Super D35, 35s, and a Locker?!
Kuhn
06-01-2006, 03:59 PM
I have an '02 Wrangler X. There is a D30 in the front and D35 in the rear. I am in the process of putting on 35x14.5s, a super D35 kit, and a Detroit Locker in the front. Could this setup handle a locker in the rear as well? Thanks!
Ray H
06-01-2006, 04:18 PM
I have an '02 Wrangler X. There is a D30 in the front and D35 in the rear. I am in the process of putting on 35x14.5s, a super D35 kit, and a Detroit Locker in the front. Could this setup handle a locker in the rear as well? Thanks!
The Super 35 comes with a locker, either a Detroit or ARB. If you get the Super 35, you're getting a rear locker whether you want it or not.
Put the Super 35 in the rear and alloy shafts up front and you should be fine for 35s if you dont get too crazy.:evillol: but I would say 35s are the upper limit for either of those axles.
The Super 35 comes with a locker, either a Detroit or ARB. If you get the Super 35, you're getting a rear locker whether you want it or not.
Put the Super 35 in the rear and alloy shafts up front and you should be fine for 35s if you dont get too crazy.:evillol: but I would say 35s are the upper limit for either of those axles.
wilwith1l
06-02-2006, 11:18 AM
IMO there isn't much hope for the D30, runnin 35x14.50s. W/ a locker you will probably grenade it, depending on how you jeep. But as always YMMV
Ray H
06-02-2006, 10:31 PM
IMO there isn't much hope for the D30, runnin 35x14.50s. W/ a locker you will probably grenade it, depending on how you jeep. But as always YMMV
It really is surprising how much abuse the little D30 will absorb.
The most beef you can throw into the D30 is a Super 30 kit, you get 30 spline alloy inner shafts, 27 spline alloy outers and a Detroit or ARB. The bad thing is you spend all that money and youve still got 27 spline alloy outers and the same 760 ujoints you did have. You could stick a factory Rubicon D44 under it but you still have the same 27 spline outers and standard 30 spline inners. The weak point of the front axle should be the ujoints because they are cheap and easy to fix. The problem with non alloy shafts is that when you take out a ujoint, you usaually take out the shaft ears with it. Thats why I suggested alloy shafts, the ears are stronger and resist bending when the ujoint goes. BTW, all the combinations above use the same ujoints so thats your weak link.
It really is surprising how much abuse the little D30 will absorb.
The most beef you can throw into the D30 is a Super 30 kit, you get 30 spline alloy inner shafts, 27 spline alloy outers and a Detroit or ARB. The bad thing is you spend all that money and youve still got 27 spline alloy outers and the same 760 ujoints you did have. You could stick a factory Rubicon D44 under it but you still have the same 27 spline outers and standard 30 spline inners. The weak point of the front axle should be the ujoints because they are cheap and easy to fix. The problem with non alloy shafts is that when you take out a ujoint, you usaually take out the shaft ears with it. Thats why I suggested alloy shafts, the ears are stronger and resist bending when the ujoint goes. BTW, all the combinations above use the same ujoints so thats your weak link.
wilwith1l
06-05-2006, 09:56 AM
For the cost of a super 30 kit, I would try to find a junk yard Rubi 44.I am not very keen on the 7.2" R&P.
I actually bent the DS outer shaft on my Rubicon. Which made the perfect time to call Alloy USA and replace both.
I actually bent the DS outer shaft on my Rubicon. Which made the perfect time to call Alloy USA and replace both.
Ray H
06-05-2006, 10:51 AM
For the cost of a super 30 kit, I would try to find a junk yard Rubi 44.I am not very keen on the 7.2" R&P.
I actually bent the DS outer shaft on my Rubicon. Which made the perfect time to call Alloy USA and replace both.
Junkyard Rubis are tough to find. If you are real lucky, it may still have the locker in it.
I agree that a Super 30 is really too much $$ to throw into a D30. He didnt say what gears he was planning on running, Im guessing 4.56s or 4.88s for 35s so R&P strength is something to think about. Another option would be finding a high pinion XJ front axle. The HP R&P is a little srtonger than a low pinion. It also has the advantage of better driveline angles when lifted. All that being said, Ive never seen or heard of a busted D30 R&P, the shafts and ujoints seem to always go first. I remember when Superior first marketed the D30 4.88s for YJs, XJs and TJs. All the old timers said, no way, the pinion is too small to hold up to large tires. (if youve ever seen a D30 4.88, they are cute, they look like a toy). There are now thousands in service and they are doing fine.
Whichever way he goes, he really does need to invest in alloys to run 35" tires.
I actually bent the DS outer shaft on my Rubicon. Which made the perfect time to call Alloy USA and replace both.
Junkyard Rubis are tough to find. If you are real lucky, it may still have the locker in it.
I agree that a Super 30 is really too much $$ to throw into a D30. He didnt say what gears he was planning on running, Im guessing 4.56s or 4.88s for 35s so R&P strength is something to think about. Another option would be finding a high pinion XJ front axle. The HP R&P is a little srtonger than a low pinion. It also has the advantage of better driveline angles when lifted. All that being said, Ive never seen or heard of a busted D30 R&P, the shafts and ujoints seem to always go first. I remember when Superior first marketed the D30 4.88s for YJs, XJs and TJs. All the old timers said, no way, the pinion is too small to hold up to large tires. (if youve ever seen a D30 4.88, they are cute, they look like a toy). There are now thousands in service and they are doing fine.
Whichever way he goes, he really does need to invest in alloys to run 35" tires.
wilwith1l
06-06-2006, 07:43 AM
I've seen plenty of stripped out Ring gears on 30s and 35s, and in the same i have seen a couple of 44s missin teeth. I saw one Rubi that lost two teeth on the Ring only runnin 33s and just trail riding. However, I can say a bigger ring gear is a stronger ring gear.
Oh and the HiPinion from an XJ is a good idea.
Oh and the HiPinion from an XJ is a good idea.
Kuhn
06-06-2006, 11:52 AM
So basically.... I need to start saving! Thanks for all the input. This will be very useful.
Ray H
06-06-2006, 12:38 PM
I've seen plenty of stripped out Ring gears on 30s and 35s, and in the same i have seen a couple of 44s missin teeth. I saw one Rubi that lost two teeth on the Ring only runnin 33s and just trail riding. However, I can say a bigger ring gear is a stronger ring gear.
Oh and the HiPinion from an XJ is a good idea.
Its actually the size of the pinion gear that becomes the problem. As you go lower in gearing like 4.56s and 4.88s the pinion gets tiny and will only engage one to two teeth of the ring gear. Obviously the bigger the ring gear though, the bigger the pinion can be for a given ratio. So actually a D30 3.55 R&P is as strong as a D44 4.88 R&P because the pinion gear size is very close to the same size and engages the same nuimber of ring teeth.
Oh and the HiPinion from an XJ is a good idea.
Its actually the size of the pinion gear that becomes the problem. As you go lower in gearing like 4.56s and 4.88s the pinion gets tiny and will only engage one to two teeth of the ring gear. Obviously the bigger the ring gear though, the bigger the pinion can be for a given ratio. So actually a D30 3.55 R&P is as strong as a D44 4.88 R&P because the pinion gear size is very close to the same size and engages the same nuimber of ring teeth.
myjeepsux420
06-06-2006, 12:57 PM
That superior kit is really expensive. I wish I had gone with a Ford 8.8 to start with.
Kuhn
06-07-2006, 11:11 AM
Would it be wise to get a Ford 8.8 for the rear, and leave the D30 for the front? I've never really researched much about the Ford 8.8 axle... Do do they have any that can be used for the front? FYI, my goal is to have lockers on both and I'm starting to consider 37's.
Ray H
06-07-2006, 03:15 PM
Have you started printing money?
First you buy an X, not a sport or Sahara, but an X which is basically a stripped 4.0 Wrangler. Then you want to install a blower in it. Then you want to move up to 35" tires but go the easy way out by going with with a Super 35 kit instead of buying the appropriate axles. Now you want to go to 37s. Did you just suddenly win the lotto?
Anyway, to answer your question. I dont know of a front 8.8. The Explorer 8.8 is a nice axle, a little stronger than a D44, but to run 37s the way they should be run, its time to step up to full width 3/4 ton axles. The 8.8 isnt beefy enough and its way too narrow for 37s. We're talking D60, 14 bolt or at least Ford 9" rear. Preferably a D60 front but minimum a D44 (not a rubi D44, one with fullsize flattop knuckles, 30 spline alloy axles all the way through and lockouts.
If you did win the lotto, you can have someone fab these full width axles for a hefty price, or, if you have the fab skills, get yourself a junkyard 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck and do it all yourself for a mere small fortune. Dont forget about the rest of the drivetrain. The 231 transfercase isnt made of titanium, neither is that medium duty transmission. You're going to have to have those full widths regeared or that Jeep will be a dog.
I dont mean to burst you bubble but if you are just now starting to save for a Super 35 kit, and it doesnt sound as if you have the skills to fab up the axles and suspension to match, it will be a number of years before you need to start planning your build.
You may see alot of guys out there running 37s but be aware, if they didnt do it right, which is expensive, those Jeeps may look good to you but they arent worth a crap on the road or off.
First you buy an X, not a sport or Sahara, but an X which is basically a stripped 4.0 Wrangler. Then you want to install a blower in it. Then you want to move up to 35" tires but go the easy way out by going with with a Super 35 kit instead of buying the appropriate axles. Now you want to go to 37s. Did you just suddenly win the lotto?
Anyway, to answer your question. I dont know of a front 8.8. The Explorer 8.8 is a nice axle, a little stronger than a D44, but to run 37s the way they should be run, its time to step up to full width 3/4 ton axles. The 8.8 isnt beefy enough and its way too narrow for 37s. We're talking D60, 14 bolt or at least Ford 9" rear. Preferably a D60 front but minimum a D44 (not a rubi D44, one with fullsize flattop knuckles, 30 spline alloy axles all the way through and lockouts.
If you did win the lotto, you can have someone fab these full width axles for a hefty price, or, if you have the fab skills, get yourself a junkyard 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck and do it all yourself for a mere small fortune. Dont forget about the rest of the drivetrain. The 231 transfercase isnt made of titanium, neither is that medium duty transmission. You're going to have to have those full widths regeared or that Jeep will be a dog.
I dont mean to burst you bubble but if you are just now starting to save for a Super 35 kit, and it doesnt sound as if you have the skills to fab up the axles and suspension to match, it will be a number of years before you need to start planning your build.
You may see alot of guys out there running 37s but be aware, if they didnt do it right, which is expensive, those Jeeps may look good to you but they arent worth a crap on the road or off.
Kuhn
06-07-2006, 04:29 PM
Well, I'm working on a list of everything I want and putting it in order of how it would have to go on... And no I did not hit the lotto (infact, I have a 0% chance of that since I never buy tickets), but I did just graduate and am looking for a decent paying job... So some of these far-fetched ideas might come together. I've given up on the blower, and I want a 350 now, btw. :lol:
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