98 Blazer Rear Caliper stuck

I have a 1998 Blazer and the rear driverside caliper is stuck. I have changed the brakes, pads, and rotors last summer, but I have never changed a caliper before. I already purchased the caliper for it, but I am looking for some tips on how to change it. I know that I'll also have to do the pads on both rears as well. I have ABS on this vehicle and after some research I am concerned about bleeding the brakes. I am a little confused on how to do this.

Any tips on how to change a caliper?

Do I need to bleed the brakes before or can I just remove the break line from the old and attach it to the new caliper right away and bleed them after to remove any air?

Welcom to the forum! If you haven't got one get yourself a repair manual like Haynes etc. While they aren't perfect they do have a lot of good info in them - and you will need one if you have a Blazer!!:iceslolan


Calipers are a snap and are very common problems on the Blazers. You simply disconnect the caliper from the line at the banjo bolt and attach the new one. There are 2 copper washers - one on each side of the brake line. Make sure you remove the old ones, clean the surfaces and install the new ones that came with the caliper. You'll need to remember how the line sits on the caliper too - it's easy to get it turned around or upside down once it's disconnected. I can't remember the torque for the banjo. I'll look it up but I'm sure someone else will beat me to the punch. You will need to bleed the side you're working on. I finally bought a vaccum pump and it was the best $28 I've spent! No more "helpers" on break jobs!!

Change both sides now, and as muzzy said its easy, but take the slide pins out with the rubber boot and grease them. For about $55 each a "loaded" caliper comes with a rebuilt caliper, the pads, bracket, slides, and it bolts right in - this is the easiest option and cheapest if any other part needs replacing they cost much more separately. Bleed the pass rear first then the drivers side. The rotors may be trash now too due to the caliper or heat so check them now - do it right once and save yourself the headaches. Been there a few times.

Change both sides now, and as muzzy said its easy, but take the slide pins out with the rubber boot and grease them. For about $55 each a "loaded" caliper comes with a rebuilt caliper, the pads, bracket, slides, and it bolts right in - this is the easiest option and cheapest if any other part needs replacing they cost much more separately. Bleed the pass rear first then the drivers side. The rotors may be trash now too due to the caliper or heat so check them now - do it right once and save yourself the headaches. Been there a few times.

I haven't seen the loaded calipers. Autozone sells the passenger caliper for about $37 and the drivers for $62 + core. I like your price better.

Thanks for all the replies.

The slides are froze up,common problem.I have one tip about the new copper washers,reuse the old ones,throw them away and screw the torque spec for the banjo bolt.They do not seal up and leak and no one ever torques a banjo bolt.I reuse the old washers over and they do not leak so far

The slides are froze up,common problem.I have one tip about the new copper washers,reuse the old ones,throw them away and screw the torque spec for the banjo bolt.They do not seal up and leak and no one ever torques a banjo bolt.I reuse the old washers over and they do not leak so far

That's may be ok if they're intact. Mine fell apart. The whole purpose of the washers is to compress and seal.