a/c - overheat - PL stuck
ahdi7
05-22-2006, 05:29 PM
when my ac is on and the car is not moving the car starts to overheat but when the car is moving(driving on highway) the ac is cold as ice. i put some more fluid in but what do i know. what needs to be done.
Also i just had my actuator changed for my driver side 3 months ago. since then the driver side power locks stays in the up position, cannot be forced down. so basicly my door is always unlocked. i need to get this fixed asap. bad installation? or is the actuator gone again
Also i just had my actuator changed for my driver side 3 months ago. since then the driver side power locks stays in the up position, cannot be forced down. so basicly my door is always unlocked. i need to get this fixed asap. bad installation? or is the actuator gone again
steelerguy
05-25-2006, 02:05 PM
when my ac is on and the car is not moving the car starts to overheat but when the car is moving(driving on highway) the ac is cold as ice. i put some more fluid in but what do i know. what needs to be done.
Also i just had my actuator changed for my driver side 3 months ago. since then the driver side power locks stays in the up position, cannot be forced down. so basicly my door is always unlocked. i need to get this fixed asap. bad installation? or is the actuator gone again
Don't know how hot your area is, but here in Phoenix AZ my temp stays below the halfway point until the outside temp hits about 105. At that point, the temp could go over the halfway point put stay well below the red. Going on the highway will normally cool the system as long as you're not towing a heavy load. Get a Haynes manual as the troubleshooting for overheating is easy to followed but too detailed for me to remember.
Getting a complete drain & flush of the cooling system is always a good idea & a $5 investment in a new thermostat is smart. Labor is probably $30 but should be no more than $10. You want all of the old fluid removed from the engine, not just the radiator. To do that, they pretty much have to pull the thermostat while its being done, so change it.
Price around & find out if all the old fluid and a flush with a flush solution will be done. It takes a while, but is not rocket science. Most of the time is waiting for the engine to cool down before putting in replacement water & antifreeze. Otherwise, you can crack the engine block.
It's worth the extra money for a reputable place that will take the time to do it right.
Can't help you with the actuator. Sorry.
Also i just had my actuator changed for my driver side 3 months ago. since then the driver side power locks stays in the up position, cannot be forced down. so basicly my door is always unlocked. i need to get this fixed asap. bad installation? or is the actuator gone again
Don't know how hot your area is, but here in Phoenix AZ my temp stays below the halfway point until the outside temp hits about 105. At that point, the temp could go over the halfway point put stay well below the red. Going on the highway will normally cool the system as long as you're not towing a heavy load. Get a Haynes manual as the troubleshooting for overheating is easy to followed but too detailed for me to remember.
Getting a complete drain & flush of the cooling system is always a good idea & a $5 investment in a new thermostat is smart. Labor is probably $30 but should be no more than $10. You want all of the old fluid removed from the engine, not just the radiator. To do that, they pretty much have to pull the thermostat while its being done, so change it.
Price around & find out if all the old fluid and a flush with a flush solution will be done. It takes a while, but is not rocket science. Most of the time is waiting for the engine to cool down before putting in replacement water & antifreeze. Otherwise, you can crack the engine block.
It's worth the extra money for a reputable place that will take the time to do it right.
Can't help you with the actuator. Sorry.
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