2000 Grand Prix hesitation problem

I've got a 2000 Grand Prix with 128,000 miles on it. I'm currently having a hesistation problem during accelerations...I believe it may be the torque converter. When I tap the brakes during the hesitation, the problem goes away. No fault codes come up. I've been told to disable the TCC, but don't know how or if this will damage the tranny. Any thoughts/help would be appreciated.

Your trans is all electronic, so you cannot just unplug the TCC harness like in the old days. What conditions are present when the hesitation occurs (speed, load, car warmed up or cold, check engine light on, etc...)?

What happens if you put the transmission in 2nd?

This is the same problem I've had with my 99gt for a long time and was told it was the MAF sensor I've had my tranny checked out and it was fine, no codes.
I haven't changed the sensor yet so I don't know for sure if thats the cure,but it is a periodic problem with mine and doesn't happen when just crusing.

The problem happens cold or hot. Check engine light never comes on. Seems to always be during acceleration anywhere from 25-45MPH. It still happens if I shift out of overdrive as well.

The problem happens cold or hot. Check engine light never comes on. Seems to always be during acceleration anywhere from 25-45MPH. It still happens if I shift out of overdrive as well.

Thats the same as mine,it does it going up hills as well.

What is the mileage on tune-up parts, fuel filter, etc...? It sounds like your issue is only when the car is under a load, and worn plugs, wires, etc... will cause what you're describing. If you've recently tuned it up, what brand of parts did you use?

Tune up?
Just kidding. I just finished doing all the fluids on mine 210,000km tanny,rad the whole works I do need a tune up though but I was going to wait a couple of months and do it before it goes for an emission test just to make sure it passes or they won't give new tags.
It will be interesting to see if it goes away, other than that it runs like champ no missing idles smooth.
Do you not think it could be MAF?

Also OT: I wanted to put some colored ignition wires on to make it look pretty is that a good idea or should I stick with the stock stuff?

Also OT: I wanted to put some colored ignition wires on to make it look pretty is that a good idea or should I stick with the stock stuff?

Why not. Everybody and their brother does it. You don't have the use the stock wires. Taylor 8mm Spiro Pro wires work good and are very pretty. Plus a reasonable cost even compared to the AC Delcos. I've got pretty red MSD wires. :grinyes:

Why not. Everybody and their brother does it. You don't have the use the stock wires. Taylor 8mm Spiro Pro wires work good and are very pretty. Plus a reasonable cost even compared to the AC Delcos. I've got pretty red MSD wires. :grinyes:

Those are the ones I was looking at only I want the blue ones to match my eyes.

Those are the ones I was looking at only I want the blue ones to match my eyes.

What a match! Go for it. Man, Wylie you must have driven all the Senoritas wild when you visited San Antonio with those pretty blue eyes. :wink:

Theres was a couple,the one bar was pretty wild,cage dancing and everything one honey was trying to drag me in the cage with her.
The way I feel today the red ones would probably be more of a match the weather has been so nice here after the winter you tend to not want to go in the house at night.

I had the dealer perform a 100K tuneup: Changed tranny fluid, new plugs, "cleaned" injectors, etc. If I remember correctly, they didn't change the wires. A friend had a similar problem with wires on a 3800, but it started hunting while in park or neutral. Mine won't do that..got to be in drive. Cleaning the MAF sensor has been offered? Is this possible?

I have the same problem with my 1998 gran prix 3800 engine. I have changed sparkplugs wires, and checked the maf but I was wondering as to a tranny prob. I wondered about the tranny because sometimes I get a clunk when I let off the gas going up a hill, but 25 - 40 mph slight grade with the engine at about 1500 rpm I get shaking hesitation. The tranny was just serviced. I did not have this problem before that. Actually I had a hose bust and had tranny fluid everywhere underneath. There is no hesitation from a hard take off or in passing gear. I am about ready to take it to a tranny shop, but I do not hear any noises. Tranny fluid not burnt, low , or high.

Had the same issues in a 2000 GT around 95K miles. I had both the hesitation and the clunk. The clunk would come and go, but the hesitation had become consistent. I would describe it as a "chuggle". It would happen when the trans was shifting to OD. I could watch the tach needle wobble. It was like it couldn't decide which gear to be in. When I started to get the clunk I decided enough was enough. I changed the plugs and wires, no better. Changed the sensor that tells it when to shift, though I can't recall what it's called..Throttle something or other. Didn't help. even bought the stupid torque bits to do it.

Finally took it to the dealer. They changed the TCC solenoid, and since it's right next to it, the Pressure Control Solenoid (Or something tlike that) too. They then called and said it was "better" but not entirely gone. I never drove it in this state, so I don't know. They then wanted to keep it one more night. They disconnected the battery and let it sit 24 hrs. They said there was a GM bulletin that this would cause everything to reset to factory defaults, meaning the new TCC and PCS.

I don't know if it would help or not, but I would suggest just disconnecting the battery for 24 hrs and see if that helps. It may not, but it won't cost you $900 either. I got the feeling (but had no proof) that they found this trick after they'd done the work and it had little or no effect on the problem.

BTW, it runs great now.

It appears that I am having this exact problem. Has anyone found a solution to the hesitation issue?

Thanks for the advice 'lizard. I ended up unplugging the battery for a night and the problem has gone away. I have a hard time believing it won't come back, but it's been a week now and it's definitely gone. Like a computer reboot I guess. I let you know when/if it comes back.

Ya Mellenchach: let us know if it comes back,mines been like this for about three years now and if thats all it takes to correct it, it would be great.

Ya Mellenchach: let us know if it comes back,mines been like this for about three years now and if thats all it takes to correct it, it would be great.

Three years Wylie? BTW - You can try it but don't hold your breath.

Normally, disconnecting the battery positive or negative cable even overnight doesn't do anything. Sounds like a fluke to me. It might have reset some stored DTC error codes that do not trigger the SES light but may have caused a lean trim to the fuel injection system. It may clear old misfire code history which can also do weird things.

Also, when a PCS or any valve body work is done the shop is supposed to reset the PCM with a Tech II to force the PCM into relearn mode and clear the Adaptive Shift Points. Then the PCM will relearn engine parameters and driving conditions to incude when the tranny will shift and how it shifts.

However, it won't hurt to try it.

Maybe three years,how long have I been hanging out here?
This was the problem that lead me to this happy house.
The thing about it is its not something that happens all the time and usually its going up hill or getting on the highway and if you give it a little extra throttle its gone until next time and sometimes it doesn't happen at all.
I think it was you that told me it might be the MAF sensor.

I don't want to disconnect the bat unless I'm sure or else I have to figure out the code for the radio.
Any how have a good weekend Bud :D

Wylie, if the little amber light on the front of the radio isn't on (indicating the theftlock has been enabled), you have nothing to worry about. The radio will only lock if you (or a previous owner) had entered a code and enabled that feature in the first place.

It's been a couple weeks now and the problem hasn't come back...probably put another 600 miles on it. I'll come back to this post if it comes back.

amazing, I'm going to try it.

I don't know if it would help or not, but I would suggest just disconnecting the battery for 24 hrs and see if that helps. It may not, but it won't cost you $900 either. I got the feeling (but had no proof) that they found this trick after they'd done the work and it had little or no effect on the problem.

BTW, it runs great now.

Well I thought I'd post back and I don't beleive it but it work.
I had some A/C work done and they disconected the battery.
Hesitaion problem gone :D
Also the tranny was shifting hard every once in a while and that apears to be gone as well :D
All the time and money I've spent trying to figure this out to think it would have been something so simple as discontecting the battery is beyond me.
Thank you,Thank you very much.

SONOFAB!7#@!

OK, somebody out here owes me a beer to offset my wasted $900 that I saved you! I guess that's what we're here for though...

NUTS!

Hey monkeylizard no problem let me know next time your in Toronto and I'll fix you up.
It still cost me $600 to get my A/C fixed.

I wonder if this is related. My car has 57,000 miles on it.

When completely cold, for the first few miles I will experience hesitation on initial acceleration. Normally you should begin accelerating when beginning to push on the accelerator. However, for the first 2-3 miles it usually takes to about 1500 RPM before the car moves.

Then the car runs fine as it should. As you all probably know, I had the PCS replaced in March and they said everything looked fine on inspection during the replacement.

I need to clean my MAF sensor but never get around to it.

Not sure,mine was more of a chugging during acceleration getting on the hwy or going up hills,it would go away if you gave it more throttle.
But like I said its totally gone now.

This topic and others on this site have been so helpful I wanted to post my experience resolving this problem.

My car was experiencing multiple problems including the hesitation problem discussed here. In researching these problems I read somewhere that this engine is prone to having the number 3 and number 5 fuel injectors fail. By "luck," at the time I was attempting to determine the cause of the hesitation problem my engine starting giving a code for a number 3 fuel injector failure. I replaced that fuel injector and, on cue, 2 weeks later the number 5 injector failed.

After both fuel injectors were replaced my transmission problem was slightly improved but still present. However, after then taking my car on a 400 mile highway trip (200 miles each way) the hesitation problem was GONE. My car drives like a dream now.

Based on these results I can only postulate that the hesition problem was due to the engine not providing sufficient power to the transmission for it to function correctly.

In addition to resolving the hesitation problem, replacing the fuel injectors has made my radio reception become crystal clear again. The failing/failed injectors had apparently been generating interference similar to what you get when your spark plug wires are old.