Instead of big 3 can you...

Could you possibly get a hyper grounding and hyper voltage systems for your car and it do the same thing as the big 3? In case you aren't sure what those are they are basically a plate with wires on it running to various locations in the engine bay area to get a better ground and better hot connection.

Sure, but those cost what, $100? The big 3 costs maybe 10, if that

Big 3: 10ft 1/0 wire, 300a inline fuse, fuse holder, 4 1/0 lugs

that is what you need and if budgeted correctly $40-$50 tops. thoes kits you are talking about are for looks, dont work as well, and cost like $150 usually.

No need for a 300 amp fuse unless he has a 300 amp alternator, same with 1/0 for everything

4awg all around is fine, and an 80 amp fuse is fine, no need to spend any more than $20 on this

Well, the reason why I ask is my ground wire is already about a 1 or 0 gauge wire...so I wouldn't have to change that...and I am thinking my alt wire is a 4 gauge right now...so am I pretty safe with that right now?

Sounds fine...What kind of power are you drawing?

No need for a 300 amp fuse unless he has a 300 amp alternator, same with 1/0 for everything

4awg all around is fine, and an 80 amp fuse is fine, no need to spend any more than $20 on this

you fuse for the wire's capasity so that in the case you ever upgrade your alternator, you dont have to upgrade you wire/fuse too. 200a fuses arent cheap...well they are but better to get one in the first place than not. Also, the bigger the better, 1/0 FTW.

my stock wiring is already 4ga.

Well, the reason why I ask is my ground wire is already about a 1 or 0 gauge wire...so I wouldn't have to change that...and I am thinking my alt wire is a 4 gauge right now...so am I pretty safe with that right now?


Are you sure?
My stock alt to batt is around 6awg, so 4awg is believable, but I have a hard time believing your batt ground is 0awg.

^^x2, mine was a single 4ga to the BODY not the chassis (truck), so i have a 1/0 running to both now along with the stock. Lights only dim when i go near full tilt and then its only enough to barely catch. Weird thing is between both of my amps i should be drawing over 130a and my alt is 95a... weird.

I'll check to make sure the wire gauge in the morning. But the ground is about 3/4'' or bigger (diameter). But I'll check in the morning. How hard is it to do the big 3? For the drawing power...I am looking at a power acoustik ts1440-2 or the ts1920-2. Since they cost about the same as my pioneer amp did...I'm hoping I will be able to find my receipt for the pioneer amp and be able to take it back to walmart and get a better amp.

Big 3 is easy, with all of the supplies ready to go it can be dont in less than an hour with a simple ratched set, a soldering iron, and some solder.

most big 3 threads are just "connect wire here, here, and here" buut since im bored here goes.

Materials:
-10-15ft of Wire, 2ga or bigger is reccomended, 1/0 or bigger is your best choice. Cheap wire that has an insulation capebale of handline high heat and is gas and oil resistant. High thread count means its easier to work with.
-Wire Lugs for your sized wire. You have to determine what you will need. tinned or gold plated copper or Brass are reccomended, but aluminum plated copper works just as well and are cheap at Home Depot. Crimp lugs can also be used and are even cheaper.
-Solder
-Large AUG inline fuse holder with fuse to match your wire's capasity (look it up on google) or High Amp circut breaking using the same rule of thumb
-Zip Ties
-Self tapping sheet metal screws
-Sand Paper

Tools:
-Cable Cutters or large diagonal cutting plyers
-Large Crimper or plyers if using crimp wire lugs
-Solderin Iron
-Tool to attach wire to Fuse Holder or Circut Breaker. Generally an allan wrench or philips head screwdriver. Sometimes a nut and washer.
-Small Wrench and Socket/Wrench set

*You may need or choose to get new battery terminals, you will have to deside wether or not that is needed or if you want to. I reccomend it. Brass battery terminals are best, try to stay away from painted lead battery terminals. They are highly resistant and ugly.

Instructions:
1.) Discconect your battery. Ground (-) first then positive (+).
2.) Take your wire and find the best running route for it. Stay away from intake and ecxaust manifolds, moving parts, and the radiator.
3.) Cut your Wire to lenght with a little extra. A few inches should be enough. But remember to check your route 3-4 times so you dont cut a pice too short. Also, on conenctions made to the engines, especially on RWD vehicles or other vehiles that dont have a transverse engine, make sure to leave slack in the wire. WHen engines torque they rock in the motor mounts, though stopping this will put more power to the ground you dont want to have your alternator (+) grounded out because the wire snapped do you?
4.) Put your lugs on where they will needed. I can guarontee that your alternator to ground will need lugs on both ends and your battery to ground will need at least one. Your Alt (+) to battery will probably need one on the alternator side. I dont know your car or your fuse holder/circut breaker so i cant tell you the rest.
5.) It is a good idea to tin your wire and solder your lugs, espcially if you use crimp lugs. This will stop corrosion and give a better connection. The less resistance the better. 0.1ohm is a BIG difference here.
6.) Run your wires, If you have a Unibody vehicle ground to a good place like the firewall or the chassis part of the body. Dont ground to fenderwells or bumpers. Vehicles with a seperate chassis it is a good idea to ground to the chassis or both the body and chassis. If you have left over wire at this point you can even run a ground near the alternator to battery (-)
7.)Zip tie all of your wires in place except your alt (+) to battery
8.) In a place away from heat (and magnatism if you are using a circut breaker) that is close to the battery cut and insert your fuse or circut breaker. Fuse close the battery becauseit's explosive, your alternator isnt. That is the simplest way to tell why.
9.) Now zip tie your Alt (+) wire and reconnect your battery to the terminals. Hope you left enough slack in your wire for them to reach your battery. You now have a more efficent electrical charging system. Enjoy less headlight dim, less voltage spikes and dips and if you used pretty wire a better looking engine bay.

*You run your big 3 in parallel with the OEM wiring. Dont disconnec the OEM wiring.

Could someone possilby put up a picture of what it should look like? And for the new posts where would you recommend getting them. Around here there's walmart autozone napa and pep boys. So where would my best bet be. Also I went to buy a post from Scochse (spelling and it's a walmart brand) it wouldn't accept my body ground wire. That's how I know it's bigger than a 4 gauge wire O.o. Anyways, I'm changing my amp to a power acoustik TS1920-2 so...I'll start a new thread later about that.

Autozone should carry 100a + fusable links. They should also carry breakers in high amp ratings.

Autozone should also carry 2ga wire, probably not 1/0. Go to Weldingsupply.com for wire or if you are willing to work with low thread count home depot.

lugs and all should be at autozone/homedepot :)

doing the big 3 will probably just make the lights dim even more, since the electrical system can now provide power at even higher (and quicker) levels.

Any mis-step in your wiring can cause cables to heat up considerably, ie. a ground connection that's become loosened due to vibrations.
When using solder with it's unique properties such as it's low melting point, it can be a short ckt and possible charlie fire waiting to happen.