95 battery drain
GT11
06-03-2006, 08:37 AM
Cranks in the morn to go to work. At works end I get one chance to start it up. If it does not start on that first attempt I will need a jump. With a jump it fires right up. I think I'm going to have to start pulling fuses to find out were the problem is.
Also put the fuel pump in but only have 50 psi (changes on acceleration) on the fuel pressure gauge. A little rough on idle but runs good.
Left power window motor just too weak to do anything with it. Goes down 4 inches and stops. Wait a minute and down 4 more inches. Tried to clean and lube the gear, pivot points, etc. No luck. Even tried some Mica (used for my reloading dies) in the window track. No luck. The motor works but just too weak. I wish it would just burn up so I can drill the rivots and be done with it!
A/C won't take a charge at the accumulator (low side) so I guess a trip to the A/C guys are in order.
The 95 Jimmy saga continues...
GT
Also put the fuel pump in but only have 50 psi (changes on acceleration) on the fuel pressure gauge. A little rough on idle but runs good.
Left power window motor just too weak to do anything with it. Goes down 4 inches and stops. Wait a minute and down 4 more inches. Tried to clean and lube the gear, pivot points, etc. No luck. Even tried some Mica (used for my reloading dies) in the window track. No luck. The motor works but just too weak. I wish it would just burn up so I can drill the rivots and be done with it!
A/C won't take a charge at the accumulator (low side) so I guess a trip to the A/C guys are in order.
The 95 Jimmy saga continues...
GT
munson
06-05-2006, 07:03 PM
Look like batt problem!
before removing fuses, disc batt at night & reconnect
just before morning start up.
Start OK than check fuses that sparks when removing.
(All doors closed or dome light swith pushed in)
If hard start than it's batt or charging sytem.
Charging system check up:
Engine not running a volt meter reading across the batt should be 12V minimum
Engine running reading should be around 14V
If no 14V replace alternator or rectifier module
If 14V but lower than 12V before start and left disconnected for night replace Batt.
Window problem looks like corosion or cooked varnish on connector
if not replace motor (weak)
Have fun!
before removing fuses, disc batt at night & reconnect
just before morning start up.
Start OK than check fuses that sparks when removing.
(All doors closed or dome light swith pushed in)
If hard start than it's batt or charging sytem.
Charging system check up:
Engine not running a volt meter reading across the batt should be 12V minimum
Engine running reading should be around 14V
If no 14V replace alternator or rectifier module
If 14V but lower than 12V before start and left disconnected for night replace Batt.
Window problem looks like corosion or cooked varnish on connector
if not replace motor (weak)
Have fun!
GT11
06-05-2006, 08:29 PM
[QUOTE=munson]Window problem looks like corosion or cooked varnish on connector if not replace motor (weak)
Took a voltage check at the switch and appeared to be good. Did not check at the the motor. Sprayed everything down with Kroil and other penatrent with the attempt to free stuff up. But no go. Still the "Down 4 inches and stop" fix. Cooked varnish, (and other trash) in this case, would cause a problem. Good call Munson !!! Wish the danm thing would just self destruct so I could replace it. Thoughts on the best place to buy ???
Thanks
GT.......................
Took a voltage check at the switch and appeared to be good. Did not check at the the motor. Sprayed everything down with Kroil and other penatrent with the attempt to free stuff up. But no go. Still the "Down 4 inches and stop" fix. Cooked varnish, (and other trash) in this case, would cause a problem. Good call Munson !!! Wish the danm thing would just self destruct so I could replace it. Thoughts on the best place to buy ???
Thanks
GT.......................
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