96 88 engine cuts out

Hi my 96 88 starts and drives fine untill the accelerater is pushed to a certain point, then it cuts out. Same thing in park, the engine acts like there is a governer on it. :banghead: Below this level it runs great. Any Ideas? Thanks!

Is your SES light on? You should be getting a trouble code from at least one system from your description. My first impression is that youve got a faulty TPS or coil that are failing at higher RPM's.

Thanks for the reply. Here's an update. I've owned this car about 6 hours now, test drove in a small town, my last car was a Corolla. The car seemed to have plenty of get up and go in comparison. Just took it down the highway and learned a bit more. It seems to be holding back at all speeds, it stalled at a number of stop points, it stalled when I hit the accelerator on the highway at around 55 mph. Didn't stall once during test drive. :banghead: No check engine light on, don't really know a lot about the different sensors and such, please bare with me. Thanks!

Ok day 2 of this nightmare. :mad: Called the seller this morning and told him what's going on. He said the car had been sitting a few weeks since his Mom bought a new car. There was very little gas in it when I bought it and he wondered if there could be water in the tank. Suggested I fill the tank and throw in a bottle of dry gas. Did that and let the car idle for about 30 minutes. Took it down the road, no change :shakehead

While standing there looking at this engine idle like a dream, I noticed something else. The coolant level in the tank is about 3 inches above the full hot line :eek: Could this be related to the problems I'm experiencing, or a seperate issue?

Called the seller again, told him the latest and he agreed to have his mechanic (same mechanic who serviced the car from new) pick up the car tomorrow and fix whatever the problem is :rofl: So now I'd like to give him as much info as possible when he picks up the car. Thanks again!

with the engine stalling at around 55 I would say that your problem is almost definately related to either bad coil packs or a bad ICM. I would have that mechanic test those first.

Does the check engine light come on then go off when you turn the key on? If not, someone may have pulled the bulb so you won't know a problem exists. Have Auto Zone or Advance check the code for you and post their findings here. Don't trust what they tell you the codes mean.

I've never had any problems with getting wrong diagnostic code meanings...Back in the day before I knew how to pull codes myself the AZ guys always got 'em right.

Bad experience with one, richtazz?

Try the cam shaft sensor, realitivly cheap (30 bucks) and super easy.

There is no point in replacing the cam sensor (closer to 15 bucks) if he isn't getting a code 41...more likely with a code 41 is a broken or missing cam interruptor magnet anyway.

Unless you were thinking of the crankshaft sensor, then that is around 30 bucks and usually doesn't throw a code...but it also kills the engine at operating temps, not just around 50-60mph. If the crank is bad, the engine shouldn't start up again after a stall untill the crank sensor has cooled off....if it is the ICM/coils, then the engine may start right up in a few seconds, as soon as the ICM/coils have cooled a bit.

Plus....he said no check engine light so I still stongly believe that either his ICM or coils are shot because I have had 3 cars with 3800's have the exact same symptoms (suttering b/w 50 and 60 mph, slow acceleration, stalling, no SES light) and the problem being solved with coils and/or ICM's.

Is there greenish/grey goo coming out from the electrical harness of the ICM? If that is the case, then both the coils and ICM should be replaced (heat failure).

Just one example. I was at Zone, utilizing their tool loan program, and overheard a conversation that scared me. The customer had a p0304 code (mis-fire cylinder 4), and the Zone guy told him he needed and oxygen sensor, never mentioning what the code actually meant. And this guy had an ASE Parts certification patch on his shirt. SCARY!!!

the Zone guy told him he needed and oxygen sensor, never mentioning what the code actually meant. And this guy had an ASE Parts certification patch on his shirt. SCARY!!!

That is pretty scary.... I've always thought that people who favor one brand of store over another were kinda odd since every store is different, depending on the quality of the employees and their collective knowledge. You must have gotten an AZ with a couple mis-informed employees :uhoh:

OK the car returned from the mechanic today (long story) :banghead: , anyway, the coil packs were replaced (Good Call), a new set of wires installed and she now runs like a champ :grinyes: Thanks to all for the responses.

Yay :) I feel like I have just upgraded from a backyard mechanic to a shadetree mechanic

Glad to hear that she is purring again ;)

Here in Flint, MI, I've dealt with 4 different A-Z's and have yet to find a decent parts guy in any of them. Advance Auto Parts around here are slightly better, but overall not much. I don't knock the whole chain, but it's been my experience that if the guy cannot look up parts in a catalog, and always depends on the computer, he isn't worth a turd.