1997 no start

1997 pontiac transport van, died and will not start, restarted once - no codes, has gas, cranks ok, no check engine light. I did replace the inline fuel filter and while I was down there I had someone turn the engine over to see if fuel would shoot out the line with the filter oof, it did, I also could hear the fuel pump when the key was turned on. I check all the wiring connections and plugs, it did restart was running for 5 minutes then just died and now can't get it to start again. Need some suggestions.

Check the ignition side of the engine. Sounds like a problem with either the ignition module or the crank position sensor. When the CPS goes bad it usually will not throw a code but the car will not start. The ignition module will do the same thing but usually will give you a code but not always. So check for spark and if none exists then work on it from that angle.

how do I check them?

pulled coil packs, checked out ok, pulled coil module took to auto zone and bench tested ok, changed crank sensor, still no spark, any suggestions?

If it helps - i am living the same dream right now... I just changed my engine (did you know the idiots at GM use a hollow cam?? heh - broke in half)... it ran fine, took it to Canadian Tire for "E-Test" and it died. Let it sit - it started - then died. Messed with wiring harness on top of the engine - it started. Got it home (passed e-test :)) and it died.
Checked for spark - none. I can hear the fuel pump doing it's thing.

I am disheartened that changing the crank sensor did nothing for you. Try looking at the harness that connects to the crank sensor - thats what I am going to do..

Does anyone know if the computer does not get inputs from the crank sensor - it will die??? If I am driving mine - no probs. If I let it idle - it will die. If I shut it off after it is warm - it will die....

I'm fighting the same at this time...slowly cause busy and use other car. Lots of spark, no fuel delivered to cylinders. New crank sensor... tested fuel pressure OK. I suspect the 18x crank signal buffer in the ignition module: almost no signal out of there to the ECM..that is the signal supposed to trig the injectors.....
I'm proceeding slowly cause I hate changing everything by default until the right one comes.....I do not want to store used spare parts anymore.....
...I have thought of installing a carburator......lol

A little more insight - mine will run just fine cold - it will drive fine hot - shut it off for a while when it is hot - it won't start again until it cools down. Let it idle and when it gets to temp - it will stall and won't start until it cools down.. the no start is NO SPARK! when it is cold - great spark!

Any thoughts?? - I am stumped...

BTW LMP - i was the guys with the broken valve - followed by broken camshaft - the camshaft spun a bearing or visa versa - either way - new engine!! (with problems...)

Shane

A little more insight - mine will run just fine cold - it will drive fine hot - shut it off for a while when it is hot - it won't start again until it cools down. Let it idle and when it gets to temp - it will stall and won't start until it cools down.. the no start is NO SPARK! when it is cold - great spark!

Any thoughts?? - I am stumped...

Shane

sounds like when it gets hot your ignition module is taking a dump on you and when it cools off it works fine. take it autozone or somewhere and have them test it about 5 or 6 times. that way it gets hot enough to fail like normal driving, that could possibly eliminate that as a problem.