95 neon

Well heres a shot in the dark , picked up a 95 neon for 500 bucks. Was hit with by a dear and then they couldnt get it to start so dumped it on me. With some work i cleared up lots of problems such as
New battery
New Computer
New Bat cables
New starter x2 first was deffective

after all this car went from nada with turn of the key to a full powered crank and spark at the plugs , fuel is pumping nicely but it wont start.

I havent run the codes yet, plan to on Monday but in the mean time any suggestions ? Dont mind spending some money on it but i have to get it running before i can fix the superficial damage the deer did ( windshield and passenger mirror )

IM getting a code 12 and 55
thought there would be more for sure

So it cranks but will not turn over?

Cranks , there is spark to the plugs and there is a fuel smell however i havnt checked presure at the schrader valve. and the belt was replaced before i bought it, no more then 20k ago, fuel pump relay is good ,and fuses are good

i havnt checked presure at the schrader valveThat would be my next step.

i would also verify crank/cam signal is good (atleast in later 90s neons, not 100% sure about teh 95. however, same idea goes for distributor if applicable). that is where the vehicle gets the signal as to fire what signal.

basically make sure teh car isnt out of phase

OK with some work last night i found that the intake was basically *flooded* id say over 2 litres of rotten gas , sucked that out and it more or less fired up , is still running like a bag o crap but its a start , im figuring the tank is full of it too so changing out the filter tonight.

there's no such thing as rotton gas. gas only becomes only more potent racing fuel, there's such thing as bad mixture though, but i don't know too much about that.

8.6 What is "stale" fuel, and should I use it?

"Stale" fuel is caused by improper storage, and usually smells sour. The
gasoline has been allowed to get warm, thus catalysing olefin decomposition
reactions, and perhaps also losing volatile material in unsealed containers.
Such fuel will tend to rapidly form gums, and will usually have a significant
reduction in octane rating. The fuel can be used by blending with twice the
volume of new gasoline, but the blended fuel should be used immediately,
otherwise teh old fuel will catalyse rapid decomposition of the new,
resulting in even larger quantities of stale fuel. Some stale fuels can drop
several octane numbers, so be generous with the dilution.

http://science.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=gasoline.htm&url=http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/

Right from a horses mouth other then my own, the old gas from my car is now killing unwanted grass in my driveway.

well i did tell i didn't know everything about it, i humble enough to accept correction when it's nessesary.

8.6 What is "stale" fuel, and should I use it?

"Stale" fuel is caused by improper storage, and usually smells sour. The
gasoline has been allowed to get warm, thus catalysing olefin decomposition
reactions, and perhaps also losing volatile material in unsealed containers.
Such fuel will tend to rapidly form gums, and will usually have a significant
reduction in octane rating. The fuel can be used by blending with twice the
volume of new gasoline, but the blended fuel should be used immediately,
otherwise teh old fuel will catalyse rapid decomposition of the new,
resulting in even larger quantities of stale fuel. Some stale fuels can drop
several octane numbers, so be generous with the dilution.

http://science.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?parent=gasoline.htm&url=http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/

Right from a horses mouth other then my own, the old gas from my car is now killing unwanted grass in my driveway.

You sure seem to know a lot about gas...lol. I'd certainly change the filter. If it's not part of the problem it certainly can't be good after all the crap.

You sure seem to know a lot about gas...lol. .

My wife would agree with you on that one =)

Mine did the exact same thing the problem is still a question.I had a diog done and dealer said it was timing.Among other problems i changed the timing belt water pump and both belts.turned the key and it fired right up.(after 3-4 secs)This is my prob now!! checked timing again and its right on!! I touch a screw driver to my comp disconnecting my battery.I bought an OB2 and it would not read anything ERROR is what it said.I dont know?the manual said there was a prolem with the connection between the OB2 and the comp. thats as far as I have gotten......

Is your car standard or automatic? I have a 1995 standard.

Here's a pic of me on my maiden voyage after replacing the clutch and clutch cable myself.
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/wnt2rd/img/08voyage.jpg

Here's a pic of how the voyage concluded:
http://home.hawaii.rr.com/wnt2rd/img/08voyage1.jpg

Solved the problem by cleaning the battery terminals.

Got any pics of your 95? Does it still have paint (unlike mine)?

i have the same car except its white base model only upgrade it had was an auto tranny :(
but all need is an ecu then I can switch to stick :) you wont get any codes since you switched pcms haha i cant see why the pcm would go they normally last a long time

its manual.....ijust realized what I wrote!!....When i accidently touched the screw driver to the comp it complete the circut (pos to the comp) and sparks galore.I had hoped for the best but I still went on to do the timing belt.I brought the OB2 after this to check for damage.ERROR messaged is what i got so thats why i figured the comp had been effected.

For WOLFS problem check the timing!!!!

LOL hate trips that end that way , my hood is banged up good from the deer the previous owner took out , and i painted the bumpers and moulding black to match my black headlights other then that the car is in pretty decent shape , ill get a picture one day and throw it up here. And sadly its an auto , got it for the cheep gas mileage.