another problem

i have an idle problem with my B18 it jumps up and down up and down, sometimes when i start it, it will be fine but as soon as i rev it and bring it back to idle it starts jumping what could this be? heres a pic of my rex
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a142/nvrhapy/cobocrx.jpg

Check your vaccum lines, especially to the map sensor. make sure the EACV is tight on the manifold, and that the O-ring is still intact between the two.

i also noticed that when i actually turn the key to start the car there is a slight delay and then the car fires up, don't really know if this is a problem or an early warning sign of something to go bad or if that is normal in hondas. anyone else notice this with there car

oh my car has the same kind of problem...its a stock d15b2 and sometimes when I rev, and then push the clutch in as if I were approaching a stop sign, the revs seem to "bounce" off from the point of stalling...then it levels out...happens sometimes, and randomly at that (warm or cold). I did remove the EACV or IACV for a cleaning that didnt help...actually seemed like it made it worse, because after that the revs started bouncing sometimes. i'll see if I put it on tight enough. note: when it bounces, it never goes beyond the normal idle. Occasionally it will stop bouncing and idle at like 100 rpms (or real close to stalling according to the tach) for a couple seconds, and then return to ~700rpms.

oh and where is the map sensor on the d15b2?

That my friend is a vaccum leak...my car idles at about 100 rpm if I remove the MAP and restart it with it disconnected, also, when I removed the eacv and started the car, the idle surged and dropped, surged and dropped, because there was a huge hole in the manifold.

no way in hell your car idles at 100 rpm.

but yeah check your vacuum lines first, since its the easiest. does it do it only when its warm and not when its cold? if not then its diffently the eacv.

no way in hell your car idles at 100 rpm.

but yeah check your vacuum lines first, since its the easiest. does it do it only when its warm and not when its cold? if not then its diffently the eacv.

lol...i was going to say the exact same thing. Alot of people don't know that the tach doesn't show 0-499 rpms. That first notch is 500 rpms.

Yes I know that...and it doesnt even move, believe me...it doesnt run like that either..i just tries to, if you even touch the gas it dies. Yes it does run well below 500 rpm, but itll never go above 500.

haha sorry my mistake. yeah didnt know the first notch was 500rpm...but it would bounce against that to normal idle sometimes. Didnt do that today though. i really like the Honda Fit though.

what about the hesitation when i turn the key is that normal?

where exactly is the evac? any one have apic of where it is on a b18, sorry for the stupid question not much of a motor guy and i can't find my manual. thanks

here is a pic of my engine i only noticed one hose that wasn't goin anywhere
http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a142/nvrhapy/Picture158.jpg

could this be the problem?http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a142/nvrhapy/Picture159.jpg

what you can do is take that small gray vacuum line like the others goin into the pgm-fi and buy a plastic t from whatever store is near you to hook all the small hoses attached to your firewall behind the manifold up. not totally sure but thats what i still have to do with my b16. i think if you do that it should run fine

theres a diagram of how to hook that t up somewhere on here..anybody got it on hand??

hey guys could it be possible that the pcv valve could cause my idle to go up and down, because when it was doing it just now i pinched the hose that went to the pcv valve and when i pinched it the idle went back to being smooth. let me now what you guys think

what you can do is take that small gray vacuum line like the others goin into the pgm-fi and buy a plastic t from whatever store is near you to hook all the small hoses attached to your firewall behind the manifold up. not totally sure but thats what i still have to do with my b16. i think if you do that it should run fine

theres a diagram of how to hook that t up somewhere on here..anybody got it on hand??
B16a:
http://b16a.honda-perf.org/Tech/vacuum.jpg
B18a AT:http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y255/scheistermeister/7.jpg
B18a MT:http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y255/scheistermeister/6.jpg

looks like you have an AT manifold.
Thank me later.

If you have an open line, just either "T" it or plug it with a screw.

hey guys could it be possible that the pcv valve could cause my idle to go up and down, because when it was doing it just now i pinched the hose that went to the pcv valve and when i pinched it the idle went back to being smooth. let me now what you guys think

not necessarily. It just means you have a vacuum leak SOMEWHERE.

i checked all my lines and i still couldn't find any leaks anywhere, does it matter that the idle on the car only starts bouncing when its been running for a while or warmed up?

After that little bit of info I would say it is your EACV, it controls warm idle...

hey frodo where exactly i the eacv? thanks

Its mounted to the backside of the Intake Manifold, has two coolant lines running to it..

is there anyway to test the eacv to make sure thats the problem?

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wODI3MTU2czQxM2RmZDMxeTU0MQ%3D%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wODI3MTY2czQxM2RmZDMxeTU0MQ%3D%3D
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wODI3MTc2czQxM2RmZDMxeTU0MQ%3D%3D

could it be possible that the eacv is bad but doesn't throw a code?

the only code ive noticed is 12?????

I've had my tach not even register at a low idle before. It'll just sit on the pin the needle sits on when the car is off. Couldn't tell you the rpm's though.

the only code ive noticed is 12?????

I've never seen that code for obd0 before. It's an EGR code for obd1/2 ecu's though so it's most likely that. Are you sure you are reading the code properly? you get 1 long blink and then two quick blinks?

Dont d series ecu's blink 12 times and not one long, thought it waso nly the B's for obd-0.

it blinks one long time and then 2 quick ones so i'm assuming thats code 12, would this be the eacv?

Im thinking you may be getting a 10 and a 2...

Im thinking you may be getting a 10 and a 2...

good thinking. if it is a true code 12 though, it is the EGR valve, which is mounted on the lower left side of the number four intake runner. This is only on automatic motors though so I wouldn't worry about it. You might possibly have an automatic ecu, so just try a different ecu.
Also, a code 12 isn't the eacv. You're problem is not the eacv.

Nope, a code 14 is!

now that you say that i do have an automaitc ecu, i remmber the guy i bought it from say that, but he also said that it wouldn't mater in the performance of the car. if i'm not throwing any other codes then what could the unstable idle be from. like i said earlier it seem to only happen after the car has been running for a while when i first start it it runs smooth then after it warms up it starts bouncing from 900 to 1400????

now that you say that i do have an automaitc ecu, i remmber the guy i bought it from say that, but he also said that it wouldn't mater in the performance of the car. if i'm not throwing any other codes then what could the unstable idle be from. like i said earlier it seem to only happen after the car has been running for a while when i first start it it runs smooth then after it warms up it starts bouncing from 900 to 1400????

don't know, i've never used an auto ecu. it has a lower rev limit as well. try swapping it with a friends 5 spd ecu.
another culprit may be air in your coolant system, try bleeding it to see if it goes away.

how would i bleed the coolant system?

and do you think swapping to a manual ecu my solve the problem or increase performance, the reason i'm asking is i don't know anyone that i can just swap with so i would have to go ahead and just buy one.

and do you think swapping to a manual ecu my solve the problem or increase performance, the reason i'm asking is i don't know anyone that i can just swap with so i would have to go ahead and just buy one.
well it will allow you to rev higher, which is definitely an advantage with any motor. I don't think it's going to improve performance otherwise. Swapping the ecu will only solve the problem, if the problem is related to the egr valve. Do you even have an egr valve on your intake manifold? look on the pics i posted to see where it is.
As for the coolant, there should be a bleeder screw on the upper coolant housing (this is where the upper radiator hose goes to the head). There will be a 10mm screw. After the car reaches full operating temp, loosen it and let the air out, then tighten it. Let the car run for 30 more seconds, and do it again. Keep doing this until all the air is out of the system, and straight coolant is spraying out. It's like bleeding your brakes.
Another way to do this, is to just let the car run with the radiator cap off, it will allow all the bubbles to boil out. It'll help if you jack the front of the car up a bit, to lead the bubbles out.

hey guys i went back out and messed around with my car today and found out that when i unplug the sensor thats located on the backside of the throtle body that the idle stops jumping. could this sensor be the problem?

hey guys i went back out and messed around with my car today and found out that when i unplug the sensor thats located on the backside of the throtle body that the idle stops jumping. could this sensor be the problem?

no. You are unplugging the TPS, which senses throttle position. By unplugging it, you're just forcing the computer to run on a different map, that's all, so it would affect the idle that way.
It still may be that that sensor that is bad, but, not for your reasoning. I doubt there is a problem with it if it has never been tampered with, isn't physically broken, and your ecu isn't throwing a code for it.
You can check it's voltages with a multimeter to make sure it is functioning properly. Any honda manual will tell you which wires to test and for what voltages. Don't change throttle bodies until you test it to find out if it's bad or not.
Have you tried bleeding the coolant yet?

checking the coolant was the first thing i did, i started the car, took off the radiator cap, and left it for a while until it warmed up and started with the jumpy idle didn't see and bubbles though, is there a certain amount of time that i should let it run for??

shouldnt take long at all...

ok i finally found out that my problem was the iacv or eacv waht ever its called i took it off and cleaned it out and no more jumpy idle but i did noticed that my ecu (which is for an automatic if that makes a difference in codes or not) is blinking one long time and then 2 short and then seven short. what that mean?

ok i finally found out that my problem was the iacv or eacv waht ever its called i took it off and cleaned it out and no more jumpy idle but i did noticed that my ecu (which is for an automatic if that makes a difference in codes or not) is blinking one long time and then 2 short and then seven short. what that mean?

12 is the EGR, which is only on auto intake manifolds. And 7 is for the TPS (the one that you unplugged). It's throwing the code 7 because you unplugged it. Just reset your ecu by uncabling your battery and letting it sit for about a minute then reconnect your terminals.
Don't worry about the code 12. There's nothing you can really do about it except maybe jump the terminal to it's required voltage. I would just get a 5 spd ecu. I have plenty of them for sale for $70 shipped.