1/4 mile time

hey i would like to see some 1/4 mile time and speed if u all don't care. If u any idea on what i can do for cheap to help my 1/4 mile time let me know, b/c i may sell my Z if i don't get it runnin as fast as i want. Which would be better a LT4 kit or a 383 stroker Kit? just get back to me with sum ideas, and also will a k&n cold air induction kit help or is it just a waste?

huh? im lost

for cheap? get a mod chip, swap out your rear end for rear end posi...thats not exactly cheap if you get someone else to do it but you can find rear posi for 100 bucks on ebay, then do it yourself. not sure how cheap and quick you're talking but thats just a couple ideas. and if you were asking for 1/4 times from us, mine runs a 13.5

See i got enough money to do one of the kits (stroker or conversion) but not enough for both!! so i would like to know some OTHER cheap mods, i swear this isn't difficult to understand!! So here it is i would like to know which would be better for the 1/4 mile a stroker kit or a lt4 kit!!! and also if u guys know anythin else cheap like a few things for a couple hundred a piece that would be helpful. My budget is a little over 3000 and i already got eibach springs and a k&n cold air intake, and soon to be gettin 3.73 gears. so please just help me out, thanks

12.64 at 115.44

I'd go with the 383 stroker and just get a nasty cam. Make sure she breathes good though.

what are you running in the 1/4, hustler8225?

Stroker > lt4 conversion any day.

I'd go with the 383 stroker and just get a nasty cam. Make sure she breathes good though.

exactly. "there is no replacement for displacement." the choice is obvious. intake and exhaust = necessity.

exactly. "there is no replacement for displacement." the choice is obvious. intake and exhaust = necessity.

you forget about the magic called boost :lol:

And you are forgetting boosting a larger displacement motor. :wink:

ahhh that indeed is irreplaceable, BUT the question is what can replace displacement not what can replace displacement plus boost :p

well smartass :P ... if you would like to be technical:

boost actually creates the effect of having a larger displacment engine, as it allows the engine to burn a larger amount of fuel/air mix. boosting and increasing displacement have a nearly identical effect, so essentially we are talking about the same thing. and so to satisfy you, I say "there is no replacement for a larger density of air/fuel intake charge.

happy? lol.

I just want a forged 355 motor...something that will make about 300 to the wheels on its own....then.....spray the crap out of it.... :) 250 shot...hehehe

I just want a forged 355 motor...something that will make about 300 to the wheels on its own....then.....spray the crap out of it.... :) 250 shot...hehehe
thats my plans to for a new motor. I am going to do the same, but it will be a long ways away.

1993 Z-28 with 355 runs 13.25 @ 107

And I hope you know that if you are going to run a 250 shot of nos you are not going to get 250 Hp, I think it would be cheaper and smarter to just build the motor.

Why wouldn't a 250 shot make 250 horses??

Some of it depends on the compression. Mine would pick up 250 horses, if not more. A boosted car would see more than 250 horses with a 250 shot.

Of course, this also depends on the kit/jets.

Why wouldn't a 250 shot make 250 horses??

Some of it depends on the compression. Mine would pick up 250 horses, if not more. A boosted car would see more than 250 horses with a 250 shot.

Of course, this also depends on the kit/jets.

nitrous shots almost never give you the rated amount of horsepower. this is because of inefficiencies in the engine components. when you add nitrous (which is essentially more air) and more fuel to your engine, what you're actually doing is creating the effect of having a larger engine.

for example, a 2.2L engine burns approximately 2.0liters of air/fuel mix per cycle. Add a 100shot of nitrous, it now burns 3.0liters of air fuel mix. This is the same as having a 3.2L engine.

because you have essentially increased the size of your engine, your exhaust system suddenly becomes way too small to effectively rid the engine of the exhaust gases...creating significant back pressure. the lack of exhaust efficiency prevents nitrous from reaching its potential in any street car.

exhaust tuning, and nitrous cam profiles are the only way to make nitrous reach its full potential and/or go beyond the it's rated amount of horsepower increase.

the only engines that fully benefit from nitrous are drag-race nitrous motors. they create most of their power on the bottle and not very much power off the bottle. street cars are the opposite. it's impossible to get the best of both worlds with nitrous, unless you use a very small shot (which is pointless).

Mr. Luos, if you can get even 200hp or more from a 250shot on your engine, 1)your exhaust system is way too big for driving without the bottle or 2) you have a nitrous cam and it's significantly hurting your power when you're not on the bottle.

nitrous shots are rated on the amount of power they can potentially produce, whether or not your car can produce the max (or more) greatly varies with your setup.

*Back on topic*

383 kit if I were you

I ran a 13.9 bone stock, Full tank, poor track prep and stock tires with 20K miles on them (They needed replacing bad at the time).

Since then I have put on a FTRA, Cut out, New tires, LSS, Whisper Lid, and Sub frame connectors.. I'm hoping for 13.0's.. I just have to get a day off of work and school to hit the track again.

That is odd.
2001 Corvette Z06.

Dyno'd 348 RWHP stock.
Only mod. 150 shot.
Dyno'd 502 RWHP with the shot.
Seems like he has the 150 HP.

Like I said, it depends on the car. A slightly higher compression motor will take to the nitrous better than a lower compression motor. Which is why boosted cars see a lot of power from smaller shots. Plus the cooling effects nitrous has.

i was just clearing up your generalization when you said "a boosted car would see more than 250 horses with a 250 shot." because it's rarely true (on street cars) and it varies a lot by the particular setup.

and while compression makes a difference, the cam profiles and exhaust make more of a diff for nitrous. boosting a car has the exact same effect as adding nitrous. therefore most cars that come with turbos/superchargers already come with nitrous cam profiles and/or larger exhausts. and any good engine builder will use a nitrous/blower cam and larger exhaust if he knows it will use forced induction or nitrous. this accounts for why boosted cars see a different benefit from nitrous.

Cam profiles are different for blown/turbo/nitrous apps.

A good LS1 turbo cam = 225/225 581/581 113
A good LS1 blower cam = 224/232 581/595 114
A good LS1 nitrous cam = 224/227 563/569 114
The differences betweem the nitrous and blower cams is minimal.
But you are still looking for lower lift numbers on the nitrous cam.

I think we are saying basicly the same thing but different ways.
The cooling effects of nitrous help a decent amount with the boosted cars as well.

My cam (248/254 629/622 113) would be an okay nitrous or blower cam. Although I would probably get a new one if I added either. Lower that lift and reduce the overlap.

I do believe that my car would see 250+ RWHP with a 250 shot.
I will agree that many wouldn't.

my 305 TPI iroc ran a 15.3@88mph with a hypertech chip and a flowmaster catback. pretty decent if you ask me. i have since added edelbrock TES headers and y-pipe. i have a cutout. removed all the emmissions crap, pump, cat all the lines. new valve springs. and soon to change the rear end from a 273 open dif to a 342 posi. so that should help a good bit. im hoping to see mid 14"s with all that what do you guys think?

if you want better 1/4 mile times build the 383 and spray nos. by the way 11.12@130mph 8th mile 5.89@76mph. Thats without the bottle.

If its a daily driver do a 355 if not do a 383. I just dont know if I would trust a stoker motor to be reliable for everyday driving...

On the nitrous thing I think it has a lot to do with the way the intake charge flows into the cylinder and the mixing of the fuel and nitrous. Plus the actual dynamic compression. Thats a reason why nitrous is a great power adder for ls1 motors. Great heads and great intake manifolds. Anywho...id run a big 2 stage shot of nitrous....maybe one would be more fun....eh....then just run on n/a the rest of the time and enjoy the great mileage of a non stroker engine. :) But then this is me...I might end up buying a 355 but would probably end up selling it....thats what happened to the supercharger and ls1 ideas....

and my time was 14.3 on street tires. Ill be in the 13's somewhere if I had drags on it. My 60' sucks still...2.3...but I did drop it from the 14.7 i got last time with the same 60'...and i was even running a stock size spark plug wire instead of the 8.8mm which actually did cause a noticable drop in power. More that I wouldve though. To my understanding the track near my house is know to be a crappy track as far as getting anything to hook goes...

I just dont know if I would trust a stoker motor to be reliable for everyday driving..
Explain please.

personal whim I suppose.........im sure that there is absolutely nothing wrong with it. Aside from the bad gas mileage. Although if you get lingenfelters tune....what is it...a guaranteed 22mpg highway or better with their motors? Something like that. Dont listen to me....

hey i would like to see some 1/4 mile time and speed if u all don't care. If u any idea on what i can do for cheap to help my 1/4 mile time let me know, b/c i may sell my Z if i don't get it runnin as fast as i want. Which would be better a LT4 kit or a 383 stroker Kit? just get back to me with sum ideas, and also will a k&n cold air induction kit help or is it just a waste?

I'm running a newly rebuild LT1 w/ a mild cam, cat-back, and roller rocker arms....also, a home designed cold air intake, 3" tube, 6" cone filter sitting beneath the driver's side headlight...

13.86ET @ 99.39MPH

I'm running a newly rebuild LT1 w/ a mild cam, cat-back, and roller rocker arms....also, a home designed cold air intake, 3" tube, 6" cone filter sitting beneath the driver's side headlight...

13.86ET @ 99.39MPH
Get you some headers and get you heads worked man, i bet you would be almost in 12's