Is this a good deal?

Alrighty, I don't know much about Mustang so I figured I'd come in here and ask the Mustang folk of AF...I found this car on autotrader: http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=201662629&dealer_id=57842881&car_year=1990&search_type=both&make=FORD&distance=10&model=MUST&address=60511&certified=&advanced=&max_price=&bkms=1147404464332&min_price=&end_year=1992&start_year=1987&isp=y&lang=en&cardist=0

I was wondering if yall thought this was a good deal on the car? Also can someone tell me about the '93 Cobra engine? I think I read somewhere that the '87-'92 5.0's all had forged pistons and whatnot but the '93's did not (I'd like to run a S/C at some point).

One thing that has me a little worried is the Auto trans. Is it something that can handle the power it takes to run into the low 12's?

Sorry for all the noob questions but I gotta learn somewhere. :)

I'm not sure on the specs of the '93 cobra motor. But it doesnt seem to br a real bad price actually. Just have to look at it in person. I wouldnt pay $6k for the car simply because I am not a fox body GT fan, and I dont like those wheels at all. I's say you could get the car for less than the advertised price though. But go look at it yourself and see what you think. Check it out real good inside and out. Check for motor, tranny, rearend leaks. Check all fluids for proper fluid level, color, and smell. Get under the car and check everything out there too, with those ground fx on there dirt/debree will get between the gfx and body and can cause rust. check the car out real good and make sure it is what you want. Also make sure it either has never had nitrous run on it, or if it has make sure it has been properly tuned for it.

On the trans going low 12's, it depends on what trans it is and what all has been done to it. I have a built C4 in my car that is good for low 10's - high 9's. I'll probably sell the trans and upgrade next year to another stronger C4 or a PG. What stall converter is in the trans in the car in question? Write down a list of questions, everything you can think of. Then ask the owner everything.

Last but not least, drive the car. See if he will let you drive it for a couple hours, or borrow it for a day to make sure it is what you want. While your driving the car put it through a test. See how it shifts under light acceleration, then if you want see how it shifts under WOT. Take the car on a curvy road and see how it handles ect. Dont get crazy and abuse the car, just put it through everything you will want to do with it that the current owner will allow.

Ok thanks for the reply. The car is actually right in my town so I'll have my dad's friend come with and probably take her for a drive next week. And yeah I won't pay what he's asking I'll talk him down a lot.

As for the nitrous the guy says he's owned the car for 3 years and never ran the nitrous buy the guy before him did with a WOT switch...

yeah if you read the car description it says it has a WOT activated 100 shot...

Just because the switch is there doesnt mean the plumbing is there or the bottle has ever been filled. I'f you buy the car and run the nitrous I'd suggest making absolutely sure that it is tuned for the bottle. Start off with a 50-75 shot if you have the pills for it. Also check your plugs after a full throttle shutoff with the bottle. That will tell you if you are rich, lean, or just right ect.

Well here are a couple of things I'm wondering about.

1. Is it the stock automatic transmission or did he re-build a better one? I've never liked the AOD because it sucks up power and won't take much to break.

2. How is the interior? From what I saw the body and paint seems to be in good shape BUT how does it look on the inside?

3. Who did all this work to it? Did he do it all or did he take it to a shop and have them do it? I'm not saying not to trust anybody but I'd trust a shop more. When I got my Mustang it still had a warrenty on the engine re-build. Don't ask me the specs or anything because I really don't remember what the deal or warrenty was. The guy before me though gave us the papers and everything for it so we could take it to the shop if need be.

Now you don't get that same deal from a guy who did the engine re-build himself. If I would of had trouble and the guy I got it from did the re-build, I'd be on my own. I think a receipt holds more weight than word of mouth.

I'm not saying though not to trust the guy and think the thing will fall apart. Just keep your eyes open because I've known of some people doing a half-assed job on something and selling it knowing full well the person who bought it would have trouble down the road.



As for the deal though, I think it's fine, if the above are met. If you think that's a bad deal then I need to move where you're at. Around here I've seen stock 5.0s that aren't half that nice on the outside and they go for about $4,500. If I was sure of the purchase I'd gladly put down the money for that thing.

Ok cool, I'll be having my dad's friend come with. He knows cars pretty damn good as far as the mechanics type stuff but not so much on the value of things. I'll get in contact with the guy about the trans and see if it's built or just the stock AOD. If I did buy it I wouldn't be running the nitrous, I'd just sell it...

Thanks for the replies and I'll get back to you guys about what he says about the engine and trans.

I would seriously doubt the it an Actual Cobra motor in there. it probably just has all the Cobra part ie:Heads, Intake, and all that bolted to it. I did the smae thing with my old '88. As far as the price it seems to be pretty good for all of the work into that car.

I would also have a look real close at the body moldings just to see about the rust mentioned earlier. It is a real problem spot on the GT's. Also look at the frame where the subframe connectors (if there are any) would be for tweaking and bending. If the car has been abused that would be where you can almost instantly tell.

I'll check those areas, thanks. Is there anyway to tell for sure if it's a Cobra engine or if it just has the parts on there?

Is there anyway to tell for sure if it's a Cobra engine or if it just has the parts on there?

Well the Cobras of that time were different than they are now. I mean if I wanted to I could turn my Mustang into a Cobra, in a way. I could get all the engine parts and it'd be the same. The big deal back in '93 was the Cobra had disc breaks all around and an upgraded suspension. Not much was done to squeeze much power out. They put a bigger intake in, GT-40 heads, and little things like that.

Ok so it's not that big of a deal if it's a Cobra engine or not then since I was kind of planning on replacing the heads and intake anyways. I also just heard back from the guy selling it, he said the trans. is stock except for the valve body and a shop did that and the engine.

Thanks again for all the help guys!