Project K1500

Well, after a lot of thinking I have decided I want to keep my truck for now but fix it up. There’s a lot of stuff that needs to be done and I've decided to do this on here for help. First off the basic information of the truck is it’s a 1993 K1500 ext cab. The engine is A V8 350 5.7 L TBI. It was built in Canada. Well here are the pictures and a list of mostly what needs to get done.

• All four shocks
• Brakes need repair (Most likely just new pads)
• Rear Differential Fluid Check
• New air filter assembly
• Bed rails need covered
• Both rocker panels fixed
• Water Pressure sensor replaced
• Engine knock fixed
• Off road lights wired
• Exhaust System
• New tow hooks
• Front bumper fixed and alignment
• Driver side rear dent fixed and other dents removed
• Bed liner
• New alternator wired

As I go along and fix stuff I will update this list and hope you guys will be able to help me with some of the questions I have.

- Kevin

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/288179Project_K1500_Bumper.jpg
Looks like I need a new bumper
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/288179Project_K1500_Driver_Side_Rear.jpg
This is the biggest dent
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/288179Project_K1500_Driver_Side_Rocker.jpg
Needs repair
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Engine_Compartment.jpg
New air filter assembly need to fix the engine
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Front_View.jpg
The bumpers out of line and the tow hooks bent need to wire the fog lights
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Interior.jpg
The only nice thing about the truck still needs some stuff done.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Muffler.jpg
I need to replace everything from the cat back plan on putting a flowmaster 40 with a single out.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Passenger_Side_Rocker.jpg
Needs repair
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Passenger_Side_View.jpg
Not so bad
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Driver_Side_View.jpg
Also not bad

My first question involves wiring the fog lights; the wiring is pretty complicated well at least KC makes it that way. As far as the power source goes should I just go straight from the battery? Also if I’m going to be putting a wire on the battery should I get some kind of O ring that will go on the terminal screw or just wrap the wire behind the nut? Anything else I need to do besides that and put an inline fuse on the whole set up.

- Kevin

Whenever I add anything to a vehicle that I want to be on only when the key is, I wire it straight to the battery for the main powersource then add a relay and have the power switch comming from the ignition switch. This way you have almost 0 amp pull on your ignition component wiring. All the draw is off the battery. As for whether you should put a terminal on it, I always use a large ring terminal on the end of the wire. Nothing special just a crimp on terminal.......if your good at soldering you can solder the terminal to the wire to make it more permenent; however it is not necessary.

This may help you out a little.
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y276/akbrough/Matt/wiringdiagram.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Light_Question.jpg

Ok here is the wiring diagram, matt I don’t know what you mean with the whole ignition switch thing what does this do, Is it so the switch wont drain the battery or? Also where should I put inline fuses on the wire coming from the lights to the switch the power line and the ground all of them or what? And I’m not very good as far as electrical but I’m not quite sure what a relay is I was talking to my dad about it and he says its something that controls how much power is going threw or something.

- Kevin

Well I’m here at school right now my truck up on the racks in the automotive bay. We changed the fluid out on my front differential and changed both outer tie rods. The tie rods were pretty rusted on there and took some effort to get them out. We put a new Goodyear gatorback belt on there and we weren’t able to do the oil change because we used the only pan we have for the differential fluid. Hopefully I can get in there and do the oil change and grease all the main points underneath. Some other good news is my dad’s friend at work is giving me a 140 AMP alternator which will work great with my hilites that are going on.

- Kevin

Done
• Front Differential Fluid Drained and Filled
• Tire rotation
• Outer tie rods
• Drive belt

Well I’m here at school right now my truck up on the racks in the automotive bay. We changed the fluid out on my front differential and changed both outer tie rods. The tie rods were pretty rusted on there and took some effort to get them out. We put a new Goodyear gatorback belt on there and we weren’t able to do the oil change because we used the only pan we have for the differential fluid. Hopefully I can get in there and do the oil change and grease all the main points underneath. Some other good news is my dad’s friend at work is giving me a 140 AMP alternator which will work great with my hilites that are going on.

- Kevin

Done
• Front Differential Fluid Drained and Filled
• Tire rotation
• Outer tie rods
• Drive belt


First off the 140a alternator may not work if the housing is larger than what came factory, you may need to replace the mounting bracket to get it to fit, and the belt you just put on may not work either.

• All four shocks--I would recomend the KYB Mono-Max, Excelent shocks.
• Brakes need repair (Most likely just new pads)--Use a quality pad and turn the rotors if they are still in spec.
• New air filter assembly--AEM Brute Force
• New bumper--depends on how much money you want to spend.
• Bed rails need covered--Bed caps or spray in liner.
• Both rocker panels fixed--Sorry not a body man.
• Water Pressure sensor replaced--Not sure what you mean by this.
• Engine knock fixed--Could be the knock sensor is bad, if not then check your timing, if that is ok you may be doing some engine work.
• Off road lights wired--You can buy a wiring kit that has everything that you need, makes the job very easy.
• Exhaust System--Don't buy cheep components.
• Bumper
• New tow hook
• Front bumper alignment
• Driver side rear dent fixed and other dents removed
• Oil change and grease

if you're painting it yourself, prepare yourself for an ass-load of sanding lol... im in that process right now on my 73 chevy truck and its a pain in the ass to have to wetsand guidecoats all day long

Well things kind of went south, on my way home from school with the new outer tie rods on I’ve noticed how horribly out of line it is. It appears the “tow” is way off so ill have to bring it in for auto tomorrow and get that straightened out. As far as the 140 amp alternator yes I know this is a concern we think it will mount up in the original brackets and my tensioner a little off so it should fit. There is some kind of connecter change we need to make tough. As far as some of the stuff listed horse is a little out of my price range. The KYB Mono-Max is a pretty expensive shock from what I’ve seen I’m looking at monoroes that go under 30 dollars a piece. As far as the breaks go I don’t know much about breaks so I’m just going to have someone in the brakes and suspension class due it thanks ill mention the rotors being turned. The Brute force also out of my price range. The bumper I plan on getting at a junkyard. The engines main bearings are shot. I have wiring harnesses it’s just complicated for me. And for the exhaust I plan on either putting a flowmaster 40 or 70. And jviek I’m not really sure about that yet. So far thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate this. Anyone on the whole wiring thing diagrams above.

Thanks,

- Kevin

if you are doing your project in a high school or tech college shop class type of setting, like it seems to be described above, i bet you could rebuild that engine pretty cheap. You can get kits at autozone type of stores that are under 500 bucks to rebuild. I dunno about cylinder honing and all that though... sure to drive the costs up a little. In many cases, its easier to buy a brand new engine from GM. They sell brand new 350's, albeit the older 2 piece rear main seal style, for 1350 on jegs.com. or for economy, there are remanufactured 350s you can get thru autozone or orieleys or something and they are as little as 8 or 9 hundred for the crappier ones.

Yeah I’m doing this in high school auto. My shop teacher and I were looking into the prices and I have found rebuild kits anywhere from 500-800 dollars. Right now my concern isn’t really the engine because I’m pretty sure it has plenty of life left in it so it will be fixed later on down the line. Right now its downstairs getting alignment after noticing how bad the toe was on it yesterday on my way to work.

- Kevin

You have it right if you are going to run it without a relay.... Apearently these are not a high amp draw bulbs. Put the fuse between the battery and the switch and wire everything else up you should have no problems.

Matt, I’ve been talking to the guys from KC and they said a relay for every 2 lights and I have 6 lights so 3 relays. Right now I’m waiting for a 140 amp alternator that I’m getting for free before I wire any of the roof HiLites. These are really high amp draw bulbs with all of the aux lighting it will be 42.49 amps. So right now I’m planning on just doing the fog lights and doing the rest later down the line. Well they aligned my truck it still feels off ill have to talk to my shop teacher next week about it. Below are some pictures of my new lights. My next step is changing my oil maybe tonight or in the morning. Along with ordering some new exhaust parts witch brings up my next question should I go with a flowmaster 40 or 70 right now I’m thinking the 70 series.

- Kevin

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Roof_Hilites.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Roof_Hilites_Open.jpg

40's will give you a nice low grumble at idle and it will come alive when you romp on it. If you don't want something that loud I would go with 70's. However, If you do not have inspections You may like it w/o mufflers. My 88 has straights all the way back, no cat, no mufflers. Nice low tone at idle and a nice crackle at about 2500 rpm. Now when talking about exhaust parts, don't buy cheap parts. If you buy cheap, you will buy them again in 2 years. Also, DO NOT get chrome flat tips. They will rust out real fast. Get STAINLESS STEEL. Chrome does not hold up at all.

No inspections here, I was just listening to some audio I like the tone of the 70s but my body still says get a 40. I don’t know wouldn’t it be super loud with no cat and no muffler? My dad was bitching went I mentioned cutting the cat off before saying it will bring up check engine codes for not reading the cat. At this point I’m going to get the pipe from the cat to the muffler at Murray’s about 25 dollars and I already have a tailpipe. I plan on keeping it all stock but the muffler. Having duels would be nice but I don’t want to mess with it. So the real problem is just deciding whether or not to get a 40 or the 70.

- Kevin

Well things kind of went south, on my way home from school with the new outer tie rods on I’ve noticed how horribly out of line it is. It appears the “tow” is way off so ill have to bring it in for auto tomorrow and get that straightened out. As far as the 140 amp alternator yes I know this is a concern we think it will mount up in the original brackets and my tensioner a little off so it should fit. There is some kind of connecter change we need to make tough. As far as some of the stuff listed horse is a little out of my price range. The KYB Mono-Max is a pretty expensive shock from what I’ve seen I’m looking at monoroes that go under 30 dollars a piece. As far as the breaks go I don’t know much about breaks so I’m just going to have someone in the brakes and suspension class due it thanks ill mention the rotors being turned. The Brute force also out of my price range. The bumper I plan on getting at a junkyard. The engines main bearings are shot. I have wiring harnesses it’s just complicated for me. And for the exhaust I plan on either putting a flowmaster 40 or 70. And jviek I’m not really sure about that yet. So far thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate this. Anyone on the whole wiring thing diagrams above.

Thanks,

- Kevin


I will tell you right up front that if you by those cheep Monroe shocks you will hate them. If you get one years use out of them you will be lucky. If you insist on buying a less expensive shock then at least go with the KYB GR2. They will give you a similar ride of the Sensatrack but the warranty is way better, not that you are going to need it on the kyb's. I am running flow master 40 muffler and it give a good sound, but on the freeway there is a bit of resinence.

Horse482, thank you luckily I haven’t gone out and bought these shocks yet. So are they pretty much garbage? Most of my driving is either dirt roads or 55 mph highways (M-59) I was looking over the KYB GR2 are these good for on/off road purposes. Pretty much I’m looking for a shock that’s good on and off road. Has anyone had experience with Monroe Gas Magnums I know they run about 50 dollars a shock are they worth it? Or should I just purchase these KYB GR2s also are these available at common auto part stores such as Murray’s or special order? As far as muffler goes I think I’m going to go with the 40 series. I changed my oil today and put some motor honey in there and it’s running better then ever. Its keeping a steady oil pressure of about 30 at above idle and 5 plus at idle which is better then the typical idle no pressure check gauges condition. I’m still upset over the fact my trucks still not properly aligned I let go of the steering wheel and it veers hard to the right so I’m going to have to figure that out next week. I have figured out the whole wiring thing for the most part. My only question still is where should I get the power for the switch from the fuse block or also the battery?

- Kevin

Well my trucks alignment has been fixed, we put the tires back to where they were and adjusted it a little bit more and its running pretty straight now. I guess my next step now is to re do my exhaust from the cat back. I want to get a flowmaster but I was talking to some of my buddy’s and they said if you do any off roading which I do that they are heavy mufflers and have the chance of breaking off. I am still looking for a good set of shocks.

- Kevin

yeah if the engine is all stock, then dont even bother putting in dual exhaust, they made the exhaust good enough at the factory for your stock 350. if it gets souped up in the future, that may be a necessary add-on. in high performance applications, it can make the difference of over 20+ horsepower

The way it looks right now I am just going to re do from the cat back with a flow master, don’t ever plan on souping it up. My brakes are getting real bad so it’s going to be a bit until I finish everything up. I landed a free new bumper at a drag race I went to over the weekend I just have to wait for the guy to call me so I can go pick it up it just have a dent in it. I got a free 140 amp alternator I just have to wait to get the right connecter and a more heavy duty wire for the battery.

- Kevin

Well just an update, I found a kid at school selling a perfect rear bumper for $50.00 dollars I’ve decided I’m going to buy it rather then get a free dented one that’s awhile away. Its rained here since last Wednesday so my trucks filthy once it dries off I’m going to give it a good wash, along with washing the engine compartment and put the new alternator in. It just things are going depressingly slow. Ill keep you guys posted.

- Kevin

Another update, Got my new bumper. The back has some surface rust on it, do you guys think it’s worth the time to get the rust of and primer and paint it. Right now I’m thinking of putting this jelly on it which gets rid of the rust then priming and painting it. Going to buy a new grille from the same kid I got the bumper from for 30 dollars also. Still trying to figure out what to do with the alternator, what’s best just putting a thicker gauge from the alternator to the battery? What size should I get? Also I found a nice muffler much like a flow master for like 50 bucks, they want 90 dollars to install the muffler tail pipe and cat to muffler along with a extension with hangers and everything for 90 dollars. Is this a good price, or should I just do it myself?

- Kevin

Need some advice, does anyone even think its worth the time to get all the rust off of my back bumper? My dad says no and he used to be in the GM corrosion division. Also I have a 140 alternator that’s going in soon should I upgrade the power cable coming from the alternator or do you think what’s on there is good enough?

Thanks,

- Kevin

Well good news and bad news, Noticed last week that the left rear tires tread was starting to crack, peel, etc so at that point it was decided to get four new tires. Went to the local belle tire here in Howell they had priced me at about $600 dollars aligned. Well left it there and we get a call from Belle Tire saying that they wouldn’t be able to keep an alignment because steering gear box gears were worn out and my pitman arms were shot. And it turns out the idiots that aligned my truck at school put the cambers on upside down. Anyways the alignment was way out ill post the sheet up tomorrow. So everything all done and fixed ran me $1550 even. I think this was a pretty good price and this was them taking some money off. The need rear bumpers on it also looks great ill put some new pics up tomorrow. Only problem is now after I took it to Belle Tire my hi-beams are messed up. Ill pull the lever to get the hi-beams turned on and it will either turn them on or shut the headlights off it depends its going back and forth, any suggestions? I’m cleaning all the paint and waxing the truck tomorrow so ill put the pics then.

- Kevin

Okay here are the new pictures, Talked to Belle Tire just now about my hi-beams so hopefully they fix that free of charge (When I turn the brights on it either shuts my headlights off or turns the brights on it varrys) and they said to bring it in and they will take a look at it. Also had my brakes checked about 60 percent in the rear 50 in the front.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Project_K1500_Latson.jpg
My truck all waxed at at Latson road while doing some training.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/503/288179Engine.jpg
Thats me at Howell Area Fire Department Station 22 (My station i am a cadet fire-fighter)
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/288179Project_K1500_Rear_Bumper.jpg
New rear bumper (50 bucks plus all the bolts)
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/288179Project_K1500_Inside_Station.jpg
My truck inside of the station.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/500/288179Project_K1500_22_Front.jpg
In front of Station

I went to Belle Tire and they said that my headlight issue was strictly a electrical issue and recommended some place in Howell, I also asked them if this would be reimbursed and he said no. So I got in touch with Belle Tire Corporate and its going to a manager today. I have a question I am re doing my exhaust do you guys think I should put a hi flow cat on I can get one for about 100 bucks which I want to get but I’m not sure. Will the exhaust sound bad with it because its not tuned or what I am also putting a nice muffler on to. As far as my issue with my shocks I’m looking at getting these http://www.gorancho.com/products/shocks/RS5000.stm I have heard mixed reviews about them but I like what I have heard. Anyone have any experience with them? Also if I ever put 2500 leaf springs on my truck would I have to get 2500 rear shocks?

- Kevin