100K Tuneup for 1999 LeSabre

OK our LeSabre is coming up on 100,000 miles. I'm sure nothing has been done to it. I flushed the dexcool this winter. There's no idication of coolant loss yet (knock on wood) or I'd be changing the intake on it.

What should I make sure to cover/change besides the normal, plugs, wires, serpentine belt, O2 sensors, Transmission fluid/filter, ???

Car is running fine and getting 27-28 mpg.

How about the fuel filter?

PCV valve and cabin air filter (not an engine component, but it'll help you breathe easier!)

Good ideas keep em coming.

What kind/brand plugs and wires?

AC Delcos!!! No Bosch, as these engines don't seem to like them. Also, change your plugs and wires at the same time and invest in some di-electric grease to put in the boots. Don't skimp on the quality of your plug wires either--you don't have to get the most expensive, but don't get cheapies.

Also, the plugs with multiple spark points (the actual name escapes me at the moment) are kinda pointless...you're only going to get one spark regardless.

Otherwise I think it has been mostly named...plugs, wires, filters, O2, oil, tranny fluid/filter (if it hasn't been done for about 40k-50k miles...may be more for the newer engine tho), PCV, rubber vaccum lines, top off power steering, and maybe a can of SeaFoam or Lucas engine treatment wouldn't hurt either.

Im looking for a repair manual and the haynes is $23 dollars! yikes

Any recommendations?

Look on ebay for a factory repair manual, you might find one for the price of a haynes or chiltons after shipping costs! I got my Park Ave factory electrical manual for 30 dollars total in excellent condition, and my Lesabre manual (also factory) for less than 7 bucks! It have the haynes manuals also, however they are not anywhere near as detailed as the factory copies. I've found also, in certain cases, the aftermarket brand manuals had false information in the wiring diagrams after comparing them with the factory manual.

When you replace the PCV valve do not forget about replacing or transferring the black o-ring otherwise you may get EGR flow problems shortly thereafter.

Also, the plastic retainer prongs for the MAP sensor are easy to break since it has to be removed to replace the PCV valve.

See guide below:

http://macgp.clubgp.com/howto/engine/pcv/gt/pcv.html

Thanks for the link Bnaylor

Loekey - I'm still looking for manuals - not much on ebay at this time. I guess I'll be relying on the forum here if I have questions. I'm still assembling my parts. Im looking for a lifetime oem style set of new plug wires. I dont want to have to do any cutting or making up the wire set. Di-electrical grease is on my list too.
I'm thinking of only replacing the upstream O2 sensor since it is the one that takes the abuse. The car is running fine now and I almost hate to mess with it but Im getting ready to commute 75 miles a day and wont have time later.

Where's the fuel filter? I havent taken the cover off the engine yet to look for it.

Thanks for the link Bnaylor

Loekey - I'm still looking for manuals - not much on ebay at this time. I guess I'll be relying on the forum here if I have questions. I'm still assembling my parts. Im looking for a lifetime oem style set of new plug wires. I dont want to have to do any cutting or making up the wire set. Di-electrical grease is on my list too.
I'm thinking of only replacing the upstream O2 sensor since it is the one that takes the abuse. The car is running fine now and I almost hate to mess with it but Im getting ready to commute 75 miles a day and wont have time later.

Where's the fuel filter? I havent taken the cover off the engine yet to look for it.

Hapynzap

Your fuel filter is at the right rear just ahead of the fuel tank. I had one of the connections to the filter start leaking and now it has a hose.

Regards

Dan

Gosh...I was looking at the link for the replacement of the the series two PCV valve and it looks like a piece of cake compared with what I have to deal with with my series 1 engine. The PCV valve is hiding alongside the rear of the intake manifold near the exhaust...the only good thing about changing one is the clamshell hood allows easy access to that part of the engine bay :)

Although the car may be running fine now, I guaruntee you that it will run like a dream after you replace all the above parts...and you will probably notice a bit better fuel economy too. You will probably need the better part of a day if you are working with standard tools -- i.e. no lift and air tools.

Oh joy - with no lift I guess I'll be jacking and blocking the car to crawl under and change the fuel filter. Im assuming there's no special toold needed.

Do the O2 sensors come out easier if hot or cold? I used to have the special socket somewhere. I suppose I'll have to rent one from the auto parts store. No bosch O2's huh? what brand then? Do you put anything on the new threads?

Oh joy - with no lift I guess I'll be jacking and blocking the car to crawl under and change the fuel filter. Im assuming there's no special toold needed.

When I did the fuel filter on my '91, I was glad it was on a lift... the fittings were on there very tight, and working around the other brake & fuel lines was a bit tricky. Perhaps they've made the filter a bit easier to change now...

Do the O2 sensors come out easier if hot or cold? I used to have the special socket somewhere. I suppose I'll have to rent one from the auto parts store. No bosch O2's huh? what brand then? Do you put anything on the new threads?

Sensor & exhaust should be warm. O2's can be really tough to get out cold.

There is a special socket with a slot for the wire to pass through, but I tend to use a crows-foot type 3/8" drive attachment or a normal wrench.

I think the no-Bosch warning was mainly spark plugs. But you can get AC/Delco sensors at rockauto.com, competitively priced. I've read some things indicating that the AC/Delco ones may be the better bet.

YES - DO put anti-seize on the new threads. The sensor should come with some already on there. But make sure it has it...

- GB

Yes, the no-bosch was mainly for the plugs, but an oem O2 would be best, although I have had bosch O2's before without problems (But I've heard stories otherwise from other people). I just use a 22mm open face wrench to get the O2 loose, but only from sitting my knees on the edge of the engine bay and leaning in to reach it. Antisieze is a good idea when you put a new one in, too.

One trick I found to get the car up enough to change out the fuel filter was to run the drivers side rear tire up on a tall curb. This ought to give you an extra 6 inches to a foot of clearance plus extra if you decide to use a jack too...just be sure to have a jack stand up and the park brake engaged too.

Also, release the fuel pressure by engaging the scrader valve on the fuel lines by the intake plenum and open your gas cap to allow extra pressure to vent. Expect to smell like gas when you're done :)

How bout this repair manual on eBay - is this a good deal?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8066096579