B16 swap progress

OK guys my motor finally arrived yesterday and i did some work on it. I installed my header, took off the ac bracket and compressor, and the power steering pump. My old d16 looks like such a little bitch next to it lol. The stupid company forgot to send me my motor mounts and shift linkage so ive got to wait another week till i get those. Do you guys kno how im going to get the harnesses to meet up? ive got part of the b16 harness on the motor, and my d16 on the old one. will i have to combine them or what? i know theres a lot of threads on this, but i just need to find out so i can get everything to match up and then wire the vtec. I'm happy its finally here but the wiring is intimidating me since i kno nothin about it. Ill put the pics up in a little bit ive got to go to work.

you can use your old harness for the engine to run off of then you can do the vtec seprate so there isny and hacking or stuff like that. you will need some wire and extra ecu pins i believe. i am doing my vtec wiring right now also

that jdm harness is basically trash to you, all you need of is is the plugs for knock, 2nd o2, vtec solenoid, and vtec pressure sensor.

you will need to swap the d16 harness onto the b16.

Yeah your d16 is MPFI, use it..plug and play, except for the above mentioned sensors, for which you'll need to run seperate wires..but you can make a small harness with them so itll stay clean looking and simple, its really very easy, and shouldnt intimidate you at all.

like he said :iagree:

ok ill try and get workin on it soon. the speedometer cable hookup on the b16 has two lines running next to it and i have no idea what theyre for. the d16 didnt have any lines next it and theres a few other questionable spots that i dont kno what they go to. i have the d16 sittin next to it so i can just relate what hoses hook where. it sucks that im at school and have to drive 30 mins just to work on my car..i just want to drive!! i think the company that sent me the engine sent me two of the same axles. shouldnt the driver side axle be longer than the passesnger like the ones i took out??

anyone got some links on how to run the wiring? i need some pictures so once i pull the harness off the d16 i can just look at them and figure out what else i need to run. thanks for the help guys ill keep ya updated.

The speedo drive on an SI-R is electronic..you cant use it, youll need the mechanical cable drive one...and the axles, they are about the same length, the d-series doesnt have an intermediate shaft between the drivers axle and trans, so it is longer. Youll need to put the intermediate shaft into the car. The axles are different, but they are not vastly sifferent lengths.

k then they definately forgot to send me the halfshaft then frodo..DAMN! now ive gotta call them again and tell them to send me that..this place is retarded i think, they have an invoice but forget?? to send it.

http://static.flickr.com/52/150584818_a5cc9b6a69_m.jpg

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fresh off the truck..

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is there a better ecu for my engine? has anyone found a good chip for this one?? ive never put in a chip and dont really plan on usin one but if it improves my timing i will.

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i didnt realize the stock header weighed so much..that thing is over twice as heavy as the polished one.

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installed new header and gasket..attached some lines..its lookin really good!! i had bosch platinums on my old engine would they work for this engine? im gonna get new plugs and wires anyways. removed power steering pump and ac components. still need to take the ac components out of my engine bay.

http://static.flickr.com/46/150584817_01b3ff7ba0_m.jpg

alright heres the pic of the speedo cable insert..should i just remove those two small lines coming out right there or cap them? i need to take that little piece of shift linkage out but cant figure out how..i kno theres a safety clip but how does the pin come off theres no space above it?

I wouldnt cap them, and Ill tell you why...Inside is a pump, much like an oil pump, it has two "gears" that are normally saturated with fluid...when they arent hooked up, thay run fry, and sieze..just like mine did, this causes the transmission to push it sideways until the drive cracked at the shaft..and then clicked and ground on the gear in the transmission, which would not turn so I also had no speedo, it just made 1/4 turn and popped back. They are for reactive power steering, which you dont have...It changes the PS depending on speed. Open the top of the drive and remove the outer gear, mine siezed to the case. Then put a litlle grease in there and cap the lines. The things you do now will determine what your headaches will be later. BTW, the shaft wasnt bent so I had the aluminum case welded and I still use it today :)

Edit* The PR3 is a fine ECU and there are plenty of chips for it, actually there are onyl two viable ecu's that youll want to think about, the pr3 and the pw0. Most go for the pr3, but mine is a pw0