Looking at buying a Stealth.

I like my Sebring and all, but the fact is, it's slow. So I'm going to sell it and buy a TT Stealth for my daily driver. I've read through the FAQ and I have just a few questions.

1. How hard is it to change out the lash adjusters? I know that if I'm going to buy a Stealth then I have no choice as I'm going to have the lifter tick problem. Also, if I do it myself, how much am I looking at?

2. I prefer the first gen and I like the styling more. However, I am curious about dirveability and performance pros and cons with the five speed vs. the six speed.

3. Lastly, know anyone that wants a 98' Sebring? :icon16:

I like my Sebring and all, but the fact is, it's slow. So I'm going to sell it and buy a TT Stealth for my daily driver. I've read through the FAQ and I have just a few questions.

1. How hard is it to change out the lash adjusters? I know that if I'm going to buy a Stealth then I have no choice as I'm going to have the lifter tick problem. Also, if I do it myself, how much am I looking at?

2. I prefer the first gen and I like the styling more. However, I am curious about dirveability and performance pros and cons with the five speed vs. the six speed.

3. Lastly, know anyone that wants a 98' Sebring? :icon16:

1. i don't know of anyone on here that has changed their lifters yet. i know BlinkRA182 has purchased the 99 style lifters, but has yet to swap in the new ones. if you are really worried about lifter tick...don't. it just comes and goes. if it does come, do an oil change, and if that doesn't fix it and its unbearable (that is you can actually hear it over your spooling turbos and loud engine), then get the 99 lifters.

as for install, i've ran across some helpful threads that can guide you in the right direction:

here's a write-up by Jeff Lucius--> www.stealth316.com/misc/installing_new_lifters.doc

valve spring compressor tool (make your own)--> http://www.3si.org/forum/showthread.php?t=159640&page=1&pp=10

valve spring compressor to purchase--> http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004243&productId=2004243&langId=-1&catalogId=10101

more info--> http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=178189&highlight=lifter+tick

info--> http://www.team3s.com/FAQliftertick.htm

and in the FAQ thread, i've listed some resources to purchase lifters for around 220-300 bucks.


2. 5spd vs. 6spd? as far as driveability is concerned, they're both fine. yes, the 6spd will give you a tad better gas mileage on the highway. if your looking into making big power and launching your car repeatedly from 6k rpm, then the 6spd has a stronger transfercase. however, the 5spd has better gearing for the 1/4 mile. but these differences aren't noticeable unless you drive the crap out of it and are making around 500awhp. so for your daily driver, the 1st gen 5spd would be fine.

3. '98 sebring? i'll pass. i'll keep my 3000.

I'm not too worried about the lifter tick. My project car is a Turbo II LeBaron so I'm used to it. I was just under the impression it was common to change the lash adjusters to the newer ones. Also, once the LeBaron is done I will make this Stealth my project and start making it faster and I may get it up to 500AWHP. However, I'm not concerned with the 1/4 mile. I like the twisties.

Thanks for the info. :)

changing the lifters isnt that hard...i just havnt gotten around to it because; 1, i cant work on it when the weathers bad. and 2, when the weathers nice, i wanna drive it, not work on it lol. Plan for the car being down for a day though, maybe less if you have a friend and know what your doing. As for price, i got my set for $114 shipped from a group-buy on 3si. Like Linebckr said though, i wouldnt worry about it unless its ticking really bad. Just keep up on your oil changes. (mines not ticking at all...im just anal :grinno:)

As for your second question, Linebckr nailed it. If you like the first gen style AND plan on making big horsepower, go with a 1993, as they upgraded some internals and went to a 4-bolt main for 93 and up twin turbos. But that only matters if you plan on making 500+ horses.

As for the Sebring...i need a new winter beater, but im not driving to Utah to get it lol. Good luck with the sale.

hey, poly want a stealth? lol

honestly you might not even have lifter tick, its a hit and miss with these cars
i have it, but the only time it occurs is when my oil is low, wich i now like the tick as it gives me warning

as for the twisties, well we dont have to tell ya, your gonna wanna do some weight reduction
but it handles fairly well...i'm sure you've done your research and already know most of this..good luck with your search
when testing out your stealths, check for gear grinding

hey, poly want a stealth? lol

honestly you might not even have lifter tick, its a hit and miss with these cars
i have it, but the only time it occurs is when my oil is low, wich i now like the tick as it gives me warning

as for the twisties, well we dont have to tell ya, your gonna wanna do some weight reduction
but it handles fairly well...i'm sure you've done your research and already know most of this..good luck with your search
when testing out your stealths, check for gear grinding

Thanks for the tips guys.

Yeah, I knew about the weight problem, but that's alright. I had a friend with a 92' TT and it was heavily modified under the hood with some light suspension work and I had trouble breaking it loose doing some canyon carving. Too bad he sold it to some guy for $8,500. I would have bought it!!

Cool. Poly wants a Stealth. Are you strictly looking for a Stealth or possibly a 3kgt too? Well, best of luck too.

Are you strictly looking for a Stealth or possibly a 3kgt too?

Stealth > 3000gt:p

Stealth > 3000gt:p

Have to agree. I prefer the styling of the Stealth over the 3000GT, plus I'm not paying $3,000 - $5,000 more for the same thing.

HA! You just want to still have a car that when people see it they think its still a mopar. For shame! Good day Polygon..........I SAID GOOD DAY!

But seriously, I have seen Stealths that were going for 1/2 of what my car was in similar condition. That is because 3kgt's hold their value much better than Stealths do. So depending on how long your going to keep the car, I would think the 3kgt would be your better bet if you were planning on having it for a while.

HA! You just want to still have a car that when people see it they think its still a mopar. For shame! Good day Polygon..........I SAID GOOD DAY!

But seriously, I have seen Stealths that were going for 1/2 of what my car was in similar condition. That is because 3kgt's hold their value much better than Stealths do. So depending on how long your going to keep the car, I would think the 3kgt would be your better bet if you were planning on having it for a while.

Nah, I tell people that my Sebring is a Mitsu. I don't care. However, I know that it won't hold it's value but I don't buy project cars to sell them. The LeBaron and whatever Stealth I buy will never be sold.

Stealths value will go back up, it will take time though..not to mention they are quite a bit rarer then 3000gts

but the 3000 is an import, so its value will always be greater than the Stealth, a domestic. ya, ppl are stupid and it should be based on rarity, but if it does happen like you said, it won't be for quite a while.

Stealth is not a domestic. It is an import thru and thru.

And Its not that Stealths dont hold their value as much. Its the fact the 3000GT sold for more when new.

And Poly your Sebring alot Mitsubishi. Its more Mitsu than it is DC.

sort of off topic...im just curious, do stealth VINs start with J too? I know they were all made in Nagoya...just curious. There any insurance price difference between the two? hmmm...im gonna go do a geico quote! lol

on subject; Yea i think stealth value will rise in the not too distant future too.

Yes the Stealth VIN starts with J

im hoping 10 years it will start to go back up :wink:

And Poly your Sebring alot Mitsubishi. Its more Mitsu than it is DC.

Oh, I know. I have yet to find a Chrysler part on it. It was assembled in Japan as far as I know. Hell, the interior came from a DSM. :)

The Sebring was assembled in Normal IL.;) It is essentially a DSM.

I'm having trouble finding a 93' TT for a good price. Am I really that worse off buying a 91' or 92'?

Not really, but they made alot less 93 TTs, So it will be tougher to find a nice one.

I'm having trouble finding a 93' TT for a good price. Am I really that worse off buying a 91' or 92'?

only if you plan to push 500+ hp. But i hear there are people who have had close to 700hp on the 2-bolt, with no issues....

better safe than sorry though:2cents:

No one to date has broken a 6g72 just for the sole reason that they were using a 2 bolt. IPO made sick power on a 2 bolt, NA block, with stock 10:1 pistons. When he finally grenaded that engine on a dumb ass mistake he reused the block and went with stock 8:1 pistons and made yet mroe sick power. Hes one of many. Monet makes outrageous power on 2 bolts as well.

^trust stealthee...that dude is smucking fart! :icon16:

Hmm, in that case I won't limit myself to a 93'. Didn't they do the switchover in June of 92' though? So I could find a 92 1/2' and get the four bolt as long as it was manufactured after June.

If I remember correct that is the case. Also the 92 1/2 got the 25 spline t case.

^trust stealthee...that dude is smucking fart! :icon16:


are you wucking fasted:cheers: right now ????:iceslolan


yeap, and didn't they go with forged internals in 92.5 also, or was that not until 93....

are you wucking fasted:cheers: right now ????:iceslolan


yeap, and didn't they go with forged internals in 92.5 also, or was that not until 93....

lol...i wasnt wasted...but i was on my way :thumbsup:

yea, i Believe the 92 1/2 got a forged crank in place of the cast one of the pre-June models.

VVV Directly from Stealth316.com VVV

"The DOHC 6G72 is an extremely strong engine, with an alloy steel block and aluminum alloy heads, and is capable of delivering well over 500 HP with turbocharging. As good as the first versions of the engine were, Mitsubishi decided to make the engine even stronger in 1993 models (starting with June 1992 production-date cars) giving it a 4-bolt main bearing cap girdle (the original used 2-bolt caps with stiffening stays on the middle 4 bolts) and a nitrided-steel crankshaft (the original was cast iron or mild steel). Mitsubishi made other changes, most significant of which was moving the crank and cam angle sensors from the left head (where it was user-adjustable for timing) and into the block (not adjustable). Major lower-engine parts that remained the same include the piston and pin assembly [MD307972 is listed as the standard-size replacement for all years] and the forged-steel connecting rod assembly [MD131329 is the only part number listed for all years]. Because the newer nitrided-steel crankshaft [MD318150] is listed as the replacement part for all years, it is possible to upgrade the "2-bolt" blocks with the better crankshaft (~$600-800 new). Clevite 77 bearings are an excellent choice to upgrade the stock main and rod bearings. As long as you have the engine apart, you might consider upgrading to forged aluminum pistons"

How much would it be to have the motor rebuilt? I only ask because I found a cheap TT but the engine has developed rod knock. I was curious if it was worth it to buy the car and have the engine rebuilt.

bout $2600 round here

bout $2600 round here

Hmm, there has to be a catch then.

Well, the Sebring is gone. Sold and the guy just left with it. I have my eye on two Stealths right now. One is a 91' with 81k but he doesn't know for sure if the 60k service was done or not. He is asking $6,500 and the car looks great. The other is a 92' with 120,000k but has meticulous records for all maintenance including the 60k and 120k services. He is asking almost $9,000. Should I pass the 91' based on that one small fact? I just worry that I can't talk the other guy down enough to where I could afford the car.

IMO $9000 is too much for a 92 with 120k. I have seen well maintained 93 VR4's with around 70-90k go for around 10k. The 92 is worth $7500 at the most.

i would go for the '91, and since you don't know if the 60k has been done, do it yourself. it will give you invaluable knowledge how these cars work, and experience with maintenance is always a good thing.