Compressor clutch replacement instructions
tomlcollins
04-24-2006, 10:10 AM
Very sorry, but couldn't take pictures b/c the girlfriend didn't want me getting the camera all dirty. Believe me, it's not a hard process and I will explain it in detail. I used the loan a tool program from Autozone to get the tools I needed. I have a PDF file of the service manual instructions but for some reason I can’t attach files. I can send them to anyone who needs them.
Estimated time to complete: 2-2.5 hours
Step 1: Getting to the clutch
Remove the upper part of the fan shroud. Loosen the bolts on the fan pulley before removing the serpentine belt. Finally, remove fan and fan pulley. This is all you need to remove to get to the compressor, you will have plenty of room to work from above.
Step 2: Drive plate removal
I spent two afternoons half-heartedly attempting this but kept getting stuck at the drive plate, which proved to be the only tough part of the repair. Saturday morning I got serious and I ended up getting the drive plate off via the use of a harmonic balancer puller (from Autozone), three 2 inch 5 mm bolts with flat body panel washers, and a hex key that I cut in half with a Dremel.
First you must remove the bolt holding in on (10 mm). It helps to use an a/c clutch holder (from Autozone) to keep the drive plate from moving but you can use a screwdriver if need be.
Here’s the deal with the drive plate removal: There is a bolt holding on the drive plate but it’s also pressed on to a spline on the compressor shaft, so you must pull it off somehow. I decided that a harmonic balancer puller was the way to go. THE MAIN GOAL HERE IS TO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS INSIDE THE SHAFT WHILE PULLING THE DRIVE PLATE OFF! I initially tried using the original bolt to press against without threading it in all the way, but all it did was turn. I was scared to use a longer bolt bottomed out on the compressor shaft because I didn’t want to strip the threads. After trying several alternatives, I found that the only thing that was strong enough and skinny enough to fit inside the compressor shaft and press against without ruining the threads was a hex key. I cut one in half (not sure what size it was, sorry…it was slightly smaller than the threads on the 10 mm bolt) and pressed against it. Voila, the drive plate came right off. Note how many shims (flat washers) there are on the compressor shaft.
Step 3: Pulley removal
First you must remove the snap ring. Try to note how much clearance there is between the snap ring and the pulley (if there is any), simply because you want to get it as close as possible to where it was when you put the new pulley back on.
Next use a pulley puller (also from Autozone) to get the pulley off. This is pretty straightforward.
Step 4: Field coil removal.
Remove the three screws and it comes off, basically. The wire is held on with a screw that I found impossible to remove, so I just cut the wire in half and removed it. The connector was sort of tough, the bottom part is supposed to push up and you pull it out. I used a small hooked pick to get it apart.
Step 5: Field coil installation
Put the new one on just as you took the old one off, there is a tab on the back to line it up. Put in the three screws and be sure to route the wire away from moving parts!
Step 6: Pulley install
Use a 36 mm axle nut socket (from Autozone) to drive the pulley on, making sure to drive it on evenly!!!! Don’t drive it too far! This is the only part of the install where you must use your own discretion as to how far to drive it on. I drove it just past the snap ring, and my a/c works so I guess it was right! Install the snap ring.
Step 7: Drive plate install
DON’T FORGET THE SHIM(S)! I used the original one and one thinner shim because I pressed on the pulley a tad bit further than it was originally. I didn’t personally test clearance with a dial gauge as the manual recommends. It looks tough to test with the compressor on the car.
Step 8: Buckle it up
Reinstall belt, fan and pulley, and shroud. I recommend having someone else turn on the A/C while you watch the compressor just for good measure. I didn’t like how mine reacted on the first attempt, so I ended up having to take it back apart and pop off the drive plate again to install an extra shim (ended up with two flat washers instead of the one that was originally on there). Like I said, if I tested the clearance this probably wouldn’t have been a problem. My clutch functions fine.
NOTE: I REMOVED MY CLUTCH B/C MY COMPRESSOR IS BUZZING HORRIBLY AT IDLE, AND I THOUGHT THIS WOULD FIX IT RATHER THAN PAY ~$900 FOR A NEW COMPRESSOR. THE A/C WORKED FINE BEFORE AND WORKS FINE NOW, BUT UNFORTUNATELY IT TURNS OUT IT WASN’T MY CLUTCH MAKING THE NOISE. I WASN’T ABOUT TO TAKE THE NEW ONE OFF AND PUT THE OLD ONE BACK ON….THEREFORE, I HAVE A FUNCTIONING COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OFF A 2002 3.2 L IF ANYONE NEEDS ONE. I WILL SELL FOR $75 + S/H AND WILL INCLUDE SERVICE MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS, THE HEX KEY NEEDED TO PRESS OFF THE DRIVE PLATE, AND THE BOLTS/WASHERS (COST ME $5) USED WITH THE HARMONIC BALANCE PULLER. ISUZU DOES NOT MAKE OR SELL THIS PART ANYMORE, AND WILL ONLY SELL YOU THE WHOLE COMPRESSOR!!!
THIS WILL GO ON EBAY IF NO ONE FROM THE FORUM WANTS IT, SO PLEASE LET ME KNOW ASAP IF YOU’RE INTERESTED!
You can reach me at [email protected]
Estimated time to complete: 2-2.5 hours
Step 1: Getting to the clutch
Remove the upper part of the fan shroud. Loosen the bolts on the fan pulley before removing the serpentine belt. Finally, remove fan and fan pulley. This is all you need to remove to get to the compressor, you will have plenty of room to work from above.
Step 2: Drive plate removal
I spent two afternoons half-heartedly attempting this but kept getting stuck at the drive plate, which proved to be the only tough part of the repair. Saturday morning I got serious and I ended up getting the drive plate off via the use of a harmonic balancer puller (from Autozone), three 2 inch 5 mm bolts with flat body panel washers, and a hex key that I cut in half with a Dremel.
First you must remove the bolt holding in on (10 mm). It helps to use an a/c clutch holder (from Autozone) to keep the drive plate from moving but you can use a screwdriver if need be.
Here’s the deal with the drive plate removal: There is a bolt holding on the drive plate but it’s also pressed on to a spline on the compressor shaft, so you must pull it off somehow. I decided that a harmonic balancer puller was the way to go. THE MAIN GOAL HERE IS TO NOT DAMAGE THE THREADS INSIDE THE SHAFT WHILE PULLING THE DRIVE PLATE OFF! I initially tried using the original bolt to press against without threading it in all the way, but all it did was turn. I was scared to use a longer bolt bottomed out on the compressor shaft because I didn’t want to strip the threads. After trying several alternatives, I found that the only thing that was strong enough and skinny enough to fit inside the compressor shaft and press against without ruining the threads was a hex key. I cut one in half (not sure what size it was, sorry…it was slightly smaller than the threads on the 10 mm bolt) and pressed against it. Voila, the drive plate came right off. Note how many shims (flat washers) there are on the compressor shaft.
Step 3: Pulley removal
First you must remove the snap ring. Try to note how much clearance there is between the snap ring and the pulley (if there is any), simply because you want to get it as close as possible to where it was when you put the new pulley back on.
Next use a pulley puller (also from Autozone) to get the pulley off. This is pretty straightforward.
Step 4: Field coil removal.
Remove the three screws and it comes off, basically. The wire is held on with a screw that I found impossible to remove, so I just cut the wire in half and removed it. The connector was sort of tough, the bottom part is supposed to push up and you pull it out. I used a small hooked pick to get it apart.
Step 5: Field coil installation
Put the new one on just as you took the old one off, there is a tab on the back to line it up. Put in the three screws and be sure to route the wire away from moving parts!
Step 6: Pulley install
Use a 36 mm axle nut socket (from Autozone) to drive the pulley on, making sure to drive it on evenly!!!! Don’t drive it too far! This is the only part of the install where you must use your own discretion as to how far to drive it on. I drove it just past the snap ring, and my a/c works so I guess it was right! Install the snap ring.
Step 7: Drive plate install
DON’T FORGET THE SHIM(S)! I used the original one and one thinner shim because I pressed on the pulley a tad bit further than it was originally. I didn’t personally test clearance with a dial gauge as the manual recommends. It looks tough to test with the compressor on the car.
Step 8: Buckle it up
Reinstall belt, fan and pulley, and shroud. I recommend having someone else turn on the A/C while you watch the compressor just for good measure. I didn’t like how mine reacted on the first attempt, so I ended up having to take it back apart and pop off the drive plate again to install an extra shim (ended up with two flat washers instead of the one that was originally on there). Like I said, if I tested the clearance this probably wouldn’t have been a problem. My clutch functions fine.
NOTE: I REMOVED MY CLUTCH B/C MY COMPRESSOR IS BUZZING HORRIBLY AT IDLE, AND I THOUGHT THIS WOULD FIX IT RATHER THAN PAY ~$900 FOR A NEW COMPRESSOR. THE A/C WORKED FINE BEFORE AND WORKS FINE NOW, BUT UNFORTUNATELY IT TURNS OUT IT WASN’T MY CLUTCH MAKING THE NOISE. I WASN’T ABOUT TO TAKE THE NEW ONE OFF AND PUT THE OLD ONE BACK ON….THEREFORE, I HAVE A FUNCTIONING COMPRESSOR CLUTCH OFF A 2002 3.2 L IF ANYONE NEEDS ONE. I WILL SELL FOR $75 + S/H AND WILL INCLUDE SERVICE MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS, THE HEX KEY NEEDED TO PRESS OFF THE DRIVE PLATE, AND THE BOLTS/WASHERS (COST ME $5) USED WITH THE HARMONIC BALANCE PULLER. ISUZU DOES NOT MAKE OR SELL THIS PART ANYMORE, AND WILL ONLY SELL YOU THE WHOLE COMPRESSOR!!!
THIS WILL GO ON EBAY IF NO ONE FROM THE FORUM WANTS IT, SO PLEASE LET ME KNOW ASAP IF YOU’RE INTERESTED!
You can reach me at [email protected]
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