Turbonator---Worth the 130

I have a pimped out contour that is all external with a body kit 17' after market rims racing seats and 2 12' kenwood type es pushed by a 1200 watt amp but i dont really have any engine improvements...and i dont really have much money i got about 200 dollars and i want to get as much improvement as possible are these things legit and how many of them should i get if they are ? :screwy: Thanks Luke www.turbonator.com thanks again

no

if you have a atx zetec you have no hope in your car being even realtively fast.



:) beleive me.

Yeah...i didnt ask that though do those things work...i could use better gas mileage too...

i said No, they dont work. you will get more gain by cutting your airbox and removing a few resonators then using one of those.

the turbonator makes a great paperweight for your desk. :disappoin

Its snake oil. Right up there with the $20 ebay performance chip.

Well then is there anything i can do to make my fucking 4 banger zetec faster i can spend up to 3000-4000 dollars so some 1 help me out

Well then is there anything i can do to make my fucking 4 banger zetec faster i can spend up to 3000-4000 dollars so some 1 help me outbuy an svt...


or... being a zetec enthusiast like I am, put together a decent turbo kit.

Run a 100 shot on it and enjoy it for the few weeks(or days) before it blows up.

Run a 100 shot on it and enjoy it for the few weeks(or days) before it blows up.actually, you could run a 100 shot for a while (sleeperZ did this for a while I think) he runs a 65shot now, and runs in the low-mid 14s.

Ill pass on blowing it up it has low mileage i got it for free and ive put 3 grand into external...rims..bodykit..paint and my stereo and i had to fix some other things.....say i was too splurge and by this turbo kit how much estimated horsepower would i have ive money into it now i dont play on stoping till its finished so if some 1 wants to link me to a site of turbochargers or superchargers please put it in here

Honestly, IMO spending that much money on a slushbox zetec would be pointless. You'll end up spending thousands on a car that will barely come close to a stock mtx v6. I could almost see if it weren't an automatic, but a zetec+ an atx, you'll never see much out of the car. In the end it would be way more practical just to buy an SVT, a manual V6 car or at least a mtx zetec and transfer the rims, body kit, stereo etc to the new car. For the money you're willing to spend, it just wouldn't be worth it on the car you have now. Of course, this is just my 2 cents.

Honestly, IMO spending that much money on a slushbox zetec would be pointless. You'll end up spending thousands on a car that will barely come close to a stock mtx v6. I could almost see if it weren't an automatic, but a zetec+ an atx, you'll never see much out of the car. In the end it would be way more practical just to buy an SVT, a manual V6 car or at least a mtx zetec and transfer the rims, body kit, stereo etc to the new car. For the money you're willing to spend, it just wouldn't be worth it on the car you have now. Of course, this is just my 2 cents.im sorry man, but i have to defend the zetec.

The zetec is NOT a slushbox, I can't stand people who think it is. The zetec have been around for MANY years and has proven itself, not only in reliabilitly but also in the ability to make power.

For 3k, he could have a god damn fast zetec contour, Providing he started with a MTX. He never said he had a ATX (I think so far?)

I love the duratec, its a good motor, But reliability (stock, and modded ( if it's done right)) the zetec is going to last 2-3 times longer. It's proven. My car has 140k on it, the only things i've done is a timing belt and a water pump, and basic maintenence. the car still runs and drives the same it did when I got it, It's beat on probably harder then most SVT's I've seen. and my car's an ATX (slow I know, but it's my daily driver untill I can afford something else, like an MK3 Supra)

Now if you are serious about this look into having head work done, oversized valves, new lifters, new springs.. Then look into getting bottom end built. Put together a decent turbo kit (you aren't going to find a kit, you will have to do a custom kit) OR you can go the S/C way and buy a JRSC for a focus. Then go to www.contour.org and look for a guy "LOCOGSR". He use to have a s/c ATX zetec contour that dynoed at 166whp, and said to have beatin SVT's (not sure on this but that's what he posted a couple times).

Actually, Im going to disagree. The CD4E is a slushbox imho. The zetec mtx is almost as fast as the duratec atx. :disappoin And btw, even with hectors sc on his zetec atx, it still ran 17s. :shakehead

Thought I read he had an atx hence the slushbox comment. Looking back over the thread, I dont think he mentioned the transmission. My bad on that. I still think he'd be better off selling this one and buying a V6 car. A decent SE V6 could be had for next to nothing and with the 5g he wants to spend on a turbo kit, he could have a nicley done 3.0 which would run circles around most, if not all F/I zetec contours. He'd still have enough left over throw a Koni sport kit on while he was at it.

Actually, Im going to disagree. The CD4E is a slushbox imho. The zetec mtx is almost as fast as the duratec atx. :disappoin And btw, even with hectors sc on his zetec atx, it still ran 17s. :shakeheadwe all know the CD4E is junk, hectors car with a MTX it would be a good solid 15 second car.

Hectors car ran 16.1 btw

When he said slushbox zetec, I hadn't read it enough to figure that he was probably talking about a ATX zetec, not a zetec in general.

i found a site that sells the engine either the 2.5 l or the 3.0 liter for around 3 grand would that make sense to just replace the zetec?

i found a site that sells the engine either the 2.5 l or the 3.0 liter for around 3 grand would that make sense to just replace the zetec?might as well buy a new car then, you'd need a new tranny, ecu, subframe, exhaust assembly, way more work then anything, find a older 96-97 SE and put a 3.0L in it

i found a site that sells the engine either the 2.5 l or the 3.0 liter for around 3 grand would that make sense to just replace the zetec?

You can pick up a 3.0L for like $600.

But yeah, sk8ter is right. Youll have to replace the subframe, tranny, axles, wiring, etc, etc. Its just cheaper to buy a car already. If you want me to find you the list and the cost of everything that it entitles, i will. Its been posted on contour.org numerous times with people with the same question.

Yeah i really like my car it looks great... i really dont want a new car at this time so if you could find that list and link it or w/e that would be a great help thanks

im just one of those people that once i start something i finish it i dont give up :nono:

Yeah i really like my car it looks great... i really dont want a new car at this time so if you could find that list and link it or w/e that would be a great help thanks

Used 2.5L or 3.0L Duratec Engine ~$600
All new wiring harnesses ~ $1400
MTX75 Transmission $1600?new $~700used
Clutch Disc $100.21 Plate $103.20 F7RZ-7550-AA & F7RZ-7563-AA
Clutch Slave cylinder $73.84
Flywheel $94.48
Left half shaft $150?
Right jack shaft $50?
Clutch Master Cylinder $29.19
Clutch Pedal Assembly $178.62 F7RZ-2455-AA
Clutch Hydraulic line upper $15
Clutch Hydraulic line lower $15
Clutch fluid supply line $5
Mount-fender side $85.22
Mount-tranny side-left $41.25
Mount-tranny side-right $40
Mount-cross member side-right $36.97
Shift Tower Assembly $72.97 XS8Z-7210-BB
Shift boot $29 regular $99 leather
Bolts- Clutch to flywheel $2
Friction Modifier $3.60 XL-3
Crossmember $450
Shift cables $45
3 quarts Mobil 1 synthetic ATF $15
Vehicle Speed Sensor-mtx $50
134Kohm resistor $1 Radio Shack

For a nice grand total of.....$5356.55 just from this list. Your still going to need a pcm thats out of a car with a 2.5L MTX. If you went with the used tranny and regular shift boot your still looking at about $4386.55. Of course, this assumes your doing all the work yourself too, you have all the tools required, and you dont need anymore misc parts that werent listed above.

I think if thats the route you want to take, it'd be better to buy a 2.5 car with a blown engine(should be dirt cheap, sub-$1000 area) and pic up a lightly used duratec 3.0($500-$600). You could transfer all the v6 parts over to the I4 car.