Ok, I got it ordered......now what.......

Ok, went on ebay today and got a nut kit....I wanted to do the nut kit and the injector assembly but im broke and would like to have my Jimmy on the road sometime this century. Now is there any pointers or anything to make the job easier....I removed the hood because it was annoying me so that is not an issue and everything is torn apart waiting for the....part :). So any knowledge and tools that I will need will be great. Thanks in advance.

Ok, went on ebay today and got a nut kit....I wanted to do the nut kit and the injector assembly but im broke and would like to have my Jimmy on the road sometime this century. Now is there any pointers or anything to make the job easier....I removed the hood because it was annoying me so that is not an issue and everything is torn apart waiting for the....part :). So any knowledge and tools that I will need will be great. Thanks in advance.

What year? Whats a nut kit? do you mean spider assembly?

Its a 1993 GMC Jimmy S-15. The nut kit is the supply and return fuel lines, it comes up to the manifold and then goes into the spider assembly. Just wondering if anyone has any pointers for me on installing the kit.

Pretty simple, remove the upper plenum, then you will see the horseshoe clips holding the lines on at the reg. Undo the fuel lines first, 16mm and 3/4 wrenches. Put a rag over the fittings so you don't get a face full. Use a flat blade screwdriver and remove the clips, remove the fuel lines carefully. Put some silicone spray or lube on the o-rings and put it back together. Make sure the metal fuel lines still have there o-rings still attached. Clean out the carbon out of the EGR passage, clean the throttle body with carb cleaner and a tooth brush. Reassembly and go have fun.

somewhere back a few months ago, one of the moderator/ASE guys posted a service bulletin from gm about the injectors, both csfi type and the new mod. mfi, it was a fix to customer complaints about this type of injector problems and explained in detail with pictures and part breakdown on how to clean the old style injectors(spider/cfsi) and if the cleaning didn't work, to consult the owner about the mod to new mfi injectors. it even included part numbers for o-rings, nut kits, gm brand cleaner, etc, with a part list for gmdirect for the conversion to mfi. i checked and the parts from gm to do the conversion are between $275-325USD depending on whether you order the lub, cleaning fluid, etc from them or not.

Pretty simple, remove the upper plenum, then you will see the horseshoe clips holding the lines on at the reg. Undo the fuel lines first, 16mm and 3/4 wrenches. Put a rag over the fittings so you don't get a face full. Use a flat blade screwdriver and remove the clips, remove the fuel lines carefully. Put some silicone spray or lube on the o-rings and put it back together. Make sure the metal fuel lines still have there o-rings still attached. Clean out the carbon out of the EGR passage, clean the throttle body with carb cleaner and a tooth brush. Reassembly and go have fun.

Is that the procedure for pre vortech 4.3ltr engines? I have the vortech engine so dont have the TBI, just that spider assembly.

Is that the procedure for pre vortech 4.3ltr engines? I have the vortech engine so dont have the TBI, just that spider assembly.

That is for the 95 and earlier W engines. 96 and up got the new style. Vortech is GM's brand name and they even called TBI's Vortechs in the early 90's. TBI's are engine code Z, 96 and up 4.3 CPI's can be W and X

[quote=Junky1991]Is that the procedure for pre vortech 4.3ltr engines? I have the vortech engine so dont have the TBI, just that spider assembly.[/quote
************************************************** *******
gm service bulletin no:00-06-04-003B, file in section 06- engine/propulsion date- february 2003.
models: 1995-2002 chev and gmc s/t models
1996-2002 chev and gmc c/k, m/l, g, p models,
1996-2001 olds bravada
1999-2000 cad. escalade:
with4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L(vins w,x,m,r-rpo's L35, LF6, L30, L31)
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO UPDATE THE CORRECTION AND WARRANTY INFORMATION. PLEASE DISCARD CORPORATE BULLETIN NO. 00-06-04-003A(SECTION 06- ENGINE)
************************************************** ******

This should be enough to google this bulletin no. and there are 2 methods for gm techs to follow, one is to clean, and the other is to upgrade from csfi(stock from factory for all these engines and models) Central sfi system to MFI, multi port flexible injection.
the bulletin was not a recall, and only the complaining customers during warranty ever heard of it. the procedure and the parts list for the conversion are still available from gm parts direct, or a gmc dealership. there is no aftermarket cross ref for the part no.'s in this bulletin, as i have been trying for 3 mo.' and no one even knows what i'm talking about.
as i was told, the conversion may or may nor help milage or performance, but remove a weak spot, and if the conversion is done right, there is one less thing to worry about for 4-5- years.
this will be my next engine upgrade, so if you are a wait and see type, i'll try to post before/after comentary.

[quote=Junky1991]Is that the procedure for pre vortech 4.3ltr engines? I have the vortech engine so dont have the TBI, just that spider assembly.[/quote
************************************************** *******
gm service bulletin no:00-06-04-003B, file in section 06- engine/propulsion date- february 2003.
models: 1995-2002 chev and gmc s/t models
1996-2002 chev and gmc c/k, m/l, g, p models,
1996-2001 olds bravada
1999-2000 cad. escalade:
with4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L(vins w,x,m,r-rpo's L35, LF6, L30, L31)
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING REVISED TO UPDATE THE CORRECTION AND WARRANTY INFORMATION. PLEASE DISCARD CORPORATE BULLETIN NO. 00-06-04-003A(SECTION 06- ENGINE)
************************************************** ******

This should be enough to google this bulletin no. and there are 2 methods for gm techs to follow, one is to clean, and the other is to upgrade from csfi(stock from factory for all these engines and models) Central sfi system to MFI, multi port flexible injection.
the bulletin was not a recall, and only the complaining customers during warranty ever heard of it. the procedure and the parts list for the conversion are still available from gm parts direct, or a gmc dealership. there is no aftermarket cross ref for the part no.'s in this bulletin, as i have been trying for 3 mo.' and no one even knows what i'm talking about.
as i was told, the conversion may or may nor help milage or performance, but remove a weak spot, and if the conversion is done right, there is one less thing to worry about for 4-5- years.
this will be my next engine upgrade, so if you are a wait and see type, i'll try to post before/after comentary.

Yea someone needs to do this with full documentation and pics for us people that need step by step stuff. Keep us posted. Im just gonna replace this and hope it will last me awile, would like to drive this thing again, seems like it sits in my garage more than on the road, I guess in a way im keeping miles off it LOL.

this bulletin is on this forum, pdf file, under injectors or leaking injectors, or if you google the bulletin number, it actually has step by step instructions:icon16:

Its for 96 up:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=542117

Ok, I got a burr up my butt and am trying to get the old kit off......I got the retaining clip off the spider assembly and am trying to get the torx bit off the back...I hate GM engineers right now. I bought a new torx bit set to get the T30 with a 3/8 adaptor, now thats missing in the engine somewhere. I also had a set that looked like a swiss army knife of torx, but I cant seem to get it between the fuel lines....im soooooooo frustrated right now...I dont even know if that torx is rounded...I really hope not.

Ok, if that torx was not rounded before it is now...im getting to the point were im about to take the spider assembly and poppets out and just do the whole fing thing because I never want to see the inside of a vortec engine again in my life. What is the best route to go now...should I take off the lower intake and drill out that torx or is there another way to do it. Id hate to take more stuff out, dont know if I can get what I have taken apart back together as it is.

Ok, if that torx was not rounded before it is now...im getting to the point were im about to take the spider assembly and poppets out and just do the whole fing thing because I never want to see the inside of a vortec engine again in my life. What is the best route to go now...should I take off the lower intake and drill out that torx or is there another way to do it. Id hate to take more stuff out, dont know if I can get what I have taken apart back together as it is.

the best way is to go to sears tool section and buy a set of screw outs. they look like backwards screw driver tip, and the other end is squared off like a tap/die set.(or they sometimes come in hex to fit drill drivers and hand tools) also know as easy outs, look for the ones that look sharp on the edges that will bite into the torx screw hole, and try that. if that does not work, and you have one of the other exact same sized torx bolt/screws, find a drill bit that is just a hair smallet the the bolt minus the threads, ie; you want to drill out the bolt, not the threads in the hole. then use a thread chaser to get the rest of the bolt in the threads. good luck, and i send my :2cents: and not to be a a'hole, but this is exactly why ASE and long time shop mechanics charge so much for this kind of job. it's probably a 7-9 on the 1-10 scale of shadetree mechanic index. get er done man, your almost there:rolleyes:

Cool man ill try that. Not gonna mess with it this weekend but maybe some sometime next week. Will keep ya posted and hopefully I can keep my blood pressure down lol.

Cool man ill try that. Not gonna mess with it this weekend but maybe some sometime next week. Will keep ya posted and hopefully I can keep my blood pressure down lol.

i use beer, but i lock my tool box first and hide the key before the first beer get cracked!!!!!!!:grinno::grinyes::evillol:

UPDATE!!!!!!

Victory is mine....for now


Well today I finally got off that dumb bracket and torx screw, now several pieces later (used a hand saw with metal blade :) im ready to put on the new nut kit and put everything back together......hopefully.


P.S got some Anti-seize for that torx and when I do my next spark plug job.

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well, I got the nut kit installed and everything back on.......only had one bolt extra....o well...
im broke so only changed the nut kit and the fuel press regulator. Assembly will have to wait....


Took it for a test drive and it was like night and day wow!!!!! power and no ruff idle for once. I want to thank everyone on this forum for giving me advice and all the articles that gave me the knowledge to get er done!

So I cross my fingers and go through the list of other things that need replacing. I love my Jimmy again!!!!!!!!!!

YA-HOO! :) I'm gonna do this thing next for my wierded out Jimmy....

Good luck, it might not be as bad for you hopefully. Here is a good link with pics....


http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=473110

I got the nut kit today. Got a pretty good deal on it $48 w/tax (helps having a buddy who gets a city discount :) ). I sure hope this works, since the only other thing left is the spyder assy & that ain't cheap! I like you, never wanna see the inside of a Vortec engine again! I've been fighting things from a dead fuel pump, busted lines, rear brakes (tuff job), bad brake line, regulator, filters, two broken tank straps, etc. for the past 6 weeks! This baby will practically NEW by the time I'm done! I'll let you guys know how it went and if the nut kit was the problem...

Jon

Well, mo-fo. I took the old nut kit out and found the (I think) the return line (the one facing the front of the engine on the passenger side) had a crack near the line coupling & that this line was also LYING AGAINST the #5 injector line. This caused a big time rub spot that also showed signs of a leak. Fixed! Right? Nope. I got it all back together (it actually went pretty smooth - that torx screw that hols the bracket for the nut kit AND the lines freed right up!), cranked it and it fired - rather reluctantly, but it DID fire. I shut it off and tried it again & nope - just like before. I smelled some gas....I checked the lines - no leak....Now I guess I am just gonna have to face the fact that the CPI is bad - probably where it was rubbing against the nut kit line. I did a visual inspaection and did see signs of rubbing on it, but since the things get so damned nasty looking, I didn't "see" anything. I am pretty P-O'd about this as this engine has less than 50K on it & I bought a new spyder when I had them build this one. I don't think that the injector line should have EVER physically touched the nut kit line - am I correct? I mean they were tight against each other.....I am gonna "assume" this isn't the way it is supposed to be... am I correct? Please help me guys, this is REALLY frustrating. Only good thing is I can get the intake off in about 15 minutes NOW. I am depressed....I just wanna get my Jimmy back on the road after 6+ weeks of fighting various problems. I'm in for about $750 already and looking at another $350 for the new CPI. I'm gonna wait till Monday to see if I can get a discount on that, maybe save me a hundo or so (HOPEFULLY). I can post pix of the nut kit line that was bad if you guys can tell me how to....

Bummed....

Jon :(

Well, mo-fo. I took the old nut kit out and found the (I think) the return line (the one facing the front of the engine on the passenger side) had a crack near the line coupling & that this line was also LYING AGAINST the #5 injector line. This caused a big time rub spot that also showed signs of a leak. Fixed! Right? Nope. I got it all back together (it actually went pretty smooth - that torx screw that hols the bracket for the nut kit AND the lines freed right up!), cranked it and it fired - rather reluctantly, but it DID fire. I shut it off and tried it again & nope - just like before. I smelled some gas....I checked the lines - no leak....Now I guess I am just gonna have to face the fact that the CPI is bad - probably where it was rubbing against the nut kit line. I did a visual inspaection and did see signs of rubbing on it, but since the things get so damned nasty looking, I didn't "see" anything. I am pretty P-O'd about this as this engine has less than 50K on it & I bought a new spyder when I had them build this one. I don't think that the injector line should have EVER physically touched the nut kit line - am I correct? I mean they were tight against each other.....I am gonna "assume" this isn't the way it is supposed to be... am I correct? Please help me guys, this is REALLY frustrating. Only good thing is I can get the intake off in about 15 minutes NOW. I am depressed....I just wanna get my Jimmy back on the road after 6+ weeks of fighting various problems. I'm in for about $750 already and looking at another $350 for the new CPI. I'm gonna wait till Monday to see if I can get a discount on that, maybe save me a hundo or so (HOPEFULLY). I can post pix of the nut kit line that was bad if you guys can tell me how to....

Bummed....

Jon :(
gm procedure is very specific on being cautious when routing the spider. the gm book has very good pictures and diagrams. sounds to me like the install tech didn't route them exactly right and thats where the rubbing came from. if you got a warrantee for the install, maybe you can shame them into doing it right.:uhoh::sunglasse

excheezhead - I agree. Logic just tells me these lines were not supposed to be touching. I have to take some pix of this stuff and post 'em. I decided to cut some $10/foot really good fuel line split it, & slip it over the injector lines that were close - to add a buffer to the rubbing - but ALAS, I seem to have a screwed up spider assy. I KNOW everything else is OK - the spider assy is the absolute last thing I have to replace...damn. All else has been replaced but that $$$ thang. What really hacks me off is when I had a rebuilt engine installed (over 5K) I bought a new spider assy - but they didn't say I needed a nut kit. They basically supplied the small block and installed whatever I gave 'em for the upper part. One thing I can say about this ordeal - I am learning a LOT about these engines and am getting way to comfortable tearing them apart.... ;) Oh well, I guess I'll have to bite the bullit and replace that POS and - *** hopefully*** that will be the end of this ordeal. I'll let u guys know....ug....

excheezhead - I agree. Logic just tells me these lines were not supposed to be touching. I have to take some pix of this stuff and post 'em. I decided to cut some $10/foot really good fuel line split it, & slip it over the injector lines that were close - to add a buffer to the rubbing - but ALAS, I seem to have a screwed up spider assy. I KNOW everything else is OK - the spider assy is the absolute last thing I have to replace...damn. All else has been replaced but that $$$ thang. What really hacks me off is when I had a rebuilt engine installed (over 5K) I bought a new spider assy - but they didn't say I needed a nut kit. They basically supplied the small block and installed whatever I gave 'em for the upper part. One thing I can say about this ordeal - I am learning a LOT about these engines and am getting way to comfortable tearing them apart.... ;) Oh well, I guess I'll have to bite the bullit and replace that POS and - *** hopefully*** that will be the end of this ordeal. I'll let u guys know....ug.... I may just call and give 'em hell about this...