Carburetor Quandary - Opinions Requested

So I'm working on rebuilding a '64 T-Bird - great car, and wonder of wonders, I pick up a vehicle that has zero problems with the body; no cancer, no dents, dings, bends or buckles - all I have to do is sand, prime and paint.

Well, in addition to getting everything ELSE working, that is. Poor thing's been sitting for quite some time - 68k on the engine, and that's original - not 168, just sixty-eight thousand miles on the old girl. Who knows how long it's been idle.

Got the engine to crank and stay lit last Thursday, wonder of wonders, but it idles real heavy, and smokes like a bug-truck in mosquito season. (White)

Tested things out by closing off both fuel valves at the carburetor, and the engine just keeps rumbling along. Figure that means the carb' is shot, leaking fuel into the engine. Not unexpected, seeing as how that's original, too.

So now it's time to invest in a 'new' one - or rebuilt, as the case may be.

THE QUESTION is: what brand should I go for? They all are going to set me back the same - right at two-fifty of my hard-earned-you-know-what.

It's a big 390 engine, and the carb' needs to be 600cfm - I've got quotes on Edelbrock, Holley, and the Autolite 4100.

Unfortunately, I've got Pony Carburetor (dot-com) saying that the Autolite 4100 is the "best carburetor ever made". At the same time, a friend tells me that he swears by Edelbrock, having grown up with them. Another two guys I work with are pushing me towards aquiring the Holley.

My personal indications lean me towards getting a rebuilt 4100 from Pony, but I'm the first one to admit I do not know old engines - this is my first pre-80's car, and the first car I've owned that even has a carburetor to worry with.

What's your opinion, of my three choices?
Is PonyCarburetor.com a good source for info and/or parts?
Is the Autolite 4100 really the "finest four-barrel carburetor that has yet to be made by anybody"?
Etc, etc.

Thanks for taking the time to read all this!
>-~~-> Dr. Pimento

Dr. Pimento,

You have a very desirable car, and I would hate to have you remove the factory carb and replace it with something that is non-factory, and lose some function and value.

My suggestion is to seek out a local machine shop or engine rebuilder and ask them who in your area is the best at carb work. Take the carb there with the ID tag attached (makes it much easier to look up settings and parts), and let them rebuild it to "as new" condition. It is my guess that this will not only be cheaper, but you will have better function and satisfaction in the final result.

I know where I live, there is ONE guy I would trust implicitly to do this, he is a true genius with carbs.

Thanks for the response, ModMech.
You're suggesting to rebuild the current Autolite on their, rather than getting another, rebuilt Autolite of the same make/model, because that way the car remains more "as is"?

Also, your comment about your local 'rebuild'er - is it worth trying to look up guys out-of-state, on good recommendations? Or would it just be best to deal locally.

Of course, if I can't find anyone local, I'll just have to ask you for that 'carb genius's number that you talked about. ;)

Glen at "Motor Parts", works in the shop (macnine shop). 651-451-1813

Yes, carbs are different even though they LOOK the same and are listed to "fit" a particular vehicle. Even if you get the EXACT same carb (by Autolite model/part #s) it will not be EXACTLY correct for your car. Most likely, it would be close enough, but it did not sound like you were interested in "close enough".

On restore projects we usually use Jegs or Edlebrock remanufactored they are the closest you will get to stock and the will fit and look perfect.

If you have white exhaust smoke ... wouldn't that indicate tranny fluid or coolant being sucked into the intake?

As an update (Just got back from vacation):

We replaced the carburetor with a Holly model, for a temporary fix, and I am keeping the original Autolite boxed up for a time when I have the free cash to restore it.

The white smoke seems to have stopped, once we replaced the valve stem seals, and ran engine cleaner thru' with the oil (and then changed out said oil, of course) - as well as replacing the fuel line, tank to input.

>-~~-> Dr. Pimento