Cannot start 1999 Lumina

I have a 1999 Lumina that will not start. When I insert the key and turn it into the START position, the fuel pump primes and the daytime running lights turn off, but the starter motor does not turn at all. I am very sure I have a charged battery. I even tried jumpstarting with no success. I'm thinking the problem may have to do with the theft deterrent starter kill relay. If anyone knows where in the car that relay is located, that info would be greatly appreciated. Please help!

Does the security lite stay on? If so leave the key on for 15 min then turn it off for 10 secs., try and start.

No, security light doesn't stay on. I was thinking it had to do with the theft deterrent relay preventing power from getting to the starter motor. If anyone knows where that is, please tell me so I can short it out!

If it was the theft deterrent, the fuel pump wouldn't prime, as the theft deterrent kills the fuel pump relay. I would check for power getting to the "s" terminal of the starter solenoid. If there is no power to the "s" terminal when the key is turned to start, you've got a bad ignition switch or neutral safety switch. If there is power there, either the starter is bad, or the battery doesn't have enough amperage to turn the starter over.

check and see if your key has a chip in it on my uncles lumina it did the same thing and he couldn't figure it out until he took it to the dealership and they told him he had to get a new key made so when my uncle went home he got the other set of keys he had and it turned right over if not the problem good luck and I'll find where the theft deterrent relay is.

I'm pretty sure the key doesn't have a chip, because the car saw only 13,000 miles of use.

After close inspection, I have come to the conclusion that the previous owner of the car had the dealer install an aftermarket security system (blinking red LED on dashboard next to steering wheel). Where would this system be located in the car?

I'm pretty sure the key doesn't have a chip, because the car saw only 13,000 miles of use.

After close inspection, I have come to the conclusion that the previous owner of the car had the dealer install an aftermarket security system (blinking red LED on dashboard next to steering wheel). Where would this system be located in the car?

No offence, but what does the miles of the car have to do with the Chip?
What he is referring to is that on the ignition key on some of the Lumina's there is a black "chip". Electronic chip. When you insert the key not only do the tumblers have to line up for the key to turn but the "programing" on the chip has to match whats inside the sterrring column.

Anyway, as for the alarm system. Check at your Battery for 1st. Generally there will be an extra wire hooked up at the positive terminal, to use the power for the alarm.

Also you can check the fuse panel. Look for any wires that look like they have been added to the panel. Also possible that the alarm was hooked up directly to the fuse panel to get it's power.

Hope this helps.

Hearts88

Start looking for wires spliced into the harness from the ign switch.

Have someone hold the key over to the start position while you give the starter a whack with a hammer.

Betcha it starts right up, very common with GM starters when they start to go bad. If it starts, drive over to the parts store and buy yourself a starter, you need it.

Whoops, missed the part about the alarm light on the dash.

Most of those when they locked out would reset only after being locked and unlocked with the keyless remote. We had a lot of owners run into this dillema because they'd bought the car used, and never had a remote for it. The first time someone tripped the system by tampering with it while locked up, the system locked out starter operation until reset.

I used to start them with the old "Screwdriver across the starter terminals" trick we always did when Ford starter relays went bad. That will get it started if the security system is locked out. Since you havenoticed the fuel pump runs, there is no fuel cutoff with that system.

Great deterrent, when any fool with a screwdriver can defeat it. (sarcasm)

It may reset once running, I can't remember. If not you'll have to disable the aftermarket security system or try to obtain a remote if you don't have one...

Another thing to try it works on my 1996 I dropped my remote and broke it and then started having the same problem, but mine was only when I locked the doors, and used the key to unlock it, thsn sometime it would not start, I called the Chevy house and was told to roll the drivers window down, remove the keys from the switch, lock the car, stay out of it for 3 minutes, then reach in the window unlock the door and it would start this has worked for me for a couple of months now, I just bought a remote from a guy on ebay hope it works when I get it

Another thing to try it works on my 1996 I dropped my remote and broke it and then started having the same problem, but mine was only when I locked the doors, and used the key to unlock it, thsn sometime it would not start, I called the Chevy house and was told to roll the drivers window down, remove the keys from the switch, lock the car, stay out of it for 3 minutes, then reach in the window unlock the door and it would start this has worked for me for a couple of months now, I just bought a remote from a guy on ebay hope it works when I get it

You'll have to get the remote matched to the car....they have many different freqs.

You'll have to get the remote matched to the car....they have many different freqs.
Thanks I have a txt file about how to program it, I am going to try that but I did not pay but $4.99 for it so no big deal if it does not work

Something like that is happening to my 98 lumina. One morning I unlock the car with the remote and when I tried to start it it did not work. It seemed like it was dead. After trying several times I got it working. Once I turned it off I locked it and then unlocked it with the remote and once again I was not able to start the engine. Then, by accident I figure out that if I did not lock it using the remote, it would start like always. However, I am uncertain on what the problem is ...

Something like that is happening to my 98 lumina. One morning I unlock the car with the remote and when I tried to start it it did not work. It seemed like it was dead. After trying several times I got it working. Once I turned it off I locked it and then unlocked it with the remote and once again I was not able to start the engine. Then, by accident I figure out that if I did not lock it using the remote, it would start like always. However, I am uncertain on what the problem is ...

sounds like the relay in the security system that disables the starter is getting stuck when you use the remote (which arms the system)

I do not know. Sometimes this car drives me nuts. When it does not start, it is lke if it did not have any electrical curent at all. Other times, the fuel pump makes intermitent noises.

Sometimes, when I try to turn the engine nothing happens at all. It is like there was no power at all in the ignition system. After that, the alarm is activated and it goes crazy. That is why I figured out that this was a problem related to the alarm system.

Well I tried all of the suggested ways to get my 1999 Lumina and the only way I got it running was with the screwdriver on starter. Could someone point me in the right direction on any other ways to get my car running? Thanks in advance (there is no power coming to the starter on the small wire to the solide ) purple wire

could be your starter kill relay for the VATS system, or could be a faulty ignition module. Check all your ignition fuses.

No offence, but what does the miles of the car have to do with the Chip?

What he is referring to is that on the ignition key on some of the Lumina's there is a black "chip". Electronic chip. When you insert the key not only do the tumblers have to line up for the key to turn but the "programing" on the chip has to match whats inside the sterrring column.



That "chip" is nothing more than a resistor pellet. There are 15 different resistances used by this GM VATS system to combine with about 10,000 different key pinning combinations to make a thief's job that much harder. There is nothing in the column-mounted lock cylinder but a pair of leaf contacts to connect to the resistor pellet on the key. The wires from this run down the column to the BCM.

Try cleaning the leaf contacts in the lock cylinder with a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol. Make sure the ignition key is clean. AVOID any type of spray lubricant in lock cylinders, since these only tend to gum up and insulate the contact leaves. Lock sylinders should ONLY be lubricated with powdered graphite - That goes for the door and deck lid locks, too.

Beyond cleaning the key and contacts, you can check the connector at the base of the steering column, or start diagnosing the VATS using the factory troubleshooting procedure.

I want to thank Tb lake and blue bowtie With your help the car now starts . It was in the ignition switch where the problem was . Again thanks for the information, because without it I was giving up.:grinyes:

I would start by disconnecting and removing the aftermarket alarm/remote start unit. They rarely get along with OEM security systems, and can cause all sorts of issues. Most use a spare key plugged into a module to fool the BCM into thinking the right key is inserted so it will start. If the chip/transistor in that key is bad/dirty/missing, it will cause the alarm/remote start to go stupid.

AMEN to that, richtazz!

Aftermarket alarms, remote start and lock systems are made to SELL, not to be installed on vehicles. Sometimes, the hardware is just fine, but the "professional" installations leave a lot to be desired - Butt spliced crimp connections, no solder anywere, no fusing or protection, incorrect wire colors, poor insulation and wire protection techniques, lazy wire routing, etcetera.

Some of them are junk no matter how careful and meticulous the installer might be.

well, my remote starter works 100%. I had it installed professionally, and the hardware was carefully researched, and by no means was cheap. I can start my car from a quarter mile away, and thats the cheaper of the 4 models. LOL. I have also installed a bunch alreadt, 2 were cheap ones, and one was the same model i have. Guess which one didn't start causing problems within a month.....

My opinion on A/M remote starts, if it comes with a DIY installation video, you might as well start :banghead: now, as it will make you :screwy: in the near future. :cwm27:

yeah, both of the shitty ones i put in came with the DIY manual. I didnt follow them, sometimes i dont think those people know what they are talking about either. "Find the purple starter soloniod wire, cut it and attempt to start your car with a key. If it doesnt crank, crimp them backtogether along with the blue wire from the remote start unit". ITS CALLED A MULTIMETER!!!!!!!!!! But yeah, ne shitty one was a boa made by dei that came from target, and the other was a shitty bulldog that came from wall-mart. Mine is an ultra-start made by AST, i had to order off the net. It had everything needed, minus the DIY guide. The best part was lock and unlock and trunk are all on one remote along with start and it looks just like my factory remote key fobs. Gotta love it.

excellent, sounds like a nice unit, didn't know there was such a thing.

www.ultrastarters.com, i have the 1250

i guess the dont make the 1250 anymore, the 1270 is the closest to it. Looks to be the same. I got mine for 80 from a different site shipped to me.