Mobil1 for a '99 suburban?

I am thinking of switching my '99 suburban over to Mobil1 synthetic oil. It has the 5.7 liter motor with 91000 miles. Is this a good idea? If so what is a good oil filter to use? I have had the valve lifters replaced and still have the clicking lifters at start up, at least they don't do it all the time like they did....

thanks

I use Mobil1 in my 99' and have had no problems, I use Mobil 1 in all of my vehicles.

I've just started running Mobil 1 in my 99, also run it my 91 Toyota, 2003 Impala. I change the filter every 3,000 miles and change the oil every 6-9,000, depending on the weather (I don't do mid winter oil changes any more..... Michigan winters and old bones don't mix real well). so far it works well in all applications.

I am thinking of switching my '99 suburban over to Mobil1 synthetic oil. It has the 5.7 liter motor with 91000 miles. Is this a good idea? If so what is a good oil filter to use? I have had the valve lifters replaced and still have the clicking lifters at start up, at least they don't do it all the time like they did....

thanks

Yes it would be a good idea.
A person cange over anywhere from 25K up to high mileage of over 100k with no problems as long as the engine is not sludged up real bad from not changing oil regular.
It is good oil.
I have noticed that about 5K the oil will start to get black/dirty.
It is not worn out just dirty. Good time to change it at/around 5K.
The best oil filters for a GM is the OEM type AC-Delco filters.
You can get them a lot of places for around 3 dollar range.
A oil filter change in between oil changes would help keep the oil cleaner.
MT

MT-2500 is correct. If you use AC/Delco filters, that's fine. WIX, Champ, and Hastings filters are also good. Unless you are changing filters every 3-5,000 miles and extending your drain intervals to 15,000 miles, there is no need to use "designer" oil filters such as Mobil 1 or K&N. At all costs, avoid Fram and any of their re-branded filters, such as "Pennzoil" and whatever other labels Allied Signal puts on their filters.

If the engine has some accumulated mileage on mineral oil (especially the multi-viscosity type which everyone seems to like), you can expect that it also has some accumulated sludge. The polyalphaolefin base of Mobil 1 and AMSOIL will start softening these sludge deposits right away. The good things are: These deposits will be removed from your engine; Any restricted oil passages will be cleaned out and oil will flow at its intended rate; Deposits around piston rings will be cleaned for eventual improved sealing, and the resultant return of power/efficiency; Oil seals will begin to soften and seal properly due to the natural seal conditioning and added coinditioners of the synthetic; Friction will be reduced to a bare minimum so your engine wear rate should diminish to nearly nothing.

The bad things (in the short term) are: These deposits will be circulated through the oil. Use a decent filter (see above) and plan on changing the filter and topping off the sump after you see the oil start to turn darker, or about 1,500 miles; Sludge deposits around seals and gaskets will also be removed. If these deposits are masking ANY leakage or seepage, you may experience some drips as the sludge is cleared away; Until the seal conditioning has had an opportunity to become effective, and seals are again pliable instead of hard, leakage may continue, or you may get no leakage at all (I didn't); The cost will be higher for the first couple changes, since the drain interval should not be extended much beyond your "normal" drain interval for mineral oil, and you will use an extra filter or two.

The eventual gains far outweigh the costs and possible short term problems. If you already have seals torn or damaged beyond repair, synthetics will not magiacally fix them. If you only have the typical seal hardening for an older engine, the synthetic will eventually soften tham and allow good sealing. Remember that the synthetic will not CAUSE any leakage, but will reveal any leakage that may be present but is being masked by sludge accumulation. This is where the urbal myth of "synthetic creating leaks" was begun.

If you're set on using Mobil 1, you can actually do the changes for little more than what decent mineral oil would cost. Despite my dislike of WalMart (for various reasons), they are the only place I can find that offers Mobil 1 in 5-quart jugs (must be a marketing agreement), and they are only about $21. I usually bite the bullet, run in and grab about 6-8 jugs in a couple viscosities, and shamefully make my way through the checkouts. That's less than double the cost of good mineral oil, and is still the same old "Tri-Synthetic" Mobil 1, not the "Mobil 5000" mineral oil. I've seen 4-quart jugs elsewhere for almost $25.

What is wrong with Fram filters? They seem to be the only brand that can be found around here.

What is wrong with Fram filters? They seem to be the only brand that can be found around here.


One thing they are short on the good filtering stuff inside.
Another thing they are not set up good to control oil pressure right.
For over 45 years I have saw oil pressure problems with them.
Do a search on oil filters. There is a lot of info on AF about oil filters.
Here is one link to look at.
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html
Also a air filter link.
home.usadatanet.net/~jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm

On a GM AC-delco oil filter is one of the best and has good prices.
Search around and you can buy them for 2.50-3.00$ us
Also AC delco parts has a web page.
Any of your better parts places will have AC delco stuff and you can buy them online.
MT