Best BOV for 14b

im looking to get a new BOV for my 1g GST but im wondering which one is the best and yet wont cost me a arm and a leg to buy,

i seen some on ebay are these any good ? let me know thanks

any reason you want to change? The 1g bov is pretty good. You could just crush yours if you want to run boost in excess of what it can handle.

any reason you want to change? The 1g bov is pretty good. You could just crush yours if you want to run boost in excess of what it can handle.

what is crush bov mean ? , Most of 1g bov I saw it say Uncrush, some say crush,

When you "crush" a 1g bov it can hold somewhere around 21-22 psi.

SInce the first gen's is metal you can crush it with the following technique:

"One DIY solution proposed to fix this problem is to crush the BOV. This means exactly what it says - stick the valve into a vise or clamp and squish it so it doesn't open as early. This is really a cheap & dirty method of increasing the spring force holding the BOV shut, and saves the operator from having to install an expensive aftermarket BOV. This techique can, however, restrict the amount of air that can pass through the BOV when it is wide open, making it a less efficient BOV, and therefore not as good as an aftermarket unit. All of this theory was explained by Todd Hayashi in his August 31/99 post on the subject. A follow-up summary post by Robert Mangus can be found here." - 1000 faq

When you "crush" a 1g bov it can hold somewhere around 21-22 psi.

SInce the first gen's is metal you can crush it with the following technique:

"One DIY solution proposed to fix this problem is to crush the BOV. This means exactly what it says - stick the valve into a vise or clamp and squish it so it doesn't open as early. This is really a cheap & dirty method of increasing the spring force holding the BOV shut, and saves the operator from having to install an expensive aftermarket BOV. This techique can, however, restrict the amount of air that can pass through the BOV when it is wide open, making it a less efficient BOV, and therefore not as good as an aftermarket unit. All of this theory was explained by Todd Hayashi in his August 31/99 post on the subject. A follow-up summary post by Robert Mangus can be found here." - 1000 faq

thanks.

I have posted the actual technique on this site in the past. It involves using a vacuum pump/gauge (like a MightyVac one man bleeder), and compressing the valve slowly, bit by bit, in a vice, and testing it often. You want it to juust lift off the seat at about 19"hg of vac on the top nipple.

Look up the procedure for "Gus Modding" a 1g BOV if you want to take it one step further. Ideally you would do this with an uncrushed BOV so you get the full benefit in fast release mode. I run the 1g BOV this way in the 2g and now in the EVO as well. It holds as tight as the previous BOV installed backwards. In other words, it simply doesn't open as long as boost is supplied to the upper port. Unlike a backwards BOV however, it will open when you let off. Poeple have leak tested this modded BOV to over 35 psi, and in theory it would hold indefinitely. There used to be instructions on Gus' page at www.thedodgegarage.com or one of the links off that page. You can buy this commercially from Dejon Tool, they call it the leak stop mod or something. Another interesting twist is the ability to use DSMlink's nitrous controls to operate the BOV. Pretty slick. I found a way to do this mod using all NPT fittings, rather than the old skool epoxied brake line technique, but it's not easy. I might be willing to do these for poeple if you a) are not a douchebag, and b) can do without your BOV for a couple weeks, for the cost of the parts. It's a worthwhile mod, and I can't say enough about it. It's perfect expecially for smaller turbos that don't require a high flow valve like a Tial and all the headaches that come along with using them.