Maintenance Questions

I have a few maintenance questions since I’m a noob with Isuzu’s. I cleaned the range sensor today, which was a pain to get to, but gave me peace of mind. The grease inside was slightly brown but I cleaned it out anyway. After I turned the truck on, the shifts into drive seemed pretty stiff. As I worked the shifter a few times it seemed to loosen up, but not as loose as before I cleaned it. Anyone else come across this?

Unfortunately, cleaning the RS didn’t help my slipping or delay in reverse. So I decided to test the battery and the charging system. All my testing with my meter showed everything was ok. I proceeded to clean the battery terminals since there was some corrosion. After I put everything back together I cranked the truck and the whirring sound I was getting before ( didn’t know if it was from the engine or tranny) was gone. I test drove it in the parking lot staying under 20mph, but the whirring came back. After I parked I popped the hood again and realized it may be the engine whirring and not the tranny. I had the truck in P and revved it past 2000 rpm and I heard it. Under that or at idle there is no whirring. Any idea if it is the tranny or engine? This is what everyone refers to as limp mode? I have no trouble lights on at all.

I have an appointment with a shop on Thursday to drop the pan and replace the filter and etc. I can’t drop the pan in my apartment complex parking lot. I wanted to do some prelim stuff before they “recommend” I need a rebuilt. I have another car so I’m taking my time to do it right. I’m pretty sure the previous owner NEVER changed the tranny filter. All he did were flushes

The EGR, PCV, and fuel system were cleaned/replaced less than a year ago by the previous owner.

Can you guys recommend anything else I should check before my appointment Thursday? .I want to know where I stand before I head into the lion’s den.

Are you sure it's not the alternator ready to give out? Let me search for my recent thread... You can drop the belt off the alt and run it briefly to see if that eliminates the noise. I thought my whirring was coming from under the timing belt covers, but it was the alt as the next night the truck died.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/t557400.html
Hope this helps you and doesn't send you in the wrong direction...
What year is your Rodeo? 3.2L V6? When my oem alt finally failed, I didn't get the common signs of it going bad. It just made that RPM dependent whirring. Good luck!

Yeah whirring most likely caused by drivebelt driven component like alternator or power steering pump. Wooden broom handle against component, other end against side of your head will help isolate source of the sound.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I forgot to mention I have a 98 3.2 auto.
Would the whirring disappear after I disconnected and reconnected the battery? When I started the truck after the above, I noticed the whirring had disappeared. I revved above 2k rpms and didn't hear any whirring. But, as I pulled out of the parking space it came back. This the only reason I think it's a tranny issue and not the alternator. Reconnecting the battery should not quiet the alternator and then have it come back after the truck starts moving. I will check the alt. just to make sure. The previous owner had the OEM battery replaced in 2000 with the current Interstate. His receipts never indicated the OEM alt. was ever replaced. Might just be time.

Any other things to check before Thursday?

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I forgot to mention I have a 98 3.2 auto.
Would the whirring disappear after I disconnected and reconnected the battery? When I started the truck after the above, I noticed the whirring had disappeared. I revved above 2k rpms and didn't hear any whirring. But, as I pulled out of the parking space it came back. This the only reason I think it's a tranny issue and not the alternator. Reconnecting the battery should not quiet the alternator and then have it come back after the truck starts moving. I will check the alt. just to make sure. The previous owner had the OEM battery replaced in 2000 with the current Interstate. His receipts never indicated the OEM alt. was ever replaced. Might just be time.

Any other things to check before Thursday?

I once had a whirring/whining noise that I was convinced came from the tranny. I paid a shop to drop the pan and change the filter. The whirring/whine continued.

If the whirring occurs when the tranny is in neutral or park, it is highly unlikely to be caused by the tranny. Mine turned out to be the power steering pump. Dealer says whiny PS pump is common and 'normal'. I replaced it and the whirring is gone and has been gone for the last 3 years. This noise happens only at a specific RPM (like 2200 or something like that). No noise above or below this rpm.

If you get someone to rev the engine to where it makes the whirring noise, then use a broomstick as a stethoscope you can isolate where the noise is coming from. Carefully put one end to the alternator, timing belt cover, ps pump etc. You're hear the whirring clearly relative to the non-whirring components. I very much doubt that the tranny is the culprit although I can understand why it sounds like its coming from there. Been there, done that.

Most likely culprit is PS pump or alternator.

Seems like the whirring is not coming from the tranny. Like mentioned above higly possible it may be the P/S pump.

On an unrelated note, I found a nice suprise when I got home and looked under the truck.......a nice coolant puddle.

As you're looking at the truck with the hook propped open, there is a puddle on the right side of the skid plate.
By the time I get everything fixed, my internship will be over!Grrrrr

Keep on top of that coolant leak. As you've probably already read, overheating the engine also overheats the atf, and the tranny does not respond well to overheating.

WATERPUMP! Could be what your sound is as well. Don't MESS around, get it done and don't be driving it.

Mine only made a whirring sound for a day before it crapped out, big-time, and it's a horrible mess when it goes.

WATERPUMP! Could be what your sound is as well. Don't MESS around, get it done and don't be driving it.

Mine only made a whirring sound for a day before it crapped out, big-time, and it's a horrible mess when it goes.

I'm thinking the same thing now. I have put very few miles (< 100) on the car since I bought it. Once I heard the whirring sound when revved I parked it. Well, that and the tranny issue:banghead: .

Is there any definitive way to know it's the water pump? I looked under the truck today and couldn't find the source. There is a large puddle of coolant right on top of the skid plate on the driver side. May purchase a pressure tester. Now I have to spend more money.:mad:

Well, when my waterpump went, it was very obvious - antifreeze was flying everywhere with the engine running, and I mean everywhere. Your's could just be "on the way out", with mine, there really was no obvious warning.

One day *something* made this whirring/whining sound, the next day antifreeze was flying everywhere and then the sound of a rod knocking started; only it wasn't a rod knocking, it was the timing belt tensioner bout to throw the ghost as the waterpump is behind the timing belt, and when the waterpump freezes up, it throws the timing belt tensioner and belt off the teeth.

I didn't have time to do mine myself, and it was in the middle of a deep, hard freeze, my mechanic did the whole package - waterpump, belt, tensioner, idler pulley (right there), along with crankshaft/camshaft seals to the tune of $1,130.

Believe me, it was unexpected, as I figured I'd get at least another good year out of that waterpump as most Rodeo owners are getting over 120k or so; my oem pump was replaced at 60k (as preventative maintenance), but I only got 90k out of the 2nd pump.

Basically, if it is your pump, might as well do the whole package, as you don't want to have to tear it down again, and the pump is behind the timing belt.

Another source of leak - where it's possible to drip on the skid-plate is the T-connection of 3 hoses underneith the intake manifold, I believe. Surferfletch is VERY familiar with this, hopefully he'll post in. Generally this hits at about 8-10yrs of vehicle age; I personally have not experienced this, but probably only because all of those connections were replaced at the time of new valve cover gaskets 4yrs ago.

Keep us posted. Good luck.

I think you nailed it with the waterpump, Ramblin'. The pump is buried under the timing belt covers on my 3.2L, and I expect it would leave the puddle up front. My problem involved the o-rings at the end of the external cooling pipes on top of the engine, under the intake, and between the heads. You can see puddles of coolant on top of the block if you shine a flashlight in there at the front of the engine. Here's the link...
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=471459

******* UPDATE**********

Well, I just wanted to follow up on my issues b/c I hate it when posters don't give updates which may help other members. :smokin:

A mechanic and I pressure tested the system for an hour and discovered the leak. I believe the leak existed before I bought it a few months ago. The coolant is pretty much baked on there. It was actually hard to find but as we increased the pressure the small leak turned into a steady stream. Also, after looking over the previous owner's records, the timing belt service was performed at a dealer at 75,000 miles. As is stands I will probably wait to do another timing service. I just replaced the radiator and flushed the cooling system.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v68/korean_teg/Picture008.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v68/korean_teg/Picture011.jpg

LOL...I forgot about the whirring sound and the partial tranny fluid swap.

The mechanic dropped the pan w/o removing the cross-member using a swivel head socket. I didn't take pics of pan b/c my hands were dirty and the camera was set aside. Anyhoo, I can say with confidence that the filer was NEVER changed. There was about 1/8 in layer of sludge sitting at the bottom of the pan. I couldn't even see the magnet. So basically, the original owner just did flushes w/o ever changing the filter. The filter was covered in sludge. I did see metal flakes, but no big chunks of anything.

After he installed the pan he asked me where the dipstick was. I said it doesn't have one. LOL..he said there HAS to be one, so he was looking in the engine bay. I explained how the fluid is refilled so he got a cool looking transfer pump. All I can say is, he got covered in fluid and was pretty mad. :lol: He promised me next time he will charge me $100 instead of the $55.

I took the truck for a drive and the whirring was gone. That's weird eh? The slipping is almost completely gone. BUT the 2 second delay going into Reverse is still there. I will several partial swaps every 3-4k to see what happens. It gives me time to increase the size of my savings account incase it just dies. I think that's it. :rofl:

Thanks for the update! Should be good to go for awhile.