In Progress - Tamiya Ducati Desmosedici

This is the Tamiya 1/12 ducati desmosedici and I’ve decided to give a bike a go after seeing all the great bike builds lately, along side the Datsun I'm also building as well. Should keep me busy for a while, if I ever stop making posts on this forum, and get a damn compressor sorted out.. LOL

I’ve always had a fondness for bikes, ever since a small boy I’ve loved the machines but have always been a little intimidated by building a bike kit. I’ve never owned a real bike, it’s more of a taboo thing for me, look but don’t touch so I guess this is the nearest I’ll ever get to owning one. Well not true, I tried 15 years ago to put a Tamiya bike kit together, and it was a disaster.

I got the kit, and looked inside the box, and was like WOW. I just have to build this. As it happens, hiroboy in the UK has setup shop selling a whole load of bike upgrades, so promptly went overkill, and purchased Crazy Modeler P/E set, bike stand and tobacco sponsorship decals, but not to be content wirth this I also bought the front fork upgrades as well.

All in all, a tidy sum for a model but I’m sure with my new experience of building cars, and using P/E etc I’m going to be fine. Although a lot of anxiety is setting in. Lets hope I don’t stuff this up.

Pictures of all the goodies, including TS Red paint, and also shipped from Japan Tamiya Metal Surface primer.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/51866/mode/L/img.jpg

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/51867/mode/L/img.jpg

And, all the aftermarket supplies, and this is it. I’ve done nothing more then get ready for building a super detailed bike kit. In fact, it’s not going to be “super super” detailed, but for me, this is going to be pretty detailed without making my own parts.

Also, the P/E parts and decals from crazy modeler look VERY easy to work with, and give VERY good value for money. Overall, judging from past P/E sets, this is some of the finest I’ve ever seen, lets see how the fitment is shall we?

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/51868/mode/L/img.jpg

Nice lot of detail parts there. Cant wait to see the progress on this one.

You have there lots of extra material.
Im sure that will be a great model.
I will follow this progress with very attention.
Have a good work.

Miguel
Portugal

Any idea where parts 16, 27, and 29 on the Ducati Photoetch sheet are used. The others are all shown on the instructions. I am assuming they must be for the engine and frame but will have to look into it further before I do any more on my version of the Bayliss bike.
Cheers
Tony

You have there lots of extra material.
Im sure that will be a great model.
I will follow this progress with very attention.
Have a good work.

Miguel
Portugal

Funny you should mention that, as I noticed this last night as I was doing my study of the parts. Also, I'm confused with the chain, not sure how you build the llinks. I know you stick the two frames for the link together, and build the fly wheel bolts etc that the chain wraps around, but what about the additional links provided? The intructions show apply number 4 in 4 places, and that is it. do you do this all around the chain, or just in places?

Also, I'm confused with the chain, not sure how you build the llinks. I know you stick the two frames for the link together, and build the fly wheel bolts etc that the chain wraps around, but what about the additional links provided? The intructions show apply number 4 in 4 places, and that is it. do you do this all around the chain, or just in places?

check this out, it will be more clear

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=524446&page=4

Stop it............:wink:
I keep looking at these parts and it's really making me want to sue up stock on my own builds, but I must not :(

why the metal primer?

nice to see someone using these products. Mick, i hope this build will be as good as you build your cars. :)

btw dont forget to post this on spc!

The metal primer is to prime the P/E parts that need painting. and I've just been going over all that I've got, and I've noticed that the Crazy Modeler P/E set is missing a few parts that would be nice to have, such as mesh and also the front brake disc. You get the inside of the front brake disc but not the actual disc. Acu stion do these, but it's yet more cost to what is already becoming a very expensive model.

And the chain, from the looks of it, needs to be assembled from all those little links. Oh joy, but I'm still trying to work out how the chain works. I take it you glue the little links to one side of the larger chain, but do you glue two links back to back, and then attach to a the large P/E parts and then put the two larger chain sections together, or leave them as a single chain link? I'll work it out I guess.

Edit -

Ah, I've worked the chain out. It's easy now that I've realised. You stick the flat surface to the larger chain on both sides, and then stick both chains together, and it looks like a real chain. In fact, it looks pretty darn real...

Ok, should I order the front disc brake set as well from acu stion and get the mesh as well? Another £10 but I've already spent £40 on this.. LOL..

Made a start on this one. The box is busting with parts. Three whole trees of many parts. One tree appears to be mainly body panels, and I’m surprised on how much detail Tamiya have crammed into this kit.

Quick shot of the inside of the box, quite impressive I say –

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/51923/mode/L/img.jpg

And the engine pieces, so many for such a powerful power plant, careful construction required, so testing the parts as I clean them up. I’m not sure of the mechanics of a bike, never owned one, or been too close to any TBH, but I guess this should make a pretty accurate looking ducati motorbike engine.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/51924/mode/L/img.jpg

This is the motorbike frame. It has two small nuts on either side, but I wasn’t sure how to tackle this. Paint the frame and then build, or build the frame and then paint, but the nuts will get covered in paint. I’ve decided to build the frame, as after a number of tests fits, I couldn’t see how I can build it cleanly once painted. It needed a few small gaps filling to look complete, and not a collection of parts. So, I’ll just keep re-threading the nuts if they get too much paint in them.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/51925/mode/L/img.jpg

Like so, and also built the fuel tank, and filled in the awful seam line it left behind. I’ve noticed that this kit has a lot of parts you join, leaving seam lines. I take it this is the only way to mould the parts, but that’s OK, as I can soon fill and sand them away.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/51926/mode/L/img.jpg

And that’s all for now. I spent most of the time just studying the build guide and looking at the parts, as this is my first “real” bike build.

I just finished this kit, although box stock and I have alot of the construction fresh in my mind. Let me know if you have any questions...

Just stick some toothpicks in the nuts on the frame, that way you don't have to worry about re-threading them.

Been busy working on the bike body panels. The kit guide says TS 49, and then XF1 flat black inside.

I'll be honest, I see no way for me to spray the insides flat black, so I'll just crack out the flat head brush with enamel flat black for the insides of most of these panels. I'll be forever and a day tying to mask them off cleanly. Enamel flat black dries nicely if thinned well enough, and besides, I'll doubt you see much of the black anyhow.

I’ve constructed the panels as well using Tamiya thin cement. I use this, simply due to the fact this glue dries so fast. a couple of minutes and the glue has fused the plastic and it has some grip. Sadly, it doesn't fill the gaps too well.

But Tamiya liquid surface primer and good old putty fills the gaps in.

Still needs a lot of sanding, but I'm leaving it now to dry overnight.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/51930/mode/L/img.jpg

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/51932/mode/L/img.jpg

And thanks for the toothpick tip for the nuts. I’ll do that, as I was thinking perhaps blu tac..

So far so good :)

Ooo, another cool project started. Good to the the STi isn't keeping you down.

Looks like it will be a terrrific build- nice pile of PE you've amassed there! I've been avoiding 1/12 bikes for years now- I don't need another genre of kits to start aquiring! :grinno: Looking at this is not helping.... :rolleyes:

I suspect that in 1/12, a PE front disc would be too thin for scale- often PE is too thin for 1/24. Let's see some pics of this disc you're trying to replace.

I’ve now sanded all the parts I’ve assembled and filled last night. Took a while, but I want it to be right, as you can’t fix it once top coat is applied. So spend the time now, and it “should” be OK.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52067/mode/L/img.jpg

And I’ve made a start in assembling the exhaust systems. You certainly get a few parts with bike kits. The exhaust is made up of 8 separate pieces. The CM P/E set I got has replacement exhaust holds for under the rear cowling, but I’ll be honest, I didn’t like the look of them. The CM P/E is quite thick P/E, but I just didn’t feel it would be substantial enough. Maybe it would be once glued together, but I decided to NOT cut the kit holds off, and leave them well alone.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52068/mode/L/img.jpg

And exhausts assembled, and filled. Then sanded and I’ve applied some liquid surface primer over them to check for problems. I’ve also assembled the front brake calipers, and the front box, whatever it is…

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52069/mode/L/img.jpg

I’m posting up plenty of pictures, as this is my first bike, and so if someone spots a mistake, let me know. I’m not a lazy model builder, but I’m a bit clueless at times. LOL

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52070/mode/L/img.jpg

MPWR, I’ve decided after reading what you wrote to not get the P/E front discs, as I think this is why CM decided not to include this with the set, or he either didn’t to keep the cost down. But his P/E fret is actually a little thicker then say acu stion. It is nice P/E, and his decals look good as well. Time will tell, if I get that far. LOL

Been busy working on the bike body panels. The kit guide says TS 49, and then XF1 flat black inside.

And thanks for the toothpick tip for the nuts. I’ll do that, as I was thinking perhaps blu tac..

got this one on the bench as well. Of course you know the XF-1 is really CF. I'll be spraying the internal body panels with X-18 (acrylic semi-gloss black) after I shoot and finish the outer panels with TS 49.

and I'll be using stretched sprue threaded into the nuts to keep the paint out. Same as toothpicks!

Keep going and thanks for sharing!
Bill

Funny you should mention that the XF1 is actually CF. I was thinking perhaps this is meant to be CF, as the whole bikes body cowling would be fabricated from CF.

How are you planning to mask off the panels to spray X18 over them, as I looked it the panels from all angles, and it looks a PITA to spray them, so I’m just planning on using a good flat brush to brush paint them. It’s not like they’d be well seen – is it? Enamel paint mixed with a little lacquer thinner to give it some tooth can be brush painted fairly smooth.

Tell you something else, it’s thirsty with primer as well, as with a car you have a single large surface, with this you have many parts and they are a little larger, such as the engine is bigger then a car – scale difference obviously, but I’ve used more primer then I usually use on this already, and I’m not done yet.

Funny you should mention that the XF1 is actually CF. I was thinking perhaps this is meant to be CF, as the whole bikes body cowling would be fabricated from CF.

How are you planning to mask off the panels to spray X18 over them, as I looked it the panels from all angles, and it looks a PITA to spray them, so I’m just planning on using a good flat brush to brush paint them. It’s not like they’d be well seen – is it? Enamel paint mixed with a little lacquer thinner to give it some tooth can be brush painted fairly smooth.

Tell you something else, it’s thirsty with primer as well, as with a car you have a single large surface, with this you have many parts and they are a little larger, such as the engine is bigger then a car – scale difference obviously, but I’ve used more primer then I usually use on this already, and I’m not done yet.

Yup. the entire outside (and most of the inside besides the actual fuel tank and engine) are CF.

I'm going to do my usual...i.e. I use no primer (the TS sprays bond better with no primer) and paint and decal the entire surface, clear coar and polish and then simply spray the insides of the body panels with X-18. Easily cleaned up with alcohol.

I will probably not use ANY primer!!!

Bill

Here are some images of the CF on the bike, I was looking at the bike and I can say that the patern is very rough (on the inside of fairings) and doesn't look nice at all. It is on some places (and some bike models) reinforced with yellow patern (only the uper cowl) but I have seen this only on 2003 version bikes and early 2004.
other than that two paterns are used all over the bike, regular wave patern on airbox, foot pegs, little parts like chain guard etc. Rough patern (new SMS type) should be on the air intake horn.
Rear mudguard is the most complicated one because it is very shiny and has rather small patern (mostly like S27 one but almost black).
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b129/sasaj/2004_0320Velesajam0029.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b129/sasaj/2004_0320Velesajam0016.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b129/sasaj/201_1024.jpg
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b129/sasaj/40_R16_bike_detail.jpg

Thanks for the pictures, judging from those, flat black would be completely wrong, but what an expensive model it would be to place CF decals behind all the cowling. Anyone done this before?

And I’ve only got 1/24 twirl weave black, and 1/20 twirl weave black, I’ve not got any high tech CF decals. Is it really that important? This model is starting to really rack up in cost.

And I’ve always primed nearly all my models, and I’ve found TS paints work great with primer, so interesting to hear someone say they never use primer for TS paints.

Also, I’m planning to spray TS-49 red, decal and then spray X22 acrylic clear and hopefully not have to buff out too much, other then a compound and wax. If I get X18 acrylic overspray on the clear, it won’t come off, this is why I’d planned to brush paint the XF1.

I did the airbox assembly, cowling inners and other various pieces with scale motorsports cf decal. I used a combination of 1/20th and 1/12th for the parts and brush painted humbrol clear over them to give the imperfect epoxy impregnated look. I really wish I had known about the Marlboro decals and detail sets but I'll have to save it for the next Desmo!!! The cf decals really add a visual impact to the kit built that I really wouldn't do without..
Also as a note, I painted mine with decanted TS-49, polished and decalled and did not apply a clear but only wax over top. Most of these bikes have all of the logos digitally printed on vinyl then applied to the bike giving them a semi bordering on gloss finish. Under a coat of wax they look just right to me. Here's some pics. Sorry about the quality!!!http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL173/2131970/10076768/144222077.jpghttp://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL173/2131970/10076768/144222081.jpghttp://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL173/2131970/10076768/144222088.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL173/2131970/10076768/144222093.jpg
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL173/2131970/10076768/144222099.jpg

Raikkobin

Damn you.. LOL. Now I need to get some SMS high tech decals (was it high tech decals you used?), and I love the idea of putting CF decals in some of the cowling. That looks really good. I like it a lot. I’ve no problem with applying decals if they make the build look better for it, but SMS CF decals are expensive, so I don’t want to CF decal something you can’t see. But you can see it on your build, it makes a difference. Top stuff… Hope I get mine looking as good.

I’ll still perhaps clear the decals though, as they contain a lot of white, and hopefully using clear, and then storing on a good Tamiya case, they won’t yellow over time.

Ya, they stand out alot more than you would think, even with the fairings on. The only one that was dissapointing was the airbox as it took the longest and is the most hidden, still there are spots where the airbox pokes through so do the whole thing anyways! The sms cf decal is not the high definition stuff. Still very nice though...

I keep all my kits in a glass case and I try to keep them so they get the occasional bit of sunlight. It helps prolong the yellowing inevitability!!

And I’ve always primed nearly all my models, and I’ve found TS paints work great with primer, so interesting to hear someone say they never use primer for TS paints.



Tamiya primers work great when I need them (changing underlying colors or to help level out bodywork modifications), but I had a chat with David Dusrt (SRC fame) and he discussed that when sprayed diectly onto plastic, he observed that the TS sprays actually melded to the plastic and when sliced open (cross-section wise) you could actually see that the paint had been absorbed into the styrene. I'm guessing the thinner used in the TS paint actually melt the pigments into the plastic's surface. This assures that there will be no lifting of the paint from the surface when masking AND saves the expensive Tamiya primer for when it's really needed.

hth,
Bill

I've had the luck to have a proffesional paint and bodyman as a good friend and he's taught me the many in's and out's of good body and paint preparation on full size cars. You would be absolutely amazed at how similar models are in comparison to real cars....Primer is essential to see even the most minute of mistakes. However some people can just spot them without primer, they are lucky because 9 out of 10 times I can't!!! Primer is my friend and confidant!!!

I used to work in an auto repair shop that did a lot of high class body work. They never skipped a single stage of body panel repair. Etch primer, grey primer, cutting back, and then base, followed by whatever top coats and lacquers required.

Anyhow, I’m not looking to turn my WIP into a pros and cons of why and why you shouldn’t prime, to me it is as essential as me breathing when I work, as I can’t see shit without a coat of grey primer.

I’ve now primed the body cowling etc. Found a few faults that I wasn’t overly happy with, so filled and sanded again.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52791/mode/L/img.jpg

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52792/mode/L/img.jpg

I then followed this up with a few light coats of white primer. I didn’t get too much red plastic bleed, laid the primer a little too thick around the front nose cowling, but it’s not that bad, and will be fine.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52794/mode/L/img.jpg

I’ve started to build the P/E stand I got from hiroboy.com. The P/E used by CM is VERY thick for this, and I had one hell of a time bending it. In the end, I broke the thing into sections, and made some L shaped brackets. I then bent it into shape, and glued the L brackets to one halve of the stand from the back and then joined them back up all bent into the right shape. Turned out nice, and seems very strong. Bent using Tamiya P/E bending pliers, they are OK, but for this they didn’t really cut it too well. To intricate. Also the CM P/E stand doesn’t give new wheels or plastic stand hold. You need to use the kit parts, but that’s OK, as the CM stand is a WHOLE lot cheaper then the Tamiya counterpart.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52795/mode/L/img.jpg

Body cowling and frame etc have had 2 mists, one slightly heavy and then a single wet coat of TS-49 applied. I’m going to sand with 2400 to just cut the slight texture out, and then apply a final coat of TS-49. Pictures make it look a little orange, it’s not it is pure bright red. Nice colour.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52796/mode/L/img.jpg

As the paint is curing off, ready for final cutting back and wet coat, I’ve decided to build the P/E chain. The chains is made up of over a hundred P/E parts. It’s a nightmare to build, I was really confused at first. Then it dawned on me how to build the thing. You basically stick the two chain shapes into one, with the flat sides pointing outwards, and then attached bolts, nuts and links to the outer face. Slowly, with toothpicks, C/A glue, Tamiya diamond file, and P/E cutters I’ve managed to get this far. Its not going to win awards, but it looks functional, and pretty real, as it has the look of a chain if nothing else, and is an improvement on the kit supplied chain. I’m sorry for the poor picture, my camera is about buggered, and it doesn’t focus too well anymore. Also, I’m pleased you get a few spare P/E parts, as I’ve had a few go pinging around the room so far. LOL

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52797/mode/L/img.jpg

I also sanded the whole chain with 400, then 600 grit paper to take the shine off. I’ll then wash and rub a little granite into it, and it should look pretty realistic.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52798/mode/L/img.jpg

That’s all for now.

Holy bagoly....looking good!!!

Another update, I’m unable to put this model down tonight. I just seem to be in the zone at the moment. LOL

I’ve now completed the swing arm. It is basically sprayed with semi gloss black, then detail painted a mix of X10 + X31 for the arm adjuster bolts (or whatever they are).

I’ve applied CM bolt heads to some parts of the arm, and also applied the CM P/E set arm brackets. Again you’re meant to bend them into shape, and then clip onto the swing arm. It didn’t quite work out like that. I opted to break them into two parts, and this gave me some room to work with.

I’ve also got the chain built on one side, still needs work. But no looking too bad. And I’ve also assembled the rear brake disc using P/E parts. I sanded using various grades of sand paper to change the colour of the metal, and give a slightly used look.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/52799/mode/L/img.jpg

Damn, your working quick on this, looks really good.

Yes its comming along very nicley.

Primer is essential to see even the most minute of mistakes. However some people can just spot them without primer, they are lucky because 9 out of 10 times I can't!!! Primer is my friend and confidant!!!

Agreed, but a simple guide coat during the sanding/polishing prep stage can help you find any problems.

hth,
Bill

As always, YMMV and you should do what you are comfortable with. You mentioned etching primer, that is what the TS-49 sprayed on bare plastic does. It etches into the surface making for an incredible strong bond. Not using primer also removes one stumbling block that 1:1 painters do not face and that is the ability to tint the primer for the color coat. Rarely if ever would a 1:1 painter use a white primer for a red car...or a black car...or a silver car...etc., yet most modelers using hobby primers do just that.

To each his own...;-)>

oh, and good work on this one so far!

Bill

Bill,

I do agree that 1:1 painters do tint primer. They use a metal etch primer first, and then say for a yellow, they’d perhaps mix an off white, like cream primer. I did this for my Pennzoil Skyline, but I had to spray the primer though my airbrush, it was messy, but when used with TS-47 Chrome Yellow, the result was very good.

Like Reds, they’d use a pink primer and so on and so on. I was intrigued with your idea of TS paints etching into the plastic, and it’s something I’m going to test, as I’ve got a scrap body lying around. It’s on my to do list.

As you say though, it’s really down to what everyone feels comfortable with. Anyhow, I’ll be posting more updates soon, as I’ve now started to Alclad many of the mechanical parts, and I’ve now completed building that chain. Took ages, but looks nice. Pictures coming soon. LOL

More progress on the ducati.

I’ve gone overkill with Alclad II. Got me a compressor now, so I’ve got bags of air, always had a load of hot air, but now I’ve not some compressed air I can use for my airbrush. Spraying Alclad II with air cans always was a bit like taking a 20lb hammer to tune a piano. But now, I can control the air pressure, and do some fancy tricks.

The engine block I applied the white metal Alclad II at 20psi, over a black I’d sprayed that was sprayed at 30 psi from a distance. It has made it look like real cast metal, whereas the exhaust systems are sprayed with a darker aluminum, and the front brakes magnesium. The rest is painted with standard Alclad II aluminum.

Picture doesn’t really do it any justice. Trying to take a picture at this time of night, with my camera, is like hoping to have a million bucks drop from the sky – it isn’t going to happen. Shame really. Anyhow, it looks good by eye, so I’m happy with it. Be fine once I’ve washed and detailed.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/53403/mode/L/img.jpg

Also assembled all the P/E. I really should have studied how to assemble the chain better. I did OK, but it’s never going to win an award. I lost far too many links as they went pinging around the room. After I’d built one side, I was worried I’d not have enough. I lost that many. Then I realised, something I’d read about cutting P/E in bags. Yep, after that I lost no more, but the damage had been done. I was short by about five links. So sadly I’ve had to, again fix a botch and space the links in a few places. It’s really hard to see, but next time I’ll cut the P/E in bags to prevent the massive loss of parts. Doh.

The front brake disc inserts will be painted. The chain is only going to get a wash.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/53406/mode/L/img.jpg

And another shot of the body panels. Shows the red a little better this time.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/53405/mode/L/img.jpg

That’s all.

This is a proper "In Progress" thread, i.e. lots of Progress!

Looks excellent, looking forward to the end result.

Very cool progress!

I built this bike myself to be the subject of a modeling article, but the least I can do is show you a few teaser pics, maybe they can inspire you? :wink:

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Sennake_models/ducati_desmosedici/desmo_02.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Sennake_models/ducati_desmosedici/desmo_01.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Sennake_models/ducati_desmosedici/desmo_03.jpg

Sennake,

Your ducati is simply breath taking. Looking at yours has made me realise just how crap my P/E chain now actually is. Oh well, live and learn and I’ll get it better next time I build a P/E chain. Just wish I’d known the cutting P/E in a bag trick before I’d lost so many links, meaning I was left short, as if you look closely you can just make out that in some areas I’ve spaced my links a little too far apart.

What did you use for the clear piping? I’m currently looking for something myself to do just what you’ve done. MFH..?

And your radiator mesh looks great, I never get a P/E part for mine, as my P/E set didn’t have it included, sadly.

Small update tonight.

I’ve got the front forks all painted and built. Well, the only thing I painted was the silver part, painted with white metal Alclad II. The fork upgrade set from Tamiya is expensive, but it looks nice.

I’ve also detailed a few mechanical parts. Painted clear red over the radiator hoses. Need to cut some small strips of BMF to make hose clamps.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/53422/mode/L/img.jpg

I’ve also airbrush the wheels X1 Gloss black, and painted the air valve silver, with a flat black cap. And the front P/E discs have been coated with Tamiya metal primer, allowed to dry and then painted twice with my airbrush a mix of X18 /X11 ratio 9:1. The bolts were picked out with silver.

It looks a little gunmetal in the picture, but its actually a lot darker, as I was loathed to paint those P/E parts as they looked so nice in bare metal but I had to, and so tired hard to maintain a metal ish look. That’s all, and if I’m not getting this right, bare in mind it is my first bike, so it might not be technically accurate. LOL

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/53423/mode/L/img.jpg

Hey guy, loving the bike. Got min edone a month or so again. Just 1 thing I want to point out is that the hoses are red, not a red over silver. They are red silicone hoses (spelling?), not anodized hose fitting, but Im sure you know what I mean.

Thanx
Doug

What did you use for the clear piping?

That's just some plain fishing wire, I have them in a few different thickness...

And your radiator mesh looks great, I never get a P/E part for mine, as my P/E set didn’t have it included, sadly.

I think it's the only way to avoid the sinkmarks of the original radiator, because I don't see how I could fill them up and reconstruct the shape of the radiator mesh otherwise...

Very cool progress!

I built this bike myself to be the subject of a modeling article, but the least I can do is show you a few teaser pics, maybe they can inspire you? :wink:

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Sennake_models/ducati_desmosedici/desmo_02.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Sennake_models/ducati_desmosedici/desmo_01.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a79/Sennake_models/ducati_desmosedici/desmo_03.jpg


Holy crud, makes my desmo look like a pile of poop!!!:shakehead

Hi Mick;
You will find some hoseclamps on your CM photo etch set between the exhaust mounting brackets #18 and part #19. The chain is a Bi.ch first time isn't it.
Cheers
Tony


Small update tonight.
I’ve also detailed a few mechanical parts. Painted clear red over the radiator hoses. Need to cut some small strips of BMF to make hose clamps.

Nobby,

Of cause, I wondered what those where… Doh. How obvious that was. I don’t know. Sometimes, you can see the forest for trees. And yep, that chain was a right PTIA. But I’ve learnt, and I’ll do better next time. Thanks for the VERY useful pointers.

More updates tonight. I’ve painted the calipers and some part to the engine Alclad II burnt metal, and for the calipers I flowed some watered down red paint in the brembo letters. Just washed the excess off once it was dried, just basically test fitted to the front forks.

I’ve built the suspension, painted it with Alclad white metal, and detailed with the Tamiya upgrade set. I’ve also built the front brakes now, detailed and lightly washed, and I’ve washed the chain. I then dry brushed X11 over the whole thing. Hasn’t come out too bad actually. Could have been better, but could have been worse.

I’ve also sanded the tyres with 300, then 400 and then finally with 600 grit paper to remove the very obvious mould line. And then installed to the wheel rim and that’s it for today. I hope to start the body panel decals soon, as I’ve just got to paint the insides black..

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/53479/mode/L/img.jpg

Oh, and look at this for a scrap pile. This is all the kit I won’t be needing due to upgrades, and P/E. Thanks for the comments, more to come yet.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/53480/mode/L/img.jpg

By the way the colour of the rad hoses will not be a clear red anodized finish. It will be an almost oily finish orange red. The hoses are made of silicone and look alot like these. You can also see hose kits for bikes and cars on this site...http://www.hosetechniques.com/images/before_after/tbolt_collage_large.jpg

hope it helps a bit
http://www.hosetechniques.com/images/before_after/tbolt_collage_large.jpg

Ah, thanks. I'll paint them flat red with a little orange mixed in. I wasn't too sure, so was following F1 hose colours, but easy to fix. It's only my first bike, so I'm still learning.. :lol: Thanks for the tip, very helpful.

I'm blown away by this build!! Glad I could help...

I'm blown away by this build!! Glad I could help...
Ditto to the above from me.
I am at about the same place as you with this build but am hanging off from posting a progress thread as I know I am going to have a work induced holdup shortly ,so I am just storing up the pics for now and you are doing a fantastic progress description in your thread anyway so I wont have to try later.
I wondered about a couple of PE parts and sent off a PM and apparently, parts #27 and #29 are spare nuts and bolts for the chassis and engine as I have been told by Laurel (Crazy Modeller).
I assembled the chain by cutting the links off the PE tree but leaving them attached to each other like a string of beads. I carefully closed the gap up between the links by bending the little tag between the links in half and then laid the chain in place and glued it on with superglue. It was easier to get an even spacing this way and you cant lose individual links. I screwed up a bit going round the sprockets ( a couple stuck on a little off shape) but it is still better than the plastic one to look at.
Are you putting on the Marlboro decals or just as per kit? I just got the Marlboro decals from Hiroboy.com. awesome service - awesome decals. They go on beautifully!
Cheers
Tony

I’m going to apply the Marlboro decals from CM to mine as well. I got mine from www.hiroboy.com, and the service was very good.

I noticed the spare nuts and bolts, and did figure out they were for the chassis etc.. you actually get enough to apply a few to the cowlings as well, so some clear paint will soon fix them once I get the cowlings completed. The CM P/E set is

The chain looks awesome by eye; my pictures do not do it justice. Its way better then the kit supplied chain, as it has the little holes etc were the links are. I just wish I’d given it some more study before I assembled, as I really did mess my spacing up in a few places. But its OK, and a wash helped it along, plus some dry brushing. I too stucj a few links off angle, but its so small that only the REAL eagle eyed would say – well that’s not totally correct.

Anyhow, I’ve never built a bike before, so little ambitious to build one with so much P/E etc..

I’ll keep an eye out for your build when you post it up. Thanks for the comments..

I’ve masked of the body cowlings, and slowly sprayed X18. Surprised it worked, but worked just fine. Looks pretty good actually.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/54042/mode/L/img.jpg

I’ve also now applied all the decals to the cowlings. (With exception to the rear cowling, as I’ve had to repaint that one, as the putty cracked….!!!). Seem to have been working on this for hours now, dunno if I was being thick or something, but the CM Marlboro decals for the side cowlings were too big.. I worked around it in the end, but I had to fold the decal for this cowlings around the edges. Not sure if I was meant to do something, but it looks OK. I pulled up some reference pictures, and as you can see, what I’ve done is actually correct, so I’m happy with this. The red is not as dull as what the picture I've taken shows. My camera lights are not good enough. The red looks more like the red in the picture of the one above.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/54043/mode/L/img.jpg

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/54041/mode/L/img.jpg

I’m going to clear them, with X22 as the decals seem to have taken on some sort of orange peel. The paint was smooth before I applied them, but now I’ve got slight texture, and I’m going for showroom here, not used etc…

Anyhow, hope you like it, looks much better with the tobacco decals. The CM decals were VERY good. Very strong, and very forgiving.

I’ve started to assemble the rear swing arm, and also starting to assemble the front wheel with its brake discs etc…

I sanded the tyres; decaled the wheels, applied the tire decals, and left till today. I then used some tamiya wax to put the shine back on them after sanding, and started to assemble.

I was literally shaking right after I’d completed the rear swing arm. It was like walking on egg shells. You basically dry fit nearly all of this, and screw it all together… One slip, and it falls apart, problem is the P/E is too fragile for slips. And yep, I slipped. Twice in fact. The large screw to hold the rear wheel in just wouldn’t line up correctly.

I VERY nearly walked away. I just thought, nah, its not going to happen tonight after I broke the rear discs brake off the wheel for the second time. But I decided, right, I’m going for it, and if it isn’t built this time, I’ll try again later.

Finally it went together.… And even though I don’t think it’s going to win awards, it’s built. I really do not think it’s all that challenging. I was just have a dumb moment, and then woke up on the third attempt. I can laugh now, next time I’ll try and be more alert.

I also washed many parts with black ink. I hope you like it.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/54058/mode/L/img.jpg

This is coming along real nice, I always enjoy bikes at there is soon many parts. Haven't built one for a few years now, but I do have a Tamiya Ducati Desmosedici on order now after looking at this thread and the Crazy Modeler parts I have lying around.

Looking good man!

Man you work fast!! Good job!!

I hope you like it.
I do :)
This is a very interesting project - fun to watch it coming together so well.

Loving every minute of this build Mick! I got myself into motorcycles last year, and now I am dying to build a kit like this... Your builds always inspire me to work on something, and this build is no different.

Thanks for sharing!

I’ve now completed the bike stand. Important part, without this, the bike cannot be stood up when I’ve got it completed. How’s that for confidence. I didn’t pay for the Tamiya stand, as it was fairly expensive. It did however had chrome plastic replacements and 2005 decals, but I didn’t want the decals, so bought the Crazy Modeller version. Problem was, no new chrome wheels or jack stand. Not that this was a problem. TS14 base coat, and Alclad highly polished aluminum and it looks just as good. I used heated sprue to make wheel axles and painted them silver. Painted the wheels light blue, and it’s all done. Money saved..!!

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/54090/mode/L/img.jpg

I’ve also built the front wheel, basically CM P/E painted with a mix of black /silver and then Alclad magnesium for the brake discs. Washed with black ink, and detailed with enamel silvers. The wheel bolts that hold it all together, although I did glue it, were sprayed Alclad burnt metal. I’ve also added a shot of the other side of the rear swing arm. You can see the P/E chain, all washed with black ink, and dry brushed with X 11 silver. Looks OK. I’ll do better next time I build a P/E chain, as I learnt from it.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/54091/mode/L/img.jpg

I’ve taken some advice I got, and repainted the hoses with a mix of red, orange and a small bit of black. The CM set did supply hose clamps. Try using them though. Impossible to cut off, I gave up. I went back to the idea of using BMF to make my own hose clamps.

I’ve also built the engine, I’ve sprayed the entire black with Alclad white metal, with the sump sprayed Alclad jet exhaust, also with the fly wheel housing. The fly wheel cover was sprayed Alclad burnt metal. I’ve washed with black ink, and dry brushed, heavy in some places X11 silver. Picked out a few bolts, added brake piping and that’s about where I am at the moment.

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/54092/mode/L/img.jpg

http://www.pictureparking.com/pic/54093/mode/L/img.jpg

do you use any sealer on the alclad finishes? I have troubles with it rubbing off...

do you use any sealer on the alclad finishes? I have troubles with it rubbing off...

No. I never use a sealer, and I've never had it rub off. In fact it's very durable. And is very hard wearing. One of the reasons I like it. Strange you should say you have problems with it rubbing off.