vtec-e

what is the difference between the hx and vx vtec-e?
if i were to put vtec-e in my 89dx can i keep the dpfi?

what is the dpfi ?
READ THIS
VTEC-E
A novel implementation of VTEC in SOHC engines is the VTEC-E implementation (E for Economy). VTEC-E uses the principle of swirling to promote more efficient air-and-fuel mixing in the engine chambers. VTEC-E works by deactivating one intake valve. Examine the diagram below.

In the SOHC VTEC-E implementation, only one intake cam-lobe is implemented on the camshaft. Actually it is really a flat "ring". In operation this means the relevant rocker arm will not be activated causing the engine to effectively work in 12-valve mode. This promotes a swirl action during the intake cycle. VTEC is used to activate the inactive valve, making the engine work in 16-valve mode in more demanding and higher rpm conditions. Honda was able to implement air-fuel mixture ratios of more than 20:1 in VTEC-E during the 12-valve operating mode. The SOHC VTEC-E engined EG-series Civic ETi is able to return fuel consumptions of as good as 20km/litre or better!!
SOHC VTEC implemented for power is often mistaken as SOHC VTEC-E which is implemented for economy. It is worthwhile to note that the 1.5l SOHC VTEC-E used in the JDM Honda Civic ETi produces 92ps. This is in fact less than that produced by the standard 1.5l SOHC engine's 100ps which uses dual Keihin side-draft carburettors. SOHC VTEC in the D15B produces 130ps. This is 30% more than the standard SOHC implementation !


the factory ecu is p07 or p84 for the europian edition but if you use p08 or p28 you will have the power of natural vtec.

okay that didn't really answer my question... i understand how vtec works. i guess i'll just ask i assume both vx and hx heads are 16 valve so will both of them bolt up to my d15b2? i am going to use the mpfi out of a b6. so like i asked will both heads bolt up to my 89' dx d15b2?

what i know is all d series parts bolt up . without any problem but wait to hear this from other experience person in this site

what am i going to need to do a obd1 conversion with the vx vtec-e head, i also will use the vx intake manifold.

iam not sure about the conversion but you have to install the vtec harness.

is it hard to put a v-tec in a non v-tec engine?

Like a v-tec in a d15(DX)?

no thing is hard . you have to understand how it work
1-ecu must be suitable for the clynder head
2- the harness must be suitable with the ecu
3- obd harness must be sutable with the ecu obd.

your question : is it hard to put a v-tec in a non v-tec engine?

answer : change harrness or add vtec harnness change ecu. buy all vtec componant.

Your compression is going to be pretty high with the VX head, so there goes any gas savings down the drain. And I doubt you'd be able to stay DPFI. Not to mention the head ache wiring would be (there are quite a few differences between the VX and the other 5th gen engine wiring). Trust me when I say it is not worth the time or the $ to do it.

01_Celica_GT - The way you turn a non-vtec engine into a vtec engine is by swapping the head. For your car you just need the head, ecu, and to run 3 wires to the ecu for vtec. There are a lot of write-ups about this, they're commonly refered to as a "mini-me" swap.

Your compression is going to be pretty high with the VX head, so there goes any gas savings down the drain. And I doubt you'd be able to stay DPFI. Not to mention the head ache wiring would be (there are quite a few differences between the VX and the other 5th gen engine wiring). Trust me when I say it is not worth the time or the $ to do it.

01_Celica_GT - The way you turn a non-vtec engine into a vtec engine is by swapping the head. For your car you just need the head, ecu, and to run 3 wires to the ecu for vtec. There are a lot of write-ups about this, they're commonly refered to as a "mini-me" swap.
It's about time someone posted something worth a damn in this thread.

what kind of head do i need? If i change the head, I would need to take apart the whole engine, and how much would the head cost? What ecu do I need?

What head would I need to swap for the one I have right now?

But see I don't want the vtec-e. I want the vtec that is in an EX or maybe even the I-VTEC in the new RSX type-s. Would I need the head and the ECU for the I-vtec?

you can put the head for d15b vtec jdm or the head for the d16z6. in that cas you will use p08 or p28. of course the d16z6 engine with p28 ecu is better. both of them are vtec not vtec-e
i dont know much about the intelegant vtec (i-vtec) but i think it will not work because the i-vtec did not come in d series or b series , any expert person can answer you

read this to know some about vtec.
http://asia.vtec.net/spfeature/vtecimpl/vtec1.html

It's about time someone posted something worth a damn in this thread.
Think we're letting the noobs take over the forums lately, and it's getting time to take it back :grinyes: Though it doesn't help that the forums have been down lately.

01_Celica_GT - You'll need a D-series vtec head (jdm d15b, d16z6, d16y8, D16y6, etc), as well as the correct ECU for that head (like hany said). And you can only go D with D, B with B, and K with K; so the RSX head won't work. You could get a head for a few hundred $ on online classified forums or junkyards, and I've seen the P28 ECU (your best bet) anywhere from $180-$300+. Here's a few write-ups on how to do the swap, and list of parts needed:
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=11116

There are lots of threads on this. I looked at doing it for awhile and decided just to stick with stock D15B7 untill I could afford to swap out to another whole engine. Use the search function and look for Ls/Vtec or Mini Me. There's lots of stuff there. Here's a link to a thread explaining the y7 to y8 head conversion (http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=735196). The procedure is pretty much the same and this will answer most of the basic questions. If you get a questions that you can't answer by searching the forums or find in that thread then post it and we'll help.

EDIT Thanks 97CivicX for finding that in a previous thread.

Dudes, this sounds like you have to be a prosessional to replace the head... In those write-ups, there were a lot of things that I had no clue what they were talking about.

1. What is a dizzy?
EX: "unbolt the distributor from the head, and lay it aside, it's unnecessary to remove the dizzy from the engine bay"

2. How do you drop the oil pan?

3. I don't know how to disconnect all the sensors. I don't know where the throttle cable is. And I dont know how many coolant hoses there are.

It's not that I dont know, I just dont wanna leave anything screwed up and unconnected afterwards.

4. TDC?

5. and how do you know which one is cylinder 1?
EX: "FIRST MAKE SURE THE #1 CYLINDER IS AT TDC by rotating the crank usign the crank pulley bolt and that the cam is adjusted to straight up position."

6. Crank usign? Crank pulley bolt?

I know i'm a newbie to this stuff, but isn't this the reaosn we have the "automotive forums?" to help civic illiterate people like me? :)



What would you guys recommend the best head and the best ECU to buy for my d15y7 I think?

If I have the USDM version of that D series engine would a JDM head still fit on the engine?

You definently need to know what you're doing to pull something like that off. If you're not comfortable with doing it, then you'll have to pay for someone else to. No offense, but from the questions you're asking in this thread, it'd be a good idea to pay someone else to do it for you.
1) A Dizzy is a slang term for a distributor
2) There are nuts and a few bolts (maybe studs?) all around the bottom of the oil pan. You need to take them all off and pry the oil pan off.
3) Most sensors are just clips. Push the tab in and pull both sides of the connector. The throttle cable is exactly how it sounds; a metal cable that goes from your gas pedal, through the firewall, over the intake manifold, and hooks to the throttle body.
4) TDC = Top Dead Center. Everything needs to be properly aligned so you can correctly time the block with the head.
5) I usually take a stretched out coat hanger, remove the spark plug from the #1 cylinder, and put in the hanger. As you turn the crank pully you'll be able to see the hanger go as far up as it can, this is TDC. But the #1 and #4 pistons will both go up at the same time.
6) "...rotate the crank, using the crank pulley bolt..." It's a bolt that goes through the crank pulley (either a 17 or 19mm bolt, I forget), this is what you use to turn the crank. Put the 17 or 19mm socket on the crank pulley bolt and turn it until you get to TDC.

Your best bet for a head would be the D16Z6 head (from the '92-'95 Si and EX models), as well as that ECU (P28). As long as it's a D-series head, it will work, whether it's USDM, JDM, or EDM. Before you try anything, if you decide to do it yourself, you NEED a service manual. If you don't want to buy one, there are tons of them online to download in .pdf form. It will show you all the coolant lines, connectors/sensors, vacume lines, how to unbolt parts (like the head, etc).

Wow, alright, thanks a lot.

Your right, im not comfortable with the Civic. So I probably shouldn't attempt it, but sooner or later i'll read enough to where i kinda know what i'm doing untill I see pictures.

EDIT: Sorry, I didn't see the new page. Grab a Hayne's or Chilton's manual and read up before you try it. I'm not downing you for not knowing by the way. Everyone got there start somewhere. I learned almost everything I know about Mitsubishi Eclipse engines from AF.

No, I agree, I don't know nothing, and this is a pretty big deal for me to be trying by myself and risk messing something up.

I'll get a manual and i'll print off the "mini me" thing off of that other honda site so I know what to do for the ECU

I'm still confused about some things. Can I put a 96 - 00 head on my d15y7? or maybe even a later model?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-D15B-D16Z6-SOHC-VTEC-cylinder-head-mini-me_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33617QQitemZ80618177 79QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

and another thing. Look at this site. This dude says that the d15b7 JDM is the same as the d16z6?

You should recheck your engine code. The engine in your '93 EX should be the D16Z6, unless someone swapped it out for some reason. As far as I know there is no such thing as a D15Y7, though there are dozens of different engines from other countries. Yes, you can swap a '96-'00 head onto your block. But is there something wrong with your head? If you have the Z6, you'll only gain a few hp by swaping on a D16Y8 head ('96+ EX); not worth it. And as far as I know there is no such thing as a JDM D15B7. They probably just mislabled it, and it's probably the jdm D15B (no # after the B).

I don't have the D16z6. Someone swapped the engine before I got the car and so therefore I was wondering if and how I could get a VTEC into the engine I had considering i'm sure it would be a lot more work to swap the engine and a B18b(GSR) is kinda out of my price range.

So i'm just trying to get as much info as I can to do the D16z6 head swap before I actually try it.

You should check the engine code on your block to make sure it's at least a d15b7 before you continue. There are other engines that aren't worth swapping the head on. And the GS-R engine is the b18c, not b18b (that's the non-vtec ls, rs, and gs engine).

oh i was thinkin that, but then I thought the b18c was the type r. but that is the b18c5 right?

Well, the JDM Type R engine is a b18c but the JDM GS-R (SiR-G) also shares the b18c engine code. But the US models are B18c1 for the GS-R, and B18c5 for the ITR. It can get really confusing sometimes with those 2 engines, jdm versions anyways.

yeah, the engine code on the engine is d15b7. Is it worth it to swap the head? I probably need a new head gasket anyways, so I might as well. Where could I find a new gasket set?

Have you thought about just swapping the engine?

I know your a bit newer but it could be a good platform to learn on.

If i were you i'd just swap the d15 out for a d16z6 or the d16y8

I actually have a d16z6 and it's nice for building up a little, and kinda quick stock (dont go racing mustangs or nothin stock, that gets us honda guys flamed lol)

I just think things would go more smoothly and you'd have less problems with a direct swap then a configuration of a few different engines, though the ls/vtec is great, it can be done wrong fairly easily if you dont know what your doing exactly, which is why i wouldnt reccommend that kind of procedure to a beginner.

If your up to it and can swap the head asap though! It's your car!

The problem is that I don't have a thing that can lift the engine out of the engine bay. I kinda got a clue to what I am doing as to motor mounts and stuff but I was thinkin I could do something smaller so therefore I could lift it out.

You could rent an engine lift from most auto parts stores not to mention that you and another person should be able to lift the engine out own your own.

are you serious? They are that light?

It's not exactly "light", to move a 4-cyl engine without tranny requires 2 adults, thats just to move if for a short distance without a cigarette. Now an engine with all the fluids filled up (collant $ oil) is even heavier. You need a tool called engine hoist (aka cherry picker), you put chains around your engine, hook them up the the hoist and pull it out. It is not as easy as it seem though, so don't think it is just unpluging some connectors and lifting the engine out, even though in theory thats what it is.
Judging from the kind of questions you ask, I would feel uncomftorable working on my engine with the knowlege you have.
Good luck though.

From Experience I can tell you that if you and another adult attempt to move it yourself then you could pull it out.

Wow, thats crazy. So what do I need to disconnect to get the motor to move freely? motor mounts, hoses, wire harnesses,?

With your level of knowledge, I would advise against trying to do something major like pulling the engine. You need to have a good understanding of everything about the engine of the car before you go pulling stuff out.

"You need to walk before you can run"

I'll agree with that statement 100% but if Celica wants to attempt a replacement then it's his perogitive. On top of what you said you will want to remove your intake and exaust manifolds (less weight), fuel lines, alternator (optional), AC compressor, and power steering pump. I feel like I'm forgetting something so someone please catch it or I'll post it when I remember. Also optionally you could remove the head and drain the oil to make it lighter to remove but removing the head would be more trouble than it's worth if you're only moving the engine a short distance.

Alright, well considering you said "i need to walk before I can run" what else do I need to know other then hands on experience...? It shouldn't be that hard should it?

You should get a service manual. There's an entire engine removal section (and installation section as well).

What manual do you recommend? I had one of those chilton and whatever and they were gay because all of their pictures were black and white and you couldn't really see anything.

Dudes, this sounds like you have to be a prosessional to replace the head... In those write-ups, there were a lot of things that I had no clue what they were talking about.

1. What is a dizzy?
EX: "unbolt the distributor from the head, and lay it aside, it's unnecessary to remove the dizzy from the engine bay"

2. How do you drop the oil pan?

3. I don't know how to disconnect all the sensors. I don't know where the throttle cable is. And I dont know how many coolant hoses there are.

It's not that I dont know, I just dont wanna leave anything screwed up and unconnected afterwards.

4. TDC?

5. and how do you know which one is cylinder 1?
EX: "FIRST MAKE SURE THE #1 CYLINDER IS AT TDC by rotating the crank usign the crank pulley bolt and that the cam is adjusted to straight up position."

6. Crank usign? Crank pulley bolt?

I know i'm a newbie to this stuff, but isn't this the reaosn we have the "automotive forums?" to help civic illiterate people like me? :)



What would you guys recommend the best head and the best ECU to buy for my d15y7 I think?

If I have the USDM version of that D series engine would a JDM head still fit on the engine?

I'll do my best

1) Dizzy = Distributer

2) You drop the oil pan by going under the car, unbolting it and removing it and leaving it under the engine bay under the car. Of course you'd want to put that back on when you're done lol, you don't want oil just pouring out of your car all the time

3) Almost everyone recommends you buy the Helm's manual for your car. You CAN NOT DIY work for your car without it. It tells you where all the sensors are and where the hoses are and how many you have. It's like the Bible for a car owner.

4) TDC = Top Dead Center

5) I'm pretty sure the cylinder closest to the distributer/ignition is Cylinder #1 since it's probably the first to ignite.

6) Basic mechanics know that the crank pulley bolt is connected to the crank, (the heart of your engine basically, it's what turns under the pistons), the cam is a long shaft with lobes that controls the opening/closing of your intake/exhaust ports in your cylinder head. Basically it controls the flow of air in and out of your pistons.

If you want the helms manual for your year e-mail me and I'll send you the PDF I have.

Alright sounds good. Does this manual have a "how-to" on changing your shocks/springs?