Oil Pan Replacement

Just can't patch it up anymore. My 1992 2.8 S-10's rusty oil pan has got to go. I've heard that you can simply raise the engine enough to get it out, but I doubt it. How much is involved with pulling the engine out enough to change. It's a 5 speed standard if that makes a difference.

If it's a 2wd you might not even have to raise it. I really don't know.

If it's a 4wd then you do have to raise it..... almost all the way out, and to the point where you may as well pull the motor.

Have fun

If it's a 2wd you might not even have to raise it. I really don't know.

If it's a 4wd then you do have to raise it..... almost all the way out, and to the point where you may as well pull the motor.

Have fun
I tied to replace it a couple yrs ago and couldn't because the frame is in the way. It is 2 wheel drive.

Then the easiest thing to do is remove the motormount bolts, front skid plate, and use a floor jack with a 2x4 on it to jack the motor up using the harmonic alancer (big thing that the fan belt pulley bolts to)

I've only worked on the 4x4 version, so yours might be a little different

These trucks arent that hard to remove the engine
You can leave the transmission attached to the Bell Housing and raise it, I would advise checking the condition of the transmission mount prior to lifting it.

If the mount is bad it is only 2 15mm bolts that hold it to the cross member and 2 15mm bolts that hold it to the bottom of the transmission.
You should have plenty of clearance if this is a 4x2 truck but if it is a 4x4 you may need to disconnect the front driveshaft at the transfer case by removing the 2 Universal joint straps which are 4 11mm nuts.

If you would need further assistance/ knowledge I am highly knowledgable with S10's I currently have 5 S10 trucks and 4 S10 Blazers here.

These trucks arent that hard to remove the engine
You can leave the transmission attached to the Bell Housing and raise it, I would advise checking the condition of the transmission mount prior to lifting it.

If the mount is bad it is only 2 15mm bolts that hold it to the cross member and 2 15mm bolts that hold it to the bottom of the transmission.
You should have plenty of clearance if this is a 4x2 truck but if it is a 4x4 you may need to disconnect the front driveshaft at the transfer case by removing the 2 Universal joint straps which are 4 11mm nuts.

If you would need further assistance/ knowledge I am highly knowledgable with S10's I currently have 5 S10 trucks and 4 S10 Blazers here.Mine is just a plain old 2 wheel drive. What do I have to disconnect besides the mount bolts. I'm assuming fuel lines, radiator hoses, ect. What about the driveshaft.

Mine is just a plain old 2 wheel drive. What do I have to disconnect besides the mount bolts. I'm assuming fuel lines, radiator hoses, ect. What about the driveshaft.
REPLACEING THE OIL PAN YOU NEED AN ENGINE JACK. NOT A FLOOR JACK LIKE POSTED ABOVE. USING THE METHOD ABOVE, THE 2X4 WOULD BE RESTING ON THE OIL PAN. RENT AN ENGINE JACK, USE THE THREE JACK MOUNTS ON THE TOP OF YOUR ENGINE. DO THE MOUNT BOLTS, ALSO BE SURE TO TAKE OUT THE DETENT CABLE BEFORE YOU LIFT THE MOTOR(PAST EXPERIENCE). YOU MIGHT NEED TO LIFT THE HOOD OFF SO YOU CAN LIFT THE MOTOR ENOUGH. I ALSO TOOK THE FAN OFF THE RAD, JUST TO GIVE ME A LITTLE WIGGLE ROOM. I'M NOT SURE IF TH 91 HAS THEM, BUT ON MY 84 THERE ARE TWO RODS GOING FROM THE TOP OF THEPAN IN FRONT, DOWN TO THE BELL HOUSING. ALSO IF THE GENTLEMAN ABOVE SAYS TO PUT THE 2X4 ON THE BALANCER, YOU RUN THE RISK OF BENDING THE PULLEY SHAFT.

You can use a floor jack and the harmonic balancer if you want and it want hurt a thing. I have done that many of times and never bent the harmonic balancer or the crank shaft, The 2.8 isn't heavy enough to hurt the crank or the harmonic balancer. since I bought a cherry picker, I use it to lift the motors out now. It works great. just remove the motor monut bolts and the fan gaurd and jack it up. Just was for anything they may be put in a stain or bind. Also remove the starter so you can get to all the oil pan bolts and it makes it easier to put the new pan and gasket on.
Thanks
SC

You can use a floor jack and the harmonic balancer if you want and it want hurt a thing. I have done that many of times and never bent the harmonic balancer or the crank shaft, The 2.8 isn't heavy enough to hurt the crank or the harmonic balancer. since I bought a cherry picker, I use it to lift the motors out now. It works great. just remove the motor monut bolts and the fan gaurd and jack it up. Just was for anything they may be put in a stain or bind. Also remove the starter so you can get to all the oil pan bolts and it makes it easier to put the new pan and gasket on.
Thanks
SC
BUT IF YOU USE THE FLOOR JACK AND BALANCER METHOD, YOU DON'T GET ENOUGH CLEARANCE TO GET THE OLD PAN OFF, BECAUSE OF THE OIL PUMP IN THE PAN(PAST EXPERIANCE). I TRIED THAT METHOD BEFORE, AND I ONLY GOT IT TO DROP MAYBE AN INCH FROM THE BLOCK. THATS ENOUGH ROOM TO GET THE OLD GASKET OFF, BUT NOT ENOUGH TO CLEAN THE MOUNTING SURFACE.

I just about had the motor high enough using the floor jack method to remove the 4x4 oil pan. When I discovered that it was just catching I borrowed an engine hoist and it didn't get the motor any higher.

I don't see any need to remove the hood unless you have to pull the motor. Although it'll give you more natural light under there if you need it.

What do I have to disconnect besides the mount bolts. I'm assuming fuel lines, radiator hoses, ect. What about the driveshaft.

You can use a floor jack and the harmonic balancer if you want and it want hurt a thing. I have done that many of times and never bent the harmonic balancer or the crank shaft, The 2.8 isn't heavy enough to hurt the crank or the harmonic balancer. since I bought a cherry picker, I use it to lift the motors out now. It works great. just remove the motor monut bolts and the fan gaurd and jack it up. Just was for anything they may be put in a stain or bind. Also remove the starter so you can get to all the oil pan bolts and it makes it easier to put the new pan and gasket on.
Thanks
SC
Just isn't going to happen. Raised the engine as high as it can go and the pan is not really even close to coming off. Now what? I have a 5 speed. What bolts have to come out to release the tranny. Are they the 4 or 5 right next to the back of the oil pan? How do you get to the ones on top? Help!!!

Just isn't going to happen. Raised the engine as high as it can go and the pan is not really even close to coming off. Now what? I have a 5 speed. What bolts have to come out to release the tranny. Are they the 4 or 5 right next to the back of the oil pan? How do you get to the ones on top? Help!!!
YOU ACTUALLY HAVE TO DROP THE MOTOR BACK DOWN ONTO ITS MOUNTS, AND THEN I'VE FOUND THAT A UNIVERSAL JOINT AND A SHALLW SOCKET, AND A LONG EXTENSION WILL GET THE JOB DONE. ON MINE THE CONVERTER BLEWTHE BELL HOUSING OUT, SO I DIDN'T HAVE THE TRANNY IN THE WAY, BUT WHEN I PUT THE REBUILT TRANNY BACK ON, THAT WAS THE EASIEST WAY I FOUND. MAKE SURE YOU SUPPORT THE TRANNY WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THEM.AND IF YOU DO DECIDE TO DISCONNECT THE TRANNY, YOU NEED TO TAKE OFF THE EXHAUST TOO.

Enough is enough! I googled "oil pan repair" and found a couple mentions of fiberglassing. Raised the engine as far as I could and dropped the pan. Thouroughly cleaned off all the oil and sanded all the rust and paint down to bare metal. Then fiberglassed the whole thing. Drove for awhile and no leaks. We'll see how long this lasts.