hey new to bikes

two questions...

1) What are all of the different models of the Ninja?

and maybe a broad question...2) What's better, an older model or a newer model of the 250?

go to motorcyclespecs.co.za scroll down the left column till you see kawi click on it. theres practically ever bike listed there and its' specs.

k thanks.

i know you guys here this all the time... "what bike should a beginner get"?, right. i thought a ninja 250 would be best. but i read in here, beginners getting these 550-600's. i though those are too much for a beginner.

i am so f#@&ing confused.

I am looking for a sport bike that can beat these Honda's and Acura's I encounter on the street. But not one that will give me whip-lash. I'm just looking for one that I won't get bored with. And one that fits me I'm about 6'. Note, I have no driving experience what-so-ever ( I am planning on taking that driving class in the near future), my dad and I went Bike Week in SC on his Harley several times, but that's it as far a experience goes. One that's reliable also. A newer model preferably, not brand new though.

And is 45 hp good for a bike. sounds kinda low to me. ( referring to the Ninja 250, as far as hp is concerned)

thanks- Andrew

k thanks.

i know you guys here this all the time... "what bike should a beginner get"?, right. i thought a ninja 250 would be best. but i read in here, beginners getting these 550-600's. i though thoes are too much for a beginner.
I personally think it's a good idea to start small... but some people are either too tall/big to ride a 250, and others think they'll lose tons of money if they buy a small bike and sell it the next year. Truth is, if you buy a used bike (regardless of if it's a 250 or 1000), someone else has already taken the big value drop for you, so you are going to save. Also, by buying a 250, you are almost guaranteed to find a buyer whenever you are ready to sell it back off b/c someone is ALWAYS trying to learn how to ride.

Some people don't see any need for starting small so they say to buy an older 600, which are considerably more tame than their modern counterparts. "I have self control" or "I am level headed" usually follows that comment. Personally, I think I'm a better rider having started on a 500, but that's just my opinion.

Regardless, take a local MSF course and the ultimate decision is yours.

down here in the land of OZ we have to learn on 250's or less.

i'm 6'4 and had only minor issues with the 250 size. sure you will outgrow it but its certainly fast enough (if not to fast) for someone with zero riding/driving experience.


bottom line is, its your ass on the line. bikes are dangerous not matter what capacity. its just the bigger ones need a quicker reflex and more experience due to the quicker speeds that are attainable. my apprentice has a ZX2R ninja and he is in 3rd gear before i get out of 1st on my 954

would it matter weather i get a ex or a gxp or any other 500 sport bikes i didn't mention.

The choice of bike (EX, GSX-R, CBR, etc etc) is all down to personal preference - whichever you like the best. As far as size is concerned though, you're usually best off starting small. I wouldn't recommend street racing those Hondas/Acuras at all, but especially not right after getting your first bike - you will die.

I know lots of people who have started on older 600s and been just fine with them, but also a lot of people are glad they chose to start with a 250.

Finally, 45hp may not seem like a lot - only 1/4 the power of, say, an Acura RSX, but you have to remember that the bike is only 1/8th the weight of the same RSX. Though it won't provide you with the insane F1-car speed that a modern sports litre bike will, 45hp is most certainly plenty.

finally (i hope), yamaha vs. kawasaki. sry, it's a gay question.

finally (i hope), yamaha vs. kawasaki. sry, it's a gay question.

All depends what you find most important about a bike - horsepower, torque, revs, styling, etc. Despite what some people say, you won't find a lot of difference between the Japanese brands in reliability/parts/etc. Just go for whichever one you like the best. :)

finally (i hope), yamaha vs. kawasaki. sry, it's a gay question.
different bikes, different companies, different strengths and weaknesses. like heep said it's not gonna be a world of difference between comparable bikes. go with whichever one feels more comfortable and whichever one you like best, don't worry so much about who makes it.

there is a 1988 Katana 600 where i like for $2400. it's a good price but is it too much bike for me.

there is a 1988 Katana 600 where i like for $2400. it's a good price but is it too much bike for me.

Nah, shouldn't be too much. Older 600s are somewhat comparable to newer 250s anyways. Just be smart on the thing and you'd be fine :)

are you talking about power-wise. i thought the gsx has 40+ more hp.

also, how do you convert km/h to m/h?

are you talking about power-wise. i thought the gsx has 40+ more hp.

also, how do you convert km/h to m/h?

True, but it also has 150+ more lb to haul around. The 600 would be quicker, but not by a huge margin. You could handle it, I'm sure. ;)

1 km/h = 0.621 mph (100 km/h = 62 miles per hour, 161 km/h = 100 miles per hour). Use this handy tool for more conversions: http://www.onlineconversion.com/speed_common.htm

well fortunately i have time to look around the classifieds. i'll probably shoot for a 500 or 600, then take it easy for a while till i get used to it.

i just came back from the store, picked up a news paper, turned to the classifieds and found a 2000 ninja zx6r for $3000 with 15000 miles. i know i can't give you more than what the seller gives out but from your experience and knowledge, is this a good deal.

well fortunately i have time to look around the classifieds. i'll probably shoot for a 500 or 600, then take it easy for a while till i get used to it.

i just came back from the store, picked up a news paper, turned to the classifieds and found a 2000 ninja zx6r for $3000 with 15000 miles. i know i can't give you more than what the seller gives out but from your experience and knowledge, is this a good deal.

Sounds like a good deal...almost too good a deal. Maybe it's been crashed? Or it might just be a good deal. :)

i don't want to make this a habit, but is the zx6r too much bike. my guess is, hell yes, but it's not the rr. it's still a 10 sec. bike though.

i don't want to make this a habit, but is the zx6r too much bike. my guess is, hell yes, but it's not the rr. it's still a 10 sec. bike though.

Well, it all depends on how you feel about it - if you feel it's too much bike, then start with something smaller. I would tend to agree with you - of course you, or any new rider, could ride it, and ride it fine with self-control, but it's not a very good bike to practice with, to build confidence on, or to make mistakes on.

i don't want to make this a habit, but is the zx6r too much bike. my guess is, hell yes, but it's not the rr. it's still a 10 sec. bike though.
the zx6RR is actually a little less powerful than the zx6r, since it's a 599cc and the 6r is 636, the RR is supposed to be able to get around a track better but the zx6r is supposed to be a little more street oriented. my zx6 is my first bike, if given the chance again i'd have gone with something a little tamer to learn on for a season and then jumped up to the zx6r, but i've been good/safe with it, and i managed to clock 7,000 miles in my first season and i feel totally comfortable on it. i'd recommend taking the MSF course first though, before you ride on any bike.

i called the guy with the zx6r and left a message. i'm wanting to go check it out. when i do this what should i look for, and since all i know is that the clutch is controlled with your left hand and you gear changing device is contrilled with your left foot, i cant test ride it but my dad can. what should he look for when riding it?

All the levers should move freely/smoothly. Make sure all the lights/levers activate the proper things. Feel how the gearbox shifts. It should not pull to either side when riding on a straightaway/flat. I think there was a thread about what to look for when buying bikes a lil bit ago, but I don't have the link readily available.

if i can give you some background on bikes to help on your decision.

early 90's bikes have less power to weight ratio's than 2000+

so a 600 from 90 will have less power and be heavier than a 2000+

a ZX6r is a race rep and as such would require a certain amout of skill to be used and even those with alot of skill would be hard pressed to get 100% out of it. i believe it would be too much to start on compared to say a 96 model ZXR or GSXR600.

bikes tend to be superceded every year with a more powerful and lighter version. not by much but it does grow. my 2003 954 "fireblade" now has the same power as the 2006 GSXR750. even though its down on 200mls, its power to weight is the same.

so i reckon the earlier models (pre2000) would be a good place to start.


but

it all comes down to control. you can have a 250 and go just as fast as a 600. you can start on a litre bike and go slow. you don't have to use all the power available to you. the only problem is if you forget and whip open the throttle, a 250 won't really bite hard but with a newish 600+ the front could come up unexpectedly or the rear could break traction. it all depends on how your sitting on the bike. i know even on my 250 i stuffed up and lost the rear. i could drag WRX's and get to potentially deadly speeds (110mph) but on a bigger bike i would have been tempted to go faster quicker and may not have survived my leaning period.

so if you think you can handle learning on a new 600. then thats fine.
all of our combined experience is available to you and has been posted in the stickies. final outcome is down to you.




the link tange wanted is
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html

i'll just wait to find a used 2001+ ZX6R because i can't finance a vehicle more than 5 years old. you think i can get one for about 3000 or less in decent condition?

just to widen my chances, i'll wait for a cbr600, zx6r, or the gsxr600. used 2001+ and 3000 or under. i have better chances now. is 3000 not very reasonable for any of thoes bikes?

Judging a bikes performance by engine size is grossly inaccurate. I can find a bike of virtually any engine size that a beginner has no business on.

if you are refering to the gixxer, i had second guesses about that bike anyways. but i like the idea of the ZX6R alot though. i read that it's a good beginner bike but not a great beginner bike. with a level mind i could handle it.

I wasn't referring to any bike in particular. The CBR, ZX6, and GSXR are all in the same class, and are all very comparable performance wise. They are in a class I don't feel a first time rider has any business shopping in, and I don't think they make very good street bikes. I would much prefer an SV650 over all of those bikes for anything other than track use. I'm a big fan of twins, but that's certainly not the only reason I'd make that choice. The SV is not only a great beginner bike, it's one that you'll never outgrow, and is a real do-it-all machine. If you don't like it, I would recommend shopping for other sport standards like the YZF600.

I wasn't referring to any bike in particular. The CBR, ZX6, and GSXR are all in the same class, and are all very comparable performance wise. They are in a class I don't feel a first time rider has any business shopping in, and I don't think they make very good street bikes. I would much prefer an SV650 over all of those bikes for anything other than track use. I'm a big fan of twins, but that's certainly not the only reason I'd make that choice. The SV is not only a great beginner bike, it's one that you'll never outgrow, and is a real do-it-all machine. If you don't like it, I would recommend shopping for other sport standards like the YZF600.
whys that, the YZF600 looks about the same as the ZX6 and CBR in hp and 1/4 mile. that's not any more suitable than the other bikes i was looking at.

Here is another example where reading spec sheets doesn't tell the true story.

First, make sure you don't confuse the YZF600 with the R6. Two very different machines there. The YZF is a retuned version of an R6 powerplant with a much more linear and usable power curve. In otherwords, it is a MUCH better street engine than what is used in the supersport 600's. The supersports are becoming more and more track focused as the years go on with sacrifices being made in every other area of riding. The YZF will offer much better ergonomics than the SS bikes, and will be much more forgiving and easy to ride. Unless you plan on going out and club racing it, it is going to serve you better than any of the SS bikes would in every area.

I would suggest waiting a while and making yourself more familiar with the machines you're talking about buying. Making an informed decision will really pay off.

what bike do you ride if you don't mind me asking. because it really sound like you adore these YZF's. no offense is some was taken.

and are you talking about me getting a Thundercat? not the R6

I ride an R6, but it gets limited street use. It's primarily a track bike. I have no particular ties with the YZF600, I just think it's a good street bike. The same could be said for the SV or many of the other bikes in that category.

so your saying that driving a SS bike on the street isn't as enjoyable a driving a sport bike on the street?

In my opinion, the "race replica" bikes (R6, GSXR, ZX-6, etc) are not well suited for the street. If they were, there would be no reason for the sport-standard category to exist in the first place. Generally bikes in that category are still very good performers, but are more aimed toward the everyday rider. The biggest complaint I have with my R6 in commuting situations is how uncomfortable it is. I'm a pretty tall guy, and staying folded up on the bike while riding around in town gets pretty unbearable, and is definitely not enjoyable. Granted, my bike has rear sets which make it worse, but it wasn't comfortable stock either. I usually end up with back pain pretty quick when I'm not moving around on it. It also requires me to constantly up and down shift due to the power band being so short and so high in the rev range. There are usually several shifts involved in just passing a car. When I used to ride around town on a friends SV it was a much more enjoyable experience. I loved having all of the torque inherent with a twin, which allowed me to be in virtually any gear at any time and have smooth power delivery available, and it was leaps and bounds more comfortable. And the biggest key for a new rider is, the SV was MUCH more forgiving to inputs than the R6 is. In other words, there were things I could get away with on the SV that would have put me on the ground on the R6. After having a few of those situations, I'm glad I started on a bike similar to the SV rather than the R6 I have now.

There is also a mental stigma that goes along with riding my R6 that I don't have on other bikes. I have the tendency to feel anxious when riding it because there's nowhere to let the bike stretch it's legs in a commuting situation. As a result of this I tend to ride it around much more aggressively and be bothered more by the slow pace of traffic when I'm on that bike. When I'm on less track focused bikes I don't have that tendency. I'm able to kick back and enjoy the ride much more. Some of these things may be impossible for you to relate to having little or no riding experience, but after having clocked many miles on motorcycles over the years, my experiences have led me to conclude that a supersport wouldn't be my first choice if it weren't for the atypical type of riding I do.

i would agree that on sports bikes its hard to get into cruise mode. i find it hard to just sit in traffic without feeling the need to blast through it.

comfort should be a major priority for newbies. if your not comfortable then your less focused on the job of riding.

i'm not a fan either of newbs on race reps considering they are capable of 10-12 sec quarter's.

good news: i found 2 2003 GSXR600's, one with 6000 miles; the other with 8500 miles, one is $5550; the other is $8500, one is Monroe; the other is in Fayetteville, on is 3-4 hours away; the other is 2 hours away. I'm going for one of them. I'm checking them out first. I'm comming home with one of them. Do you think one will fit in the back of a 2003 Dodge Dakota SXT? And how do I strap it down so I don't lose my investment?

i would not go out on the sole purpose to buy one for the sake of it. if one is worth it then go for it. don't buy a bike just for the sake of it!!!!!!!!

i know its hard to wait but it could be worth it. murphy laws says as soon as you buy one of these, a better deal will come along.


as for the tie downs, use the rear pasenger foot pegs and the handle bars. tie the front brake in too. put the bike in so the front wheel is as far forward as possible so when you tie the handle bars down, the front shocks compress.

rachet straps are the go

i would not go out on the sole purpose to one one for the sake of it. if one is worth it then go for it. don't buy a bike just for the sake of it!!!!!!!!

i know its hard to wait but it could be worth it. murphy laws says as soon as you buy one of these, a better deal will come along.


as for the tie downs, use the rear pasenger foot pegs and the handle bars. tie the front brake in too. put the bike in so the front wheel is as far forward as possible so when you tie the handle bars down, the front shocks compress.

rachet straps are the go
yeah, your right about that.

one quickie: what more forgiving and user-friendly between a GSXR600 and the ZX6R?

There is also a mental stigma that goes along with riding my R6 that I don't have on other bikes. I have the tendency to feel anxious when riding it because there's nowhere to let the bike stretch it's legs in a commuting situation. As a result of this I tend to ride it around much more aggressively and be bothered more by the slow pace of traffic when I'm on that bike. When I'm on less track focused bikes I don't have that tendency. I'm able to kick back and enjoy the ride much more. Some of these things may be impossible for you to relate to having little or no riding experience, but after having clocked many miles on motorcycles over the years, my experiences have led me to conclude that a supersport wouldn't be my first choice if it weren't for the atypical type of riding I do.

Very true, and patrol cars on the road don't make it easy. There's two notion going through my head, one, I have to get away from these cars to not get run over. And two, I hope one doesn't pull in front of me as the acceleration is a bit fast for the cage drivers to judge. And to sample that ample torque of mid revs on the street, one needs to be in 2nd or 3rd gear. But then, the bike is loud and it gets buzzy on the bar. And pretty much the moment you twist to past a few cars, you're always getting 15-30 mph over the limit easily within 2 secs. Plus if you get one of those cramps, then it's all the more reason to reach the destination quickly.

one quickie: what more forgiving and user-friendly between a GSXR600 and the ZX6R?


about the same really. hondas are the only ones with the reputation of being forgiving

Yeah the new ZX-6R's are right up there with all 600s being razor sharp. But the older ones, like pre-2002 were like couch I believe, real easy on the street. When new version of CBR, GSXR, and R6 came along, I believe most mags started calling it sport tourer, because of the comfort level, linear powerband with more midrange, and relatively sluggish cornering.

Btw, both of those GSXRs sound overpriced, try cycletrader.com. If you're not dead set on race reps, there is sv650s among sportbikes, as well as the other 500s. Older 600s (FZR, F1, F2, F3) make it for a good first bike as well, as long you don't tap into the powerband within the first month of riding. Plus the parts are so much cheaper, an air filter can cost anywhere from $25.00 to $80.00 for a 600, depending on brand or year.

It does sound like you're level-headed for asking "which is more forgiving question," most new riders don't. I would say all +99 bikes are pretty fast and competitive, they all have over 95 hp on the rear wheel. Older 600s have as much as 10-20 HP deficit, tamer powerband, and weigh much more. A new 600 on the other hand is 110 hp on the rear at 400 lbs.

Im getting a ZX6R today for $6000. My dad's a good talker so he's going to try talking him down a couple hundred dollars. I saw the body of it: it's flawless, it's in just excelent condition. It has a clear title, it's totally stock. And it's a 2002 with 3715 miles. I'm still not sure how exactley how to secure it in the bed of a truck. I'll look it up.

Unless you really like the bike, doesn't sound like a good deal. And in either case, that bike is still pretty high strung, as the HP it puts out is a bit more than R6 or F4, although it's geometry is a little more forgiving and ergonomics relaxed for street duties. That is your decision, but the price seems too high.

check nadaguide.com for bike blue book value.

There was a problem, we got the VIN# for the bike but the seller must have copied it wrong cuz the bank couldn't find anything about it. So we are going over there tomorrow to get it again and Tuesday were taking it to the bank to get it appraised then to the insurance place so they can look at it. Then it's mine. The Nada retails it for average retail at 4385. But the bike only has 3700 miles on it and the paint/body is flawless so that's not average. It's above average.

I paid $5000.00 for my 2002 R6 about a year ago in pristine condition with 3000 miles on it, and several thousand dollars worth of track prep in it. That is a very steep price for the zx6. I wouldn't even look twice at it. I wouldn't even be looking at zx-6's if I were you in the first place, but thats neither here nor there...

I paid $5000.00 for my 2002 R6 about a year ago in pristine condition with 3000 miles on it, and several thousand dollars worth of track prep in it. That is a very steep price for the zx6. I wouldn't even look twice at it. I wouldn't even be looking at zx-6's if I were you in the first place, but thats neither here nor there...
Preach on, brotha man!

Hi eclipser2001

First of all i would like to say welcome to the boards, and I'm glad your wanting to experience the thrill of riding!

I'm Kurt, haven't posted here in a while, but hopefully that won't be a shortcoming. :)

(after typing this, I realized its a bit long, but please bare with me!)

I would like to tell you about my experiences I have had as a rider. I purchased my first bike less than a year ago and haven't been riding as much as some other people on this forum. Probably ticked somewhere around 6k miles since then and I'm loving every second of it :smokin:

My first and current bike is a 93 Honda CBR 600 (F2) and all I can say is that it is a great bike for a well-rounded person who can appeciate and respect it. And that is very important as if you do purchase a bike, you will soon realize this to be true. It has a bit over 23k miles, and is still running as strong as ever. The transmission is so smooth (Honda's are known for it) its like.....wiping your ass with silk.

For a first timer, this bike is ridiculously fast (emphasis on the ridiculous). An F2 is rated at 100hp at the crank allawhile tipping the scales around 400lbs. Quarter mile times when i looked them up were 11.3 and 0-60 ticking in at 3.3. As I was saying its blazzing fast!. And for a sports bike, it has a relatively comfortable riding posistion (I am 6'1 and it fits well), and the seat is imo the most comfortable seat you can get on a sports bike. Its not stiff and awkward like others, and its riding posistion isn't as cramped. The body style is by far the best looking sport bike for its time, which is another bonus. They are known to be reliable bikes. Some people have ticked over 100k miles on them and they are still running strong. So if you are worried about the age of it being a possible problem, I hope this will help fade those worries away.

Before my experience riding my CBR, I had ridden my friends (at the time) 83 honda nighthawk 750. Another amazing bike.....they most comfortable bike I have ridden to date. Its powerband was linear and smooth, delivering torque at an ever excalating rate with no suprises. I'm so glad that bike was my first experience and I wouldn't take it back for anything :wink:. And then.......I bought my CBR.

Talk about opening a can of worms......Going from the Honda Nighthawk, to this thing was literally night and day. The smooth and linear powerband inherent on the Nighthawk was no more. I learned very soon....very (like the first time I took it out) that that little twisty clip on handlebar on the right, was not your friendly neighbor. It meant business. If your expecting the powerband to be like anything of a car, your so wrong its literally not even funny. This bike transforms into a beast within a blink of an eye and a twist of the throttle. If you take it easy, keeping the revs under 7k, its relatively tame. Once you blip the throttle and begin to diving into the revs past 8 and 9k, it literally feels like the bike just gained another 40hp. If you weren't holding on tight ready to expect anything, then you've just officially scared the crap right out of you, and you probably won't dare to try to bring it up into that terrority for a while. And that is exactly how I was.

First time i rode it I brought it up to about 9k rpms and it was scary. It took me another week of riding before I began to overcome my fears and settle into it a bit more. After I've accumulated a little more seat time, my confidence and respect in my abilities and the machine had increased tenfold. This really is one thing that most riders may not understand, and that is the importance of seat time. It really does take a while to begin to feel comfortable on your machine. And the faster, and less forgiving the bike is, the harder and longer it will take for you to feel acustomed to it.

And to summarize this all up.....I love riding! Its one of the best things that have happened to me. And as long as you are respectful to your machine and levelheaded, you will have many rememberable moments with it.

Be prepared if you choose to buy a newer sports bike. They will not forgive you easily if you get over your head. A few things to remember.......braking takes longer on a bike, and its not as easy as just hitting the brakes in a car. Your an extension to the machine, and your body literally controls what the bike will do. Watch out for debris on the road.....gravel, dirt, grass clippings.....its literally like sliding on ice if you hit it wrong. Pay attention to your surroundings! That is the most important thing you must! do when riding. You will be suprised how many people don't see you when your on a bike. The minute you lose awareness of your surroundings could be the second a soccer mom merges right into you. And last but not least......always wear a helmet! Its not about style, its about keeping your brains where they should be and not where they shouldn't.

Anyways, good luck on your pursue! I hope this doesn't sound like I'm scaring you off. You'll soon know, that upmost priority is your safety, and yes we do preach it!:grinno: Maybe thats why we are telling you to consider somthing thats a little less extreme :wink:

There are better deals out there, the key is to wait, and not to get anxious or impatient about it. When I got my first bike, it was 1990 Yamaha FZR600 $1600 with 14k (questionable, since theere was no speedo cable) miles. It was a beater in truest sense, and when I had to fix some of the stuff just to ride, it was a learning experience, since I was never mechanically inclined before. When I sold it, it was break even to how much I spent.

Then I got 2002 SV650 for $3300 with tank bag and rear wheel stand, and one spare helmet. When I got it, it had 800 miles, when I sold it, it was close to 5k, and I lost $300 on it, only because I didn't wait long enough for more sellers and picked a bad season to put up the ad (winter), winter is usually buyer's market.

While I owned my SV, last year I heard of a '1999 Honda F4, and get this, through my mother, and she dislikes that I ride. The bike wasn't put up on ad, so I quickly nabbed it for $1900. It had 7k miles, complete stocker, dropped on the side, scratches on left plastic. And since then, it was all gas up and go affair. So I had two bikes in the garage for a while, hehe. Since then, I did mods to fit my own taste. It's been on a highside, and fairings and everything else survived pretty well due to combination of frame sliders and luck.

Any Japanese bike that are below 10K miles, no wreck, and the owners did the usual maintenance, it's all gravy for me to consider purchasing.

My personal goal was to not spend any more than $2k on first bike, it was going to get dropped no matter what. So better set your loss for cheap. And so far, I dropped every bike I owned, once, :D

Well fortunately the price isn't set in stone yet. I has to be appraised first. And I'm not paying more then the appraised amount for it. Nada's average retail for it is 4385, so I'm not paying more than that for it. The guy is in college and not working so he really needs money, so I'm pretty sure he'll take about 4300 for it.

The first scratch you put in it, YOU WILL CRY. I don't care how big your balls are. Just consider this my final bit of advice on this one. I think there are FAR better deals out there... especially on more forgiving, more user-friendly bikes.

The first scratch you put in it, YOU WILL CRY.

unless the seller already did it for him. :D

A few things to remember.......braking takes longer on a bike, and its not as easy as just hitting the brakes in a car.

Bikes have the capability to stop much more quickly than cars do. The two big problems are that it requires the bike to be properly set up, and the rider to have the capability to use that potential. In panic situations, most people... panic. In a panic situation in a car it's very likely that you'll be able to get away with doing all the wrong things. Most people will stomp on the brake pedal and wait for a situation to take care of itself. On a bike, you will be required to display much more control of your machine to handle a given situation, and the results for failing to do so are much higher. Take the time to practice short stopping and evasive techniques. A parking lot is a great place for this, and it may very well save your life. I can't remember the last time I rode without having to use one of those techniques, and unfortunately many riders haven't taken the time to give themselves these skillsets to work from.

Actually despite the weight advantage, bikes just don't have to 4 fat wheels to make up for traction, it's relying basically on one wheel. After a point when all the weight is transferred, it will lock up easily, yet it needs lot of weight on the front to stop fast. During emergency situation, it needs quite a bit of modulation, where the rear will rise a few inches off the ground for max braking, but not too much, all of this while keeping the front checked from being locked. When they do those legitimite comparos about fast bikes vs fast cars, regardless of which wins, the car always brakes a bit faster when pushed to limit.

.

The first scratch you put in it, YOU WILL CRY. I don't care how big your balls are.


he he

when i did a stoppie on my 954 and went ass over tit i laughed at my own stupidity.
















then cried myself to sleep:banghead:

Actually despite the weight advantage, bikes just don't have to 4 fat wheels to make up for traction, it's relying basically on one wheel. After a point when all the weight is transferred, it will lock up easily, yet it needs lot of weight on the front to stop fast. During emergency situation, it needs quite a bit of modulation, where the rear will rise a few inches off the ground for max braking, but not too much, all of this while keeping the front checked from being locked. When they do those legitimite comparos about fast bikes vs fast cars, regardless of which wins, the car always brakes a bit faster when pushed to limit.

.

http://www.madro.net/carbike/carbike.html

Here's the best car vs bike comparison I've ever run across. Complete with telemetry data, it highlights the strengths and weaknesses of each platform. If you'll notice the bike dominates the car in terms of braking points for a given speed.

I don't have to read it all, before presuming he's not a good driver as he is a rider, does he race cars professionally? The article seems biased as well.

The article is written in very cynical manner for entertainment purposes (it is a bike mag, after all), but its the most neutral test I've ever seen done, and it's all backed up with track data. Schwantz was a professional driver in several classes during his career and is extremely fast in a car, and of course we all know his accomplishments in the bike world. If you read the article it will touch on some of his accomplishments as a driver, and will also compare his lap times in the vette to the SCCA T1 class lap record at that track, just to alleviate any doubts of those who don't know his driving ability.

Bikes have the capability to stop much more quickly than cars do. The two big problems are that it requires the bike to be properly set up, and the rider to have the capability to use that potential. In panic situations, most people... panic. In a panic situation in a car it's very likely that you'll be able to get away with doing all the wrong things. Most people will stomp on the brake pedal and wait for a situation to take care of itself. On a bike, you will be required to display much more control of your machine to handle a given situation, and the results for failing to do so are much higher. Take the time to practice short stopping and evasive techniques. A parking lot is a great place for this, and it may very well save your life. I can't remember the last time I rode without having to use one of those techniques, and unfortunately many riders haven't taken the time to give themselves these skillsets to work from.

Thanks for the input DealsGap. As I did a bit more research I have found the general consensous to be different as I originally stated. It seems the braking power of modern race replica super sports are just about on par with high end sportscars. I won't go as far as saying their abilities are better than one another simply being that the tuning capabilities for a car of bike is quite vast. They are however, dang near close to each other :) . However the skill involved in performing such task between the two may be an entirely different story. As far as my bike goes......its old, and doesn't quite match up to the braking capabilities as new sport bikes so I hope you can see why my impression was as so.:)

On another note: I have seen and read that comparo article with the Z06 and gixer in it before (great article btw! Makes me feel good i have a bike :smokin:). I'm still pretty hesitant to say that article is absolutely how bikes and cars match up, so I went ahead and looked around for some other articles and found another bike/car comparo from Evo magazine (a car mag, but I'm sure you've all heard of them).

http://www.radicalsportscars.com/media/fastfeud/index.php (http://www.radicalsportscars.com/media/fastfeud/index.php)

The only actually data they really give is acceleration times, but its still imo a good read.

As I can't provide any evidence at the moment, I can't comment much. I agree that bikes has the edge as far as out of corner drive goes, and probably what gets them the faster lap times. But I am truly not convinced that even the best stock race rep can match the 4-disc ceramic (or whatever Formula 1-derived compound they're using this year) braking power of F430 or other high end road-going cars. It seems to me one can trail brake much further and later on a self-stabalised 4 wheel auto than apply equal forces on two or sometimes one wheel bike, as it has far greater tendency to lose the front, wipe out and crash. Race bikes and race cars are different.

Is my suspension adjustable? Just out of curiosity.

I read the owners manual, it talks about the suspension but not weather or not they are adjustable and if so- how to.

anybody know?