Help!! My Car Is Dying!
JonBarrett
05-07-2006, 02:04 PM
Hey everyone,
I purchased my Rodeo about 6 months ago with service records from the first owner. The car was in good nick and had been maintained. The only thing I had to replace was the muffler which was making a little noise while driving (I guess the pellets were bad). Since then regular oil changes and maintenance has been upkept by me. About 2 months ago a ticking noise started under my hood. I have read many posts about this problem being the lifters and/or timing belt tensioner. Every mechanic that I have taken the car too looks under the hood and says that the noise is so loud it cannot be the tensioner. They also tell me it will cost about 3,000.00 to fix. Some mechanics do not even want to fix it. I have tried everything I have read in the posts from frequent oil changes to the Transmission fluid remedy. None have worked. The oil grades I have tried have been 5W to 20W for the heat as I live in South Florida. I have not tried a Synthetic yet. When I put one quart of Transmssion fluid in the engine the noise did stop for a couple of days but then came back. It is VERY LOUD and extremely annoying. The crazy thing is, is it comes on and off at different times and when the noise is on the car drives horrible. When there is no noise the car drives fine. ie. nice pick up, smooth etc.
Now part 2. About two weeks ago my gas pedal could not be pushed down. It is so stiff that I pushed it down on the way home from work and it got stuck and I nearly was killed because the car would not stop. I took it to some mechanics who cleaned the carburetor with a spray but did not do much. It didn't help the pedal is still hard to push and ontop of that I still have the engine ticking noise. I really dont' know what to do about these problems. I have always worked on my cars and tried to fix whatever I can but this car seems like nothing works. It also seems like it is just dying on me.
If anyone could help please let me know
I purchased my Rodeo about 6 months ago with service records from the first owner. The car was in good nick and had been maintained. The only thing I had to replace was the muffler which was making a little noise while driving (I guess the pellets were bad). Since then regular oil changes and maintenance has been upkept by me. About 2 months ago a ticking noise started under my hood. I have read many posts about this problem being the lifters and/or timing belt tensioner. Every mechanic that I have taken the car too looks under the hood and says that the noise is so loud it cannot be the tensioner. They also tell me it will cost about 3,000.00 to fix. Some mechanics do not even want to fix it. I have tried everything I have read in the posts from frequent oil changes to the Transmission fluid remedy. None have worked. The oil grades I have tried have been 5W to 20W for the heat as I live in South Florida. I have not tried a Synthetic yet. When I put one quart of Transmssion fluid in the engine the noise did stop for a couple of days but then came back. It is VERY LOUD and extremely annoying. The crazy thing is, is it comes on and off at different times and when the noise is on the car drives horrible. When there is no noise the car drives fine. ie. nice pick up, smooth etc.
Now part 2. About two weeks ago my gas pedal could not be pushed down. It is so stiff that I pushed it down on the way home from work and it got stuck and I nearly was killed because the car would not stop. I took it to some mechanics who cleaned the carburetor with a spray but did not do much. It didn't help the pedal is still hard to push and ontop of that I still have the engine ticking noise. I really dont' know what to do about these problems. I have always worked on my cars and tried to fix whatever I can but this car seems like nothing works. It also seems like it is just dying on me.
If anyone could help please let me know
rodeo02
05-07-2006, 04:08 PM
What year? What engine? How many miles on it? If the 'ticking' goes away, it probably not catastrophic.
Joel
Joel
JonBarrett
05-07-2006, 07:03 PM
Sorry I should have included that information:
Specs are : 1996 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6 Engine
Specs are : 1996 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6 Engine
JonBarrett
05-07-2006, 07:04 PM
Only 91K on it!!
surferfletch
05-07-2006, 10:40 PM
Look at the end of the of the throttle cable. There is a small rubber boot which becomes very gummy and causes the cable to stick. Take it off and lube the cable. End of life threatening acceleration.
As far as the tick goes, if it's that loud and the performance suffers when it happens, I would seriously consider the tensioner. How long has the current belt and tensioner been in there?
As far as the tick goes, if it's that loud and the performance suffers when it happens, I would seriously consider the tensioner. How long has the current belt and tensioner been in there?
Ramblin Fever
05-07-2006, 11:46 PM
If there is horrible driving symptoms WITH the noise, chances are the timing belt tensioner is weak and allowing the belt to slip.
In my opinion, I don't see how it could be an internal engine issue if it comes and goes, on an engine if something is going it'll STAY noisey and eventually go.
If it has the original timing belt tensioner at 91k miles, it's most likely that. And let me tell you, when the tensioner does get weak it sounds god-offal horrible, it really sounds like a rod knocking. And just the most grueling LOUD sound that makes you cringe.
Personally, find a good Isuzu dealership or import mechanic and tell them you're bringing it in for a new timing belt, tensioner, waterpump (do it ALL at once while you're there), now this is not a cheap maintenance job. You're looking at about $800-$1k, just had this done myself because my 2nd waterpump went out and caused my tensioner to loosen, giving that horrible horrible sound.
In my opinion, I don't see how it could be an internal engine issue if it comes and goes, on an engine if something is going it'll STAY noisey and eventually go.
If it has the original timing belt tensioner at 91k miles, it's most likely that. And let me tell you, when the tensioner does get weak it sounds god-offal horrible, it really sounds like a rod knocking. And just the most grueling LOUD sound that makes you cringe.
Personally, find a good Isuzu dealership or import mechanic and tell them you're bringing it in for a new timing belt, tensioner, waterpump (do it ALL at once while you're there), now this is not a cheap maintenance job. You're looking at about $800-$1k, just had this done myself because my 2nd waterpump went out and caused my tensioner to loosen, giving that horrible horrible sound.
rodeo02
05-08-2006, 08:56 AM
You'll need to try to pinpoint the noise when it happens. Top of the engine, front or bottom. Stop using ATF with the engine oil. Contrary to popular (and outdated) belief, it's the same thing as dumping a 20wt motor oil in your sump. Does nothing but thin the oil some. ATF from ~35yrs ago was made with whale oil that did have 'magical' cleaning properties. This is no longer true. I wouldn't suspect the T-belt tensioner, but at 10yrs, you might be due for a T-belt, tensioner wheel and pusher and waterpump replacement.
Joel
Joel
JonBarrett
05-08-2006, 05:11 PM
I have disconnected the throttle valve and cleaned and it is running alot smoother. I am taking it to my mechanic on wednesday to have the timing belt checked out. I just really want to get it fixed.
Joel, When I hear the noise it is usually on the passenger side of the car on the top of the engine. It sometimes sounds like fast clicks but then progresses to loud banging/knocking noise. Funny enough I saw the exact Model of my rodeo (1996) when walking out of the grocery store with the exact same noise. I asked him about the problem and he said he couldn't find out what it is either.
I will definatly check out the timing belt and get back to you guys. Thanks for the help.
Joel, When I hear the noise it is usually on the passenger side of the car on the top of the engine. It sometimes sounds like fast clicks but then progresses to loud banging/knocking noise. Funny enough I saw the exact Model of my rodeo (1996) when walking out of the grocery store with the exact same noise. I asked him about the problem and he said he couldn't find out what it is either.
I will definatly check out the timing belt and get back to you guys. Thanks for the help.
JonBarrett
05-08-2006, 05:12 PM
From checking my serivce records it looks like this is the original timing belt/tensioner in the car it has never been replaced.
Ramblin Fever
05-08-2006, 09:39 PM
You know the sound is a crap-shoot for us, because we can't hear it. But, FWIW, the original timing belt tensioners typically only last 90-120k miles, and that set (belt, tensioner, etc) is 10yrs old anyway. It's time.
If you're gonna have the belt "checked", might as well do it. A 10yr old belt's seen it's better days, same with that waterpump.
Is this ticking sound "softer" when you first start the engine, and then when it warms up does it get louder??
Also, what kind of oil filter do you currently have on there? Some oil filters, i.e Fram in particular, like to make these engines tick.
If you're gonna have the belt "checked", might as well do it. A 10yr old belt's seen it's better days, same with that waterpump.
Is this ticking sound "softer" when you first start the engine, and then when it warms up does it get louder??
Also, what kind of oil filter do you currently have on there? Some oil filters, i.e Fram in particular, like to make these engines tick.
surferfletch
05-08-2006, 11:33 PM
Fast clicking is the common noise these engines make. I was behind a Rodeo yesterday at the McDonald's drive through and the 3.2L was ticking away. Dude behind the wheel didn't seem a bit concerned, nor would I have been. But loud banging/knocking? That doesn't sound like lifter tick. Has anyone else's tick progressed to loud banging?
Ramblin Fever
05-09-2006, 12:08 AM
Has anyone else's tick progressed to loud banging?
No, that's why I don't believe he's experiencing lifter tick. Banging/knocking were the EXACT sounds that I heard when my tensioner went out.
Can't guarantee, but what else could it really be?? If it was an actual rod, the sound wouldn't go away on certain days, and be worse on others.
No, that's why I don't believe he's experiencing lifter tick. Banging/knocking were the EXACT sounds that I heard when my tensioner went out.
Can't guarantee, but what else could it really be?? If it was an actual rod, the sound wouldn't go away on certain days, and be worse on others.
Blue Bowtie
05-09-2006, 10:51 AM
No, that's why I don't believe he's experiencing lifter tick. Banging/knocking were the EXACT sounds that I heard when my tensioner went out.
I also seriously doubt that it is "lifter tick" since there are no lifters in the V-6. There are cam followers, and they are periodically hydraulically compensated (when the system works), but as Ramblin mentioned, any noise produced by the valve train (other than the camshaft drives) is more commonly described as a "tick" and not a "banging/knocking" noise. Even a broken valve spring doesn't do that. I'm not sure if the same can be done with the Isuzu, but several other engines with timing drive tensioners (both belt and chain) can be diagnosed by removing a cam cover, installing a small degree wheel, and manually rotating the crank in reverse to measure total lash. A stretched chain/belt or weak tensioner will allow a bit more crank rotation back in the forward direction before moving the camshafts. I'm not sure if/how this works on the 3.2L, however.
I also seriously doubt that it is "lifter tick" since there are no lifters in the V-6. There are cam followers, and they are periodically hydraulically compensated (when the system works), but as Ramblin mentioned, any noise produced by the valve train (other than the camshaft drives) is more commonly described as a "tick" and not a "banging/knocking" noise. Even a broken valve spring doesn't do that. I'm not sure if the same can be done with the Isuzu, but several other engines with timing drive tensioners (both belt and chain) can be diagnosed by removing a cam cover, installing a small degree wheel, and manually rotating the crank in reverse to measure total lash. A stretched chain/belt or weak tensioner will allow a bit more crank rotation back in the forward direction before moving the camshafts. I'm not sure if/how this works on the 3.2L, however.
directory
05-09-2006, 11:02 AM
i was unaware of the lack of lifters...
is this only for those years?
is this only for those years?
rodeo02
05-09-2006, 09:40 PM
i was unaware of the lack of lifters...
They are on all ~1993-1997 3.2's, but the technical term for them is hydraulic lash adjuster (HLA). People usually just lump them into the "lifter" catagory. They are not like what you'd see in a small block chevy, cam-in-block V6, etc.. but are pretty darm similar.
Joel
They are on all ~1993-1997 3.2's, but the technical term for them is hydraulic lash adjuster (HLA). People usually just lump them into the "lifter" catagory. They are not like what you'd see in a small block chevy, cam-in-block V6, etc.. but are pretty darm similar.
Joel
retainer55
05-09-2006, 11:51 PM
If there is horrible driving symptoms WITH the noise, chances are the timing belt tensioner is weak and allowing the belt to slip.
In my opinion, I don't see how it could be an internal engine issue if it comes and goes, on an engine if something is going it'll STAY noisey and eventually go.
If it has the original timing belt tensioner at 91k miles, it's most likely that. And let me tell you, when the tensioner does get weak it sounds god-offal horrible, it really sounds like a rod knocking. And just the most grueling LOUD sound that makes you cringe.
Personally, find a good Isuzu dealership or import mechanic and tell them you're bringing it in for a new timing belt, tensioner, waterpump (do it ALL at once while you're there), now this is not a cheap maintenance job. You're looking at about $800-$1k, just had this done myself because my 2nd waterpump went out and caused my tensioner to loosen, giving that horrible horrible sound.
I had the exact same noise on my 95.5 Passport EX. I believe this is the same engine (6vD1), but I'm not sure. I first took it to the ASE certified instructors at the college I work for, and they said "yep, that's the sound of buying a new engine". So then I took it to Denver Isuzu and they told me it was the timing belt, water pump etc....I only elected to have the timing belt done because I am broke for ~$450 tax included. I'll let you know if that fixes the problem.
B
In my opinion, I don't see how it could be an internal engine issue if it comes and goes, on an engine if something is going it'll STAY noisey and eventually go.
If it has the original timing belt tensioner at 91k miles, it's most likely that. And let me tell you, when the tensioner does get weak it sounds god-offal horrible, it really sounds like a rod knocking. And just the most grueling LOUD sound that makes you cringe.
Personally, find a good Isuzu dealership or import mechanic and tell them you're bringing it in for a new timing belt, tensioner, waterpump (do it ALL at once while you're there), now this is not a cheap maintenance job. You're looking at about $800-$1k, just had this done myself because my 2nd waterpump went out and caused my tensioner to loosen, giving that horrible horrible sound.
I had the exact same noise on my 95.5 Passport EX. I believe this is the same engine (6vD1), but I'm not sure. I first took it to the ASE certified instructors at the college I work for, and they said "yep, that's the sound of buying a new engine". So then I took it to Denver Isuzu and they told me it was the timing belt, water pump etc....I only elected to have the timing belt done because I am broke for ~$450 tax included. I'll let you know if that fixes the problem.
B
Ramblin Fever
05-10-2006, 01:16 AM
Yeap, same engine. If you were hearing that horrible sound, it was your timing belt tensioner that needed replaced. If they reinstalled the old tensioner on a new belt, start saving, that tensioner will fail soon.
I completely understand the $$$ thing, it seems problems hit when you don't have the extra funds. It's like the vehicles just KNOW, and I swear they gang up.
I wish you could luck - did your sound improve??
I completely understand the $$$ thing, it seems problems hit when you don't have the extra funds. It's like the vehicles just KNOW, and I swear they gang up.
I wish you could luck - did your sound improve??
JonBarrett
05-10-2006, 01:40 AM
The sound does start off ticking lightly but then gets progressively worse over time. But like I mentioned earlier sometimes it just stops and goes away and then comes back. I really don't know how to explain it. Only when it comes back as a fast ticking sound it only gets louder and louder to an almost banging/knocking noise. Just like you guys described the tensioner sounds. I might as well get the tensioner/timingbelt and waterpump replaced. I'm doing it this weekend and well let you know the outcome.
Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the help.
Ramblin Fever
05-10-2006, 08:00 AM
Make SURE to do the waterpump as well, TRUST me, you don't want to tear it down twice within a short time. Use an OEM timing belt or a Gates belt, those are the only two I would trust.
Oh, while you're there, be sure to replace any coolant hoses you can get your hands on, i.e. upper/lower hose, little by-pass 90 degree hose, oil cooler to engine block hose - trust me, they fail at the worst times!
Another caution as well, give a thorough check of your heater core hoses if they are original (back against the firewall, passanger side). These are a pain to replace, but if they're original, like mine were up til 3 weeks ago, they're shot.
Napa has a lot of these hoses, but generally doesn't have them in stock, have to be ordered, otherwise the dealer is your best bet. The heater core hoses were the most expensive, all the others were fairly cheap, and of course, they're all premolded.
Oh, while you're there, be sure to replace any coolant hoses you can get your hands on, i.e. upper/lower hose, little by-pass 90 degree hose, oil cooler to engine block hose - trust me, they fail at the worst times!
Another caution as well, give a thorough check of your heater core hoses if they are original (back against the firewall, passanger side). These are a pain to replace, but if they're original, like mine were up til 3 weeks ago, they're shot.
Napa has a lot of these hoses, but generally doesn't have them in stock, have to be ordered, otherwise the dealer is your best bet. The heater core hoses were the most expensive, all the others were fairly cheap, and of course, they're all premolded.
JonBarrett
05-18-2006, 01:48 PM
Hey guys , another disappointing development...
I took my Rodeo to my mechanic to get the Timing Belt, TB Tensioner and Water pump replaced the first thing he did was look at the oil once he heard the sound. THERE WAS NO OIL IN THE ENGINE FROM THE DIPSTICK. He asked me if I had checked the oil , I told him I had just changed the oil two weeks ago. And checked it the saturday after. Fourteen days and the oil is at the bottom of the engine. He says it could be my oil pump? He told me to take it home after he filled it up with oil and then to bring it back this weekend as he will need to take it apart to check the problem.
What do you guys think? I know I do not have an oil leak, as my car is kept in the garage overnight and I would have definately noticed. I just changed my oil two weeks ago and filled it up and have checked the level after driving it. What else could this be? Could this be what is causing the knocking sound?
Jonathan
I took my Rodeo to my mechanic to get the Timing Belt, TB Tensioner and Water pump replaced the first thing he did was look at the oil once he heard the sound. THERE WAS NO OIL IN THE ENGINE FROM THE DIPSTICK. He asked me if I had checked the oil , I told him I had just changed the oil two weeks ago. And checked it the saturday after. Fourteen days and the oil is at the bottom of the engine. He says it could be my oil pump? He told me to take it home after he filled it up with oil and then to bring it back this weekend as he will need to take it apart to check the problem.
What do you guys think? I know I do not have an oil leak, as my car is kept in the garage overnight and I would have definately noticed. I just changed my oil two weeks ago and filled it up and have checked the level after driving it. What else could this be? Could this be what is causing the knocking sound?
Jonathan
surferfletch
05-18-2006, 04:55 PM
Common for these engines to consume oil. I check mine a couple of times a week. That may have been responsible for the noises you heard. Have they gone away? I know my engine tended to tick if it was low on oil or was approaching its next oil change. Maybe you've solved it!
surferfletch
05-18-2006, 04:56 PM
You never got an oil light? I'll bet it's not the pump.
Ramblin Fever
05-18-2006, 06:11 PM
How many miles had you driven in 14 days?
Actually, I've heard the opposite of Surferfletch, the 91-97 yrs use "some" oil, i.e. 1 qt/1k miles, but i've never heard of those years sucking their sumps completely dry.
The 98+yrs are highly known for this issue however.
Sorry, I didn't think to mention for you to check your oil level, thought it was something you were already on top of.
I only check mine once every week, and/or right before and during an over 400 mile trip. But my truck has never used any oil in between oil changes.
Doubt that it's the oil pump, as if it was failing, you'd still have oil in the sump - least I would think??
Actually, I've heard the opposite of Surferfletch, the 91-97 yrs use "some" oil, i.e. 1 qt/1k miles, but i've never heard of those years sucking their sumps completely dry.
The 98+yrs are highly known for this issue however.
Sorry, I didn't think to mention for you to check your oil level, thought it was something you were already on top of.
I only check mine once every week, and/or right before and during an over 400 mile trip. But my truck has never used any oil in between oil changes.
Doubt that it's the oil pump, as if it was failing, you'd still have oil in the sump - least I would think??
Ramblin Fever
05-18-2006, 06:13 PM
Just out of curiousity sake, are you sure that engine is the original one?
surferfletch
05-18-2006, 10:01 PM
Agreed. I lose about a quart between 3K changes... Gotta check it often no matter what engine you've got!
Keep a rag tucked away somewhere in the engine bay. It literally takes one minute to check it.
Keep a rag tucked away somewhere in the engine bay. It literally takes one minute to check it.
JonBarrett
05-19-2006, 10:31 PM
It is definately the original engine , no question. The oil light never comes on at all. I have driven approx. 347 miles since my oil change, which isn't a lot really. Will be taking it in this weekend to the mechanic to see what he finds, the problem is whenever I take it in they charge me to look at it. So I 'm just hoping it can be fixed b/c I do like the truck. Anyhow yesterday infront of Albertsons while shopping there was another Rodeo parked with the same noise but not as bad ticking as mine. I spoke to the owner about it, he said his sucks down oil as well and he keeps extra in the truck to keep filling it up, when telling him my problem and what I have tried he said it could be my seals ? Don't really know what he was talking about but he also said that when he sees the 1996 model he hears the same noise on most of these trucks. I will keep you posted. Thanks for the reply.
Jonathan
Jonathan
Ramblin Fever
05-20-2006, 02:34 AM
You know what, climb under that truck towards the backside of the front tires, and take a good look at your rear main seal, as well as your oil filter, and the whole underside of the engine - it's possible you're losing oil only while driving and thus you wouldn't see any *big* drips on your garage floor.
My Toyota's doing this right now, and there's NEVER a drip on my driveway, but the whole undercarriage at the rear main is caked in leaking oil.
Also, pop your radiator cap - engine cold, take a good look at the color of the antifreeze.
Agreed, in that small amount of mileage, you should have a completely full sump.
I've always carried an extra quart of oil in every vehicle I own, you just never know.
My Toyota's doing this right now, and there's NEVER a drip on my driveway, but the whole undercarriage at the rear main is caked in leaking oil.
Also, pop your radiator cap - engine cold, take a good look at the color of the antifreeze.
Agreed, in that small amount of mileage, you should have a completely full sump.
I've always carried an extra quart of oil in every vehicle I own, you just never know.
SealBeachWaterman
03-11-2008, 03:36 PM
Have a 1996 Rodeo LS, Has a small water leak on the inside of Car. The dripping is on the passengers side of car.
FL 3.2L
03-11-2008, 04:46 PM
It would be best to start a new thread.
1) If it is coolant (sweet smell), your heater core is bad and needs to be replaced.
2) What it sounds like, though, is your a/c drain line, found on the passenger side of the engine compartment at the firewall, is clogged and needs to be cleaned out. Is it just water and not coolant?
1) If it is coolant (sweet smell), your heater core is bad and needs to be replaced.
2) What it sounds like, though, is your a/c drain line, found on the passenger side of the engine compartment at the firewall, is clogged and needs to be cleaned out. Is it just water and not coolant?
poo 95 rodeo
03-18-2008, 04:01 AM
i have a ticker, most people with rodeos ask me if its normal. for me and most that i have heard its perfectly normal. if it stops completly WORRY. hahaha
if its the tensioner its loud but more of a slaping sound. put hand on timing belt cover while running(i have to say this) please be carful of the fan.if its the tentioner you will feel it. a nother test to see if it is a lifter or (hla)
while runing let a dollor bill or notebook paper lay over the exaust. if it trys to suck it up on a couple of rotations its not hitting on a cylinder
if its the tensioner its loud but more of a slaping sound. put hand on timing belt cover while running(i have to say this) please be carful of the fan.if its the tentioner you will feel it. a nother test to see if it is a lifter or (hla)
while runing let a dollor bill or notebook paper lay over the exaust. if it trys to suck it up on a couple of rotations its not hitting on a cylinder
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