rearend question???

I know a lot of guys who broke the stock 10 bolt with just a full exhaust and other minor bolt ons. A few broke them at around 350rwhp. My question is, after the headers, and new TB comes, ill have around 350 to the wheels. My set up will be... loudmouth, QTP, lid, LS6 intake, 80mm TB, and maybe some work on HP tuners. Should i be looking for a new rearend??? The car has 80K miles and im afraid somethings gonna happen at the track sooner or later.

You running DR's or slicks?
If not...you are fine.

since we have thread.. l would like to ask a question.. what does bolt mean?

l hear a lot of times, people are telling they got 12 bolts on, etc.. but l dont know what is that mean.. also DRs are bad for car? breaks stuffs cuz they are so sticky???

thanks..

Erdal

9 bolt, 10 bolt, 12 bolt, etc...is how many bolts hold the ring gear.

9"
12 bolt
GM's weak ass 10 bolt.

Those are the popular ones for the F-Body. To be honest...I haven't researched them much. Been trying to avoid it all together. :lol:

haha...9" is what I meant...dont think ive even heard of a 9 bolt. You know, you may have to start investigating that rear end upgrade soon...especially if you so much as run premium in the beast...not to mention slicks :-p

since we have thread.. l would like to ask a question.. what does bolt mean?

l hear a lot of times, people are telling they got 12 bolts on, etc.. but l dont know what is that mean.. also DRs are bad for car? breaks stuffs cuz they are so sticky???

thanks..

Erdal
drag radials coudl be bad for your car if you drove around on them all the time since you get a good grip and you tend to want to have a hard launch. But that is way they are called DRAG radials, they are ment for you to put on, drive it to the track with them, spin tires at the track, get some good runs, drive on them home, and take them off and put your regular tires back on.

My street tires are drag radials.

ya but the t/a is not your daily driver, i bet if it was your daily driver the rear end would be in the middle of the highway about one week after you got it running right.

Doubtful.

I have put almost 1000 miles on it since it has been running. Car gets mostly street time. Street tires just don't grab well enough to use. So I run the longest lasting DR's. Nittos.

Doubtful.

I have put almost 1000 miles on it since it has been running. Car gets mostly street time. Street tires just don't grab well enough to use. So I run the longest lasting DR's. Nittos.
well that is good to know because that is the DR i am getting for my car for when i go to the track.

They are the worst performing DR when it comes to the track though.

oh crap, then i guess i will go with the mickey's

ya but the t/a is not your daily driver, i bet if it was your daily driver the rear end would be in the middle of the highway about one week after you got it running right.

Huh, there's a dude on LS1.com whose car is pumping over 550whp, and he is on a 10 bolt. The 10 bolt is fine if you eliminate axle hop, don't run slicks, and can learn to slip the clutch. I had a 10 bolt in my former 2KZ28, and it was running on DR's and using a 100 shot of nitrous.

The 10 bolt is weak if you really want a drag car, but for the occassional running at the track, it'll do fine.

Besides the 12 bolt is around $1400, plus installation. That ain't cheap.

Where did you find it that cheap?

My street tires are drag radials.

Really, you have that much problem with traction?

I put Fuzzion's on my stock T/A and I'm impressed with how they hook. Maybe I just don't have enough HP for the tires to be that big of an issue. I'm sure your DR's are stickier, but for the street I don't think i'd want anything stickier then I have now (have a stone driveway & the first 1/2 mile is nothing but stones hitting the underside of my car).

500 RWHP does that. :wink:

Hell...I was blowing off my 275 Nitto DR's in 1st and 2nd gear. Upped them to 315's and it is just at the limit. Might have problems hooking in the upper RPM's even with these 315's once tuned.

Where did you find it that cheap?

You'll have to ask Danno. He told me it was $1,200. I was adding taxes.

I'm not in the market for it, cause I don't have to worry about it :D

YOU CAN'T SAY THE SAME!!!! MUAHAHAHAHAHAHA

That has to be a used one.

New the Moser 12 bolt is right around $2K.
And yes...sadly in order to really see what this car has in it...I need that rearend.

I know a lot of guys who broke the stock 10 bolt with just a full exhaust and other minor bolt ons. A few broke them at around 350rwhp. My question is, after the headers, and new TB comes, ill have around 350 to the wheels. My set up will be... loudmouth, QTP, lid, LS6 intake, 80mm TB, and maybe some work on HP tuners. Should i be looking for a new rearend??? The car has 80K miles and im afraid somethings gonna happen at the track sooner or later.

If you have a 6 speed, don't drop the clutch. Bring your rpmps up between 3-4k depending on traction..just let the clutch out and roll into the throttle hard. You do this, you'll be alright. Dropping the clutch with sticky tires and a sticky surface is what makes the guys break the 10 bolt. I had over 400rwhp/rwtq with a P1SC on my car for a long time with the 10 bolt. Just FYI.

That is the reason I KNOW mine is gonna be dead soon.

Clutch is a SPEC stage 5.

That is the reason I KNOW mine is gonna be dead soon.

Clutch is a SPEC stage 5.

No slippage = 10 bolt ownage.

Muahahahahaha :D