Temp 210?

Ok i know this subject has been covered many times, but I have a 93 blazer 4.3 CPI 4x4 218,000 miles. Just had the tranny rebuilt a couple of months ago, water pump changed the heater core replaced and the front end rebuilt. I still have several problems but the one that concerns me the most is the temp. It runs at 210 - 220 degrees all the time even before I had done any work to it. I know it has a 195 thermastat in it, so my question is it bad to run this warm and will it hurt the tranny running this warm and if so do you think i may have gotten a bad thermostat. the reason I ask is as i drive it gets to temp I seem to have less power than when it was cooler. Any thought or opinions would be very much appreciated.
Thanks.

The normal operating temp for our vehicles is about 180 F.
The cost of a new thermostat is an inexpensive fix for a potential problem, only about $8. If you haven't replaced your radiator with a new 16 lb stant, you should do that also.

Its not a good idea to keep running it at that temperature. If its running sluggish when it gets really hot, thats the computer trimming the fuel, running it a little leaner - its desgined to do that. Have you ever had a cooling system flush done? Also, how old is your rad. I would first go with the thermostat for sure and see what happens from there.

I dont know haw old the rad is I have only owned the vihicle for about a year most of that time I have been driving a diff vehicle trying to get this one to run right, but I am dedicated to this vehicle now and am finding more and more wrong. I believe the previouse owner had flushed the system as there is a plastic T in the heater hose to perform the flush procedure. I just dont want to cause any more damage to the vehicle by running this warm, I didn't think this was a good temp to run - now I know.

I looked at my freindly neighborhood always get the parts wrong store and they said I am supose to have a 195 deg thermostat will that allow it to run at about 180 deg or should I keep looking and find a 180 thermostat.

Am I missing something but how does a 195 degree thermostat allow the engine to run at 180 degrees. Surely it is going to run at 195 or more.

How do you know that your engine is running at 210 - maybe you have a bad sensor?


Mark

Mark, I kinda figured the same thing - I figure maybe I have a bad thermostat but as billibong said it should run 180 however my parts store says 195 so im trying to figure out what temp is best. and to answer your question I have the factory temp gauge on dash

I was told that my engine should be running at 195 degrees. 1989 4.2l V6. Right now it has a 170 degree thermostat in there (fitted by previous owner) and the coolant runs at 170 degrees.

I would replace your thermostat with a new 195 degree thermostat and see at what temp your engine runs.

You can also check your thermostat by putting it in a pan of water and heating it over the stove. You will be able to see the thernmostat open and a good thermometer in the water will confirm the opening temperature.



Mark

The temperature stamped on the thermostat, is the temperature that the thermostat begins to open. Unless it is defective, it will not allow the engines operating temperature to be below what is stamped on the thermostat. The most accurate way to check engine operating temperature is with an infra-red thermometer focused on the thermostat housing or upper radiator hose near the thermostat housing. The most accurate method for testing the thermostat is to put the thermostat in a pan of water, along with a candy thermometer, and heat the water. Notice what temperature it begins to open.

195F is the correct temperature thermostat for that vehicle. Using a cooler thermostat will decrease fuel mileage and performance. During warm-up, the PCM gradually leans the fuel mixture until the correct coolant temperature is obtained.

If your thermostat does in fact open at the correct temperature, check the operating temperature of the engine. If engine operating temperature is hotter than the thermostat, there is a fault with the cooling system; water pump, fan, fan clutch, radiator, radiator cap, hoses etc.

Replace the rad cap with a stant or any other brand other than AC Delco.

Your cap is not holding pressure.

Right now if you go outside and open the rad cap I can bet money the coolant is not right up to the top in the rad.

fan not enguageing??? my s 10 with the 4.3 ran a click below 210, 205 ish... now with the small block in mine its still just a tick below 210... the driveability issue could be something under the hood acting up when hot? but 210 isn't a bad number

well I didnt make it to the thermostat, I replaced the rad cap with a 16lb cap seem to help on the temp a little not exactly sure how much, I have uncovered a very bad weakness in the rad antifreeze blowing out the bottum of the radiator, it looks like I must have piked up a rock or something getting slung off the fan into the radiator - not sure how but none the less I now have a small dent in the fins of the rad at the bottom about where it is leaking, Soooo now its off to the radiator shop to see if it is an easy fix or best to replace, What do you guys think? it does seem to be a fairly new radiator, I don't know anymore - sorry to ramble just getting frustrated at all the repairs.
thanks for everyones help!!

The cap will allow a higher pressure in the cooling system which will just raise the boiling temperature of the coolant. If you weren't loosing coolant before then I wouldn't expect it to make much difference to the running temp.

I imagine that they can just solder the small hole. Are the internal waterways clear - a blocked radiator can cause overheating. In the old days I had a radiator shop take of the top and bottom tanks off and rod the core through. They can check and see if the radiator is blocked in any way.

Mark

well I didnt make it to the thermostat, I replaced the rad cap with a 16lb cap seem to help on the temp a little not exactly sure how much, I have uncovered a very bad weakness in the rad antifreeze blowing out the bottum of the radiator, it looks like I must have piked up a rock or something getting slung off the fan into the radiator - not sure how but none the less I now have a small dent in the fins of the rad at the bottom about where it is leaking, Soooo now its off to the radiator shop to see if it is an easy fix or best to replace, What do you guys think? it does seem to be a fairly new radiator, I don't know anymore - sorry to ramble just getting frustrated at all the repairs.
thanks for everyones help!!

Replace the rad.

It cools your oil, your tranny fluid along with your engine coolant.

Nickel and diming a cheap fix for a damaged rad could cost you 1000s more down the road.

Also remember, the temperature for the rad should be just a small amount below the 210 mark. That is completely normal.

It might be time for a coolant flush and change.

FYI.....after putting in a new engine, radiator, waterpump, thermostat, cooling lines and 16 lb cap the ECT sensor (not the gauge) read through autotap consistently comes in at 200-205 degrees.

well I have replaced the rad the rad cap, thermostat and seals. the temp seems to back to normal with no water leaks. Blazes I believe you got the power loss right it does seem to perform conciderably better.

Thanks everyone for all your helpfull advice, Always seem to make the job easier when you know some one else has been there done that. Thanks again

Yea, glad to help and you did a smart thing by fixing it properly.