know I was kind of going in a good direction with my thinking but I would never have come up with that. As usual, I over complicated things :) but I will remember that idea because I am sure it can be re-applied to other situations.
Thanks for sharing :thumbsup:
Mick, since you are not in London FYI 4D have a great website with ooooodles of stuff you can order on-line.
mickbench
06-12-2006, 04:39 AM
If anyone knows the measurements used for the brass rod, and tubing, then please post them up. I’ve tried to measure them using a ruler, but it’s really hard, and to get it more accurate I need a digital calliper, something I do not have.
As I’m going to have to mail order spare rod and tubing, I need the measurements, as without them, I’ll stand no chance of getting rod /tube that fits. I can find styrene sheet, I could even use a sheet of 1mm plywood if I have to, as this will make a good jig, it’s the brass rod, and tubing that I can’t buy locally.
Thanks…
As I’m going to have to mail order spare rod and tubing, I need the measurements, as without them, I’ll stand no chance of getting rod /tube that fits. I can find styrene sheet, I could even use a sheet of 1mm plywood if I have to, as this will make a good jig, it’s the brass rod, and tubing that I can’t buy locally.
Thanks…
klutz_100
06-13-2006, 12:03 AM
I need a digital calliper, something I do not have.
Mick, get yourself some of these - unless you give up modelling, you'll use them more and more.
Given the amount of money you/we throw at this hobby anyway, the cost of a pair of callipers is just a drop in the ocean. I actually prefer the dial variety. I don't know why but I just "feel" that they will be more accurate in the long run. Mine cost 20euro and came with a nice box.
Having the right tools won't do the job for you, but they sure help make it easier.
Mick, get yourself some of these - unless you give up modelling, you'll use them more and more.
Given the amount of money you/we throw at this hobby anyway, the cost of a pair of callipers is just a drop in the ocean. I actually prefer the dial variety. I don't know why but I just "feel" that they will be more accurate in the long run. Mine cost 20euro and came with a nice box.
Having the right tools won't do the job for you, but they sure help make it easier.
cyberkid
06-13-2006, 07:12 AM
Having the right tools won't do the job for you, but they sure help make it easier.
How True~~! Frankly, if its out there and you can afford it, and it will make ur work easier, what are you waitin for?!?!:grinno:
How True~~! Frankly, if its out there and you can afford it, and it will make ur work easier, what are you waitin for?!?!:grinno:
mickbench
06-13-2006, 07:20 AM
How True~~! Frankly, if its out there and you can afford it, and it will make ur work easier, what are you waitin for?!?!:grinno:
Hmm... Funds are now running low. Spent too much this month on a Resin kit, so I'll have to get a digital calliper next month, with a new hobby budget... i'm spending too much money lately..
Hmm... Funds are now running low. Spent too much this month on a Resin kit, so I'll have to get a digital calliper next month, with a new hobby budget... i'm spending too much money lately..
MPWR
06-13-2006, 05:32 PM
Yeah, definately get the digital calipers. I expect that if you look, you can probably find them for 15-20 quid.
As for the chain, I have nothing useful to add save for this- man am I glad that the only 1/12 bike in my stash is a shaft drive BMW! Now, how to do those wire spoked wheels....?
As for the chain, I have nothing useful to add save for this- man am I glad that the only 1/12 bike in my stash is a shaft drive BMW! Now, how to do those wire spoked wheels....?
cyberkid
06-13-2006, 07:30 PM
Hmm... Funds are now running low. Spent too much this month on a Resin kit, so I'll have to get a digital calliper next month, with a new hobby budget... i'm spending too much money lately..
Tell me about it:banghead: . I'm looking for a good digital one right now.. and the cheapest I've found so far will cost me over 50$ US. Well I'm not givin up!!:nono: I'll keep looking until I can find one that is below 30$:lol: .
Eh, talk about budgets.. I'm spending around 10% of my paycheck on modeling every month :rolleyes:
Tell me about it:banghead: . I'm looking for a good digital one right now.. and the cheapest I've found so far will cost me over 50$ US. Well I'm not givin up!!:nono: I'll keep looking until I can find one that is below 30$:lol: .
Eh, talk about budgets.. I'm spending around 10% of my paycheck on modeling every month :rolleyes:
g00eY
06-13-2006, 08:34 PM
lol that looks like fun :uhoh: !
MPWR
06-13-2006, 09:19 PM
and the cheapest I've found so far will cost me over 50$ US. Well I'm not givin up!!:nono: I'll keep looking until I can find one that is below 30$:lol: .
$50 USD? You should definately be able to do better than that! You're right across the water from the great land of the cheap digital calipers, right? Here's one for $16 USD (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257) ('course, I don't know what international shipping would be...).
$50 USD? You should definately be able to do better than that! You're right across the water from the great land of the cheap digital calipers, right? Here's one for $16 USD (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47257) ('course, I don't know what international shipping would be...).
willimo
06-13-2006, 10:30 PM
Digital is not > dial. Not $30 greater, anyway. I find that people get something in their heads and then it's impossible to get it out. So let me try anyway: It is not necessary to spend crazy dollars on a digital caliper. A dial caliper works just as well, and will make you better at the maths.
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