Suspension/Steering Questions

'97 4.3L AWD

I will be replacing a bad factory driver side upper ball joint soon and have decided to replace all (4) factory ball joints with Moog ball joints (found each ball joint was $10 cheaper at O'Reilly vs Advanced Auto). While the ball joints are out, I will be replacing the upper and lower control arm bushings with an Energy Suspension bushing set I ordered thru Advanced Auto. Eventually, I will be replacing some marginal sway bar end links (along with the sway bar bushings), then the inner and outer tie rod ends.

Questions:
1. Are the Moog tie rod ends worth the extra $$ or will the TRW tie rod ends provide equivalent performance?

2. The Chilton book makes a reference to using a special tool to unload the torsion bar before removing/replacing the sway bar. How is this performed and what tool do I need to look for? or will jack stands under the control arms work for this purpose?

TIA

'97 4.3L AWD

I will be replacing a bad factory driver side upper ball joint soon and have decided to replace all (4) factory ball joints with Moog ball joints (found each ball joint was $10 cheaper at O'Reilly vs Advanced Auto). While the ball joints are out, I will be replacing the upper and lower control arm bushings with an Energy Suspension bushing set I ordered thru Advanced Auto. Eventually, I will be replacing some marginal sway bar end links (along with the sway bar bushings), then the inner and outer tie rod ends.

Questions:
1. Are the Moog tie rod ends worth the extra $$ or will the TRW tie rod ends provide equivalent performance?

2. The Chilton book makes a reference to using a special tool to unload the torsion bar before removing/replacing the sway bar. How is this performed and what tool do I need to look for? or will jack stands under the control arms work for this purpose?

TIA

TRW is owned by moog...Same production, warranties, different names...

For unloading, simply put the frame on stands and you'll be fine. No special tools needed (even if you were replacing the tbars themselves). Use a pickle fork and hammer to seperate the balljoints from the knuckles, and use a grinder or air chisel to remove the upper OEM rivets.

'97 4.3L AWD


Questions:
1. Are the Moog tie rod ends worth the extra $$ or will the TRW tie rod ends provide equivalent performance?

2. The Chilton book makes a reference to using a special tool to unload the torsion bar before removing/replacing the sway bar. How is this performed and what tool do I need to look for? or will jack stands under the control arms work for this purpose?

TIA

Federal Mogul is in Livonia, Michigan and is the parent company of both Moog and TRW. Same stuff, same warranty, different box, different price.

Don't change the torsion bar adjustment. Even the slightest adjustment will change alignment angles substantially. Leave that for the alignment technician after you replace the control arm bushings. Like Rlith says, support by the frame and replace the sway bar bushings and end links.

Thanks for the help. I've removed the upper control arm and fitted new poly bushings but I'm confused on how to remove the torsion bar so that the lower control arm can be removed and new bushings installed. can't seem to find the step-by-step idiots guide and need some more advice.

Thanks

Thanks for the help. I've removed the upper control arm and fitted new poly bushings but I'm confused on how to remove the torsion bar so that the lower control arm can be removed and new bushings installed. can't seem to find the step-by-step idiots guide and need some more advice.

Thanks


Underneath your doors at the end of the torsion bars you will see some keys w/ bolts through them. Remove it while the front of the truck is jacked up off the ground.

Once the keys are removed, you need to bang out the torsion bars from the lower control arm (a hammer will be fine, once it starts moving, spray some wd40 or any good penetrating lube in there and it will come of easily)

Remove the lower control arms.

Please not, after you've done all this work, you will need to get your truck aligned.

Few more questions related to torsion bar adjustment and tie rods.

Left-side upper ball joint bad (replaced w/ moog)
Left-side upper control arm bushings bad (replaced w/ energy suspension)
Left-side sway bar end links almost non-existent (replaced w/ energy suspension)
While disassembled, also replaced lower ball joint, lower control arm bushings, and installed new KYB shocks (oem was on marginal side).

Right-side was still in fair condition on all parts but bought everything for both sides including the sway bar bushings.

Noticed that left torsion bar adjustment screw is almost fully bottomed out, while the right side is barely half way screwed in - no doubt the reason the right-side front of the vehicle is almost 1-1/2 inches higher than the left.

I believe the "misadjustment" on the torsion bar caused earlier failure of the suspension components (ball joint, control arm bushing, sway bar end links) on the left-side and want to "reset" to factory ride height BEFORE getting an alignment. I also suspect a lazy tech used the torsion bar for alignment instead of the upper control arm cams. In any case, what is the factory specified ride height?

Also, since the tie rod ends look to be in good shape, I was contemplating only installing new Energy Suspension Tie Rod Boots. Has anyone used these with success?

Thanks for the help.

You're on the right track and it sounds like you have the situation under control. The only place I have seen ride height specs is in the factory service manual. Aftermarket manuals don't include that information because it's not normally a user serviceable adjustment. The vehicle needs to be perfectly level front to rear and side to side when checking and adjusting. The best place to do this is on an alignment rack that has be leveled with a transit. Ride height must be adjusted BEFORE the alignment. Hope this helps.