I got my Brembo Rotors!

I got the OEM Brembo Rotors from Nopionline.com and ordered them Sunday night, got them Wednesday night! After inspection they are really really nice, I can't wait to put them on and test them out. They were $26 a piece.

Drilled slotted or just plain?


gunnmen01

Just plain. Most everyone says you don't even really need Slotted or Drilled with modern brakes and OEM type is good enough.

so the brembo rotors you got will work like slotted or cross drilled rotors?

No, he is saying that his new brembo rotors are more than adequate and slotted or cross drilled arent really needed.

Originally posted by Bleebdat
No, he is saying that his new brembo rotors are more than adequate and slotted or cross drilled arent really needed.

Exactly, as modern pads don't burn up rotors as much, and plus heat really isn't a probably cuz I have open rims.

but will those new rotors make a difference in braking

I bought Powerslot rotors this spring, and although they seemed a little more effective with my new AEM pads I bought with them than the OEM rotors and pads (in terms of non-lock-up braking power) , they warped a few months after installation...the same as the 3 different sets of Honda OEM rotors I have installed on this car.

Does anyone have/make/recommend a set of rotors that WILL NOT warp after a few thousand miles? My car feels like the front end is about to shake apart everytime I stop!!! :mad:

Originally posted by sastanley
I bought Powerslot rotors this spring, and although they seemed a little more effective with my new AEM pads I bought with them than the OEM rotors and pads (in terms of non-lock-up braking power) , they warped a few months after installation...the same as the 3 different sets of Honda OEM rotors I have installed on this car.

Does anyone have/make/recommend a set of rotors that WILL NOT warp after a few thousand miles? My car feels like the front end is about to shake apart everytime I stop!!! :mad:

More importantly the question you should be asking is what is causing them to warp? Are your pads spec for the application? Is your brake line have air bubbles or perhaps overfilled master cylinder? Something has to be causing your warping problems. I would try to get to the bottom of that.

Good point...What types of things cause rotors to warp? I don't have a spongy pedal, so I think the lines are OK...I don't have too much fluid..I always check that when I change the oil. The pads are spec for this car, and were purchased new with the rotors, also spec for this car.

I don't smash into curbs or drive the shit out of my car...any other suggestions??? :confused:

It may seem silly for me to ask, but you may not realize it unless you are specifically checking for this...

Do you rest one of your feet on the break pedal at all while you are driving? Please dont bite my head off for asking, you might want to drive around and make a concious effort to pay attention to this.

My brother when through a lot of brakes and rotors, and I rode with him one day and realized he rode the brake (just a little bit) but enough to make the brakes stay against the rotors and heat up, thus warping the rotors and wearing down the pads faster.

Thats all I can think of off the top of my head.. I am not sure what other factors could damage rotors.

Originally posted by sastanley
I bought Powerslot rotors this spring, and although they seemed a little more effective with my new AEM pads I bought with them than the OEM rotors and pads (in terms of non-lock-up braking power) , they warped a few months after installation...the same as the 3 different sets of Honda OEM rotors I have installed on this car.

Does anyone have/make/recommend a set of rotors that WILL NOT warp after a few thousand miles? My car feels like the front end is about to shake apart everytime I stop!!! :mad:

Just a thought....
have u checked ur master cylinder.... if the rod from ur pedal is adjusted 2 far out it will keep pressure on ur brakes.
Also it could be ur calipers.... if the pistons r worn they could b sticking and not releasing pressure fully causing drag.

Just some more things 2 think of.

LOL not to harp on his warped rotors issue, but also how are you driving(hard, autox, normal, etc...) And are you breaking your rotors/pads in correctly? AND if your rotors and pads are hot, and you are at a light if u keep the pedal pressed down this affects how fast they wear as well, just some more things to think about.

Over titening your lug nuts are also a way of warping rotors. I have had my powerslots for over one and a alf year and they are still as good as the day I bought them. I make sure that the Lug nuts are installed with a torque wrench and keep an eye on my rotors and pads. so far so good.

OK been there done that on the warpage deal. I trashed a set of stock disks with EBC pads, then a set of Powerstops and then a set of EBC TGDs. What I found out in my research is you need to go with the recommended pads for the rotors you're using if you want to be safe. Powerstop apparently says do not use ceramic or kevlar pads with their product (I found out too late). They also do not warrantee their product (it says so in the enclosed paperwork). I wrecked them with EBC green pads.

I then went with the EBC pads and EBC disks. They then warped. I got in contact with the big boss at EBC and explained my situation.

EBC came clean and said their pads were cooking disks so they changed to the new V4 compound and they also upgraded the alloy in their discs. They sent me new upgraded pads and disks (no charge of course).

EBC stands behind their product.

If habib88 is out there listening he's been through this mess too. It seems our little Hondas are a bit frail there when pads are intalled that generate some serious heat.

Hey everyone...sorry to jack this post...thanks for the replies. :bloated:

let's see if I can remember all the Q's -

I don't autocross... (I don't even race at all right now since I have 198K on my d15b2 and it has to get my sorry ass to work every day until I get the rebuilt ZC in :D)

I followed the break-in procedure pretty closely I think when I installed them (I had a looong trip right after I put them on, so I had lots of opportunities to heat 'em up and cool 'em down as instructed)...91zc has the same setup on his sedan and hasn't had any trouble...I have the $35 AEM pads with the $65 Powerslot (slotted only) rotors made for the sedan...(no oversized parts or upgrades)

I am a stickler about proper torque on lug nuts..I don't even take my car to tire shops any more because I thought they were the ones warping my shit with their air wrenches.....I have a buddy that mounts tires and I always torque the luggies by hand and with a torque wrench...

I don't ride the pedal...thanks for asking tho... ;) and I also don't think I have drag issues...I can easily spin the wheel when it is jacked up, and don't hear any dragging.

The pedal height seems OK..I would have to measure it to be sure tho...I will most likely get new rotors again when I finally put the ZC in (these were supposed to be saved for that and all of the work done at once but I couldn't wait :cool: ) - I will use my Helms to measure all that shit when I have it all apart....

So..with that in mind...right now I don't really think I want another set of Powerslots, unless they won't warp and I have some other problem causing my rotors to warp...If EBCs will work well and they stand behind their stuff...maybe I'll go that way...Any other recommendations? Can I resurface slotted rotors? My opinion on that is generally that it makes them even thinner, and more prone to warpage again....so I probably won't bother....and then I have to take it to a brake/tire shop and those fartknockers will prolly overtorque the lug nuts :flipa:
Yo, 90Civicrider...what kind of deals do you have on quality brakes/pads? You can PM me on that - thanks! ;)

Sorry for the long post and thanks for the help.. This board is great!
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