Help!! Car Wont Start!!!!

please help me!!!! ok, my car wont start...i mean not even crank, i used to have to have to push/wiggle the key when i was trying to start it for it to crank, tonight it went out, i went to napa and got a new ignition switch and put it in and it didnt solve any of the problems, and i know how to put one in so i know i didnt do it wrong, i went back to napa and asked them if they knew what it could be and they said something about "pigtail connectors" how hard is it to replace these "pigtail connectors" and how much do they cost? also, with the ignition back exposed, how do i hot wire the car, and can i hook up a button for the hotwire to start it until i get it fixed? PLEASE HELP!!!!! if i dont make it to work tomorrow im fired!!!!

also will it hurt anything to have a push button start on for like 2 days until i can get it fixed?

is your battery good, you never mentioned if you made sure its still good. make sure the starter connections are good, even the ground. then you can check to see if power is even getting to the starter. if not then you know theres something wrong with the wiring. make sure you didnt blow a fuse. might be that you giggling the key around which might have caused a short which may have blown a fuse or fried a wire

a push start button wont hurt your car.

Yeh like civickiller said check your battery. Does the light work? Any electrical works in your car? If it does then theres nothing wrong with the alternator so it could be your battery.

No cranking and wiggling of the key is a classic case of dead starter. Starters are like $100 at Pep Boys with a $30 core-refund, and they are prety easy to install. I will tell you exactly how if you want to.

mine did the same thing a while ago and i got my started checked out and it was fine it turned out to be the main fuse for my car and blown it was only like 3 dollars to buy a new

NOPE, ALL ELECTRICS ARE GOOD, BATTERY IS GOOD, ALT IS GOOD, FUSE IS GOOD, HOW DO I TEST THE STARTER? AND HOW CAN I HOTWIRE IT WITH A BUTTON AND WILL IT HURT ANYTHING?

there are three ways to test the starter 1 is to pull the starter out and hook up like a battery charger to it and see if it works. 2 have someone turn the key and go and check to see if there is power going to the starter. hook up a voltmeter to the wires and see if there is voltage. if there is voltage then it may be the starter 3 napa sell a starter that you hook up one connection to the battery and then run the other wire to the starter and there is a push button in the center and when you push the button it completes the connection so power runs to the starter from teh battery so it works. and if the starter doesnt turn then you got a faulty starter. but just to let you know i never tried this 3rd way but my has done it and thats how i think it would be done. napa could explain it to you

make sure your engine fuses didnt blow either. dotn just check the fuses in the car, check the ones in the engine bay

yea, i checked the fuses under the hood and there all good

Originally posted by slammed89civic
NOPE, ALL ELECTRICS ARE GOOD, BATTERY IS GOOD, ALT IS GOOD, FUSE IS GOOD, HOW DO I TEST THE STARTER?

Look, I have an '88 Civic LX and I know it inside out. Reading this post you made, it really shows you're just saying this but don't know for sure. Like, how did you test the alternator? Did you take it out of the car and bring it to a Pep Boys or something and have them run a voltage check? If so, then you need to be specific. Otherwise it's not really possible to test it without it spinning wither from the engine or a motor at your local parts store........

First off, I'm, here to help not criticize and it sounds like you're in a bind, so I hope the following helps out.

What we really need to know first is if you get any like at all if you turn the key to the accessory or ON position. If you get dash lights, then things are looking up. Also, does your dome light come on in the 'ON' position? Do the headlights work, parking lights?

If you can turn on your headlight and parking lights then your battery is putting out a solid 12V. It would help if you had a voltmeter($20-$30) or a battery/alternator testor($10 from discount auto) to get the exact voltage the battery is putting out. If you get around 12.5V from the battery with no load at all, then you have a good battery.

In case your battery puts out, but you have no dash lights/dome light/ parking lights, then you need to check the large fuses under your hood, most importantly the one marked 'BATTERY'. It's a 40 AMP fure and you'll see the copper bridge in the middle of it. Broken=fried. Assuming this is OK, then proceed.

Next off, an easy way to check the starter. What you can do is pull the spark plug wires off the plugs and then find the starter. It has a few connections on it. The big wire(battery) should always show at least 12V. The small wire closest to the front end is your 'remote' wire. If you have no one to help you you can test the starter by simply running a wire from this connector on your starter to the positive terminal on your battery. The starter should crank when you do this. If it does not and the battery shows 12V like I asked before, then you have a bad starter.
Another way to tell if the starter is locked is if it makes a humming sound but does not turn when you do the 'remote' test or have someone tunrn the key to 'crank' while you listen under the hood. Smoke from the starter is another telltale sign.

If the starter tests OK, you get dashlights dome light/etc..., but no cranks when you use the key, then you're problem is going to e in the ignition wiring somewhere. Something to understand is you're ignition itself is probably not the issue if you get dash lights in the 'on' position. CRANK simply throws 12V to that 'remote' terminal on your starter i mentioned before. Well, before I start going into the ignition further and make this any longer, read through this and answer the questions.

It will make it easier for all of us here to help you figure this out.

You test the Alternator by starting the car and then disconnecting the battery once it's running, if the car dies after like 10 minutes then your Alt is shot.

I'm not disproving your methods, but I've been working on Hondas for about 6 years and I've never heard of anyone testing an alternator like that. In fact, I'm quite sure if you disconnect the battery while the car is running, it will just shut off. The battery does more than just supply starting voltage. It also completes a circuit. Breaking that circuit will turn the car off. If I'm really wrong about this and someone can verify this is a preoven method, I'm open to learning new tricks every day, but I don't see how this can tell you if your alternator is putting out 14V or not.

The proper way to test the alternator is once you have it running, connect that $10 battery/alternator tester to the battery. The voltage should be around 12.5V or better not running and around 14.5V at running at idle with 0 load.

damn it, found out that the starter is bad, how much does a new one run for and how HARD is it to put in for someone who has little knowlage on the engine? also if anyone could tell me how it is done i will love you for life....:D

damn it, found out that the starter is bad, how much does a new one run for and how HARD is it to put in for someone who has little knowlage on the engine? also if anyone could tell me how it is done i will love you for life....:D

replacing the starter is easy. the hardest part will be getting to the starter itself. first take off the electrical connectors then unbolt, i believe there is 2 bolts, the 2 bolts then pull the starter out.

put the new starter back in place, bolt it up, put the connectors back on then your good to go

dont forget to remember what wire goes where, and to tape off the connectors so tehy dont touch anything and short your electrical system out

see easy

how do i get to it? i have to drive my 88 galant until i get it fixed...grrrrr damn mitsubishi's

the starter is located on the top of the tranny on the firewall side. you can unbolt it from the top. you might wanna remove your intake for easier access to it.

Did you take it somewhere to get it looked at? How do you know it's bad? I just want to make sure you don't replace it and find out that's not the problem case you can't return parts you've installed.

So long as you're sure the starter is the cause, make sure you disconnect the negatie battery cable before you begin removing the electrical connectors from it.

It's located on top of the tranny like mentioned, but you can't see it without moving some coolant hoses out of the way. You will actually want to take out any hoses that are really obstructive cause you will need some room to work down there and pull the starter out. The space is a little cramped.

Also, something you should know is the starter is being held in 2 bolts. The one on top is pretty easy to get at but the bottm one is a pain cause you can't see it at all and will have to find it with your fingers. Getting to it will require a short to medium length 3/4" extention for your rathet and I forget what size hex head the bolt has.....12mm I think. Just have patience removing the lower bolt cause you'll only be able to turn it a little at a time and it's quite long.

Here's how to replace the Starter...

Pop the hood and remove the intake and it's hoses all the way to the intake manifold, remove the battery. There is a large Coolant hose going right over the starter, pull it from the firewall but be prepared as coolant will pour from the firewall. What I did was take saran wrap and a rubber band and put it over it to prevent liquid from coming out. There are 2 bolts holding the starter one at the top and one on the bottom opposite side. Unbolt the bolts, you can feel around for the one on the bottom, it's not that hard. Then disconnect the electrical connections to the starter. After that take a pry bar and rubber hammer and put the pry bar to the top end of the starter close to where the battery would be then knock it with the rubber hammer to free the starter from the transmission (and it will be stuck on considering it could have been there for over 10 years). After that pull the starter out, you may have to pull it around the crap in the engine but you can easily get it out from the top. After that just do the same in reverse basically.