Reving engine

I drive with hand controls and at first I thought my hand controls were binding up. Now I have noticed when I drive my car around 20 miles or so and then shut it off and restart soon afterwards the rpm's go up to 3000 and the check engine soon light comes on. It will just keep reving. Then you have to shut it off and wait for awhile and it will start just fine. What is causing it and how expensive is it--now I have noticed it does it while I am driving but not for long. It is real intermittant in its behavior. Could I blow my engine it it does it long? When you have to go with it shortly afterwards is it harmful to the engine? At first I didn't notice why it felt like it jerked when you put it in gear. Will it show up on the computer it the light is not on? Thanks

Get the cel code a repost the info. Also what year car.

Get the cel code a repost the info. Also what year car. I don't know

Ok, first off go to an autozone and they should be able to pull the codes for you for free. Diagnostic codes are generally the best way to troubleshoot problems. However, without codes to go off of, it sounds like you have a bad throttle position sensor.

At 3000 rpms you shouldn't blow your engine, but it will more than likely eat gas and in general increase the wear and tear on the engine.

I don't knowwhat the cel code is. My car is a 1993 Buick Park Avenue. Also, my son slammed on the brakes for a deer and spun the car around in the road and this has been happening since then but don't know if it has anything to do with it. My usband died 5 years ago and I haven't had a mechanic that I can trust--you know, the dumb woman--and I pay for stuff that I don't know is right.

Maybe your son could check the codes. It is quite simple, just follow the instructions on this link; service engine soon (http://www.geocities.com/dann8785/serviceenginesoon.html)

Thanks--my son is back in New York--he was just home a short time. Does the throttle position sensor cost a lot and do the codes show even when there is no light on. The check engine soon light only is on for the brief period it is acting up. I have it in being checked but I don't want it coming back with the same problem--the mechanic telling me he can't find the problem because the light wasn't on.
Mechanics can tell me anything--one told me I needed struts--one told me I didn't. I thought I had a broken belt in my tire so I had them checked where I got the tires--they said there was a flat spot in one and it would round out--now I've been told by others I should have had the tire replaced--it won't round out. They told me maybe the rotors got warped when he slammed on the brakes and that's what you are feeling. I had just had the brakes done 5 months ago. Hand controls make everything feel different and its not like I can just hop in another car while I'm trying to find the problem, this is the only car I can drive. thanks for the repies.

Whenever the Check Engine light comes on, a "diagnostic trouble code" (DTC) is also recorded in the on-board computer's memory that corresponds to the fault. Some problems can generate more than one fault code, and some vehicles may suffer from multiple problems that also set multiple codes.

The PCM uses a "throttle position sensor" (TPS) to detect changes in the throttle opening, and an "airflow sensor" (hot wire or filament mass airflow sensor or a vane type airflow sensor) and/or a "manifold absolute pressure" (MAP) sensor to monitor changes in airflow and intake vacuum. The PCM then calculates how much fuel is needed to maintain the desired air/fuel mixture and increases the injector pulse width accordingly to supply the needed fuel.

As far as the tire flat spot goes, that is usually caused by the car being subjected to a total brake lockdown or sliding on one spot on the tires. That rarely happens on the cars with ABS because, the sensors detect total wheel stop while applying brakes, and the system will pulsate the brakes to allow the wheels to continue to turn. If the ABS system is working properly, you would never be able to slide the tires on one spot.

Finally, in regards to the various stories you get from different shops/mechanics; that could be simply due to the shops lack of diagnostic ability or lack of interest in doing the job, or it could be motivated by the possibility of monetary gain. Whatever the reason, it pays to get a second or third opinion!! After you get several opinions and are still not certain what to do, you can do as you did in this case, ask questions on this forum. The AF members have no other motivation other than the willingness to help other members.

Thank you so much for all the helpful information--I'm glad I found this site.
My ABS brake light has been on since shortly after I had the car, a mechanic checked it and said it would cost $600 to fix it and it was okay not to do anything with it. So that was another thing I should have probably taken care of. Actually, it took almost 2 years to get the hand controls working properly and around $2000 lf worthless fixing--we bought the car shortly before my husband died and he couldn't put them in and so frustrating because it was so unsafe for me to drive, my hand would be in the dash and I'd still be going when I was breaking and when accelerating my hand would be against the wheel and only going around 40 mph. Unreal. Thanks again.

The mechanic said I was low on freon in my air conditioner and he recharged that--I know having the air on will up the idle but could it make the rpm's go that high. I'm not sure I had even had it on when this problem started. It has been so intermittant like I said. He said he thinks that was the problem but my guts tell me you guys are right. I just can't see the air conditioner making it rev up that high and the only way I could make it stop is to shut it off and wait. Then it would be fine. He said to keep an eye on it, well, yes.
I still think I'm going to need my car fixed. Again.

The AC cycle would only increase/decrease the RPM about 300 not 3000! I got a suggestion; take the car to an Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts and tell them you think you may have a code 21 or 22 (TPS), and request that they check the codes. Either one should do it for free. If they tell you they can't read OBD1, ask them to do a demo (on your car) of one of their cheap "code readers" that will work on your car. All you need to read your codes would be a basic code reader with no display or other bells and whistles. You can read the code displayed on the dash of your car if you follow the instructions in the link provided above. (Post #6)