need opinion (again)
aorozco2
05-15-2006, 06:51 PM
I am looking of buying a block and this is what the seller is telling me:
I have for sale, a leaned out 99 VR-4 shortblock. The Engine was leaned out with less than 11K on the clock, and it lead to one cracked piston (Piston #1), and another has a very small chip taken out of it. The cyclinder walls are in excellent shape in ALL cyclinders, and nothing a light hone in cyclinder #1 wouldn't take care of. There is 4 good to go pistons. No spun bearings. The motor spins very easy. Block is solid!
There isnt any rust on the block besides any usual discolorization of iron. It may appear to have rust where the coolant normally runs but it is dried up coolant, you might be able to tell by the pictures.
Other than that you can see its very clean.
Only reason im selling it and not rebuilding it is because I need to pick up a clip because my wiring harness, turbos fly wheel, ect were stolen. So it's easier and cheaper to get a clip to get my 99 running again.
Great Shortblock for that big engine build up! Or maybe you just need to get your TT running again with as little money as possible ;)
want to explain the cyclinder #1 wall better. The walls are great on all of the cyclinders. You can rub your finger on the inside of the walls and it feels completely smooth in all cyclinders but number #1. Cyclinder wall number #1 is very much like this but near the top you can barely see it, it's like tiny speckles of sand in some places, Although its not much. These Blocks sure are tough!
The block would only need a very slight boring, because I would imagine you would need new piston rings. This slight bore would take care of any imperfections in any of the walls and be good to go. Or can be bored as far as you would like, to fit larger performance pistons.
so my question is if I bore the cylinder walls and get new ross pistons this would be ready to go right? if so could this engine handle more than stock because the 99 block came with forged rods and forged crank and cast pistons, so could this take a bigger load just by changing the pistons? or if I am going after power would it be better if i upgrade all of the internals?
here are pictures of the block.
http://myspace-835.vo.llnwd.net/00726/53/84/726224835_l.jpg
http://myspace-546.vo.llnwd.net/00726/64/56/726226546_l.jpg
http://myspace-768.vo.llnwd.net/00726/86/70/726230768_l.jpg
http://myspace-908.vo.llnwd.net/00726/80/93/726233908_l.jpg
http://myspace-909.vo.llnwd.net/00726/90/98/726228909_l.jpg
any input would be greatly appreciated.
I have for sale, a leaned out 99 VR-4 shortblock. The Engine was leaned out with less than 11K on the clock, and it lead to one cracked piston (Piston #1), and another has a very small chip taken out of it. The cyclinder walls are in excellent shape in ALL cyclinders, and nothing a light hone in cyclinder #1 wouldn't take care of. There is 4 good to go pistons. No spun bearings. The motor spins very easy. Block is solid!
There isnt any rust on the block besides any usual discolorization of iron. It may appear to have rust where the coolant normally runs but it is dried up coolant, you might be able to tell by the pictures.
Other than that you can see its very clean.
Only reason im selling it and not rebuilding it is because I need to pick up a clip because my wiring harness, turbos fly wheel, ect were stolen. So it's easier and cheaper to get a clip to get my 99 running again.
Great Shortblock for that big engine build up! Or maybe you just need to get your TT running again with as little money as possible ;)
want to explain the cyclinder #1 wall better. The walls are great on all of the cyclinders. You can rub your finger on the inside of the walls and it feels completely smooth in all cyclinders but number #1. Cyclinder wall number #1 is very much like this but near the top you can barely see it, it's like tiny speckles of sand in some places, Although its not much. These Blocks sure are tough!
The block would only need a very slight boring, because I would imagine you would need new piston rings. This slight bore would take care of any imperfections in any of the walls and be good to go. Or can be bored as far as you would like, to fit larger performance pistons.
so my question is if I bore the cylinder walls and get new ross pistons this would be ready to go right? if so could this engine handle more than stock because the 99 block came with forged rods and forged crank and cast pistons, so could this take a bigger load just by changing the pistons? or if I am going after power would it be better if i upgrade all of the internals?
here are pictures of the block.
http://myspace-835.vo.llnwd.net/00726/53/84/726224835_l.jpg
http://myspace-546.vo.llnwd.net/00726/64/56/726226546_l.jpg
http://myspace-768.vo.llnwd.net/00726/86/70/726230768_l.jpg
http://myspace-908.vo.llnwd.net/00726/80/93/726233908_l.jpg
http://myspace-909.vo.llnwd.net/00726/90/98/726228909_l.jpg
any input would be greatly appreciated.
VR43000GT
05-15-2006, 07:01 PM
Stock internals can handle quite a bit of power (up to 600hp or better). How much power are you looking for?
aorozco2
05-15-2006, 07:22 PM
for the next year I am going to do a single turbo set up, and this is the TURBO (http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/55_1147_1149/products_id/19641?osCsid=4d81b81ff379c6b2fcbc4f2af49c04b4) that I am planning on using. and I am getting the single turbo headers done by a member of 3SI. so basically I need the internals to handle it.
but if the internals as they are now can handle around 600hp does anyone know where I can get GT35 with a T4 inlet flange.
but if the internals as they are now can handle around 600hp does anyone know where I can get GT35 with a T4 inlet flange.
xXxRocker5150
05-15-2006, 08:29 PM
^IDK about the turbo, but I don't think it'd hurt to put in better internals, this way, if you ever want more power out of it, you'll have it, and the stronger internals will more than likely handle 600hp easier.
aorozco2
05-15-2006, 09:59 PM
now here is another question pauter or crower rods? I've heard that pauter are better and also that they are ecually strong what do you guys think.
also if the crank gets balanced it would be good for a set up like this, right?
and another thing, are there another type of pistons out there aside from ross?
also if the crank gets balanced it would be good for a set up like this, right?
and another thing, are there another type of pistons out there aside from ross?
Igovert500
05-15-2006, 11:54 PM
Matt Monett just dynod his vr4 around 715AWHP on a stock bottom end. But better pistons never hurt.
aorozco2
05-17-2006, 08:49 AM
have another question, what are the pros and cons about using forged pistons(8.5:1), rods and crank in a N/A block (2 or 4 bolt)?
Igovert500
05-17-2006, 02:12 PM
First off, all the NA blocks were 2 bolt mains.
Secondly, getting forged internals only make them stronger. Which means they can handle more wear, but don't increase any power. So they are stronger, but is that worth the money, if you don't need increased strength?
8.5:1 pistons in an NA would be a poor choice. The NAs build their power via higher compression. 10:1 The only advantage of going with lower compression, is when boost is considered. The lower compression makes boosting higher alot easier/safer. But if you aren't going to be boosting, dropping the CR is pointless.
Secondly, getting forged internals only make them stronger. Which means they can handle more wear, but don't increase any power. So they are stronger, but is that worth the money, if you don't need increased strength?
8.5:1 pistons in an NA would be a poor choice. The NAs build their power via higher compression. 10:1 The only advantage of going with lower compression, is when boost is considered. The lower compression makes boosting higher alot easier/safer. But if you aren't going to be boosting, dropping the CR is pointless.
aorozco2
05-17-2006, 07:38 PM
sorry forgot to mention that i will be boosting that is why the quetion came up.
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