Brake problem.....
silveradoking
05-06-2006, 10:48 PM
Recently I changed my rotors and brake pads......I put on some powerslot slotted rotors....and some semi metallic pads I picked up at the local parts store... I did the work myself.....everything properly and up to spec......Now my truck sqeaks like a pig.....When I did the install, I only put the anti squeal on the pad that touches the round part of the caliper.....It didn't sqeal for maybe 2 or 3 days....then it started to slightly, then worse.....So yesterday, I took off the back pads, and and the metal piece on the backside of the pads just fell off...so I bought new pads...and put the anti sqeal on both sides of the pads (just the backside)...now it still squeals......the the metal on the inside of the caliper is not touching the rotor....and it happens only when I push the brakes, and almost faintly when I drive.....anybody have any ideas....thanks
kenny-1907
05-07-2006, 10:45 AM
It may be a matter of having to simply buy a higher quality brake pad. I am not saying you are being cheap but i had that exact same problem once as well. I used to be able to buy a set of pads for my 88 full size jimmy for $18 and when it came time to buy a set for my 96 they were aout $50 and that was for name brand semi metallic as well, and that thing would squeal like a city bus when coming to a stop. I tried everything i could think of from applying a ton of anti squeal to the pads, to taking a grinder to the leading and trailing edges of the pad and chamfering them at about a 45º angle which was the parts store suggestion. I knew about that method but did not want to ruin a $50 set of brake pads, anyhow that did not work either. To make a long story shorter they took back the pads and exchanged them for a set of what they called "first run" or top quality name brand and i never heard a peep from the brakes again.
silveradoking
05-07-2006, 08:22 PM
That's kind of funny....I bought a set of Monroe pads that cost about 60 bucks....and put then in the rear...and they sucked....Then I replaced them with a even cheaper brand that was about 40 bucks...and they still squeal......the part store said that they have an organic pad, as well....whatever that is......But I might have to try that method out, where you cut the pads at 45 degrees.....however I have to check it out, because I think they are already cut at 45......thanks for all your help....
chuck16
05-08-2006, 01:13 PM
I'm no brake expert but, if you have slotted rotors don't you have to use Ceramic Brake pads? I remember reading a few of these posts and guys were saying if the upgraded their discs they had to upgrade the pads. I would try that anyways. Don't want to ruin your fancy new rotors....
Cheers
Evan
Cheers
Evan
silveradoking
05-08-2006, 07:56 PM
I hope that I don't have to buy new pads....I will have to check this out...Thanks....
abaird
05-08-2006, 08:22 PM
If you have them all apart, wash everything in soapy water. That will get any metal particles out that may be in there causing a vibration. Also make sure you break them in properly. 10-20 hard stops form 25 to 0 mph.
silverado122775
05-11-2006, 01:34 PM
Semi-metallic are known for sqeaky noises.. Ceramics won't sqeal at all. That is what GM puts on.. they are more expensive, but they are a much better pad all in all.
Of even more value to brake repair facilities is the ability of ceramic lining compounds to significantly reduce annoying brake noise or squeal, which is the No. 1 consumer complaint relating to brake service. Ceramic compounds dampen noise and move brake pad vibrations to a frequency outside of our human hearing range, 20 Hz through 20,000 Hz. As with earlier disc brake pad designs, some ceramic pad applications may also incorporate other noise-reducing features such as chamfers, slots and insulator shims. One leading aftermarket manufacturer has gone as far as naming its line of ceramic brake pads "Quiet Stop."
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov2002/mech.cfm
this what organic pads are made of:
Organic - Made of stuff like cellulose, which is like ground up cardboard! The cellulose is held together with a phenolic resin binder which is a heat resistant thermosetting resin. Pot handles and stuff like that is made of phenolics. Organic pads used to have asbestos to give better high temp properties but since asbestos is now a carcinogenic a no-no, kevlar, fiberglass and mineral fillers are now also used. Organic pads have a good coefficient of friction for a light pedal effort, work well at low temperatures and are very quite. They do not work so good for high performance use as they quickly wear, fade, oxidize and crumble. Organic pads are kind of old school and are common on cheap aftermarket replacement pads for older and sometimes new cars. These pads do not wear the rotors very much. Some cars have these as stock pads. Beware of these as they are worse than the stock pads. Suspect any cheap aftermarket pad. Organic pads are usually a light brown or tan in color.
Of even more value to brake repair facilities is the ability of ceramic lining compounds to significantly reduce annoying brake noise or squeal, which is the No. 1 consumer complaint relating to brake service. Ceramic compounds dampen noise and move brake pad vibrations to a frequency outside of our human hearing range, 20 Hz through 20,000 Hz. As with earlier disc brake pad designs, some ceramic pad applications may also incorporate other noise-reducing features such as chamfers, slots and insulator shims. One leading aftermarket manufacturer has gone as far as naming its line of ceramic brake pads "Quiet Stop."
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov2002/mech.cfm
this what organic pads are made of:
Organic - Made of stuff like cellulose, which is like ground up cardboard! The cellulose is held together with a phenolic resin binder which is a heat resistant thermosetting resin. Pot handles and stuff like that is made of phenolics. Organic pads used to have asbestos to give better high temp properties but since asbestos is now a carcinogenic a no-no, kevlar, fiberglass and mineral fillers are now also used. Organic pads have a good coefficient of friction for a light pedal effort, work well at low temperatures and are very quite. They do not work so good for high performance use as they quickly wear, fade, oxidize and crumble. Organic pads are kind of old school and are common on cheap aftermarket replacement pads for older and sometimes new cars. These pads do not wear the rotors very much. Some cars have these as stock pads. Beware of these as they are worse than the stock pads. Suspect any cheap aftermarket pad. Organic pads are usually a light brown or tan in color.
jumpingjack66
05-13-2006, 01:29 AM
i watched a automotive show on speed channel i think today or yesterday and they did a tour of i think brembo or one of the big hy po brake makers and they recomended with there slotted and drilled rotors too stay mwithsemi metalic and do not they stated put ceramic on them. Having heard this i tucked it away thinking that it was good to know when i do my front brakes and disks which arer original with 75,000 miles on them. The rotor are defective but they would not replace them so im using them up till i can do the slotted drilled change over. silveradoking you mentioned you put the stop sqeal stuff only on the center of the piston area?Why? My advise and experience is to applie it evenly across the bach of the pad good and thik and let it set up a bit before putting it together. All that stuff is is blue(usually) silicone and iive even bought the big rtv tubes to save money. Point is the more the better, your not going to hurt anything by applieing it generousl and by doing that you wil stop any vibration from starting and propagating to the edges of the pad. That squeak you hear is only a vibration that is getting started and reaching a freqency you can hear...jj
silveradoking
05-13-2006, 10:30 PM
I put the anti squeal on the parts that touch the caliper (brake pad touching caliper).....I have been a bit busy, so I haven't been able to take it apart, but I believe I will have some time tommorrow.....I'll keep you guys posted....
jumpingjack66
05-14-2006, 12:24 AM
I put the anti squeal on the parts that touch the caliper (brake pad touching caliper).....I have been a bit busy, so I haven't been able to take it apart, but I believe I will have some time tommorrow.....I'll keep you guys posted....
Well, If you mean the only place you put anti sqeal is were the piston is pressing on the back of the pad then thats your sqeal. Like i Said spread it on generouslybut evenly all the way across the pad from side to side and end to end on the back of the pad. That should stop it and if it dont then ........well just through the truck away and get you a new one......lol...jj
Well, If you mean the only place you put anti sqeal is were the piston is pressing on the back of the pad then thats your sqeal. Like i Said spread it on generouslybut evenly all the way across the pad from side to side and end to end on the back of the pad. That should stop it and if it dont then ........well just through the truck away and get you a new one......lol...jj
chevytrucks99
02-01-2009, 09:08 PM
If you have them all apart, wash everything in soapy water. That will get any metal particles out that may be in there causing a vibration. Also make sure you break them in properly. 10-20 hard stops form 25 to 0 mph.
I just saw this one and had to laugh.
washing your pads in soapy water will cause unwanted gripping this may cause an accident. And i do not advise it.
I just saw this one and had to laugh.
washing your pads in soapy water will cause unwanted gripping this may cause an accident. And i do not advise it.
sierra99
02-03-2009, 08:00 AM
As for buying cheaper pads, I would not do it. I am all for cheaper parts other than from a dealer (within reason). But when I get 140,000 miles on the original set of pads, I want them on again. I went to the dealer and told him what did my truck come with?? Ceramics for $90.00. I never hesitated, I would have paid more to get that kind of mileage. I usually go through a set every 30k miles on other trucks with cheap pads with a lifetime warranty, but not this time.
In my opinion there are somethings that are worth the money:
1. ac delco duralast ceramic pads
2 ac delco/ delphi fuel pump. (trust me on this one, I learned the hard way)
I hope I do not offend some of the pros here when I say to get some aftermarket parts, tie rods, shocks, etc. But there are some that are a necessity as I indicated above.
In my opinion there are somethings that are worth the money:
1. ac delco duralast ceramic pads
2 ac delco/ delphi fuel pump. (trust me on this one, I learned the hard way)
I hope I do not offend some of the pros here when I say to get some aftermarket parts, tie rods, shocks, etc. But there are some that are a necessity as I indicated above.
sierra99
02-03-2009, 08:02 AM
As for buying cheaper pads, I would not do it. I am all for cheaper parts other than from a dealer (within reason). But when I get 140,000 miles on the original set of pads, I want them on again. I went to the dealer and told him what did my truck come with?? Ceramics for $90.00. I never hesitated, I would have paid more to get that kind of mileage. I usually go through a set every 30k miles on other trucks with cheap pads with a lifetime warranty, but not this time.
In my opinion there are somethings that are worth the money:
1. ac delco duralast ceramic pads
2 ac delco/ delphi fuel pump. (trust me on this one, I learned the hard way)
I hope I do not offend some of the pros here when I say to get some aftermarket parts, tie rods, shocks, etc. But there are some that are a necessity as I indicated above.
let me add another must from ac/delco.....stock factory ac spark plugs... I forgot if they were iridium or platinum, but they are a must get to replace also.
In my opinion there are somethings that are worth the money:
1. ac delco duralast ceramic pads
2 ac delco/ delphi fuel pump. (trust me on this one, I learned the hard way)
I hope I do not offend some of the pros here when I say to get some aftermarket parts, tie rods, shocks, etc. But there are some that are a necessity as I indicated above.
let me add another must from ac/delco.....stock factory ac spark plugs... I forgot if they were iridium or platinum, but they are a must get to replace also.
isie
02-03-2009, 08:45 AM
I agree with using AC/Delco brakes. I put them on both of my trucks originals lasted over 100,000 only replaced them as they were over 100,000 still had 50% left. rotors on both trucks (03 1500 z71, 03 2500hd) I miced them and they were not even worn. new AC/Delco no problems. I have also done brakes for my buddies and they used the cheap stuff and got sqeeks and they wore out like lightening.Also agree on the AC/Delco plugs.
kahjdh
02-03-2009, 06:41 PM
Permatex hi-temp silicone.
Lay a bead across the back of all 4 pads, not too much, and be sure to have it all back together and drive it before it sets up. Done this on everyone of my cars and have never had a squeeling problem.
Lay a bead across the back of all 4 pads, not too much, and be sure to have it all back together and drive it before it sets up. Done this on everyone of my cars and have never had a squeeling problem.
jyount
02-03-2009, 07:18 PM
Not trying to ask stupid questions here or nothing, but did you brake kleen or soap and water the cosmoline off the new rotors? If not and it is heated into them you may end up having to have just a tad ground off the new rotors just to get it off.
j cAT
02-03-2009, 07:36 PM
Not trying to ask stupid questions here or nothing, but did you brake kleen or soap and water the cosmoline off the new rotors? If not and it is heated into them you may end up having to have just a tad ground off the new rotors just to get it off.
I use mineral sprits,then if necessary a light sanding with 150 / 250 grit paper circular motion...wipe clean...
I use mineral sprits,then if necessary a light sanding with 150 / 250 grit paper circular motion...wipe clean...
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