Check Engine Light

I have a 1997 Taurus with the V-6. The check engine soon light comes on now and then. I had Ford look at it and they said the catalytic convetor is bad but they charged so much to do these things that that place wont do them anymore. They also said that the Taurus is really bad for having this issue. The light still goes on every few weeks for a couple of days but then off for days or weeks. The car still runs and sounds great.

My question is, if I leave it go can I really hurt the engine? It doens't seem to be blocking any exhaust just a sensor saying it isn't working properly. If I started to hear or feel anything I would not wait to fix it. But if it isn't hurting anything why spend the money that I don't need to spend?

JPA

Most catalytic converters are replaced because the vehicle won't pass the emission test. If you don't have emission testing you can let it go.

Thanks, thats what I thought.

My mechanic tells me, that if the car is running OK, leave it alone.

Since you mention that the Check Engine Light (CEL) still comes on from time to time, it should have codes stored. Stop by AutoZone or a similar chain parts store and have the codes read. Most will do it for free. Get the exact codes that are stored and post them on this thread.

The dealer may have just given you a "worst case" guess as to what the problem might be. The code(s) may indicate something not so serious (like a bad/slow oxygen sensor).

-Rod

Thanks for all the input. I will get the codes read and post them this week.
Thanks,
Jeff

My question is, if I leave it go can I really hurt the engine? It doens't seem to be blocking any exhaust just a sensor saying it isn't working properly. If I started to hear or feel anything I would not wait to fix it. But if it isn't hurting anything why spend the money that I don't need to spend?

JPA
I bought a 96 Taurus and had the same issue, sometimes light comes on, sometimes it's off. (see the topic on the first page). I asked Ford Service the same question.They told me that it does not hurt the engine and I can still use the car as long as it does not completely fails. They said it could last for 3 months or even for 5-6 years, no way to tell how long.

And they said when it completely fails, the car probably can't go faster than 35-40 miles and then I'd have to replace it for sure.

"And they said when it completely fails, the car probably can't go faster than 35-40 miles and then I'd have to replace it for sure."

Be careful because what's happening is the exhaust is stopping up and it wouldn't suprise me if it burnt vavles. The minute I noticed a slow down or other indication I'd bite the bullet and have it fixed.

Thanks, thats what I'm thinking. When I have the time I am still going to get the codes read just to be sure.

I was under the impression that OBD-II wasn't suppose to allow a car to run at a complete cat failure.

An OBD-II car will have a flashing CEL if it detects a critical emissions fault. It often times will go into a "limp-in" mode, but won't completely fail due to the code by itself. Now if the exhaust catalyst gets completely plugged, then the car may fail to run, but not due to OBD-II.

-Rod

Just a quick question-does the car have and exhaust leak by chance? I saw several of these, some from other dealers looking for second opinions, that had codes for catalyst efficiency below threshold (which is almost always a cat). That body style Taurus was bad about cracking y-pipes at the juction where there's a cross-brace. This allows excess oxygen into the exhaust system before the catalytic convertor and can really mess up a HEGO reading. If that's your problem, you can cut the brace, weld the crack and replace the brace with a metal strap. I don't know if this is your problem or not, but I would definately check it before spending big bucks on a new cat. Good luck with it!

As a matter of fact it does have a very small leak at the brace. I had it repaired but it does sound like it is coming back. I never thought about removing the brace. I will and then strap it back up. thanks...

Found this link with prices and they not cheap but not a financial disaster. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/apw_cc/cat_basket.php?catalog=catalytic_converter&makeid=16&year=1997&modelid=631

Thanks for the link for thet catz.
JPA

Proud to oblige Sir and easy as Google 1-2-3. :wink:

I had the same prob when I firs got my 99. At that time I used speedway gas. The manual said the light can come on because of poor gas quality. Since then I only use sunoco or shell and the light hasn't come on since

My '96 did this to me one time, but when I cleared the code, it hasn't come back. Not sure if that was just electrical noise, but it hasn't done it since.

Next time the check engine light comes on don't clear it, leave it on and see if it doesn't turn itself off in a few days. All it has to do is misfire a few times from bad gas or whatever and the CEL comes on.

EDIT: wafredrick is correct and it's the catalyst that makes them so expensive.
"How Catalytic Converters Reduce Pollution.
Most modern cars are equipped with three-way catalytic converters. "Three-way" refers to the three regulated emissions it helps to reduce -- carbon monoxide, VOCs and NOx molecules. The converter uses two different types of catalysts, a reduction catalyst and an oxidation catalyst. Both types consist of a ceramic structure coated with a metal catalyst, usually platinum, rhodium and/or palladium. The idea is to create a structure that exposes the maximum surface area of catalyst to the exhaust stream, while also minimizing the amount of catalyst required (they are very expensive)."
Good explanation and pictures of the inside at How Stuff Works. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter.htm

As for the Ford OEM cat converter working better than aftermarket, . . . Can't say because I do not know, but someone said they get up to 2000 degrees and it a wonder they don't melt down.

Stay away from the aftermarket catalytic converter and do not throw away the old one catalytic converter out.Ford products run better with the factory Catalytic converter. There are guys buying them for the metals inside that go to auto salvage yards and shops.My father recieved $900.00 for a pile load of them from a buyer

Next time the check engine light comes on don't clear it, leave it on and see if it doesn't turn itself off in a few days. All it has to do is misfire a few times from bad gas or whatever and the CEL comes on.

EDIT: wafredrick is correct and it's the catalyst that makes them so expensive.
"How Catalytic Converters Reduce Pollution.
Most modern cars are equipped with three-way catalytic converters. "Three-way" refers to the three regulated emissions it helps to reduce -- carbon monoxide, VOCs and NOx molecules. The converter uses two different types of catalysts, a reduction catalyst and an oxidation catalyst. Both types consist of a ceramic structure coated with a metal catalyst, usually platinum, rhodium and/or palladium. The idea is to create a structure that exposes the maximum surface area of catalyst to the exhaust stream, while also minimizing the amount of catalyst required (they are very expensive)."
Good explanation and pictures of the inside at How Stuff Works. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/catalytic-converter.htm

As for the Ford OEM cat converter working better than aftermarket, . . . Can't say because I do not know, but someone said they get up to 2000 degrees and it a wonder they don't melt down.


When I cleared the code, I was mostly interested in if it would come back or not. Alabama doesn't have emissions laws, and I didn't want to keep staring at that check-engine light day after day, so I cleared the code. This would also help me detect when it came back.