20g or t3/t4 ?

ok i am having difficulties finding out what turbo would be ideal with my mods, can somebody please help ?


Wiseco Stroker Pistons Eagle Rods With ARP Rod Bolts ARP Head Studs Cometic Head Gasket Ferrea Valvetrain .20 Bored 4g63 Block Shaved Head 4g64 Stroker Crankshaft Archer Racing 2 1/2" Downpipe AEM Fuel Pressure Regulator
B&M Short Shifter
Buschur Racing 2 1/2" Test Pipe
EVO III 16g Ported and Clipped Turbo
Buschur Racing Ported Exhaust Manifold
Buschur Racing Ported O2 Sensor Housing
XTD Stage 3 Clutch XTD Lightweight Flywheel Unorthodox Lightweight Underdrive Pulley
DSMLink Programmable ECU
Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts
GReddy Power Extreme Exhaust (with custom 4" square tip)
GReddy Upper IC Pipe
GReddy Front Mount Intercooler
GReddy Type-S Blow Off Valve
Magnecor Competition Ignition Cables
MSD DIS-2 Digital Ignition
NGK BPR7ES Spark Plugs (One Range Colder)
Open End Air Filter
Quaife Limited Slip Diff
RC Engineering 550cc Fuel Injectors
Removed ECU Speed Limiter
Road///Race Denso Fuel Pump
Web Cams 546/547 Race Cams (272° intake/256° exhaust)
Joe P Manual Boost Controller Brembo Drilled Rotors Hawk Brake Pads Battery Relocated To Trunk (Needed Space For Ignition) Dual Battery Selenoid Battery 1: Optima Yellow Top Battery 2: Optima Red Top
17" Enkei Shogun wheels wrapped in Dunlop SP8000 (215/45/Z17)
Eibach Pro-Kit Performance Springs
Koni Yellow Shocks/Struts
Freedom Design Front Strutbar
Pilot Motorsports Rear Lower Strutbar


which turbo should i use ?

What are your goals?

I say go t3/t4 if you are looking for high numbers. Most people I know with the 20g upgrade to t3/t4 anyways, and you are definetly set up for it.

Is that actually your mod list or is that what you want? 2.5" exhaust will not suffice on a big turbo with a stroker. You will need 3". DSMlink isnt a new ECU, just a way to modify the stock one and you can get rid of the top speed limiter with that. Those 550's wont even be able to max out a 16g, you'll need to get much bigger ones.

I say a bigger t3/t4, I dont think the 20g is really enough to make use of that kind of a list.

those are all already on my car ... so how big injectors should i need ... and i have been looking at 3 inch ... i am just waiting to order everything at once

also .. wat do u guyz think about these injectors ... somthin isnt quite right about the price .. should i trust them .. http://shop.edoperformance.com/product_info.php?products_id=1881 ... they are a set of 800cc injectors for under 200 bucks .. can this be ?

MY personal opinion is that a GT35R type turbo is the smallest you should go with on a stroker. Full boost at 3700 rpm. Going lower than that isn't necessary, IMO, but if you want to the smaller GT30s work too. The 20g and t3/t4s below the 60-1 are too small for a stroker IMO. The 60-1 is a little smaller than a GT35R.

And of course, fuel system parts have to be sized to the turbo, so you have to take care. 950s should be the minimum, especially with DSMink. The Denso pump won't cut it, you'll need a 255lph, and only the high pressure unit will suffice.

It's important not to forget that 15-20% more displacement means 15-20% more airflow at the same boost, so turbos become much smaller ;) Building a stroker is much more than just shortblock work, the whole setup has to be geared towards the added displacement...

arent 950's a little to big for my daily driver ... and also .. from wat i understand i should be able to max out the 16g with my 550's ... im not sure tho .. is this injector choosing chart in the middle of RRE's website misleading ? http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclfuel.htm ... Also, for now wat should my fuel pressure regulator be set at ? 2.3l stroker, 16g, 19psi, 550cc injectors .... does anyone have an equation or can tell me from experience? Thanks Alot guyz !

Fuel pressure should always be set to what the ECU expects it to be at, since it has no idea what it is if you change it ;)

550s will not fully support an EVO3 16g.

950s will run like stock with DSMlink.

That chart on RREs page is a generalization.

I would stay far far away from those injectors. 800's for $150? I bet they arent worth their weight in shit. Stick to FIC, RC, or PTE for injectors.

i am sorry for this question .. i will probably seem really dumb ... but i am not fully understanding it ... how do i know what the ECU expects it to be set as? is there an equation ?

found out more information about those injectors ... well i found another website selling those injectors for an EVO for close to 700 bucks ... http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/41_184_186_206_217/products_id/12323 ... so i started wondering ... so i called the TX location of EDO Performance .. where the "Injector Set" says 158.40 ... well they told me it was NOT THE SET ! .. thats per injector .. now it all comes togethor.. they jus mis typed it on the website ... i wonder how many people got ripped on that deal .. isnt that like .. hmmm FALSE ADVERTISING ! ... well just thought i would let you guys know that , the price is PER INJECTOR .. not "SET" as stated on the website.

i am sorry for this question .. i will probably seem really dumb ... but i am not fully understanding it ... how do i know what the ECU expects it to be set as? is there an equation ?
The ecu expects to see what it was programed to see which is 43.7psi at base idle I believe

I hope you plan on upgrading your wheels/tires with that kind of a setup. You'll burn off anything and everything that isn't a drag tire in no time.

The ecu expects to see what it was programed to see which is 43.7psi at base idle I believe

33 at idle with vacuum at pressure regulator, 42-45 without vacuum at pressure regulator.

I dont really care what those injectors are going for anywhere else, I wouldnt mess with anything other than PTE, RC, or FIC.

I personally only run FIC, since I've had such good luck with them.

Again for the archives, since this forum can be searched, base pressure (hose off) for a 1g is ~37-38, and 2g is ~43psi). Pressure with the hose on will vary from car to car, so that 33 psi figure above may not be accurate. Divide idle vac by 2 to convert from "hg to PSI, and subtract that number from your base (hose off) pressure.

I just pulled that off of Mitchell quick just to get some rough starting point numbers out there.

That number will be pretty close with stock cams, since idle vac will be 18-22 "hg. Probably why they listed it at 33. I have no idea what it will be on a built NT motor though.

I have no idea what it will be on a built NT motor though.

You made the same mistake I did right away. He's not running a NT, he's got a GST. :thumbsup:

Oops, getting my threads mixed up. They all look the same at 3am I guess. ;)

yupz .. its a gst ... and there not stock cams ... :)