Engine cutting out 1990 3.8L

My engine cuts out for a split second while driving, then resumes as normal??? I had the codes checked, and the only thing that showed was my O2 sensor was falty, so I replaced it, reset the computer, and am still having this problem? Sometimes this happens after taking my foot off the gas pedal and applying the brakes, and then stalls?? Heeeeellllllllppppppp!!!! This car is driving me mad!?

Ken :screwy:

Could be a vacuum leak or a bad ICM/Coil setup. None of those systems throw codes. Replace the little rubber pieces and then if that doesn't work then pull the ICM/Coils off (3 11mm nuts, 1 7mm on electrical connector...just mark your plug wires so you get them back on right).

Could be a vacuum leak or a bad ICM/Coil setup. None of those systems throw codes. Replace the little rubber pieces and then if that doesn't work then pull the ICM/Coils off (3 11mm nuts, 1 7mm on electrical connector...just mark your plug wires so you get them back on right).

Thanks for the feedback!! I was over at Autozone to look for ignition repair info, and can only find distributor type ignition info?? I don't have a distributor like that one!! Mine is a square box??!!!

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/09/9b/0900823d800b099b.jsp

krazyken:screwy:

Some 98's came out w/ a 307 (i believe) instead of a 3800. The 307 had a distributor while the 3800 had a coil/ICM assembly. Assuming you have the latter, then you may do well to search under olds 88 in autozone instead of 98, if you're having issues with parts compatibility.

If you want to check your ignition module (the square box), take it off and take it to Autozone. I just had one go bad. I found out later that Autozone has a tester. I don't know how good it is. The Igntion module is held on with three nuts underneath. Dan

When/If you have autozone test it, ask that they test it several times. Quite often, the ICM will not fail untill after it has heated up and would require several tests to get it to operating temperatures...or if you have sticky goo coming out of it then don't bother...just replace both the coils and ICM at once with NEW parts (or obviously new from junkyard, but risky).

When/If you have autozone test it, ask that they test it several times. Quite often, the ICM will not fail untill after it has heated up and would require several tests to get it to operating temperatures...or if you have sticky goo coming out of it then don't bother...just replace both the coils and ICM at once with NEW parts (or obviously new from junkyard, but risky).

Are the coils and ICM parts inside the ignition box?? Would it not be better to just replace the whole box?? Is there any special timing ajustment needed when changing the ignition???

Thanks

Ken

Are the coils and ICM parts inside the ignition box?? Would it not be better to just replace the whole box?? Is there any special timing ajustment needed when changing the ignition???

Thanks

Ken

The coils are attached to the ignition module with screws. At least in my case a 1991 98 reg elite. I don't know if you have to remove them for testing although I doubt it. No timing is necessary, thats what the combination of crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition module and power control module do.

http://www.thejmfc.com/autos/delcoignition.html

This is what your ICM/coil pack assembly should like like. On a 1990, you should have the Delco setup with the coils as one unit. The part with the electrical connector is your ICM (ignition control module).

One more thing, when it "cuts out for just a moment" does the engine kinda chug, around 50-60mph? Then acts fine after you give it some gas to beyond 60?

That would definately be either the coils or icm or both.